Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 03:07 PM
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I may get the HD131Xe next week. It has the same throw as the HD3300 so I can just make it fit. Seems it's similar to the HD25, it's the dynamic black feature that's giving it the better blacks for HT viewing.

Watch this link
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post #272 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butie120 View Post

Jeez, how in the world is someone supposed to pick a projector at the end of the day? There's so many tradeoffs with all of em. ...

Lol, you're making it sound like work!! smile.gif Just pick a store with a good return policy, choose a PJ, then go for it.

I surprised myself by picking the 131. Given that it is so new, I didn't want to be a guinea pig, but the pre-sale price was too good, plus the 131 looks better to me than the 1070 or comparable Acer projectors, and finally, I've had good experience with Optoma. These factors led me to buy the 131, and so far, so good.
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post #273 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 03:18 PM
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Didn't comment on the "dynamic black" feature yet but I will now.

For me the sense of depth that the optima has over the benq is there even without the dynamic black level option being enabled. That option DOES work--I've turned it on and off multiple times to test it. It's a subtle difference, but it is there.

However enabling that option ramps the fan speed up considerably, for some reason, and the optima is loud enough as it is. Maybe it isn't so apparent while watching a movie with the sound up (I've just been checking picture quality with no sound) but with the sound off or low, believe me--it is very noticable.
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post #274 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post

Didn't comment on the "dynamic black" feature yet but I will now.

For me the sense of depth that the optima has over the benq is there even without the dynamic black level option being enabled. That option DOES work--I've turned it on and off multiple times to test it. It's a subtle difference, but it is there.

However enabling that option ramps the fan speed up considerably, for some reason, and the optima is loud enough as it is. Maybe it isn't so apparent while watching a movie with the sound up (I've just been checking picture quality with no sound) but with the sound off or low, believe me--it is very noticable.

I've had dynamic contrast turned on since day 1, but I turned it off yesterday and noticed it runs considerably quieter. As you said, the image difference is subtle with DC turned on, so I'm leaving it off. Although I will say that even with DC turned on, the PJ is not loud to me. With any kind of sound on, I can't hear the 131.
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post #275 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post

Lol, you're making it sound like work!! smile.gif Just pick a store with a good return policy, choose a PJ, then go for it.

I surprised myself by picking the 131. Given that it is so new, I didn't want to be a guinea pig, but the pre-sale price was too good, plus the 131 looks better to me than the 1070 or comparable Acer projectors, and finally, I've had good experience with Optoma. These factors led me to buy the 131, and so far, so good.

The problem is that Best Buy doesn't carry Optoma projectors in their store. It certainly doesn't carry the 131xe on their online store as well. Are there other stores I should consider where they would carry the Optomas? I don't want to do Amazon because I believe there is a restocking fee or something.
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post #276 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 03:48 PM
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Dynamic black making the fan go louder. Seems it's kicking in bright mode or a Ai lamp feature. See if after you turn on DB if you can turn the lamp down to econo or find a Ai feature to turn off.

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post #277 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Amazon has one of the best return policies. When I RMA'ed the W1070, they gave me a shipping label to return it at no cost to me.
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post #278 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Give your impressions of mosquito/image noise. Look for scenes with the sky in the background. Also, image tearing/pixel shimmering. Look for scenes with camera pans.

Also, I am using these settings as a starting reference for the HD131Xe and used these settings for the W1070. I adjusted to my preference from there and will do a full calibration of the HD131Xe once I am completely set up.
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post #279 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 05:16 PM
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The manual shows it has a CMS system but the grayscale tuning allows for just tuning the gains. Here they call it whites with adjustments of Red, Blue, Green.

These lately have been able to produce a good grayscale at D65k. Without equipment just bring up the pludge pattern like DVE's brightness pattern or DVE's contrast pattern. Look for color tints in the mid grays to white. Delete the tints or bias tones with the RGB sliders. You see red or pink bias just lower the red slider till tone is steely gray, note the number it took to get there and cut it in half and inturn increase the other two colors by the half amount for balance. Procedure is the same for any color bias.

You could be lucky and the gray patterns look great OTB. I'd use the medium color temp.

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post #280 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

Amazon has one of the best return policies. When I RMA'ed the W1070, they gave me a shipping label to return it at no cost to me.

RMA'ed? Not sure what that means. So, I could buy two projectors off Amazon, demo them both, and then return the one I don't want without it costing me anything?
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post #281 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Not exactly. That statement speaks for itself. Read Amazon's return policy so you can be confident with the money you will be putting on the line. Don't take anyone's word for it.

RMA is Return Materials Authorization.
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post #282 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

I may get the HD131Xe next week. It has the same throw as the HD3300 so I can just make it fit. Seems it's similar to the HD25, it's the dynamic black feature that's giving it the better blacks for HT viewing.

Watch this link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe-MNFW5PNk

Any chance I can talk you into stepping up to the HD25e? Here is what I am selling, I too am in the Bay Area and would travel to you with the HD131Xe and we can do a comparison of the two. I trust you have all the calibration tools and image measuring devices so that we can iron out actual differences between the HD25e and the HD131Xe. What do you think?
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post #283 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 08:19 PM
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I found out the HD25 and the HD131Xe are just about the same machine. I see the watts of the lamps are 240watt for the HD25's while the 131 has a lower 190watt lamp. Lower would be better for blacks and 2D viewing. If I get the projector I could measure the light output first off. Yeah I have high end calibrating tools in the colorfacts system and two different light meters. See what happens next week. I may be able to get the service code in there we should find grayscale tuning of the high and low end of the scale.

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post #284 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Agreed. The "e" suffix seems to me must stand for efficiency for the lower bulb costs less and lower power draw. All the other components are the likely the same between last years HD25 and this years HD25e/HD131Xe save for the lamp drive; the differences between the HD25e and HD131Xe I think to be firmware. But that is what I am curious to know.

Keep me posted. Thanks!
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post #285 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

I may be able to get the service code in there we should find grayscale tuning of the high and low end of the scale.

You think they're there, but Optima just decided to hide them? Why would they do that? Actually, come to think of it, it fits with the consumer-unfriendly nature of this projector.
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post #286 of 2780 Old 09-20-2013, 10:30 PM
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They will be there. I've tested/had a slew of Optoma's and in the sub service area they all had a sub level RGB bias and gain control. But they might not be needed if the user gain control locks in a flat D65k. We'll see

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post #287 of 2780 Old 09-21-2013, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

Without equipment just bring up the pludge pattern like DVE's brightness pattern or DVE's contrast pattern. Look for color tints in the mid grays to white. Delete the tints or bias tones with the RGB sliders. You see red or pink bias just lower the red slider till tone is steely gray, note the number it took to get there and cut it in half and inturn increase the other two colors by the half amount for balance. Procedure is the same for any color bias.

You could be lucky and the gray patterns look great OTB. I'd use the medium color temp.

Thanks for this, I'll give it a shot this weekend.
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post #288 of 2780 Old 09-21-2013, 01:07 PM
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It's the best was to see if the grayscale is ok. I've received projectors where it was obvious the grayscale was way off. Nasty green bias or pinkish red, blue sometimes. Using call it eyeball a correct grayscale you can fix it up right before your eyes.

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post #289 of 2780 Old 09-21-2013, 01:19 PM
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My optima has a slight bias toward red while my BenQ has a bias toward green. I didn't really notice until I started switching between them then it becomes very, very apparent.
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post #290 of 2780 Old 09-21-2013, 02:05 PM
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I have to crank up Brilliant Color to 5 or 6 during football games because otherwise the field is a dull green. I guess this means my PJ is green-deficient.
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post #291 of 2780 Old 09-21-2013, 05:26 PM
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Find a graystep pattern and fix it up. The THX optimizer on Lucas films like Star wars has one the brightness pattern.

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post #292 of 2780 Old 09-22-2013, 09:27 AM
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I'm pretty much set to upgrade my HD65 (still kicking) with HD131Xe or HD25e... it should give me 1080P and 3D... with a little bit better blacks/contrast :-)

I have stupid question, if I get my PJ with Optoma emitter will it work with ESTAR ESG600 glasses? Is there a limit on how many glasses will emitter handle?
I don't know if I should order glasses with an extra emitter for $10 in case if Optoma's emitter breaks (not sure if it can happen)...

Also how many 3D glasses do you have? I'm thinking about getting 4 pairs to cover my family... but what if my kids friends or family/friends come to visit... maybe 6 pairs would be good enough LOL....

Please advise...
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post #293 of 2780 Old 09-22-2013, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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The Estar emitter works with the Optoma glasses, and vice or versa. It's likely that Optoma has farmed out manufacturing of their branded 3D glasses to Estar (common practice). Everyone that owns both says they are exactly the same. If there is a limit to how many glasses you can pair with the emitter, no one has reached that limit yet. Here is a thread where some members have done those comparisons.

I am hoping for at least 6 pairs once I get fully set up.
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post #294 of 2780 Old 09-22-2013, 12:41 PM
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You don't have to pair the glasses to the emitter unless there's another emitter nearby causing interference.
Therefore no limit to the number of glasses.

td
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post #295 of 2780 Old 09-22-2013, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post

I have to crank up Brilliant Color to 5 or 6 during football games because otherwise the field is a dull green. I guess this means my PJ is green-deficient.
I run mine at BC 6 all the time with input from a Lumagen Mini processor.
I have measured my HD25LV and the color gamut is way less than the standard gamut triangle, especially green and blue. I'd like to hear from someone else that has measured these low end projectors. My HD33 has a good gamut range.
I asked Optoma about it. I don't think they know anything about calibration or gamut. If they come up with a fix for the lamp hours resetting to zero when you do a menu reset I will send it back and ask for it to be tested for color range.

td
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post #296 of 2780 Old 09-22-2013, 03:14 PM
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Thanks guys...
Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

The Estar emitter works with the Optoma glasses, and vice or versa. It's likely that Optoma has farmed out manufacturing of their branded 3D glasses to Estar (common practice). Everyone that owns both says they are exactly the same. If there is a limit to how many glasses you can pair with the emitter, no one has reached that limit yet. Here is a thread where some members have done those comparisons.

I am hoping for at least 6 pairs once I get fully set up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsondave View Post

You don't have to pair the glasses to the emitter unless there's another emitter nearby causing interference.
Therefore no limit to the number of glasses.

td
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post #297 of 2780 Old 09-22-2013, 06:27 PM
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Up to 209 hours on the bulb, so far it is far exceeding my expectations. The one thing i was worried about was how it would look with a lot of ambient light, and even during the day with light seeping through the shades on a variety of windows/light blue walls and a white ceiling and the picture still looks great, (obviously not as good as when it is playing at night, but my wife is the only one who uses the projector during the day and she is totally fine with it.)

Sound wise i cant really hear it even with it hanging 5 feet above my head, the fridge/ac other appliances in other rooms of the house are easier to hear than the projector.

As for 3d i have been using a pair of DLP link glasses i used with my old DLP tv, the sync is great, 3d looks good and the only thing i can complain about is how my wife prefers to watch movies in 2d, 8')

I've also been using it as a HTPC and i can see what people have mentioned with the focus not being even across the entire screen, but it is only noticable if you have small text covering the entire screen, and honestly it isn't bad enough to bother me.

All in all Its fun blowing peoples minds when they come over to watch something!

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post #298 of 2780 Old 09-22-2013, 08:24 PM
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How is the brightness in 3D?
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post #299 of 2780 Old 09-23-2013, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
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As for 3d i have been using a pair of DLP link glasses i used with my old DLP tv, the sync is great, 3d looks good...

That's interesting. I have two questions. 1) What brand of DLP link glasses do you have? 2) If you are watching 3D Blu rays, are you using a dedicated player or a PC for playback?

My understanding is that if the playback device is a 3D Blu ray player then the display refresh rate used by the projector is 144hz (for smoother motion), so your glasses must sync to 144hz. I didn't think any of the older DLP Link glasses could sync to 144hz.

I suspect but am not sure that glasses limited to 120hz sync can work if the playback device is a PC set to 120hz display (requiring 2:3 pulldown of film sources and therefore introducing motion judder), or possibly a refresh rate of 96hz to avoid motion judder.

I'm speculating about the latter since I don't know if there is a refresh rate of 96hz (24 frames displayed four times per second, or for 3D, 48 left-eye right-eye frames displayed twice per second) to avoid judder and to reduce flicker. I've always simply assumed that 24fps playback doesn't mean that the refresh rate is limited to 24hz (or 48hz for 3D).

I am seriously thinking about purchasing the LV version of this projector for the sake of greater brightness in 3D, but I'd feel much more comfortable with this decision if I knew that my old DLP Link glasses (Optoma ZD101s) and those of a fellow 3D pal (who often brings over a half-dozen old True Depth glasses) would work on my home theater PC.

If I go with this projector, I'll probably buy a couple of EStar RF glasses since the word is that RF is better than DLP Link in terms of sync and contrast. Still, I'd want the DLP Links for those occasions where my room is full of guests who actually want to see a 3D movie.

I am also very interested in any comments about brightness. I'm coming from an HD66 and look forward to 1080P 3D.
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post #300 of 2780 Old 09-23-2013, 07:19 AM
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The 3D glasses y'all are talking about ... do they fit over eyeglasses? I wear eyeglasses all the time so would need 3D glasses that would comfortably fit over them.
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