Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 71 - AVS Forum
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post #2101 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 07:26 AM
 
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We would have to be all in the same place looking at the same thing to come to a conclusion that has value. Otherwise it is all theory.
Film grain is not noise. Digially enhanced grain is noise.

We all think we are perfectionists, have a good eye, and have quality judgmental abilities.
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post #2102 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

We would have to be all in the same place looking at the same thing to come to a conclusion that has value. Otherwise it is all theory.
Film grain is not noise. Digially enhanced grain is noise.

We all think we are perfectionists, have a good eye, and have quality judgmental abilities.

kinda agree, we all should be able to tell noise though...and I see it with this projector. noise to me is kinda hard to explain, and yes I know the difference between noise and grain smile.gif PM how old is your projector? when and where did you get it.
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post #2103 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 08:31 AM
 
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Originally Posted by bd2003 View Post

Anyway, so right now I'm having a tough time settling on an ND filter. ND2 is a too weak. ND4 is too strong. The only filter I could find between them is the variable type...which works, but the edges are out of focus because it has to pass through two layers. Anyone know where I can find an "ND3" filter? Does that even exist?

You're going an interesting direction with this. I do hope you keep us updated.
You might get some real good black levels.
Are you pushing it up with Brilliant Color? And do you notice any problems with unnatural looking facial tones?
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post #2104 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 08:45 AM
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I guess thinking about it more, I am not getting noise. I do not recall any blockiness or pixelation. Just graininess.
Maybe I notice it more with it being blown up 2x over my plasma.
Im not overly concerned at this point. Maybe I will change out my BD player to a Oppo 103D soon though to get a quality player. Probably not a bad way to spend $600 lol

I think my fiance is gonna leave me soon. lol. I keep telling her I am done and I still need another set of surrounds, an additional sub and an additional reciever to move my other setup upstairs and then maybe get the Oppo. hahahahah. Primary maybe is the oppo though.

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post #2105 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 09:17 AM
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Just got my protector back for the focus issue. 3 day turnaround :-)

Paperwork said they also updated firmware.
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post #2106 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

You're going an interesting direction with this. I do hope you keep us updated.
You might get some real good black levels.
Are you pushing it up with Brilliant Color? And do you notice any problems with unnatural looking facial tones?

Black levels/contrast are much better since I decided to use BC. Faces look fine once the greyscale is corrected. I feel like I'm leaving way too much contrast performance on the table by not using it.

BC 1 + ND2 filter = excellent greyscale tracking, good contrast but so-so black level. Maybe a little too bright.

BC 5 + ND4 filter = decent greyscale (gets out of line to about 6800K at 70-100% after correction, not too noticeable. Good contrast and black level, but somewhat dim.

BC10 + ND4 filter = greyscale bad enough that you notice it, same good black level but much brighter, much more contrast. Still watchable.

So far I prefer option #2...but it's too dim. I can put the lamp on bright mode and the brightness would be just right, without killing the black levels...but that feels wasteful.

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post #2107 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 09:31 AM
 
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Originally Posted by bd2003 View Post

Black levels/contrast are much better since I decided to use BC. Faces look fine once the greyscale is corrected. I feel like I'm leaving way too much contrast performance on the table by not using it.

BC 1 + ND2 filter = excellent greyscale tracking, good contrast but so-so black level. Maybe a little too bright.

BC 5 + ND4 filter = decent greyscale (gets out of line to about 6800K at 70-100% after correction, not too noticeable. Good contrast and black level, but somewhat dim.

BC10 + ND4 filter = greyscale bad enough that you notice it, same good black level but much brighter, much more contrast. Still watchable.

So far I prefer option #2...but it's too dim. I can put the lamp on bright mode and the brightness would be just right, without killing the black levels...but that feels wasteful.

Cool. Keep us updated!
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post #2108 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 09:41 AM
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Do you guys really notice any/much difference with going from Eco to Bright mode? Maybe because I customized settings, but I really don't see much difference at all. Its not like going from Cinema to Vivid on a panel tv like I would have expected

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post #2109 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 10:22 AM
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can anyone send me a link to a good nd2 filter so I can see what you guys are using or recommend? pref. from amazon, I am curious about them
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post #2110 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 11:15 AM
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I think alot of people will buy this projector and be very happy with it, but I have a had alot of projectors and seen what they can do (hd20, hd23, hd66, hd33, hd131, hd25-lv, panasonic ae7000, sony hw30es, hw55es).

How would you compare the performance of the hd131e vs. the Panasonic ae7000? Of course both are in different price leagues, but the panasonic is an older generation I think (?). I ask because I have a panasonic AE4000 and was wondering if changing to the hd131xe (looking for the 3D feature) would represent a downgrade in picture quality?

I'd appreciate a lot your input. Thanks in advance.
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post #2111 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 11:19 AM
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Do you guys really notice any/much difference with going from Eco to Bright mode? Maybe because I customized settings, but I really don't see much difference at all. Its not like going from Cinema to Vivid on a panel tv like I would have expected

It's minor. It's certainly not enough of a difference to justify the reduction in bulb life (isn't it basically cut in half?)

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post #2112 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernesto Sanchez View Post

How would you compare the performance of the hd131e vs. the Panasonic ae7000? Of course both are in different price leagues, but the panasonic is an older generation I think (?). I ask because I have a panasonic AE4000 and was wondering if changing to the hd131xe (looking for the 3D feature) would represent a downgrade in picture quality?

I'd appreciate a lot your input. Thanks in advance.

the ae7000u I had was GREAT, it had great alignment and a nice bright picture..as far as 2d picture quality I dont think you will be disapointed. sad to say 3d to me was a bust with this projector...I was not happy with it at all, also gaming to me was laggy compared to the dlp. I guess what I am saying is what is important to you? if you are going after 3d I think you can do better, if you are after a great 2d picture, then the ae7000 is a great choice! tell me what you do on your projector and I can help no problem, and I am sure others will chime in as well! But if 3D is important you can read through the ae7000 thread and see people that couldnt wait to get a ae8000 because of the problems they had.
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post #2113 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 11:31 AM
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post #2114 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 11:35 AM
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Anyone who is having trouble with good color settings should try the following calibration:

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post #2115 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 11:42 AM
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Anyone who is having trouble with good color settings should try the following calibration:


Wonder what the lumen output is on that, the reason I ask is because alot of people got this thinking it was a good living room projector and with a lot of the settings I see it really lowers the lumens (example BC at 1), just curious that is all.
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post #2116 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 11:49 AM
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I would say from experience, I would not consider those settings to be good with ambient light.
My brightness is at 0 with no BC and with lights on on each side of a 40-45ft room it washes it out fairly decently. It looks great in pure darkness with a dark colored room. But I would not want to watch on those settings with ambient light. I bumped to bright mode and still with the lights on, it was not anywhere as good as with the lights totally off.


What is the source of these settings?

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post #2117 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 11:49 AM
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I wish I could find the review site that has this calibration posted. I found it a few days ago on a European site and the reviewer used quite a few measurements with various equipment to come to this calibration. The end result was pretty impressive according to him. I personally have not used this yet as I'm still waiting for my pj.
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post #2118 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 01:55 PM
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Hello to everybody!

 

I am the owner of an HD131xe since 2 months already and I should say that I was only partly happy with the colour accuracy of this projector, although I tried almost all the existing combinations of the settings (except the RGBCYM settings).

 

However, I have just used the above settings and I must say that I am (at least initially) impressed! The sky looks real, red colour looks real and even the contrast looks better! And despite the low BC, the colours do not look "washed out" but they are enjoyable.

 

I have though still a doubt on the Dynamic Black "off" proposal. In the review they definitely reject its use, however previous posts on this thread seem to think the opposite.

 

Any opinions on this?

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post #2119 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 02:14 PM
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A few things about the settings:

 

Brightness 0 is "correct". Anything lower crushes blacks, anything higher washes out blacks. You should raise it only if you have a ton of ambient light.  In a dark room, it should be zero every time. 

 

Likewise, contrast -3 is "correct". Contrast zero has some white clipping, you have to drop it to -3 to make it all the way to 235. 235-255 seems to be completely lost no matter what you do. But in most cases, the minor amount of clipping isn't noticeable, and you gain a fair bit of usable contrast by raising the level of the vast majority of pixels. I personally have mine set to -3, but if it was set to 0, you probably wouldn't notice the clipping unless you saw them side by side.

 

According to the lagom.nl sharpness test: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php, sharpness 9 is actually the correct setting.  There's some softening at setting 8, as evidenced by some darkened square.  But it's so mild I doubt anyone could possibly tell the difference on real content.

 

And most annoyingly: even though they share settings, RGB and YUV have completely different greyscale tracking.  Calibrate in YUV, and RGB is going to be too blue. Calibrate it in RGB, and YUV is too red. Most bluray content is going to be YUV, but game consoles and PCs are going to output in RGB by default, and you can't always change that. A console might display some streaming video in RGB, or YUV...who knows. They should be the same, I'm not sure why it's being processed differently. You'll know youre displaying RGB if the color and tint controls arent available.    


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post #2120 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 05:16 PM
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Can anyone explain what brilliantcolor actually does? It considerably increases the lumen output of white without clipping, and without raising the black level. But there has to be a catch. How is it achieving this, and what's the compromise? Other than the greyscale tracking....I feel like there's more to it, but I just can't place my finger on it.

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post #2121 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 06:57 PM
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Good news, I found the site that has a great in depth review of this projector. It might also help explain how the brilliant color works.

http://www.audiovideohd.fr/tests/355-Optoma-HD131x-0.html

You will have to use google translate.
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post #2122 of 2777 Old 02-05-2014, 08:52 PM
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Well, I did some trial and error with test patterns, and the way it functions seems relatively simple - it increases the brightness of the white component only. You can throw up a set of color bars and see for yourself - the whites increase dramatically, the primaries stay the same. On artificial color bars, it's 100% an aberration. But on real content, it has the effect of increasing overall perceived contrast, because it effects the component of every pixel that isn't a pure 100% saturated primary. It's as if the projector runs out of color, but has plenty of lumens to spare, and BC unleashes that extra potential at the expense of accuracy. It's a dirty hack, but an effective one.

Still, now that I understand what it's doing, I'm kind of torn on using it. Turning it off gives you a more accurate, but very dull picture. The black level/contrast is fine in bright scenes, but pretty awful in dark scenes.

Turning it up to 5 or so gives much, much better contrast in scenes that aren't heavily colored, and lets me get away with a stronger ND filter for much better blacks. Dark scenes go from ugly to acceptable.

I guess what I really want in the end is a better projector. But nobody does 3D and gaming as well as optoma, and they don't have a model with better contrast performance....so I guess I've gotta live with it's limitations.

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post #2123 of 2777 Old 02-06-2014, 02:32 AM
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Oh please god someone help me mount the mustang low profile universal mount to my projecter. Been trying to figure it out for like three days and still have made 0 progress.

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post #2124 of 2777 Old 02-06-2014, 07:24 AM
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Oh please god someone help me mount the mustang low profile universal mount to my projecter. Been trying to figure it out for like three days and still have made 0 progress.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrtURIUbRAc&feature=youtu.be

Source: http://mustangav.com/MV-PROJSP-FLAT.htm (Their website)

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post #2125 of 2777 Old 02-06-2014, 07:48 AM
 
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Oh please god someone help me mount the mustang low profile universal mount to my projecter. Been trying to figure it out for like three days and still have made 0 progress.

I hope PM's link helps you.

Here is a link to a mount that is made to fit the mounting holes on the hd131xe. I think it is a very good mount. Some may not like the fact that there is plastic in the mount, like the projector itself. I think it is more than strong enough for the task. (It is the same mount that fits my HD70 and that I have used for about 7 years.)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BRQ900C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1391701174&sr=8-1

And you could return the mount that is a problem, or whatever you want to do. Right now you need to get on with the reason for having the hd131xe.
Perhaps you could take pictures of everything and describe in detail what you are having problems with. Someone might see a solution.

Good luck.
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post #2126 of 2777 Old 02-06-2014, 07:52 AM
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Ok I will try this again. I went and called them a couple days ago and I sent them to the email that showed the original offer, but now it has promotional offer canceled on it. When did you chat with the Amazon person?

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post #2127 of 2777 Old 02-06-2014, 07:59 AM
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I placed my order on Monday evening this week and chafed with them a few hours after I had ordered.
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post #2128 of 2777 Old 02-06-2014, 08:20 AM
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I placed my order on Monday evening this week and chafed with them a few hours after I had ordered.


Did you go on Amazon and order something to see if you got the $50? The only way you can see it is if you put in an order, or at least make like you are going to with all but the last checkout.

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post #2129 of 2777 Old 02-06-2014, 08:35 AM
 
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Did you go on Amazon and order something to see if you got the $50? The only way you can see it is if you put in an order, or at least make like you are going to with all but the last checkout.
Several months ago I bought my Hd131xe at Amazon. They had the $50 credit in place. The $50 could be used to buy Amazon handled products. The $50 did not show up anywhere that I could find in my paperwork. I called them. I was told that the $50 credit would not show up until the projector had been delivered.
And indeed that is the way it happened. On the day of delivery I put some items into my cart and noticed that when I went to pay for them there was an option to use $50 in Amazon credit to be applied to the purchase. And the amount was reduced by the amount of my purchase.

I never saw any notation anywhere on my account of the $50 credit until it showed up in my cart purchase. I kept the chat conversation in case I needed it later.
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post #2130 of 2777 Old 02-06-2014, 09:20 AM
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Several months ago I bought my Hd131xe at Amazon. They had the $50 credit in place. The $50 could be used to buy Amazon handled products. The $50 did not show up anywhere that I could find in my paperwork. I called them. I was told that the $50 credit would not show up until the projector had been delivered.
And indeed that is the way it happened. On the day of delivery I put some items into my cart and noticed that when I went to pay for them there was an option to use $50 in Amazon credit to be applied to the purchase. And the amount was reduced by the amount of my purchase.

I never saw any notation anywhere on my account of the $50 credit until it showed up in my cart purchase. I kept the chat conversation in case I needed it later.

You are right, I just tried it and I guess it won't show until the final pay button is hit. I couldn't get it to show in the cart, so you don't really know if you get it until you pay. That is kind of crappy. I was supposed to get it the day after I ordered according to someone I talked to, but I never got the email saying so. I didn't see anything, so when I tried again, 2 weeks later I was told it was too late. But yet the other guy got his a couple days ago. Some thing isn't right in their promo dept.. It might depend who you talk to, I got $20 instead. Sort of a consolation prize.

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