Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 79 - AVS Forum
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post #2341 of 2882 Old 02-19-2014, 04:59 PM
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Watched Serenity and From Dusk To Dawn blurays last night. I think the problem people are complaining about being too much red is not really true. There is a difference between videos shot under fluorescent lights and ones shot outside. The faces definitely look a little red on the indoor shots but when they step outside the color looks perfect. Could probably tweak the red down a little but you really should wait till you have 50 hours or so on the bulb before you start bothering tweaking the settings.
Got to say the picture is very good. I think about the only thing I'll need to tweak on mine is to adjust the sharpness a little bit. And the other thing that people were complaining about was the fan noise. I have mine set on eco mode and its way quieter than the Infocus IN72. Just my breathing covers the sound the fan makes. So all in all this dose seem to be a pretty decent PJ especially for $719. Now we'll see if the bulb lasts.
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post #2342 of 2882 Old 02-19-2014, 05:18 PM
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I'm looking at a 130" wide screen not diagonal.

Come see my Livin' the Dream build!

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post #2343 of 2882 Old 02-20-2014, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

I'm looking at a 130" wide screen not diagonal.
You should be ok then.
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post #2344 of 2882 Old 02-21-2014, 12:19 PM
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so I have gone quiet, and its mostly because of work, but I want to say I am very happy with this projector. Once I got the focus issue straightened out (again, should have only had it replaced once, but I didnt, my bad) anyways, this thing has performed GREATLY this week, and even with ambient light on looks great in eco mode, VERY happy with this projector!
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post #2345 of 2882 Old 02-21-2014, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by fxrh View Post

I have owned an Optoma HD25-LV for about three months now. I am surprised that more folks have not discussed the strong yellowish cast to the 3D picture. It is not all that noticeable in a color movie but is extremely obvious in a black-and-white 3D movie like CREATURE FROM THE BLACK LAGOON. Using this movie, I have made adjustments to the color settings in order to minimize the yellow. Three questions: 1) Has anyone else noticed this? 2) Does this show up on the other Optoma projectors as the default color setting as well? 3) Are there other users who have minimized or eliminated this via calibration? I freely admit that I didn't calibrate the color settings but simply eyeballed the picture to adjust them to my liking. Now, there's a huge difference when I alternate between the 3D and the User settings, with the User settings resulting in a display that looks black-and-white to me. As I said, I would have expected more discussion about this...

I've only run across one comment about the yellowish cast that I mentioned in the post above, and it was on a different thread. I'm still surprised to hear so little on this subject.

Here are the settings that work best for me. I use RF glasses (Optoma ZF2100), so I can't vouch for those with different glasses. I am also simply assuming that the default settings on recent Optomas are the same or very similar.

Go to the 3D (default) mode and change the following color settings:

Red no change
Green no change
Blue from 0, 0, 0 to 0, 0, 25
White from 0, 0, 0 to -16, -16, 25
Cyan no change
Magenta no change
Yellow no change
(All other 3D settings no change)

The 3D default settings are automatically saved to the User settings. (Be sure the projector is displaying a 3D signal before making the above changes, otherwise they are associated with 2D mode.) This should get rid of the yellowish tint.

If you now alternate the projector mode between 3D and User on a black-and-white 3D movie such as CREATURE FROM THE BLACK LAGOON, you'll see a big difference. If you switch back and forth while watching a color 3D Blu-ray, the changes may not be noticeable in all scenes, but in black-and-white 3D the difference is very obvious. The default 3D mode settings will have a much stronger yellow tint than the User mode settings.
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post #2346 of 2882 Old 02-23-2014, 12:42 AM
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links for 3D glasses?

Assuming there is no way to use all three pairs of my viera panny shutterglasses. Hate to have to buy glasses.

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post #2347 of 2882 Old 02-24-2014, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by clark17 View Post

Well said...

@ Maconi I'm the only one with this problem, because of the user error. I will confirm this this weekend. I'm too busy with my kids to try it before... I have nothing but good things to say about Optoma, their customer service rocks. To fix the soft corner issue took a week. At the moment Optoma tech help me to find offset issue with my installation. I was happy HD65 user and I'm happy HD25e user. I wish I didn't jump the gun with my post about 'geometry issues'...

For peeps who sent their units to get focus issues sorted out, did you get your offset affected?

I posted my geometry issue after getting projector back with 4 corners working fine. From about 13' I had my projector with about 5" offset (top of the screen to the center of the lens). After putting projector on I had trapezoid like figure. I was advised by Optoma based on my setup I should have 9" offset, which I did.
I had to destroy a little extra base I had to build to get to 5" offset which work for my first HD25e I returned and second HD25e prior to RMA. So Optoma nicely agreed to RMA my PJ for the second time to check my geometry issues, they quickly turn around saying they could not reproduce the issue. I got projector back few day ago, and I reproduced the trapezoid shaped picture again (reversed since I was shooting from the floor). To my amaze I added to the box I had on the floor, another box to narrow the offset distance and now I'm getting perfectly rectangular picture HOWEVER at the offset of 0 (ZERO). Therefore it looks like by adjusting focus washer, the offset characteristics was lost. It wouldn't be a big deal if the projector wouldn't have to hanging so low now, with the offset of 0. At 5" my old config would be acceptable and with 9" would be even better....

Therefore I'm wondering if other people who got their soft corner issues sorted out were also affected by changed offset?

Other than this I love the projector... however If this cannot be sorted out I'm might be moving to another brand... that could satisfy my needs.

Thanks...
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post #2348 of 2882 Old 02-25-2014, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeclough24 View Post

links for 3D glasses?

Assuming there is no way to use all three pairs of my viera panny shutterglasses. Hate to have to buy glasses.

If they are the bluetooth ones you should be able to buy a bluetooth emitter with 3pin VESA plug, "Full HD 3D RF emitter" seems to be the thing to search for.

I am planning the same as girlfriend's father has 8 pairs for his Panasonic Plasma, don't know if it will work re 144hz v 120hz refresh as I haven't tried it but theoretically.
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post #2349 of 2882 Old 02-25-2014, 01:30 PM
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OK, well it looks like I have to buy all new 3D glasses for this PJ:mad:mad.gif

Which pairs do you guys suggest to go with?

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post #2350 of 2882 Old 02-25-2014, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreNewman View Post

If they are the bluetooth ones you should be able to buy a bluetooth emitter with 3pin VESA plug, "Full HD 3D RF emitter" seems to be the thing to search for.

I am planning the same as girlfriend's father has 8 pairs for his Panasonic Plasma, don't know if it will work re 144hz v 120hz refresh as I haven't tried it but theoretically.
Optoma does not adhere to the "Full HD 3D Glasses Initiative" as Samsung, Panasonic, Sony and Xpand do and you can't use other RF (or bluetooth) glasses with the HD131 or the HD25's. Only Optoma, VIP or Estar brand RF glasses will work along with their emitter.
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post #2351 of 2882 Old 02-26-2014, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry2 View Post

Optoma does not adhere to the "Full HD 3D Glasses Initiative" as Samsung, Panasonic, Sony and Xpand do and you can't use other RF (or bluetooth) glasses with the HD131 or the HD25's. Only Optoma, VIP or Estar brand RF glasses will work along with their emitter.

I know but they do adhere to the VESA 3pin standard. When I was researching this for myself someone was using a volfoni polariser for passive glasses with an Optoma HD33 via the 3pin vesa which suggests it's standard. I haven't tried it myself yet as I'm still waiting for the HD91 to be available but it might be worth a try for Mikeclough24 as he has the glasses and might be able to find a returnable emitter. should be the same for IR glasses and emitters are much more readily available for various IR coding systems but with a 3pin vesa connector.
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post #2352 of 2882 Old 02-26-2014, 12:40 AM
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these guys think theirs should work
http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Bluetooth-Glasses-Emitter-projectors/dp/B00C5XAP50/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393403599&sr=1-16&keywords=bluetooth+3d+emitter

And there one success story in the HD33 thread with an IR emitter, also one failure story.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1354360/new-optoma-hd33-hd3300-1080p-3d-projector-review/5280

The main issue is to be sure exactly what glasses Mike has already, yeah it might not work but it should.
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post #2353 of 2882 Old 02-26-2014, 03:20 AM
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post #2354 of 2882 Old 02-26-2014, 04:25 AM
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Ok, that's odd, are you sure? Two pairs are what I expected and probably the bluetooth ones that came with the TV, the other seems to be IR only, doesn't make sense.

I did a bit more reading and it seems like Terry2 has tried something similar and found that a lot of glasses don't do 144hz, so 60i/p 3D is ok 24p is not! I did wonder about that. It's a shame if it's the case as I have access to 10 pairs of Panasonic bluetooth glasses for big parties so was planning to avoid the Optoma glasses and go straight to bluetooth, making 12 pairs available for loans.

There's lots of 3D glasses compatibility threads on here and it seems terry2 is in most of them, sounds like he's been through a few combinations.
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post #2355 of 2882 Old 02-26-2014, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreNewman View Post

these guys think theirs should work
http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Bluetooth-Glasses-Emitter-projectors/dp/B00C5XAP50/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393403599&sr=1-16&keywords=bluetooth+3d+emitter

And there one success story in the HD33 thread with an IR emitter, also one failure story.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1354360/new-optoma-hd33-hd3300-1080p-3d-projector-review/5280

The main issue is to be sure exactly what glasses Mike has already, yeah it might not work but it should.
Yes, the projector uses a standard 3 pin vesa connector but the bluetooth emitter in your first link does not work. I know because I had one and after several days of working with a rep at 3DTV Corp I returned it. I tried the Xpand bluetooth emitter and glasses and they also will not work unless the source is 720p/60hz. I tried various other emitters including IR and same result. Where as most any of the 144hz DLP-Link glasses work you're pretty much screwed trying to use any other RF glasses/emitter but the Optoma, VIP or Estar. When Optoma went with the Bit Cauldron technology for 3D that severely limited what you can use for RF. I guess it's possible one of these other 3D companies have found a way to make their stuff work with the newer Optoma's but it's unlikely.
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post #2356 of 2882 Old 02-26-2014, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by terry2 View Post

Yes, the projector uses a standard 3 pin vesa connector but the bluetooth emitter in your first link does not work. I know because I had one and after several days of working with a rep at 3DTV Corp I returned it. I tried the Xpand bluetooth emitter and glasses and they also will not work unless the source is 720p/60hz. I tried various other emitters including IR and same result. Where as most any of the 144hz DLP-Link glasses work you're pretty much screwed trying to use any other RF glasses/emitter but the Optoma, VIP or Estar. When Optoma went with the Bit Cauldron technology for 3D that severely limited what you can use for RF. I guess it's possible one of these other 3D companies have found a way to make their stuff work with the newer Optoma's but it's unlikely.

Thanks, looks like you've been through the process I was expecting to wade into soon and saved Mike doing it too.

Usual lousy timing with the Full HD 3D glasses standard, standardised before 144hz became common! I always got the feeling that the Monster/Optoma RF system was better suited to the task than bluetooth just wanting to use the existing loan base of Panasonic glasses seemed a sensible thing to investigate.
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post #2357 of 2882 Old 02-26-2014, 01:24 PM
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Deciding between the true - depth firestorm dlp 3d glasses and the estar America glasses. Anybody try both of these?

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post #2358 of 2882 Old 02-28-2014, 12:43 PM
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If you currently have 3D glasses that max out at 120hz and you're not yet ready to purchase 144hz glasses, you can force the projector to display Blu-ray movies at 120hz instead of 144hz if you have either a home theater PC that supports Blu-ray or an Optoma 3D-XL box (or equivalent).

On the PC you would set the resolution to 1080P@60hz for 2D material or to 720P@60hz for 3D material. (1080P@60hz is not part of the 3D specification for HDMI 1.4a.) The projector displays 60hz input at 120hz.

Unfortunately, you can't do this trick by simply changing the output resolution setting on your standalone Blu-ray player. It requires computing muscle to do these source conversions.

I know that this trick works because I used my Optoma 3D-XL box (part of my previous 3D setup with a 720P Optoma HD66) to watch 3D Blu-rays on my Optoma HD25-LV while I was eagerly awaiting my new 144hz 3D glasses.

As you might guess, I would still encourage owners of this projector to upgrade to 144hz glasses when they can. The 144hz display reduces flicker, eliminates motion judder, and you won't take a resolution hit on 3D.

While I'm making recommendations, I'll add that I'm a convert to RF glasses over DLP-Link. I got a great deal on the Optoma ZF2100 glasses, but they're usually $75 or thereabouts, so you might want to go for the EStar ESG6000 glasses since they are less expensive. I hear that they are excellent (perhaps the same as the Optomas). The EStar RF emitter is also less costly than the Optoma emitter.
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post #2359 of 2882 Old 02-28-2014, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxrh View Post

While I'm making recommendations, I'll add that I'm a convert to RF glasses over DLP-Link. I got a great deal on the Optoma ZF2100 glasses, but they're usually $75 or thereabouts, so you might want to go for the EStar ESG6000 glasses since they are less expensive. I hear that they are excellent (perhaps the same as the Optomas). The EStar RF emitter is also less costly than the Optoma emitter.
As someone who has not purchased any 3D glasses, I'm very curious to know why you switched to RF glasses. Do you mind sharing why you made the switch?


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post #2360 of 2882 Old 02-28-2014, 02:17 PM
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Oh man it's been over a week and I haven't received projector back from optoma and the service center is only 45 minutes away. So sad.
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post #2361 of 2882 Old 02-28-2014, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by hyperactiveme View Post

Oh man it's been over a week and I haven't received projector back from optoma and the service center is only 45 minutes away. So sad.

shipping is normally quoted as 5-7 days each way from a shipping standpoint. Then labor time to fix it.
I would not expect it to be the norm for everyone to recieve back the same week

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post #2362 of 2882 Old 02-28-2014, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxrh View Post

If you currently have 3D glasses that max out at 120hz and you're not yet ready to purchase 144hz glasses, you can force the projector to display Blu-ray movies at 120hz instead of 144hz if you have either a home theater PC that supports Blu-ray or an Optoma 3D-XL box (or equivalent).

On the PC you would set the resolution to 1080P@60hz for 2D material or to 720P@60hz for 3D material. (1080P@60hz is not part of the 3D specification for HDMI 1.4a.) The projector displays 60hz input at 120hz.

Unfortunately, you can't do this trick by simply changing the output resolution setting on your standalone Blu-ray player. It requires computing muscle to do these source conversions.

I know that this trick works because I used my Optoma 3D-XL box (part of my previous 3D setup with a 720P Optoma HD66) to watch 3D Blu-rays on my Optoma HD25-LV while I was eagerly awaiting my new 144hz 3D glasses.

As you might guess, I would still encourage owners of this projector to upgrade to 144hz glasses when they can. The 144hz display reduces flicker, eliminates motion judder, and you won't take a resolution hit on 3D.

While I'm making recommendations, I'll add that I'm a convert to RF glasses over DLP-Link. I got a great deal on the Optoma ZF2100 glasses, but they're usually $75 or thereabouts, so you might want to go for the EStar ESG6000 glasses since they are less expensive. I hear that they are excellent (perhaps the same as the Optomas). The EStar RF emitter is also less costly than the Optoma emitter.

ok so what glasses do you recommend?

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post #2363 of 2882 Old 02-28-2014, 03:14 PM
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Last time I had it back in the same week. Just anxious is all.
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shipping is normally quoted as 5-7 days each way from a shipping standpoint. Then labor time to fix it.
I would not expect it to be the norm for everyone to recieve back the same week
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post #2364 of 2882 Old 02-28-2014, 05:19 PM
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As someone who has not purchased any 3D glasses, I'm very curious to know why you switched to RF glasses. Do you mind sharing why you made the switch?

I had read elsewhere that black levels, shadow detail, and contrast were better with RF glasses, and I agree. But the biggest reason why I prefer RF glasses is that they never lose sync. I had noticed long ago that there were scenes in some movies (TANGLED for one) where a sudden cut from a darker scene to a very bright scene would cause my old DLP-Link glasses to lose sync. There's even one brief scene in that Imax "Mummies" documentary that never synced up no matter how many times I played it. There are no sync problems whatsoever with RF glasses.

Another advantage, albeit a modest one, is that somehow the combination of the projector / emitter / glasses "knows" the left-eye right-eye cadence and always displays the image in the appropriate polarity. In other words, I have yet to switch the 3D sync invert option in order to eliminate "reverse 3D." I frequently had to do this with DLP-Link glasses, although it wasn't difficult to do so, and it was (usually) a one-time adjustment at the start of the movie. (Occasionally, if I would pause a movie and then play it, the cadence would be off again.)

Each one of these advantages is a modest one, but all together they add up to what is for me a "seamless" 3D experience.

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Originally Posted by Mikeclough24 
ok so what glasses do you recommend?

Either the Optoma ZF2100 glassess or the EStar ESG6000 glasses that I mentioned in my previous post. I can vouch for the quality and comfort of the Optoma glasses, but I can understand why someone would instead go with the EStars. Many have said that the EStars are (or almost are) identical to the Optomas, and the EStars are considerably cheaper.
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post #2365 of 2882 Old 03-03-2014, 09:44 AM
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Has anyone experienced much ghosting with this PJ? I seem to be getting some and I'm wondering if there is something I c can do to minimize it.

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post #2366 of 2882 Old 03-03-2014, 03:04 PM
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RMA just arrived today. Now I feel to lazy to put it up again. Hopefully it's fixed properly this time. Customer service is very good.
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post #2367 of 2882 Old 03-03-2014, 05:59 PM
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RMA just arrived today. Now I feel to lazy to put it up again. Hopefully it's fixed properly this time. Customer service is very good.

Top Notch service. Double check offset, my was totally screwed up after fixing focus issues. I'm currently getting direct swap with Optoma for a new one.
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post #2368 of 2882 Old 03-04-2014, 09:25 AM
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Has anyone upgraded their HD131xe to the HD25e firmware or the latest firmware? I got this projector today and wondering if its worth upgrading the firmware? what issues are addressed in the latest firmware?
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post #2369 of 2882 Old 03-04-2014, 10:32 AM
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Has anyone upgraded their HD131xe to the HD25e firmware or the latest firmware? I got this projector today and wondering if its worth upgrading the firmware? what issues are addressed in the latest firmware?

I am in the " if its not broke, dont fix it" crowd.
If you dont have any problems and dont know what it fixes, why bother?

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post #2370 of 2882 Old 03-04-2014, 10:40 AM
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I am in the " if its not broke, dont fix it" crowd.
If you dont have any problems and dont know what it fixes, why bother?
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I am in the " if its not broke, dont fix it" crowd.
If you dont have any problems and dont know what it fixes, why bother?
Yep, thats my attitude too. Mine is working perfect so why mess with it.
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Optoma Hd131xe Dlp Projector 3d
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