Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:57 AM
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^---Edit: What he said... he beat me to it.


1. Yes, I have both the Optoma glasses and a pair of the Estar ones. Both seem to be 100% identical aside from no Optoma logo on the Estar glasses. You'll need a 3D source, the projector, an emitter(included in the Estar Kit) and the glasses(Note: Extra glasses don't need an extra emitter and single one can work with as many pairs of glasses as you need.)

2.No sure on that one.

3.You can use USB drive to update the firmware if I'm not mistaken.

 

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Old 10-24-2013, 12:42 PM
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Thanks to you both...... didnt see the usb port.... ill look again... and ill get those estars... i appreciate the help from both of you.....
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:58 PM
 
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Well, my Estar America ESG601 DLP LInk glasses just got here. I see that most people seem to prefer the RF emitter and glasses. I haven't received my PJ mount yet so I am still not ready for 3D time. Does anyone here use the DLP-Link feature? And specifically does anyone use these particular glasses? (In the Amazon reviews they were said to be the same glasses as the Optoma glasses w/o the Optoma name.)
Is the reason people go with the RF models because of a startup white flash I've seen written about?

Thoughts?
Thanks.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreationz View Post

^---Edit: What he said... he beat me to it.



1. Yes, I have both the Optoma glasses and a pair of the Estar ones. Both seem to be 100% identical aside from no Optoma logo on the Estar glasses. You'll need a 3D source, the projector, an emitter(included in the Estar Kit) and the glasses(Note: Extra glasses don't need an extra emitter and single one can work with as many pairs of glasses as you need.)


2.No sure on that one.


3.You can use USB drive to update the firmware if I'm not mistaken.


 
I'm also following another thread on another forum and a poster there claims the estar glasses are darker and have a green tint to them compared to optoma ones? have you noticed this?
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:44 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

Well, my Estar America ESG601 DLP LInk glasses just got here. I see that most people seem to prefer the RF emitter and glasses. I haven't received my PJ mount yet so I am still not ready for 3D time. Does anyone here use the DLP-Link feature? And specifically does anyone use these particular glasses? (In the Amazon reviews they were said to be the same glasses as the Optoma glasses w/o the Optoma name.)
Is the reason people go with the RF models because of a startup white flash I've seen written about?

Thoughts?
Thanks.

For those who are also looking into glasses for this PJ I'll post the link that led me to my ESG601s. If anyone else has any experience with these glasses I'd be happy to hear them. And the cost for two pair of the ESG601s "was" $10 less than the cost for the Estar America ESG6000 RF-3D (starter Kit: one pair of glasses with emiter). So it was a great deal "then". Now the ESG601s have gone up $10 each, but they are still a pretty good deal. (I am not sure about the policy for posting prices so I don't. But it is easy to check at Amazon.)

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1484644/optoma-hd131xe-hd-1080p-2500-ansi-lumens-3d-home-theater-projector-sub-800-new-budget-king/450#post_23814613
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:20 PM
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All, I just got my hd131xe yesterday and so far am loving it as a replacement for my "fan-error" dying Acer H5360. I tried settings posted earlier in this thread, and no disrepect to the poster (each projector is different after all), did not look great to me on colors. Reds were a bit orange for my projector/taste. I do not yet have a meter on it. Just by eye. Anyway, found the settings posted in the link below from a review elsewhere of the HD25 (not the "-e" version) but decided to give them a try. Looks much closer to great to me so far! http://www.avforums.com/forums/18792314-post1.html
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:19 PM
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Screenshots, anyone?

Tough to show each pixel with my little point and shoot cam, but it's pretty razor sharp in the middle and not far off towards the edges.

After watching my 131Xe on an almond painted, rather rough wall for the past 2 weeks this week I pulled the trigger on a 110" Elite fixed screen and put it up tonight.
Since moving into our new house 2 weeks ago I've been experimenting with various image sizes and most importantly which wall I wanted to project onto. Initial plan was a 120" Favi electric screen over the one window, but after receiving 1/2 of the sectional sofa (other half arrives this saturday) and watching TV on the big wall decided this was a better arrangement. Room depth is 16', width is 18'. Sofa seating is ~13' from screen.
Mount is a $24 VideoSecure that I've got dropped to it's max. Just clears the ceiling fan: http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Projector-Ceiling-Bracket-PJ2W/dp/B000IDC0K2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382670201&sr=8-2&keywords=projector+mount
Not a bad mount at all. My previous projector had a $150 Chief and this ain't one of those but it's relatively solid.

The screen looks great to me, took about 2 hours to assemble and hang on the wall:
http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-ER110WH1-Projection-Screen/dp/B00366TZ3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382670286&sr=8-2&keywords=elite+screen

131Xe setting in these shots is "reference", eco lamp mode, HD signal on an AT&T wireless HDR box. The only Blu-Ray I have right now is 1st season of Archer, will take a few more when I hit up redbox over the weekend.

Really, really happy with the 131 so far. Prior to this we watched an LCD Sanyo Z2000 (paid $1900 in 2006) on a 100" Favi electric that while not as bright, spit out a very pleasing picture. The 131 is somehow a little rougher around the edges (figuratively and literally - there is some macro-blocking of solid colors but I don't notice this all that frequently) but overall an amazing viewing experience for just a hair over $1000 for projector, screen and mount.

Not necessary but thinking about building a ~12" high "stage" covered with black carpet to raise up the mains and center speaker, and absorb some of the light bouncing onto the carpet in front of the screen. Should also do something with the white ceiling above the screen at least but the PJ is more than bright enough that this shouldn't bother me.
Will figure out some kind of directed lighting other than the ugly ceiling fan that will light up the seating area but not the screen.
Loving it!











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Old 10-24-2013, 11:58 PM
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Hey Kedelbach, thanks for the screenshots!

If you have the time could you take a picture of one of the soft corners when they have text on them? Everything else looks great to me otherwise!
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

I'm also following another thread on another forum and a poster there claims the estar glasses are darker and have a green tint to them compared to optoma ones? have you noticed this?
This whould supprice me if true .vip ,estar of america,monster vision,optoma rf glasses are made by. Bit. Cauldron
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mikemav View Post

All, I just got my hd131xe yesterday and so far am loving it as a replacement for my "fan-error" dying Acer H5360. I tried settings posted earlier in this thread, and no disrepect to the poster (each projector is different after all), did not look great to me on colors. Reds were a bit orange for my projector/taste. I do not yet have a meter on it. Just by eye. Anyway, found the settings posted in the link below from a review elsewhere of the HD25 (not the "-e" version) but decided to give them a try. Looks much closer to great to me so far! http://www.avforums.com/forums/18792314-post1.html
the calibration is also effected by the bulb and the color of the room , floor and walls not to mention you dont use the same numbers on a grey screen as you would a white one... just throwing that out there as additional info for others..
it is odd that you would prefer the numbers from the older HD25 with an all together different type of bulb and ballast as well as (I think because of the lower lumens with a brighter bulb ) a different color wheel...
Oddly enough so far I have liked the colors out of the box on mine after turning down the BC to 2 or 1 depending on content.
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by kwk2293 View Post

This whould supprice me if true .vip ,estar of america,monster vision,optoma rf glasses are made by. Bit. Cauldron
Well I'm a member of a another forum and two members swear they have both the optoma and the "canadian ones" and they say the finish on them is slightly different one being glossier than the other and both say the optomas are brighter but the picture is close... one user stated the canadian ones have a green tint.
I dont know who to believe honestly.
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by nickoakdl View Post

Hey Kedelbach, thanks for the screenshots!

If you have the time could you take a picture of one of the soft corners when they have text on them? Everything else looks great to me otherwise!

You're welcome Nick.
I tried to get a good photo of the edge/corner focus with the grid test pattern, but couldn't get my camera to give a good representation (on macro, auto, preset, etc).
The baseball scoreboard in the upper left corner was the closest I got, but the HD signal wasn't 100% "sharp" to begin with.
I'll see if I can move the 131's menu around to the corners tonight for a better shot, but in any case at anything like normal viewing distances I can't see anything 'off'.

One thing I do miss is more vertical shift. I know the 131 can shift a little (electronically through the menu) but with the mount and ceiling height restrictions the screen is ~6 inches higher than I'd ideally want it. I'm already used to it, not like we have to crane our heads back to see it. If I build a platform for the speakers it will visually seem more centered on the wall.

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Old 10-25-2013, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

Well I'm a member of a another forum and two members swear they have both the optoma and the "canadian ones" and they say the finish on them is slightly different one being glossier than the other and both say the optomas are brighter but the picture is close... one user stated the canadian ones have a green tint.
I dont know who to believe honestly.

Auguedoggy,

I believe you said some peeps with ESTAR 3D glasses claimed they have noticed green tint. I did not notice anything on my vip-3d glasses, however too be honest I didn't look for differences.
What is the poit if they seem to work properly when watchign the movies? For people who are worrying about it, they should spend extra mooooney to get genuie Optoma 3D glasses :-)

I do have the "Canadian ones" made by vip-3d. They have glossy FRAME, not the LENSES. I watched few movies usign Optoma's and few using vip-3D and I haven't noticed any difference between the two. I talk to one of the owners of consignia.ca and he reassured me they are made by the same company as Optoma ones. Another thing that is different is firmware on them. vip-3d glasses offer option to change polarity on them (I thougth they were broken, but actually the polarity was reversed), option which is not offered on optomas 3D glasses. Other than glossy frame, different logo and different firmware they work very well and as advertised. Another AVS member who recommended them also has no issues with them. I used 2 pairs of Optomas and 2 pairs of vip-3D glasses and everything worked great. Honestly for me 3D on HD25e was a throw-in bonus, but I do actually like it.

I will try to repaint my 110" DIY screen painted with Black Widow paint with a new paint on the weekend (I hope) and I will post more pictures, including pictures of my new 3D vip glasses side by side with Optomas. Also I will try to capture soft corners issue.
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:15 AM
 
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I have the Estar DLPlink glasses and they work great for me. Before that I tried the True-Depth glasses, and they let too much white flash through to destroy the contrast. The Estar glasses have very good contrast. The projector uses a white flash, by the way. In the past my other projectors used red flash. The Estars look dead-on copies of the Optoma glasses to me when compared to the images online. As for differences in glass tint. That variation can be in manufacturing. Most DLPlink glasses have a transmission value of 36%, plus or minus 2% as I understand.
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:33 PM
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I ordered the Optoma HD131Xe a few minutes ago from Amazon and paid $12 to have it delivered tomorrow. I look forward to learning from everyone here how to get it setup before the Lions/Cowboys game Sunday at noon. smile.gif
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:58 PM
 
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I ordered the Optoma HD131Xe a few minutes ago from Amazon and paid $12 to have it delivered tomorrow. I look forward to learning from everyone here how to get it setup before the Lions/Cowboys game Sunday at noon. smile.gif

I've discovered that the tomorrow delivery option is no better than the standard option--tomorrow usually means the next business day or at least a day after they send it. that said, I hope you're a Lion's guy--cool.gif
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:01 PM
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Auguedoggy,

I believe you said some peeps with ESTAR 3D glasses claimed they have noticed green tint. I did not notice anything on my vip-3d glasses, however too be honest I didn't look for differences.
What is the poit if they seem to work properly when watchign the movies? For people who are worrying about it, they should spend extra mooooney to get genuie Optoma 3D glasses :-)

I do have the "Canadian ones" made by vip-3d. They have glossy FRAME, not the LENSES. I watched few movies usign Optoma's and few using vip-3D and I haven't noticed any difference between the two. I talk to one of the owners of consignia.ca and he reassured me they are made by the same company as Optoma ones. Another thing that is different is firmware on them. vip-3d glasses offer option to change polarity on them (I thougth they were broken, but actually the polarity was reversed), option which is not offered on optomas 3D glasses. Other than glossy frame, different logo and different firmware they work very well and as advertised. Another AVS member who recommended them also has no issues with them. I used 2 pairs of Optomas and 2 pairs of vip-3D glasses and everything worked great. Honestly for me 3D on HD25e was a throw-in bonus, but I do actually like it.

I will try to repaint my 110" DIY screen painted with Black Widow paint with a new paint on the weekend (I hope) and I will post more pictures, including pictures of my new 3D vip glasses side by side with Optomas. Also I will try to capture soft corners issue.
You can change polarity with optomas as well on transmiter had to do it with jvc
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:47 PM
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If you look up 3d rf optoma manual the manual will show how to change polarity
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Old 10-25-2013, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TVSTAR View Post

I have the Estar DLPlink glasses and they work great for me. Before that I tried the True-Depth glasses, and they let too much white flash through to destroy the contrast. The Estar glasses have very good contrast. The projector uses a white flash, by the way. In the past my other projectors used red flash. The Estars look dead-on copies of the Optoma glasses to me when compared to the images online. As for differences in glass tint. That variation can be in manufacturing. Most DLPlink glasses have a transmission value of 36%, plus or minus 2% as I understand.
estars are not dlp link as far as I know theres no white flash with rf setup?
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Old 10-25-2013, 04:02 PM
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I've discovered that the tomorrow delivery option is no better than the standard option--tomorrow usually means the next business day or at least a day after they send it. that said, I hope you're a Lion's guy--cool.gif
yup...I paid for 2nd day delivery and got mine 6 days later from Buydig so.... total waste for me..
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Old 10-25-2013, 04:22 PM
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estars are not dlp link as far as I know theres no white flash with rf setup?
They make rf and dlp
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Old 10-25-2013, 04:22 PM
 
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

estars are not dlp link as far as I know theres no white flash with rf setup?

Yesterday I received my EStar America ESG601s (2) DLP Link 3D Glasses from Amazon. I haven't opened them up yet; the HD131XE isn't mounted yet. I wrote in this link yesterday to see what the experience of using these was like. I am trying to not spend much money and the DLP Link route is considerably less. (Check out Amazon for specifics.) I was glad to read TVSTAR's post. If I find anything negative to report about using the ESD601's I'll do so.
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Old 10-25-2013, 04:51 PM
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Yesterday I received my EStar America ESG601s (2) DLP Link 3D Glasses from Amazon. I haven't opened them up yet; the HD131XE isn't mounted yet. I wrote in this link yesterday to see what the experience of using these was like. I am trying to not spend much money and the DLP Link route is considerably less. (Check out Amazon for specifics.) I was glad to read TVSTAR's post. If I find anything negative to report about using the ESD601's I'll do so.
gotcha...I am in the same boat with multiple brands and pairs of dlp-link glasses now (dog shattered a pair last week) I believe they all allow some flash to be seen and cause the black to look lighter with less contrast... from my understanding its the nature of the technology and why optoma is slowly moving towards rf glasses on newer designs...
I made a bad assumption the estars in mention were RF.. thanks for clarifying kwk2293...

long day today (last day of jury duty) I think im done reading because im not doing to well at it this evening.... I'm in need of a stiff drink.
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:02 PM
 
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

gotcha...I am in the same boat with multiple brands and pairs of dlp-link glasses now (dog shattered a pair last week) I believe they all allow some flash to be seen and cause the black to look lighter with less contrast... from my understanding its the nature of the technology and why optoma is slowly moving towards rf glasses on newer designs...
I made a bad assumption the estars in mention were RF.. thanks for clarifying kwk2293...

long day today (last day of jury duty) I think im done reading because im not doing to well at it this evening.... I'm in need of a stiff drink.

I'll bet I end up checking into rf glasses if I notice the reasons why rf are preferred. I had to start somewhere. This technology stuff keeps on getting better, and keeping up is difficult at times.
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:10 PM
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Dont know this for sure but i think dlp glasses are darker making 3d look dimmer then optomas i have both glasses but use on different projectors. Jvc rs55. Benq w7000
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:15 AM
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Is there any difference in opening the zoom pup all the way to the right or left? For example when it is sitting on its feet and i move the zoom nob all the way to the right it makes the image size small then I use the focus to focus it. Or is it better to go all the way to the left and it's a larger image. Is there a difference. Sorry if that's confusing I don't know how else to explain it


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Old 10-26-2013, 10:30 AM
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Because of the lenses defect I'm going to say you'll get the best image with the lens zoomed to make the image smaller and adjust distance with projector placement... I think the focus issue is more of an issue with those using full zoom but its just a theorey.
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Old 10-26-2013, 10:42 AM
 
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It's always best to have the projector as close to the screen as possible with the image zoomed to it's largest size. That will give you the best brightness. With this setup, I am able to see the square dlp grid at the edge and in the center equally. The only thing I see that might detract from the focus is the image at the edge suffers from chromatic aberration--a slight separation of colors that diffuse the image. This could be the reason people think there is a focus problem and is often caused by cheap lenses. That said, I guess we wait and see what people find out when they have the lens replaced.
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by TVSTAR View Post

It's always best to have the projector as close to the screen as possible with the image zoomed to it's largest size. That will give you the best brightness. With this setup, I am able to see the square dlp grid at the edge and in the center equally. The only thing I see that might detract from the focus is the image at the edge suffers from chromatic aberration--a slight separation of colors that diffuse the image. This could be the reason people think there is a focus problem and is often caused by cheap lenses. That said, I guess we wait and see what people find out when they have the lens replaced.
This is contrary to typical lens and DLP design... At longest throw, you will lose brightness, but gain contrast and sharpness as the lens aperture gets smaller and increasing the angle of separation between the projected image and the off-state light of the DMD... Both serving to reduce contrast-killing reflections in the lens, albeit at the expense of some brightness. I'd be VERY surprised if this PJ ran 180 degrees counter to conventional wisdom and TI's DLP design docs.

"A wide screen just makes a bad film twice as bad. "
-Samuel Goldwyn

I wonder what he'd think about 3D IMAX?
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:23 PM
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Hmm I was under the impression the image was brighter when zoomed so the image is smaller just like a beam of light from a mag light...
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