Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 3 - AVS Forum

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Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

niggenz's Avatar niggenz
02:44 PM Liked: 22
post #61 of 2942
08-16-2013 | Posts: 602
Joined: Apr 2001
Looks like Amazon has these back in stock but for more than the HD25e! Supply and demand? What's really going on.
djkest's Avatar djkest
03:00 PM Liked: 25
post #62 of 2942
08-16-2013 | Posts: 677
Joined: Nov 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

Looks like Amazon has these back in stock but for more than the HD25e! Supply and demand? What's really going on.

Would be interesting to see what the list price is for the HD131xe vs HD25e.
fxrh's Avatar fxrh
02:05 AM Liked: 33
post #63 of 2942
08-17-2013 | Posts: 193
Joined: Dec 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

Only one User setting frown.gif. No separate settings for 2D and 3D. Boo....

I have read elsewhere that while there is only one User setting, the 2D and 3D settings are maintained separately. This should be easy for you to check, I would think.

Edit: I just searched and Art's review of the HD25-LV says: "Good news, 3D settings don't seem to affect 2D settings and vice versa. Thus you can tweak 3D settings and still have your 2D settings intact when you go back to 2D. Whew - that's a small win for the consumer!"
Miwo's Avatar Miwo
01:29 PM Liked: 12
post #64 of 2942
08-17-2013 | Posts: 121
Joined: Aug 2006
Heres my review of the projector. I posted the same thing on Amazon btw.

Extremely happy with my purchase. I highly recommend buying this projector if Bang/Buck, Quietness, and 1080p/3D are your most important factors in selecting a projector. Completely blows away by 720P LED 500 Lumen Projector I was using previously. I'm not qualified to do professional Lumen measurements, or direct comparisons between similarly priced 1080p projectors, but take a look at some of the points I've highlighted. If you have anything you want to ask me or have me check that doesnt require professional equipment, leave me a comment. Thanks for reading!

Pros:
+ Noise: Nearly Silent in ECO Mode. My seating position is directly under the projector and I do not hear it over my HTPC/PS3 located in the corner of the same room. Bright Mode is slightly audible, but does not emit a high pitched fan noise. I cannot stress this point enough. My central air is much louder than this...If the projector wasn't throwing a giant image on my screen, I wouldn't know that its on. Its that quiet to me!
+ Price : I got this on Preorder for $ 769 . It seems to be in price flux with supply/demand. If you see this for above $9, just buy the HD25e (similar specs, brighter, more contrast, white color). Excellent value and Bang/Buck. It will be great if the price settles down to under $800 again.
+ Black Levels and Colors were very good right outside of the Box. Several Color Presets available as well as Fine Tuning of Color Temperature (Warm/Cool), Color Space (RGB Full 0-255 or RGB Limited 16-235 or YUV), and Hue/Saturation/Gain Levels for Red/Green/Cyan/Magenta/Blue/Yellow. RGB Adjustment on White. If you want to fine tune and professionally calibrate, you should be able to. This is a budget projector, but Shadow Details were pretty good. On projectors with horrible black levels, even the empty black side borders (like a 2.35:1 aspect ratio movie on a 16:9 screen) will be a washed out black or light grey.
+ Input Lag : This projector is very responsive. I play 3D Fighting Games which require 1-Frame Links (Button Presses with 1/60th of a second timing) to execute combos. I did not have any problems playing demanding video games on this projector. It should not hinder your gameplay. I have most post processing features turned off (BrilliantColor, Dymaic Black, Noise Reduction, Edge Masking, Zoom).
+ RF 3D: I paired this up with the Optoma RF 3D Glasses and 3D Emitter. Watched Avengers in 3D without any problems. Very impressive, did not notice any dropouts or abnormalities even when viewing from the opposite side of the room.
+ Lamp Replacement is affordable: A quick google of the 190W BL-FU190E shows $179 replacement cost. The Lamp is rated at 6000 Hours in Eco Mode, or 3500 in Bright Mode. 6000 Hours is about 4 years using the projector for 4 hours a day

Cons:
- Remote Control Backlighting: Extremely bright blue blacklighting. Borderline offensive
- Flimsy Plastic Zoom and Focus: Does not feel sturdy at all. Very loose. I havn't noticed focus or zoom drifting though
- Did not come with Lens Dust Cap (although manual refers to it)
- Placement requires more pre-planning due to no Horizontal/Vertical Lens Shift

Other Comments (neither pro or con)
1. 2D/3D Color Settings are maintained separately. Meaning you have to be in a 3D Mode (SBS, T&B, Seq) to alter your 3D color settings. It definitely saves different settings in 2D/3D modes

2. If 3D is a top priority, you may still want to get a brighter projector like the HD25e or HD25-LV. Brightness takes a big hit when you put on 3D Glasses (I used Optoma RF ones). I'd recommend putting the projector in Bright Mode or having a very well light controlled room for Eco Mode 3D.

3. Power Consumption Read from a Kill-a-Watt Meter:
STANDBY: 0W
ECO-Mode: 200W
BRIGHT-Mode: 234W

4. Did not and will not test the speaker. I think its a useless feature for a home theater projector
niggenz's Avatar niggenz
04:07 AM Liked: 22
post #65 of 2942
08-18-2013 | Posts: 602
Joined: Apr 2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxrh View Post

I have read elsewhere that while there is only one User setting, the 2D and 3D settings are maintained separately. This should be easy for you to check, I would think.

Edit: I just searched and Art's review of the HD25-LV says: "Good news, 3D settings don't seem to affect 2D settings and vice versa. Thus you can tweak 3D settings and still have your 2D settings intact when you go back to 2D. Whew - that's a small win for the consumer!"

That's good but then again bad at the same time. It's such laziness from Optoma. 40+ hours on the bulb so far. I think I am qualified to compose a full user review where I will explore this theme.
niggenz's Avatar niggenz
04:14 AM Liked: 22
post #66 of 2942
08-18-2013 | Posts: 602
Joined: Apr 2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

Yeah. I would say that captures it. Some movies in some scenes it is very distracting and others it is non-existent. Been at this for a while with FP's and I have come to expect this with DLP. I am referring to image noise here. Not fan noise. Fan noise isn't a factor. Hope that is what you meant..

I am going to recant this. Seems that the mosquito noise that I mentioned may have come from out of box impressions of the projector. Using the calibration settings I posted earlier, the mosquito noise went away. I revisited the Titanic DVD, rewatched the stairwell/dinner scene and saw that the looks every bit as wonderful as all the professional reviews claim it to be. As for the Romeo + Juliet scene it is at 59:02 in the movie. I think this has more to do with the way the film was washed or possibly encoded than the projector.
shamrock1213's Avatar shamrock1213
05:47 AM Liked: 10
post #67 of 2942
08-18-2013 | Posts: 50
Joined: Dec 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

I am going to recant this. Seems that the mosquito noise that I mentioned may have come from out of box impressions of the projector. Using the calibration settings I posted earlier, the mosquito noise went away. I revisited the Titanic DVD, rewatched the stairwell/dinner scene and saw that the looks every bit as wonderful as all the professional reviews claim it to be. As for the Romeo + Juliet scene it is at 59:02 in the movie. I think this has more to do with the way the film was washed or possibly encoded than the projector.

Thanks! This is great news. I was getting worried about my choice as I think I would find the noise distracting and was considering canceling my order and getting a W1070.
CanadianZ's Avatar CanadianZ
03:06 PM Liked: 11
post #68 of 2942
08-18-2013 | Posts: 77
Joined: Jan 2006
Miwo: you mentioned a con that the projector has no vertical or horizontal lens shift. The menus in the instruction book online say that it has both.

Can anyone confirm this? I need a very small offset or vertical lens shift to even consider any projector.

Thanks, CanadianZ
niggenz's Avatar niggenz
04:33 PM Liked: 22
post #69 of 2942
08-18-2013 | Posts: 602
Joined: Apr 2001
I think you mistake image shift with lens shift. There is no lens shift whatsoever. There is vertical offset however. Check out the projector calculator on Optoma's site to see if it works for you.
Miwo's Avatar Miwo
10:06 AM Liked: 12
post #70 of 2942
08-19-2013 | Posts: 121
Joined: Aug 2006
So I watched Top Gun and Avengers in 3D for the first time. Pretty cool. Using the Optoma RF 3Ds with the Emitter
One thing that surprised me is the huge brightness/contrast hit using the RF 3D glasses. It also adds this warm tint to the whole image. Again, that was my first 3D Projector viewing experience, so I am not used to that reduction in brightness. I see now why people say to have as much Lumens as you can afford if watching 3D Movies.

I havn't tried DLPLink, but ordered the Sainsonic Rainbows from Amazon for $20. Cheap enough that I will try it out and see how it goes.
Overall, does DLPLink or VESA3D/RF give a better experience ? Which has less of a Contrast/Brightness hit? My understanding is that RF3D is only good for viewing distances ?
shamrock1213's Avatar shamrock1213
10:59 AM Liked: 10
post #71 of 2942
08-19-2013 | Posts: 50
Joined: Dec 2007
Is it possible to completely turn off Brilliant Color? I've seen some calibrations of the HD25 reference doing so, but the only menu command I can find is to reduce it to 1. Am I missing something?
Birddoggin's Avatar Birddoggin
09:43 AM Liked: 10
post #72 of 2942
08-20-2013 | Posts: 78
Joined: Jul 2013
My 131Xe has arrived, but I'm repainting my room and have yet to receive my new screen, so I won't be able to use it for a few more days. frown.gif
nickoakdl's Avatar nickoakdl
11:18 AM Liked: 31
post #73 of 2942
08-20-2013 | Posts: 947
Joined: Sep 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miwo View Post

Overall, does DLPLink or VESA3D/RF give a better experience ? Which has less of a Contrast/Brightness hit? My understanding is that RF3D is only good for viewing distances ?

RF is going to give a better viewing experience. DLPLink will have worse contrast, but the brightness should be similar.
Miwo's Avatar Miwo
12:02 PM Liked: 12
post #74 of 2942
08-20-2013 | Posts: 121
Joined: Aug 2006
Thanks Nick. I might just try out a pair of DLPLink Glasses for a firsthand comparison for the hell of it. 3DTV Corp has a new 2013 version of their DLPLink glasses on Ebay that claims 1200:1 CR on the glasses. They are supposed to block out red better than the cheap sainsonics. I havnt seen CR published on any glasses other than theirs. After reading through various threads, it seems like only Bit Cauldron glasses are compatible with the Optoma RF Transmitter. The only Bit Cauldron RF glasses on the market are from Optoma, Monster Cable MAX, EStar America. The Estars are on Amazon, but have no reviews, but seem to be newer (going by date) than the Optoma RF 3D glasses. The Optoma RF 3Ds were released July 2012 according to Amazon.

I might have to mess around with the 3D Settings more. Right now it just isnt bright enough for me, even in Bright Lamp mode. 2D however is more than bright enough even in Eco mode and definitely exceeded my expectations. Anyone have 3D Settings to try?
Miwo's Avatar Miwo
12:18 PM Liked: 12
post #75 of 2942
08-20-2013 | Posts: 121
Joined: Aug 2006
Oh damn, more fudging around with settings .....
Apparently you can manually adjust RF 3D performance settings using the joystick.

http://www.estaramerica.com/assets/esa-esg6100_user-s_guide.pdf
Page 17
Quote:
Lens Duty Cycle Tuning
Moving the joystick left and right will change the total time the glasses open each lens.
LEFT = CLOSE LENSES MORE, BRIGHTNESS GOES DOWN,
GHOSTING MAY GO DOWN
RIGHT = OPEN LENSES MORE, BRIGHTNESS GOES UP,
GHOSTING MAY GO UP
As the duty cycle is changed, a bar of bright violet LED’s will move up
and down to form a gauge of the delay. (Other than color, the delay
gauge and the duty cycle gauge have the same appearance; which
gauge is displayed is determined by which direction has been pressed last.) Each of the five LED’s will
display four visibly different brightness levels (resulting in 20 possible visible values for duty cycle.) With
a small tap the transmitter will change duty cycle by a small amount not visible on the LED display. If left
or right is pressed and held, the gauge will move quickly through the values. If left or right is pressed and
released, the delay will change by a unit one quarter the size of a visible change in lighting. It takes four
taps in the same direction to make a visible change in the gauge; in certain lighting conditions a single
tap may be visible as a change in brightness viewed through the glasses.

EDIT: Blah, forget it. "The adjustment of how long the lenses are open is called duty cycle. The default when using the 3D
Emitter Port cable is 100 percent, meaning that the lenses are open for 100 percent of the possible time.
This is adjustable down to 10 percent of the possible open time. As the lenses are closed more,
everything will become darker. I" . So i guess factory default is as bright as its going to be
Birddoggin's Avatar Birddoggin
12:47 PM Liked: 10
post #76 of 2942
08-20-2013 | Posts: 78
Joined: Jul 2013
What's the word on ceiling mounts for this projector? Will a generic mount accommodate it, or does it require a specific mount?
dougri's Avatar dougri
12:54 PM Liked: 35
post #77 of 2942
08-20-2013 | Posts: 934
Joined: Oct 2006
I'd try it anyway... see if there is any noticeable contrast improvement. Doubt there should be with DLP, but maybe Optoma messed something up with their implementation. Can't hurt anyway.
AV_Integrated's Avatar AV_Integrated
01:55 PM Liked: 381
post #78 of 2942
08-20-2013 | Posts: 3,514
Joined: Jun 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post

What's the word on ceiling mounts for this projector? Will a generic mount accommodate it, or does it require a specific mount?
I have yet to meet a typical DLP/LCD/LCoS home theater projector that can't work with most universal mounts. Of course, it depends on the quality of the universal mount and the weight of the projector.

My recommendation is for the Chief Elite universal mount. It is often available via eBay for less than typical pricing, but it is a long way from a $30 unit as well. Do some research on them because these mounts are extremely versatile in how you set them up, but require a few extra parts which can be picked up at your local hardware store (1.5" flange, 1.5" pipe of the correct length for your specific room).
Birddoggin's Avatar Birddoggin
02:24 PM Liked: 10
post #79 of 2942
08-20-2013 | Posts: 78
Joined: Jul 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

I have yet to meet a typical DLP/LCD/LCoS home theater projector that can't work with most universal mounts. Of course, it depends on the quality of the universal mount and the weight of the projector.

My recommendation is for the Chief Elite universal mount. It is often available via eBay for less than typical pricing, but it is a long way from a $30 unit as well. Do some research on them because these mounts are extremely versatile in how you set them up, but require a few extra parts which can be picked up at your local hardware store (1.5" flange, 1.5" pipe of the correct length for your specific room).

Thanks, I have an angled ceiling, so I will have to buy something to accommodate that.
AV_Integrated's Avatar AV_Integrated
08:45 PM Liked: 381
post #80 of 2942
08-20-2013 | Posts: 3,514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post

Thanks, I have an angled ceiling, so I will have to buy something to accommodate that.
Chief makes a angled ceiling flange which can be pivoted, then you use the same pole of the correct length you need and the Elite mount.

Other companies make 'universal' type vaulted ceiling flanges as well. As long as it has a 1.5" threaded pipe coupler on it, it will be compatible with Chief Elite. Peerless, Premiere, and other mount manufacturers follow this standard. Even cheap places like HTDepot.com have a mount which uses 1.5" standard pipe.
niggenz's Avatar niggenz
03:12 AM Liked: 22
post #81 of 2942
08-21-2013 | Posts: 602
Joined: Apr 2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock1213 View Post

Is it possible to completely turn off Brilliant Color? I've seen some calibrations of the HD25 reference doing so, but the only menu command I can find is to reduce it to 1. Am I missing something?

I can only set Brilliant Color to 1. But for now the borrowed HD25 settings look fine like this though.
DrifterTedd
10:25 AM Liked: 10
post #82 of 2942
08-21-2013 | Posts: 4
Joined: Aug 2013
I ordered the Acer H6510BD for $700 (Still awaiting delivery)... How does the HD131Xe stack up against the H6510BD?
Steve Benkin's Avatar Steve Benkin
05:33 PM Liked: 12
post #83 of 2942
08-21-2013 | Posts: 50
Joined: Sep 2012
My prior HT was an Optoma H78 in a bat cave with a Grey wolf 1.8 gain screen.

This time? tight budget. Thinking of HD131xe with a visual apex 120" 1.1 screen in a room with beige walls/carpet.

Will this be

1) a major upgrade
2) a minor upgrade
3) about the same
4) I really need to find a way to save more $ and get a 50es

Appreciate your feedback.
JoshColorado's Avatar JoshColorado
08:04 PM Liked: 10
post #84 of 2942
08-21-2013 | Posts: 6
Joined: Aug 2005
Just got mine today from Amazon.. Just threw it up on the living room wall, attached PS3 to it and flipped through a few videos. My first home projector, very pleased so far. Even in ECO mode with ambient light. It will really shine in the basement cave I'm finishing though.

My 3 year old (and wife) approves...

Considering it was half the price of my 60" Samsung Plasma... which is a fantastic TV.


djkest's Avatar djkest
10:36 AM Liked: 25
post #85 of 2942
08-22-2013 | Posts: 677
Joined: Nov 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

I think you mistake image shift with lens shift. There is no lens shift whatsoever. There is vertical offset however. Check out the projector calculator on Optoma's site to see if it works for you.

Slight hijack, but can you explain this to me?

Lens shift allows for a small amount of variation at the same mounting location, right?

Vertical offset sounds good, but I don't want to have to use digital keystone correction, which I hear is bad. That would be used when you angle the PJ up (or down), right?

Using my suggested settings, 100" screen, full zoom, 10' 11" throw distance, it says 8" of vertical offset. That is without using keystone correction?
Also it says that I should be expecting 47 FL, which seems terribly bright. But I'm wanting to use Eco mode, is this going to be OK?
curtishd's Avatar curtishd
02:08 PM Liked: 13
post #86 of 2942
08-22-2013 | Posts: 1,744
Joined: May 2004
I am also confused as I have always had lens shift on all my LCD projectors BUT I prefer DLP lately and want to know more about "offset". Is off set adjustable or fixed, meaning if a projector has a 5% offset is that it and you will need to adjust your mount height or lower to center it to the screen?
southpaw85's Avatar southpaw85
03:42 PM Liked: 17
post #87 of 2942
08-22-2013 | Posts: 59
Joined: Aug 2012
The image offset is where the image is going to be BEFORE any keystone adjustments are made. For example, if a projector has 16% offset, this means that the bottom of the image will start at 16% of the height of the image. To be more clear, take a 100" (16:9) diagonal image. A 100" diagonal image (16:9) will have a height of about 50". So, 16% or .16 x 50 = 8". The bottom of the image will begin 8" above the center of the projector lens from a projector with 16% offset. Hope this helps.
AV_Integrated's Avatar AV_Integrated
03:45 PM Liked: 381
post #88 of 2942
08-22-2013 | Posts: 3,514
Joined: Jun 2005
Fixed offset means fixed. 16% offset would mean that a screen 50" tall would need the projector mounted 8" below the edge of the image to center of lens if floor mounting, or 8" above the top of the image edge if ceiling mounting. It is not adjustable.

If you can't raise it that high, then you would need to use digital keystone correction and tilt the projector. This is a bad thing as it degrades image quality. Depending on video processing, this degradation can be significant.

It is always better to place a projector exactly where it 'must' go, and if you must have lens shift, consider the BenQ W7000 or similar.
niggenz's Avatar niggenz
05:24 PM Liked: 22
post #89 of 2942
08-22-2013 | Posts: 602
Joined: Apr 2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

Slight hijack, but can you explain this to me?

Lens shift allows for a small amount of variation at the same mounting location, right?

Yes.

Vertical offset sounds good, but I don't want to have to use digital keystone correction, which I hear is bad. That would be used when you angle the PJ up (or down), right?

Right. But remember offset is not adjustable. But it does increase with the distance of your throw.

Using my suggested settings, 100" screen, full zoom, 10' 11" throw distance, it says 8" of vertical offset. That is without using keystone correction?
Also it says that I should be expecting 47 FL, which seems terribly bright. But I'm wanting to use Eco mode, is this going to be OK?

Sounds right. And yes, it is bright but this is also going to be relative to your personal preference.

niggenz's Avatar niggenz
05:35 PM Liked: 22
post #90 of 2942
08-22-2013 | Posts: 602
Joined: Apr 2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by curtishd View Post

I am also confused as I have always had lens shift on all my LCD projectors BUT I prefer DLP lately and want to know more about "offset". Is off set adjustable or fixed, meaning if a projector has a 5% offset is that it and you will need to adjust your mount height or lower to center it to the screen?

Offset isn't adjustable and it requires users to have a few inches of vertical space to accommodate the offset image. But really what offset is, is bollocks. Plain and simple.

It is just Optoma being lazy and holding onto to the last vestiges of their business class roots. If you are sitting in a meeting room, 4 people deep, huddled around a projector, where offset allows the image to be shot up higher (this is offset in practice) on the wall, it would be a great benefit for an effective presentation. Without offset, the bottom of the image would simply shoot out from the lens maybe an inch or two above the table top surface. This might not be as comfortable to view for all those huddled around that projector (especially, if we were still in say Circa 2004). But in today's day and age where virtual meeting software allows meeting attendees to view presentations on their own private laptop screens, or to not even be in the same room at all, having image offset has long since outlived its usefulness. When is the last time you had to scramble to reserve the one projector in your office just before a meeting? Optoma needs to realize that there is no such thing as as a dual purpose projector any longer; projectors are either Home Theater/Entertainment projectors, or large venue projectors. By having offset, Optoma is requiring its users to have a few extra inches of vertical space added to the desired size of the user's image. They are really shutting out those basement installation users and those with vertical height limitations. It's just plain silly.

Instead, it would be nice if they removed the offset completely, it really is academic and give us a small amount of lens shift.
Tags: Optoma Hd131xe Dlp Projector 3d

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