Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 2847 Old 10-07-2013, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by RogerRoger View Post


Width of the room is OK to accommodate the larger screen....being 14 ' wide. Im also OK with height as my ceiling is 8.7 ' high.

My main concern is that I will be too close to the screen if its 96 " wide...... whats the rule of thumb...viewing distance of at least 1.50x the width of the screen?

ahh, I misread the room - thought you were projecting the other way...

My front row is 1.2-1.3 (based on screen width, not diagonal). That's where we sit (family of 3), but I have a second row (that guests often prefer). If you might have people on the floor and do not have a second row, you probably should consider keeping the screen smaller.
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post #452 of 2847 Old 10-07-2013, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post

ahh, I misread the room - thought you were projecting the other way...

My front row is 1.2-1.3 (based on screen width, not diagonal). That's where we sit (family of 3), but I have a second row (that guests often prefer). If you might have people on the floor and do not have a second row, you probably should consider keeping the screen smaller.

That is exactly what I was thinking. If there are people on the floor, on bean bags, or extra seats to the side (and just infront) of the couch, then I may be better off with the 92".

Thanks!
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post #453 of 2847 Old 10-07-2013, 11:29 AM
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Compared to my Planar PD7150 (720P), the Optoma gets the nod, by a large margin.

No, the Optoma is not perfect (nor was the Planar even with it's $6K inflated MSRP, but these are $600-800 ish projectors!), I have slight focus issues with the upper left and lower right corners - but only noticeable using test patterns. Finding the middle ground focus point makes it a non issue. I don't do text, and am too old to play games and wouldn't on a DLP - yes rainbows can be seen if trained to do so. My front row is close @1.2, which can make things worse. However, I don't see them during normal viewing.
My screen is the limiting factor with the Optoma, as I can now easily see the texture of the sherweave 4500 material....the spandex screen should fix that (a week or two away).
The Optoma is much quieter than the 7150, and is a complete light cannon. My HT has black carpet, black recliners, grey fabric walls and a dark ceiling- the amount of reflected light during bright scenes is stunning from this little projector (very glad I have a dark non -reflective room!), I can now run the projector with some room lighting for more social events (football!). - on econo mode I can see things behind my screen not previously visible (going to have to work on that). There is some light leakage on the ceiling, more than the 7150 (that had next to none), but in my setup none of the light reaches or effects the image (dark ceiling, fabric covered soffit).

Image noise: the Planar 7150 had noise, and apparently lots of it, as I nee none with the Optoma - Blu-ray, OTA HD Tivo, as well as a dedicated OTA tuner, and old school HDDVD (as previously mentioned, my screen is limiting the ability to see this). I do not have the ability to do 3D yet.
The AVSHD test patten for contrast will only allow the required white bars to be visible with the Optoma. To me it appears to be digitally limited. The planar will show all the white bars (contrast) without washing out any color - but I'm not sure how much that contributes to the overall PQ. I reset all the colors from the factory settings (resetting made the colors all 0's), and will try some of the calibrated numbers for fun. Out of the box, the Planar has much better skin tones - going to have to work a bit to get the Optoma where it needs to be.

It's a keeper for me. Now I need a new BR player and some glasses!

Wow, so the overall picture quality is much better than the PD7150? I was thinking that the PD7150 would have a better picture due to better optics. Which has better black level, constrast, and sharpness?
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post #454 of 2847 Old 10-07-2013, 01:08 PM
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Wow, so the overall picture quality is much better than the PD7150? I was thinking that the PD7150 would have a better picture due to better optics. Which has better black level, constrast, and sharpness?

The Optoma was small enough to sit inverted on the top of the Planar (with a makeshift clamp/plywood) - and the offset/focus was perfect for my screen. After a couple hours of the Optoma, I never even compared in a a/b fashion...just started removing the Planar and getting the Optoma installed....so with that said...

Sharpness...this is easy 720 vs 1080 no contest, Optoma. The added detail I was missing was an eye opener... comparing sharpness on a pixel level, I suspect the Planar 'might' win - but the Optoma can display almost 2x more pixels.

Contrast wins with the Optoma as well, but not as much as the numbers would suggest. I'd give black level the nod for the Planar.

Out of box colors were way off on my Optoma (factory default) vs. the Planar that looked almost pre-calibrated. Once dialed in the Optoma is fantastic. Taking the picture as a whole, the Optoma continues to impress.

One caveat, my PD7150 had a slightly brighter black level on the right side of the screen as well as the ability to get things perfectly square. Probably had something wrong with it, but at $600 it was livable (or zero $ after the bulb warranty paid for the cost of the PJ due to the inability to find a bulb - even after I told them of the cage less version). One more thing, the mount for the heavy and large PP7150 was bolted into a joist that 'short circuited' my 'room within a room' ceiling - I have the new mount only into sheet rock. No more bounce in the image from people 'dancing' above the PJ!. This in not an unbiased decision!

Just bought some glasses and a new BR player - I was resisting the 3d thing as a gimmick eek.gif should add a new level of 'fun' to the HT. Oh yeah, sunday football with lights ON was great - revitalizing the HT.
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post #455 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 04:12 AM
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Amazon selling again: http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD131Xe-3D-Home-Theater-Projector/dp/B00E4JEDWE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381230351&sr=8-1&keywords=131xe

As for screen size, we watched our last (1080p Sanyo Z2000) on a 100" diagonal from ~12' away (1.65x screen 87" width) and will be going with a 120" from ~12' away on our new set-up (1.37x 105" width).
Go big, or go LCD smile.gif
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post #456 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 06:54 AM
 
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I received two pair of the True Depth Firestorm LT glasses from Amazon yesterday to test the HD131xe. They are 144hz and worked fine. They are very light and made to fit easily over glasses, but have an awkward nose clip that pushes the glasses away from your face. Saw slight ghosting--especially when a turning my head slightly, so they need to be dead on to see the best image. They seem to pass more light through than older glasses, but also don't have the dark blacks--it could be bleed through of the white sync flash. I had to readjust the contrast and brightness to get good blacks. This might just be my lack of experience with the unit, though.

If you've read my previous posts, you know that I have a HD3300 and comparing the two--problem is I can only have one mounted at a time, so I didn't get a chance to directly compare the HD3300 yesterday. That said, the 3D was good, but the image wasn't as good as the HD3300 as I remember it. Maybe because the HD3300 has pure motion to decrease the judder, and the HD131xe does not. I would definitely not dump a good HD33 or HD3300 to get the HD131xe, thinking that it's newer and better technology on the cheap. I think the HD131xe is a great step up from a high-end 720p to a low end 1080p, but not an older high-end 1080p to a newer technology low-end 1080p.
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post #457 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 07:02 AM
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TVSTAR:
Assume these are the glasses you're referring to @ $60 for 2 pair:
http://www.amazon.com/True-Depth-Lightweight-Rechargeable-3D/dp/B00EJOCTOS

So these do not require any transmitter or anything else to work with the 131Xe?


The alternative is to get a RF transmitter and RF glasses, like the eStar "starter kit" for $60
http://www.amazon.com/EStar-America-ESG6100-RF-3D-Starter/dp/B00D39AUCI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381240761&sr=1-1&keywords=estar+3d+glasses

Then each additional pair of glasses is $55
http://www.amazon.com/EStar-America-ESG6000-RF-3D-Glasses/dp/B00D341DUQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381240763&sr=1-3&keywords=estar+3d+glasses

From reading posts here, seems like an RF system has the advantage with a better "connection" as well as less "juddery" moving images. Is that fair to say?

Anyone else have links to other alternatives?
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post #458 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 07:25 AM
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I'm giving the 3dtv Corp new style a try, 144hz, 32grams, battery protection function built in (don't know how often they will get used) - $92 delivered for 4 pairs from the manufacturer (via ebay). The specs say 1200:1 contrast and no flicker - probably marketing (but hoping it's a SW update) as these lower priced models seem to be the same - I'd guess from the same factory in China.



Ebay Link (I made an offer reducing the price by 1/2 the shipping cost - order shipped within hours of the transaction)

It's my understanding that this PJ uses a white flash for the DLP link (all you need are glasses, no emitter)...some indicate that this has limitations and can degrade the PQ due to the image flash that signals the glasses - in my case I have a non reflective room (fabric walls and lots of dark colors) - I see many of these lower priced PJ's in a room that is far from ideal (white rooms, windows, etc.), so I'm hopeful that my room will limit this.
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post #459 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 07:53 AM
 
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TVSTAR:
Assume these are the glasses you're referring to @ $60 for 2 pair:
http://www.amazon.com/True-Depth-Lightweight-Rechargeable-3D/dp/B00EJOCTOS

So these do not require any transmitter or anything else to work with the 131Xe?

No, all DLPlink glasses have a sensor builtin. The True Depth glasses have a wide plastic piece over the sensor to extend it's range, and that seems to work well. Another advantage of these is the quick ability to switch L/R sync by one click on the glasses. They weigh 28 grams, are 1000:1 contrast ratio and 36% light transmittance--for those of you comparing. I do not necessarily recommend them and am going to try some 3D TV glasses as well.

I note, there is a statement that the glasses should not be used in a room with fluorescent lights as they can confuse the glasses. That is definitely something to consider in rooms with more lighting, since many homes now use fluorescent lights these days. If you do, then I recommend you go RF.

By the way, I just looked on ebay, and they are the same as the Sainsonic for around $20, so that's about the cheapest you can find them, and for that price, they are definitely good enough.
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post #460 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 07:58 AM
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Hopefully this link works but its for the glasses I bought.... two pair shipped for 21.00... these work with my Panasonic 210bdt 3d player outputting 1080@ 24hz.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/310732895764
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post #461 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 08:53 AM
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Hey guys, good to see that this thread is finally catching a lot of well-deserved attention. I have been using and enjoying the projector so much and am nearly at 650 hours burned in. I have it connected to my HTPC where I do a lot of gaming (currently FFXIV), and movie watching.

In terms of 3DGlasses, I've tried out just about the everything mentioned (both RF and DLPlink). Started off with the Optoma RFs + Emitters, but returned them due to the overly expensive pricing (it was about $130). For that price, I got a grab-bag of DLPLink glasses: 1 Sainsonic, 1 VIP 3D, 1 3DTVCorp (Blue ones like Two-Rocks linked), and 1 Estar America.
I dont really have anything bad to say about any of them, but I dont notice any huge improved contrast or brightness across the board. The 3DTV / VIP3D / Monoprice are all the same manufacturer called Hi-Shock, so its no surprise I can't really see a perceptable difference between them. The biggest inconvenience is that I now have different charging connectors for each glasses..... So for me, it all boils down to fit. I wear prescription glasses, so the Estar America / Optoma DLP Link and RF glasses won hands down. This is due to the fact that you can remove the nosepiece entirely. That lets them sit nearly right on top of my prescription glasses without it feeling like im wearing huge goggles on top of my glasses.

My Overall DLP and RF pick are the Estar Americas. They are THE SAME as the Optoma branded ones, except without the visible Optoma branded logo on the side of the glasses. Same charging connector, frames, even removable nosepieces. I A/Bd both sets extensively before returning my Optoma Branded Glasses + Optoma Emitter. I got the Estar DLPLinks for $29 on Amazon awhile back. The Estar RF bundle is priced well at $65 currently on Amazon

Estar DLPLinks: http://www.amazon.com/EStar-America-ESG601-Link-Glasses/dp/B00CRN3D98/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381248089&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Estar+America+dlplink

In terms of DLP vs RF, both looked great. I never noticed any flashes using DLPLink, maybe I just cant tell. I dont really have a habit of actively roaming around while watching a movie, so I guess the benefits of RF syncing dont really apply to my usage. if you want to enable Triple-flash on either of the technologies, you have to be using a 24Hz input source... meaning either a Bluray Player, or set your Refresh rate to 1920x1080x24Hz in your display driver control panel.

Still looking for calibrated 3D Settings to use as a baseline. For now I have just been using the factory presets with minor adjusting in 3D. IMO, the Brightness/Contrast hit is crazy in either DLP or RF modes. This is my first 3D Projector, so definitely wasn't expecting that much of a drop. Makes me wonder if I should have went with a HD25e or HD25-LV .... but the price premiums didnt seem worth it
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post #462 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 09:29 AM
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Firmware fun......eek.gif

I see references that the HD131xe and HD25e (and others) might be the same. So I submitted my SN from my HD131xe for the HD25e firmware, and presto - it downloaded. It didn't work fir the EH300, but I would not have used that anyway...

So I will be flashing the HD25e firmware is the next few minutes. What the he!!, I say smile.gif
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post #463 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 10:05 AM
 
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Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post

Firmware fun......eek.gif

I see references that the HD131xe and HD25e (and others) might be the same. So I submitted my SN from my HD131xe for the HD25e firmware, and presto - it downloaded. It didn't work fir the EH300, but I would not have used that anyway...

So I will be flashing the HD25e firmware is the next few minutes. What the he!!, I say smile.gif

Can't wait to hear what you think of it---good luck!
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post #464 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 10:29 AM
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Well, there you go - a black HD25e or a white HE131xe - I guess they are officially the same, except the price. The firmware update even retained all the settings.

I guess they took apples lead on marketing white plastic eek.gif

Might have to go peruse the HD25e thread for a while and see what is there....(edit, nothing as there seem to be no Official HD25e thread)
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post #465 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 10:44 AM
 
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Well, there you go - a black HD25e or a white HE131xe - I guess they are officially the same, except the price. The firmware update even retained all the settings.

I guess they took apples lead on marketing white plastic eek.gif

Might have to go peruse the HD25e thread for a while and see what is there....(edit, nothing as there seem to be no Official HD25e thread)

I think if you would go through the service menu, you'd find low level tweaks, OR, as we all know specs are typically an average of how all components operate together. Some projectors coming down a line will be on the bottom of just meeting the spec and others on top of the spec. Why not put the ones at the top in a white case and sell them for more, and the ones that meet the minimum of specs (ie. lumens, on/off contrast) in a black case selling for less. Or one has a better noise rejection chip than the other. Who knows, but they did it with the HD33 and HD3300 and said their were better components in the HD3300 and more tweaks available for installers in the service menu. My guess is after 100 hours of lamp use, you absolutely can't tell the difference as that is the main component that drives them all.
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post #466 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post

Well, there you go - a black HD25e or a white HE131xe - I guess they are officially the same, except the price. The firmware update even retained all the settings.

I guess they took apples lead on marketing white plastic eek.gif

Might have to go peruse the HD25e thread for a while and see what is there....(edit, nothing as there seem to be no Official HD25e thread)

Awesome I might flash my HD25e with HD131xe to lower lumens output... LOL
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post #467 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 11:12 AM
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I think if you would go through the service menu, you'd find low level tweaks, OR, as we all know specs are typically an average of how all components operate together. Some projectors coming down a line will be on the bottom of just meeting the spec and others on top of the spec. Why not put the ones at the top in a white case and sell them for more, and the ones that meet the minimum of specs (ie. lumens, on/off contrast) in a black case selling for less. Or one has a better noise rejection chip than the other. Who knows, but they did it with the HD33 and HD3300 and said their were better components in the HD3300 and more tweaks available for installers in the service menu. My guess is after 100 hours of lamp use, you absolutely can't tell the difference as that is the main component that drives them all.

Can you point me in a direction to get to the service menu?

The rest of your post is mostly internet lore (except the 33/3300 stuff - as I never followed that). I was an engineer in the electronics manufacturing industry for many years - both contract manufacturers and OEM's where i was the engineering liaison with the contract manufacturers. And I can tell you it just doesn't work that way, not saying it can't - just that it usually involves more effort than it's worth.

My guess is that the HD25e was not selling as well as hoped (benQ)- so marketing takes over, bolts on a black case, and lowers the price... while changing a few specs and a model number. I've seen and participated in this first hand, but never saw the method you spoke of.
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post #468 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 11:32 AM
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Dynamic black - I have it off, should it be used? I have only briefly turned it on and the PJ fan gets louder - never watched anything.
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post #469 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 11:37 AM
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Dynamic black - I have it off, should it be used? I have only briefly turned it on and the PJ fan gets louder - never watched anything.

it helps a tiny bit. I have it on low... depending on your setup, if the noise botthers you, turn it off...
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post #470 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 11:41 AM
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Dynamic black - I have it off, should it be used? I have only briefly turned it on and the PJ fan gets louder - never watched anything.

Good question. I stopped using dynamic black because I equate a louder fan with a less efficient and/or overworked projector. But I swear I read a post somewhere in this thread saying the 131Xe was "designed" to function most efficiently in eco mode with dynamic black set to high. Now I can't find that comment.
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post #471 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post

Firmware fun......eek.gif

I see references that the HD131xe and HD25e (and others) might be the same. So I submitted my SN from my HD131xe for the HD25e firmware, and presto - it downloaded. It didn't work fir the EH300, but I would not have used that anyway...

So I will be flashing the HD25e firmware is the next few minutes. What the he!!, I say smile.gif

Can you point me in the direction of where you submit serial and update procedure? Looked but haven't found it at Optoma. Or did you get it from the European site?
Thanks!
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post #472 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 11:52 AM
 
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Can you point me in a direction to get to the service menu?

The rest of your post is mostly internet lore (except the 33/3300 stuff - as I never followed that). I was an engineer in the electronics manufacturing industry for many years - both contract manufacturers and OEM's where i was the engineering liaison with the contract manufacturers. And I can tell you it just doesn't work that way, not saying it can't - just that it usually involves more effort than it's worth.

My guess is that the HD25e was not selling as well as hoped (benQ)- so marketing takes over, bolts on a black case, and lowers the price... while changing a few specs and a model number. I've seen and participated in this first hand, but never saw the method you spoke of.

I read this in a previous thread on this forum: Service menu: off-up-down-menu Beware! Dont use left or right while marker is on lamp hours. You will add/ remove 10 hours on lamp hours for each push on the button.

And yes, I know that marketing does influence a lot. However, there was a big discussion in the HD33/HD3300 at one time and many comments about how the components of the HD3300 had better specs and there were also some additional circuit options engineered in as well. But who knows. Like I've said, I can't see much difference between the HD131xe and the HD3300, other than the HD3300 has a more pristine image, and it's older DC2 chip technology vs. DC3, both have been around for years and the native contrast on these chips is low to begin with.
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post #473 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 11:54 AM
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Can you point me in the direction of where you submit serial and update procedure? Looked but haven't found it at Optoma. Or did you get it from the European site?
Thanks!

Here you go!

http://www.optomausa.com/support/firmwareupgrade.aspx
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post #474 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 11:57 AM
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wow awesome . Did you notice that the HD131XE w/ HD25e firmware is any brighter? I definitely would like the extra lumens in 3D mode
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post #475 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 12:11 PM
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Haven't tried this myself, but an extended service menu can be access using;

Press the {POWER} {LEFT} {LEFT} {MENU} buttons. I don't know if this is after accessing the basic service menu first or not.

http://factory-reset.com/wiki/Optoma_Service_Menu
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post #476 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 12:12 PM
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Thanks Ben!
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post #477 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by two-rocks View Post

Firmware fun......eek.gif

I see references that the HD131xe and HD25e (and others) might be the same. So I submitted my SN from my HD131xe for the HD25e firmware, and presto - it downloaded. It didn't work fir the EH300, but I would not have used that anyway...

So I will be flashing the HD25e firmware is the next few minutes. What the he!!, I say smile.gif
glad to see someone finally confirmed this. everytime I ( or others) mentioned it in different threads it seem to mainly go ignored
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post #478 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Miwo View Post

wow awesome . Did you notice that the HD131XE w/ HD25e firmware is any brighter? I definitely would like the extra lumens in 3D mode
optoma stated that the two projectors are the same brightness in 3d mode alreadyaccording to another poster who asked them
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post #479 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post

Good question. I stopped using dynamic black because I equate a louder fan with a less efficient and/or overworked projector. But I swear I read a post somewhere in this thread saying the 131Xe was "designed" to function most efficiently in eco mode with dynamic black set to high. Now I can't find that comment.
I mentioned something to that effect as Art from projector reviews stated the 6000 hr life was with dynamic black turned on not off.... He did not specify which brightness mode but logic would dictate on low brightness as dark scenes would be even lower power output than normal in low power mode.... if the brightness is too much its best to use low power mode with dynamic on high... the downside is if your picky enough to listen for it, its easier to hear and notice the fan speed pitch change....
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post #480 of 2847 Old 10-08-2013, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

optoma stated that the two projectors are the same brightness in 3d mode alreadyaccording to another poster who asked them

This is very interesting... makes me wonder if hd131xe would put out better 2D picture for my needs (light controlled basement). I find hd25e to be too bright in 2D.
Hmmm... I might try to put HD131xe firmware on my hd25e... LOL...
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Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

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Optoma Hd131xe Dlp Projector 3d
Gear in this thread - Hd131xe by PriceGrabber.com

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