Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 61 - AVS Forum
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post #1801 of 2922 Old 01-04-2014, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Moonwalker1982 View Post

The same with the blue sky. The images dont show it..but on the 32 inch, the sky is like it should be...light blue..but on the projector it's almost a different colour..almost kinda nearing green. Which colour setting should i change for this? Colour temp didn't change much so i will leave it at Warm.

I posted on this subject earlier in another thread (post #472):
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1455143/optoma-hd25-hd25lv-new-budget-2d-3d-dlp-full-projector/450
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post #1802 of 2922 Old 01-04-2014, 11:26 PM
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Anybody come up with some good 3D settings yet?

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post #1803 of 2922 Old 01-04-2014, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

For those who couldn't find the Estar ESG601 DLP-LINK glasses. They are once again available at Amazon for $34.99 each.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CRN3D98/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1388862448&sr=8-1

I highly recommend them.

Damn, I just ordered and received these Jan 2nd but paid $39.99 for each pair! mad.gif

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post #1804 of 2922 Old 01-05-2014, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by KtrainHurricane View Post

Damn, I just ordered and received these Jan 2nd but paid $39.99 for each pair! mad.gif

Me too. I paid about $40 per pair for 3 pair. Those 6100 RF glasses aren't cheap either, are they?
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post #1805 of 2922 Old 01-06-2014, 10:30 AM
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Anyone know how accurate those projector calculators are on brightness? I am starting to think if it is correct this projector might be too bright.
From the range I am looking at (about 12.5ft) it shows to be 32fl

Does this sound right? And if so, can this be dimmed via eco mode?

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post #1806 of 2922 Old 01-06-2014, 10:49 AM
 
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Originally Posted by PM-Performance View Post

Anyone know how accurate those projector calculators are on brightness? I am starting to think if it is correct this projector might be too bright.
From the range I am looking at (about 12.5ft) it shows to be 32fl

Does this sound right? And if so, can this be dimmed via eco mode?

Well, I am 13'1" away from a 100" screen and using eco and dynamic black setting, and the brightness seems just right.
I can't measure the fl numbers but I am glad to have a projector that I can add brightness to later as the lamp dims.
I hope others will comment.
I also have Brilliant Color set at 1 and that helps the picture quality and brightness level. I don't think I see any crush of whites.
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post #1807 of 2922 Old 01-06-2014, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by anthony fremont View Post

Me too. I paid about $40 per pair for 3 pair. Those 6100 RF glasses aren't cheap either, are they?

If you ordered them from Amazon and email them about the price drop, they will refund you the $5 difference per each pair of glasses you ordered. I did this last night...

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post #1808 of 2922 Old 01-06-2014, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mikemav View Post

These are the ones I am using, also from that same post, but these are the original ones posted for the HD25, not 25e. I agree they are different projectors but give these a try, only takes a few minutes. I did not like the ones posted above on my hd131xe personally, felt the reds were too orange. Also seems odd any setting would be at its max (as in blue saturation in the above settings at 50, as high as it goes...) Like I said before, maybe down to differences in taste or particular projectors and lamps, but these original ones posted in that thread worked better for me:Display Mode: User
Brightness: 0
Contrast: -3
Sharpness: 9
Colour: 9
Tint: 2
Advanced
Noise Reduction: 0
Gamma: Film
BrilliantColor: 1
Dynamic Black: Off
Colour Temperature: Warm
Colour Settings: White - Red 0/Green 0/Blue -1, Red - Hue 0/Saturation -1/Gain -10, Green - H 10/S -2/G -3, Blue - H 10/S 0/G -22, Cyan - H 8/S -4/G -3, Magenta - H 19/S 4/G -16, Yellow - H 20/S -7/G 4
Colour Space: Auto
Format: Native

So are these the "accepted" settings everyone is going with?

And how about for 3D? Is everyone using the preset ones from Optoma? The same ones listed above? Their own that they would like to share?

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post #1809 of 2922 Old 01-06-2014, 11:40 PM
 
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Originally Posted by KtrainHurricane View Post

So are these the "accepted" settings everyone is going with?

And how about for 3D? Is everyone using the preset ones from Optoma? The same ones listed above? 'Their own that they would like to share?

I also add dynamic black at high. My pj is behind a wall so the increased noise is not a problem. Ymmv
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post #1810 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

I also add dynamic black at high. My pj is behind a wall so the increased noise is not a problem. Ymmv

Yes I put Dynamic Black to "High" as well after reading through several posts stating it was a good thing to use. On the topic of noise - you guys have NO idea what "loud" really is. I had an older Sony VPL-BW5 that I sold off to get this Optoma, and I could hear that thing running from other rooms in my house! This Optoma is dead quiet as far as I am concerned.

How about for 3D? I can't seem to find any good settings that have been posted...

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post #1811 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 01:52 AM
 
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Originally Posted by KtrainHurricane View Post

Yes I put Dynamic Black to "High" as well after reading through several posts stating it was a good thing to use. On the topic of noise - you guys have NO idea what "loud" really is. I had an older Sony VPL-BW5 that I sold off to get this Optoma, and I could hear that thing running from other rooms in my house! This Optoma is dead quiet as far as I am concerned.

How about for 3D? I can't seem to find any good settings that have been posted...

(You probably already know this but I mention it anyway.) There is only one setting with this PJ. One cannot switch back and forth. I find that using the DLP-Link emitter and Estar ESG601 glasses results in an excellent picture. You might experiment and see what you get with changing some settings. For me the blacks, contrast and color seem as good with 3D as they do with the 2D version of the same movie.
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post #1812 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

(You probably already know this but I mention it anyway.) There is only one setting with this PJ. One cannot switch back and forth.

There are separate settings for 2D and 3D.

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post #1813 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 08:35 AM
 
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Originally Posted by KtrainHurricane View Post

There are separate settings for 2D and 3D.

Yes. 3D settings do hold their different settings. I find the different settings the 3D (dlplink mode) causes are exactly offset by the glasses dimming. With the ESG601s.

I hope others who have found that the added brightness of dlplink mode was not compensated for by the dimming effect of their glasses might try resetting the brightness and contrast settings while in 3D mode. And it appears that 2D settings are restored when out of 3D mode (DLP-Link).

If anyone's experience is different I hope they will post.
One criticism of this projector has been that there is only one preset. But it seems there are 2. But only one for 2D and one for 3D.

When I first used 3D (DLP-Link) I noticed that the "white flash" that contains the 3D information for the glasses was reflected in changed settings numbers. I assumed that upon restoration to 2D these numbers would reduce their added brightness. This does not appear to be the case.
Cool.
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post #1814 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 09:45 AM
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Hey guys,

I've been reading up on this thread as I just ordered an HD131Xe and am waiting for it to arrive. I have an old Panasonic AE500 that recently died along with a Chief RPA mount. I haven't read anything about mounting this thing and can't seem to find any info on whether my Chief RPA mount will work with the Optoma. Is anyone using a Chief RPA mount for this projector?

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Originally Posted by Five28 View Post

Hey guys,

I've been reading up on this thread as I just ordered an HD131Xe and am waiting for it to arrive. I have an old Panasonic AE500 that recently died along with a Chief RPA mount. I haven't read anything about mounting this thing and can't seem to find any info on whether my Chief RPA mount will work with the Optoma. Is anyone using a Chief RPA mount for this projector?

Check page 67 of the manual located at this link to find the dimensions of the mounting holes for the hd131xe.
(Manual is located in downloads)

http://www.optomausa.com/products/detail/HD131Xe#
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post #1816 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

Yes. 3D settings do hold their different settings. I find the different settings the 3D (dlplink mode) causes are exactly offset by the glasses dimming. With the ESG601s.

I hope others who have found that the added brightness of dlplink mode was not compensated for by the dimming effect of their glasses might try resetting the brightness and contrast settings while in 3D mode. And it appears that 2D settings are restored when out of 3D mode (DLP-Link).

If anyone's experience is different I hope they will post.
One criticism of this projector has been that there is only one preset. But it seems there are 2. But only one for 2D and one for 3D.

When I first used 3D (DLP-Link) I noticed that the "white flash" that contains the 3D information for the glasses was reflected in changed settings numbers. I assumed that upon restoration to 2D these numbers would reduce their added brightness. This does not appear to be the case.
Cool.

So are you saying you use the preset 3D settings that Optoma provides?

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post #1817 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 11:11 AM
 
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Originally Posted by KtrainHurricane View Post

So are you saying you use the preset 3D settings that Optoma provides?

Yes. And with the Estat ESG601 DLP-LINK glasses I found the added brightness of the DLP-Link white-flash emitter signal was dimmed down just right.
However, another pair of DLP-LINK glasses (MOACC) don't provide as much dimming, so if I used these glasses only I would reduce the amount of brightness the 3D setting boosts.
I did not realize that the user could change the settings in 3D w/o having the 2D settings changed.

It kind of means that one should use only one brand/model of 3d DLP-Link glasses for all viewers since I have noticed a large amount of difference in the dimming effect they each have.

For me the default increased setting changes that occurred when I displayed a 3D disc and viewed with my DLP-Link ESG601 glasses were perfect. I have now changed those settings (brightness and sharpness and color) to confirm that the 2D setting will stay the same when I switch back to 2D. My very limited test seems to confirm this.
I will find out more solidly when I watch a 2D movie later, and do more experimenting.

I hate to turn the PJ on and off w/o real usage as it limits lamp life.
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post #1818 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

Check page 67 of the manual located at this link to find the dimensions of the mounting holes for the hd131xe.
(Manual is located in downloads)

http://www.optomausa.com/products/detail/HD131Xe#

Thank you Cyrano. I'll take my old projector down later this afternoon and will take some measurements and see if my old mount will still work.

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Thank you Cyrano. I'll take my old projector down later this afternoon and will take some measurements and see if my old mount will still work.
You're welcome.
And it is possible to create an intermediate "plate" to match the mount and the PJ together. I used a small quarter inch thick piece of birch plywood to do this. I beveled and sanded it til it had a presentable appearance.

Good luck.
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Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

You're welcome.
And it is possible to create an intermediate "plate" to match the mount and the PJ together. I used a small quarter inch thick piece of birch plywood to do this. I beveled and sanded it til it had a presentable appearance.

Good luck.

I took my old PJ down and inspected the mounting plate. The holes don't seem like they would line up with the ones on the Optoma but I can simply make a template when the projector gets here and then transfer those marks to the mounting plate and then drill new holes. Looks like my Chief RPA mount will still be on duty. Thanks again.

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post #1821 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 04:51 PM
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I just got my PJ today and held it up kind of in place to get an idea of mounting.
I think the offset will work good now to get a light bulb out of the way.

One thing though that I am not sure if is a problem since I am sooo green.
Any issues I will run into by running full zoom? I have to run full zoom to get a 110" picture and thats like 110" on the dot! I will know more when I mount it, but i wanted to order a screen sooner than later while I still have a few bucks.
Im gonna try and find something to temp mount it tonight via shelf or something to see how close I can get it.

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post #1822 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 05:06 PM
 
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Originally Posted by PM-Performance View Post

I just got my PJ today and held it up kind of in place to get an idea of mounting.
I think the offset will work good now to get a light bulb out of the way.

One thing though that I am not sure if is a problem since I am sooo green.
Any issues I will run into by running full zoom? I have to run full zoom to get a 110" picture and thats like 110" on the dot! I will know more when I mount it, but i wanted to order a screen sooner than later while I still have a few bucks.
Im gonna try and find something to temp mount it tonight via shelf or something to see how close I can get it.
When using full wide zoom be sure and check the focus in all four corners using the menu positioning selector in the HD131XE menu. (The menu can display itself in All Four corners of the screen, one at a time.)

There is a focusing issue with some units. Although it sounds as though newer units are okay in this area.
It is something that is not noticeable at all with a bluray disc image.
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post #1823 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 05:17 PM
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Yea I was gonna check that once I got it sitting near its spot so I could plug in a BD player to it too.
Where can I find the manufacture date? Mine does have a lense cap if that helps signify

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post #1824 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 05:22 PM
 
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Originally Posted by PM-Performance View Post

Yea I was gonna check that once I got it sitting near its spot so I could plug in a BD player to it too.
Where can I find the manufacture date? Mine does have a lense cap if that helps signify

Hope yours is good.
The bluray image won't display the problem. Only an HTPC or the built-in menu moved to all four corners will allow you to see it.

Good luck.
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post #1825 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 06:13 PM
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As far as I can see it looks good.
I moved it forward a little and on the back of my sofa and got 100" fully zoomed. Moved it back it bit closer to where it will be and got 114" zoomed. So I think I will try to get to a 110" like I planned instead of the 106"

One thing I noticed is as soon as a movie started there was a TON of noise. I flipped HDMI and same thing. I narrowed it down to the internal speaker. It seemed to be good on the initial boot up of the PS3 with that sound. Any idea?
I wont be using the internal speaker, but I dont know if I want one that is blown right out of the box.
I may have to disconnect one of my other BD players and try with a better HDMI cable also. I tried with a cheap cable since my primaries are zip tied in my ent center for my Panny
Think that may be the issue?

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post #1826 of 2922 Old 01-07-2014, 06:44 PM
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False alarm. I hooked up my Panny BD player and better HDMI cable and audio plays fine from the internal speaker.
Now I gotta figure out a mount and screen.

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post #1827 of 2922 Old 01-08-2014, 01:26 AM
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I had no idea 3d settings could be different. So I can have a brighter picture with my rf glasses. Time to read over this page again.
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post #1828 of 2922 Old 01-08-2014, 07:25 AM
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Hello everyone!

 

After much research, I bought an HD131XE for Christmas as my first projector but I still have some newbies question, maybe someone can answer them here :)

 

- I read that everytime you turn on the projector you "burn" 2 hours of the bulb life. Is it true? If so, is it included in the "Hours of lamp counter" in the menu?

 

- When the system tell you to change the bulb. Is it better to do it right now even if the brightness / quality of image is still good? How to do know it's really the time to change it?

 

- I read that sometime the bulb can "explode" when it's too old. Is it true and normal? Shouldn't it just burn like a "normal bulb"? If the bulb can indeed explode, does it damage the projector?

 

- And last question, I plugged the projector in a outlet surge protector (like the picture below) and I'm turning it off when not using the projector. Is it better to turn it off or leave it on (the surge protector, not the projector of course!)

I have been using the projector for about 2 weeks now, mostly for video games and it's amazing. I already have 50 hours on it! (I played at lot in the Holidays). I'm really happy with my purchase!

 

Thanks!

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post #1829 of 2922 Old 01-08-2014, 08:26 AM
 
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Hello everyone!

After much research, I bought an HD131XE for Christmas as my first projector but I still have some newbies question, maybe someone can answer them here smile.gif

- I read that everytime you turn on the projector you "burn" 2 hours of the bulb life. Is it true? If so, is it included in the "Hours of lamp counter" in the menu?

- When the system tell you to change the bulb. Is it better to do it right now even if the brightness / quality of image is still good? How to do know it's really the time to change it?

- I read that sometime the bulb can "explode" when it's too old. Is it true and normal? Shouldn't it just burn like a "normal bulb"? If the bulb can indeed explode, does it damage the projector?

- And last question, I plugged the projector in a outlet surge protector (like the picture below) and I'm turning it off when not using the projector. Is it better to turn it off or leave it on (the surge protector, not the projector of course!)


I have been using the projector for about 2 weeks now, mostly for video games and it's amazing. I already have 50 hours on it! (I played at lot in the Holidays). I'm really happy with my purchase!

Thanks!

I own this pj and I may be wrong in my assumptions but my experience with two other pjs when it comes to hours timers is that it is "suggested replacement time".

One pj still projects at about 800 past the limit.
And in another I replaced a lamp (keeping it as a backup) that was about 650 hours past replacement as the timer displayed.

I never experienced an exploding lamp but read the accounts of others who did. I don't recall anyone experiencing damage, except to nerves. I don't think it happens very often.
Common sense answers most of your questions I think.

The 2 hour penalty for switching the projector on and off is because that act damages the lamp more than merely running the pj.

I have my projector on a battery backup surge protector so that in a power outage I can properly shut it down. Cost: $60-70.
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post #1830 of 2922 Old 01-08-2014, 01:37 PM
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I have had this projector for a while now and I am very happy with it.  I have noticed that the corners are a little soft (can focus bottom corners and top are not quite as sharp), but frankly unless I am projecting small text to the corners, I don't notice it at all.  It has softened up a little over time.  But then I also don't have it perfectly centered either, as my ceiling is 7 foot and the screen is only about 10 inches from the ceiling.. I would say that the top of the screen is maybe 3" down from the center of the lens.  Honestly I don't care, it is good enough.

 

My daughter has been playing GTA5 on PS3 on it for the last few days and is addicted.  No problems using any source yet.

 

Blu-ray seems to be far brighter so I change to the custom settings that are commonly posted here, which on regular 1080i cable seem a little drab and have less "pop".  I don't notice any color accuracy issues at all, but then I don't worry about it and don't use reference material to compare.  I figure if you don't notice it, don't go out of your way to find out if a color is slightly off or you WILL notice it all the time.  The only reason I noticed the slightly soft corners is because I read about it here and then put the menu in those corners to check, and sure enough, if I make one corner super sharp and perfectly focused, the opposite corner will be not quite perfect.  But if I stop thinking about it I don't notice it.  If I had to read small text in the corners regularly I might notice it, but overall it is so incredibly sharp of a picture that I have no personal issues with it.  Could it be better? Yes.  Would I notice while watching blu rays or playing games if it was better? no.

 

The projector is mounted directly above where I sit, and I DO hear it.  However, it is reasonable, so unless I am listening for it or there is a dead silent part of a movie, I don't hear it.  I have a gas fireplace in the room and if I run it and the heat collects at the ceiling, I will notice the fan ramp up on the projector and hear it much more loudly.  But this is not usually an issue.

 

I noticed someone said a "con" was that the remote eye required you point the remote directly at it, and that is not true.. I point the remote at the screen and it reflects perfectly every time.. As long as I am not pointing the remote at the ceiling or at the floor, it works perfectly.

 

I have two gripes about it though.  First, my programmable remote does not have any codes that work, and even learning remotes with only a single power button don't work for both on and off because they are different buttons and different IR codes.  I would like to get a quality learning remote (like a harmony) but I haven't found one that has enough regular buttons for all the features I use regularly on my cable remote.  I don't want to have to use a touch screen remote because I like buttons I can feel for.  So I have to have the projector remote to turn on and off and to switch to the second hdmi input when I go to blu-ray or video games.  My old Marantz receiver doesn't have hdmi switching, so I use the two inputs on the projector.

 

Second, the hour glass is frickin annoying.  It takes far too long.  Even my old mits RP could switch from 480i to 1080i ten times faster. My lcd's in other rooms are instantaneous on switching from 1080i to p or even to 720 (my cable box will upscale 720 and 480 to 1080p but not 1080i, so it changes from channel to channel).  I am considering replacing my perfectly good Marantz receiver with something newer that has hdmi switching and 1080p upscaling built in so that the projector never switches modes and I don't have to see the stupid hour glass.  Tough choice because my old Marantz works perfectly otherwise.

 

Otherwise I am VERY happy with it.  I realize that more expensive projectors will have better blacks and all that, but frankly it is good enough for me by far.  I am not a perfectionist although I do like quality, and the picture is close enough to perfect for me to not care if I could improve slightly.  As I said, if someone pointed it out and showed me side by side I might feel different, but one thing I learned from being in the audio business professionally for nearly 10 years was that if you don't point out the flaws, MOST people will never even spot them, and half the people who think they are some kind of "phile" will be wrong in pointing out the flaws.  Don't put too much weight behind what some people comment on here, unless you are into comparing extreme details, you likely will never even see anything mentioned here.  If you are on the fence about buying one of these, I will leave you with this: make sure you use the projector calculator for your placement and don't worry about it being absolutely perfect, you WILL be happy.  You have some "fudge factor" but your best results will be if you are centered properly and have your spacings right.  Don't just assume you can put it wherever and it will work, you do have to plan for placement, but if you are off by a few inches you will be fine.  Buy through amazon and if you are unhappy with it, they WILL take care of you, their service is excellent and all you have to do is complain sometimes, which is an easy process.  If you are trying to achieve the picture quality of a $25k projector, then this isn't the one for you, but if you just want a great picture on a really big screen, go for it.

 

One more point to make:  I questioned between a large lcd or a projector and it was the biggest decision I considered in buying this.  In the end, you have to decide what is most important to you.  If you can darken the room a lot and are OK with having to darken the room and let the projector warm up for a few minutes before watching EVERY TIME, then you would be OK with a projector.  If you don't want to darken the room every time and just want to turn on and watch, then you will likely be happier with an LCD flatscreen.  If you hate the idea of darkening the room to watch tv, then the big screen size will probably not be enough to keep you happy.

 

Hope this helps for the newcomers.

Mr772, trenier and TheKwisatz like this.
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