Optoma HD131Xe, HD (1080p), 2500 ANSI Lumens, 3D-Home Theater Projector - Sub $800 New Budget King? - Page 88 - AVS Forum
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post #2611 of 2941 Old 05-07-2014, 10:41 AM
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I have a question about using a Soundbar with the HD131xe and also Xbox 360.

Right now i have my HD131xe, Yamaha receiver and gaming headphones. One HDMI cable goes from the HD131xe's HDMI 1 input into the receiver's HDMI out. Another HDMI cable goes from the receiver's input into the Xbox 360. I have my headphones simply connected to the receiver's headphones input. If i want to use the PS3 or Wii U, i simply switch to another HDMI input on the receiver.

So my question is...if i buy this soundbar which either connects by HDMI or Optical, how do i set it up properly so it will work with the HD131xe and Xbox 360 together? Can i simply put one HDMI cable from the soundbar to the HD131xe's HDMI 2 input? Will the HD131xe's sound go through the soundbar that way? that way i'd only have to turn on the receiver to have my xbox 360 working as well.
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post #2612 of 2941 Old 05-07-2014, 11:01 AM
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I don't think so. Doesn't your receiver have another hdmi out or optical out?

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post #2613 of 2941 Old 05-07-2014, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post

I don't think so. Doesn't your receiver have another hdmi out or optical out?

All the HDMI outputs are occupied already. However, it does have plenty of optical outs. So basically i could connect one optical cable from the soundbar to the receiver and leave the HDMI as it is, and it should work? I don't need to switch the input of the receiver to optical for it to work?

I think i could also do this:

Connect the optical cable from soundbar to Xbox 360's optical out and leave the HDMI as it is. However....each time i want to use the PS3 or Wii U with the soundbar i need to remove the optical cable from the 360, not a huge hassle, but still.

As for the Wii u that only supports HDMI sound.....i guess i'd be out of luck to use that soundbar, right? Even if i go for a soundbar that does support HDMI...probably no way to HD131xe, soundbar and Wii U work together?
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post #2614 of 2941 Old 05-07-2014, 01:40 PM
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If you use optical out from the receiver to the soundbar, you shouldn't need to switch anything to have sound always coming from the soundbar no matter which source/player/game you're using. Every other way involves switching every time.
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Originally Posted by Moonwalker1982 View Post

All the HDMI outputs are occupied already. However, it does have plenty of optical outs. So basically i could connect one optical cable from the soundbar to the receiver and leave the HDMI as it is, and it should work? I don't need to switch the input of the receiver to optical?
Correct, that should be THE way to do it.

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post #2615 of 2941 Old 05-07-2014, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post

If you use optical out from the receiver to the soundbar, you shouldn't need to switch anything to have sound always coming from the soundbar no matter which source/player/game you're using. Every other way involves switching every time.
Correct, that should be THE way to do it.

Sounds good. This should work for the Wii U too then? Even though it only supports HDMI audio? I'll have my soundbar tomorrow and i will give it a shot. That should mean i can use my Microsoft Surface Pro with the soundbar too then, even though it does not have optical? I'll just connect my Surface via HDMI to the receiver so i get picture, and optical cable from soundbar to the receiver?
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post #2616 of 2941 Old 05-07-2014, 05:53 PM
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Yes. It should work out that every game/computer/player you hook up to your receivers inputs will be putting its sound through that receiver and into the soundbar, just like they are all putting their video through the receiver and into the projector.

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Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #2617 of 2941 Old 05-08-2014, 04:41 AM
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Do you guys use a lens cap with your HD131Xe ? If so, which one ? ... Or do you guys simply nott use a lens cap at all ?

I need to buy a lens cap for my HD131Xe ASAP, because apparently it was proving to be too expensive for Optoma to provide lens caps with their projectors .. rolleyes.gif
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post #2618 of 2941 Old 05-08-2014, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmadka View Post

Do you guys use a lens cap with your HD131Xe ? If so, which one ? ... Or do you guys simply nott use a lens cap at all ?

I need to buy a lens cap for my HD131Xe ASAP, because apparently it was proving to be too expensive for Optoma to provide lens caps with their projectors .. rolleyes.gif

I got one with mine but I can't tell you the last time I used it. With manual focus it's easy to unfocused to remove the cap.

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post #2619 of 2941 Old 05-08-2014, 10:31 AM
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I don't use a lens cap. I just keep an anti static cleaning rag handy to give it a wipe down once in a while.
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post #2620 of 2941 Old 05-09-2014, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Dropped my unit off at Optoma today to have the focus issue repaired. Asked for a lens cap upon its return. We'll see how that goes.

HTPC: Intel NUC (DC53427HYE) running OpenELEC/Win7 Dual Boot
Projector: Optoma HD131Xe
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR809
Screen: Elite Spectrum Electric 125"
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post #2621 of 2941 Old 05-09-2014, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Tom from Optoma states that the 131xe doesnt come with a lens cap in North America. But he said they will give me one once mine is repaired. Cool!

HTPC: Intel NUC (DC53427HYE) running OpenELEC/Win7 Dual Boot
Projector: Optoma HD131Xe
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR809
Screen: Elite Spectrum Electric 125"
Media Server: NAS4Free Core 2 Quad 2.40GHz
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post #2622 of 2941 Old 05-09-2014, 12:21 PM
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Is this the same focus issue the HD25e has? What steps with Optoma did you take to get them to fix it?

Infamous last words: "Hold my beer. Watch this!"
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post #2623 of 2941 Old 05-09-2014, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah same issue. Apparently its a bad run of DLP chips from Texas Instruments (according to what others say), and not optics.

Just go to optomausa.com>support>service/rma and fill out the form. You'll need these three things:

1. Model No.
2. Serial No.
3. Proof of purchase (I printed my Amazon invoice to PDF and sent that in).

They respond quickly. I happen to live near Optoma and asked to drop it off otherwise you'll have to ship it in yourself. 5-7 business days to repair it once recieved into their system.

HTPC: Intel NUC (DC53427HYE) running OpenELEC/Win7 Dual Boot
Projector: Optoma HD131Xe
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR809
Screen: Elite Spectrum Electric 125"
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post #2624 of 2941 Old 05-09-2014, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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"Focus Uniformity" is the official classification Optoma uses to track these cases/defects.

HTPC: Intel NUC (DC53427HYE) running OpenELEC/Win7 Dual Boot
Projector: Optoma HD131Xe
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR809
Screen: Elite Spectrum Electric 125"
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post #2625 of 2941 Old 05-09-2014, 04:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John0972 View Post

I liked how the image looked with bulb black level enhancement set to low, it does make starfields such as those at the beginning of Avatar or Star Wars look very good, i wanted to know why, i measured gamma with my meter, it was altering gamma, i had mine set for roughly 2.25 at 80 and 90 IRE, the low level black setting changed this to 1.6, the graphics mode does the exact same thing and also adds perceived pop to the image, unfortunately it's just plain wrong, it was also messing with the white balance although i could dial in acceptable settings, i might use that setting for very dark films.

Can someone who has a calibration meter give me some pointers on how to alter the saturation levels of the colors and get the hue and lightness correct at all the levels from 25% to 100% or as close as possible, so far i have failed miserably and i don't have a clue what i am doing wrong.

Maybe one of the advanced members of this forum might have such a meter, and some of them from time to time may pick up one of these lower cost projectors to see how far ahead/behind their high-end projectors are to these just to tinker around. But most of the owners of the HD131Xe that use it as their main display won't have such a meter. I reason that's why you haven't gotten a response from us in this thread. Since you have the I1 Display Pro version 3 with Chromapure, please keep us appraised of your final calibration settings once you worked it all out. It would be interesting to see how this performs with professional calibration tools and will be a real value for the rest of use owners.

Perhaps guitarman can help too. PM him.

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post #2626 of 2941 Old 05-10-2014, 06:08 PM
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Guys, I need some advice.

So I just watched my very first 3D Blu-ray on my new Optoma HD131Xe.

Although I thought the '3D' effect looked pretty decent, brightness seemed to be a major major issue for me ... Even on my 1.3 gain screen (Da-Lite Cinema Contour 1.3 Gain HD Progressive 119" 16:9 Fixed Frame), the picture seemed very dark to me .. It just didn't seem lively at all ... During the movie I tried several times to try and manually increase the brightness, but that just washed out all the colors .. increasing constrast or color didn't seem to really fix the issue, so I ended up reverting to the default '3D' mode ..

Is there any specific setting I need to do to solve the brightness issue ? Before buying this projector, I got a lot of recommendations for its 3D and its brightness, so I'm really expecting some positive comments here smile.gif

By the way, my throw distance is about 15 feet, and I'm using those VESA 3D glasses from EStar ..
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post #2627 of 2941 Old 05-10-2014, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmadka View Post

Guys, I need some advice.

So I just watched my very first 3D Blu-ray on my new Optoma HD131Xe.

Although I thought the '3D' effect looked pretty decent, brightness seemed to be a major major issue for me ... Even on my 1.3 gain screen (Da-Lite Cinema Contour 1.3 Gain HD Progressive 119" 16:9 Fixed Frame), the picture seemed very dark to me .. It just didn't seem lively at all ... During the movie I tried several times to try and manually increase the brightness, but that just washed out all the colors .. increasing constrast or color didn't seem to really fix the issue, so I ended up reverting to the default '3D' mode ..

Is there any specific setting I need to do to solve the brightness issue ? Before buying this projector, I got a lot of recommendations for its 3D and its brightness, so I'm really expecting some positive comments here smile.gif

By the way, my throw distance is about 15 feet, and I'm using those VESA 3D glasses from EStar ..
Besides possible glasses settings, you might try (if possible) switching the Optoma's gamma over to VIDEO mode, which has the brightest low-end and will increase perceived brightness quite a lot if you aren't already using it.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #2628 of 2941 Old 05-11-2014, 04:36 PM
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I have a question....

For the most part i am very happy with this projector and if i have to name one downside to this, but that probably goes for most projectors in this price range....it's that the black levels could be better. I was watching a movie the other day on Netflix and it was nighttime, curtains all closed, my walls are all painted dark purple and no other light sources in the room, but the black levels just didn't look too hot. The only thing i still need is a screen and soon i will have a Elite screen here. Is the screen going to improve black levels or will it mostly improve the overal picture quality? (in terms of how crisp it looks..already looks pretty damn crisp in games and movies.)

It will be this screen

http://www.beamercenter.nl/product/409957/category-73087-projectieschermen/elite-screens-m106xwh-243-x-159-9-16-9.html?sort-order&
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post #2629 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmadka View Post

Guys, I need some advice.

So I just watched my very first 3D Blu-ray on my new Optoma HD131Xe.

Although I thought the '3D' effect looked pretty decent, brightness seemed to be a major major issue for me ... Even on my 1.3 gain screen (Da-Lite Cinema Contour 1.3 Gain HD Progressive 119" 16:9 Fixed Frame), the picture seemed very dark to me .. It just didn't seem lively at all ... During the movie I tried several times to try and manually increase the brightness, but that just washed out all the colors .. increasing constrast or color didn't seem to really fix the issue, so I ended up reverting to the default '3D' mode ..

Is there any specific setting I need to do to solve the brightness issue ? Before buying this projector, I got a lot of recommendations for its 3D and its brightness, so I'm really expecting some positive comments here smile.gif

By the way, my throw distance is about 15 feet, and I'm using those VESA 3D glasses from EStar ..

I also have the same glasses. You could try to set your lamp mode to bright it helps a little and try to play with your settings a bit more. But yes, 3d movies will always look darker and lack the vibrancy of 2d.
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post #2630 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonwalker1982 View Post

I have a question....

For the most part i am very happy with this projector and if i have to name one downside to this, but that probably goes for most projectors in this price range....it's that the black levels could be better. I was watching a movie the other day on Netflix and it was nighttime, curtains all closed, my walls are all painted dark purple and no other light sources in the room, but the black levels just didn't look too hot. The only thing i still need is a screen and soon i will have a Elite screen here. Is the screen going to improve black levels or will it mostly improve the overal picture quality? (in terms of how crisp it looks..already looks pretty damn crisp in games and movies.)

It will be this screen

http://www.beamercenter.nl/product/409957/category-73087-projectieschermen/elite-screens-m106xwh-243-x-159-9-16-9.html?sort-order&

I am pretty happy with the black levels of this projector, especially at this pricepoint. Blu-ray movies and PS4 look great in my setup. Yes a proper screen would certainly improve your projectors black levels. Also, don't set brightness too high on your settings as it destroys black levels.
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post #2631 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nosdavid View Post

I am pretty happy with the black levels of this projector, especially at this pricepoint. Blu-ray movies and PS4 look great in my setup. Yes a proper screen would certainly improve your projectors black levels. Also, don't set brightness too high on your settings as it destroys black levels.

I have brightness at 0, contrast at 0, gamma at graphic, brilliantcolor at 3, and dynamic black at high. Cause even though it doesnt drastically improve the blacks, it still seems the best at high. I still need my blackout curtains though, cause right now i have cardboard box pieces blocking the lighting from these way too thin curtains. So those curtains and Elite screen surely will help.
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post #2632 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 01:43 PM
 
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These are my setting as calibrated using my meter and software, be aware small differences between each model, the screen and the room will mean these settings will not work on anyone else's projector but they might get you in the ballpark, i decided to calibrate with Dynamic black set to low since it adds much to darker scenes, especially for space or horror films, you can get more perfect calibration by setting Dynamic Black to off but the settings below should only be used when black level is set to on and low.

 

Settings with Dynamic Black set to On and Low, Brilliant Color set to 1. Bulb set to High.

 

I always set to Reference and then Gamma to Film, this gives better greyscale performance according to the meter, this shows as User when you start changing settings, make sure format is set to Native and zoom and keystone are at 0.

 

Brightness 0 

Contrast -9

Sharpness 9

Color 8

Tint 0

 

Advanced Color Menu

 

White R -11

White G +4

White B -9

 

Red Hue - 12

Red Saturation -3

Red Gain -13

 

Green Hue 27

Green Saturation 12

Green Gain 7

 

Blue Hue 13

Blue Saturation -9

Blue Gain -35

 

Yellow Hue 37

Yellow Saturation -11

Yellow Gain 17

 

Cyan Hue -26

Cyan Saturation 0

Cyan Gain 9

 

Magenta Hue 22

Magenta Saturation -8

Magenta Gain -15

 

 

3D settings with Dynamic Black set to low and Brilliant Color set to 1 using Reference and Film Gamma, again this shows as User when you change things, you need to make sure it's in 3D mode or it will alter your 2D settings. Bulb set to High.

 

Brightness +1

Contrast -7

Sharpness 9

Color -4

Tint 0

 

Advanced Color Menu

 

White R -8

White G 0

White B 10

 

Red Hue -15

Red Saturation -2

Red Gain 2 -13

 

Green Hue 25

Green Saturation 0

Green Gain 2

 

Blue Hue 24

Blue Saturation 5

Blue Gain -28

 

Yellow Hue 34

Yellow Saturation -16

Yellow Gain 5

 

Cyan Hue 18

Cyan Saturation -4

Cyan Gain 7

 

Magenta Hue -18

Magenta Saturation -1

Magenta Gain -8

 

 

The above settings will likely not work for anyone and could make your image worse, screen calibration tends to work only for the screen, the room and the projector you are using at the time, i give the readings only for entertainment purposes and as a possible starting guide for some people to use.

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post #2633 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 04:29 PM
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Interesting. Dynamic black at low is actually better for darker scenes? I always assumed this would improve blacks levels, so setting it at high would be best. But it's not? I'll go try it out tomorrow with a dark game or movie. I could try Alan Wake or Dead Space for gaming and for movies i could pick The Dark Knight.
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post #2634 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 04:36 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonwalker1982 View Post

Interesting. Dynamic black at low is actually better for darker scenes? I always assumed this would improve blacks levels, so setting it at high would be best. But it's not? I'll go try it out tomorrow with a dark game or movie. I could try Alan Wake or Dead Space for gaming and for movies i could pick The Dark Knight.

 

I tested with it set to low and high using various movies with dark scenes, i found the opening scenes from Avatar great for 2D and 3D because the starfields help a lot, i also used films like The Descent, Alien, Armageddon, the "fixed" French version of Silent Hill and i saw a big difference when i switched Dynamic Black off but i saw no difference between high and low, so i chose low and then calibrated using Chromapure software, a laptop and the meter, i am happy with the results. The major problem with this projector is Brilliant Color, it adds noise into the image and should be set to 1.

 

I think starfields are great for testing too, the opening five minutes of Avatar has some nice inky black starfields.

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post #2635 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 04:45 PM
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Ok that's good to know. I believe i have brilliant color on 3 or 5, seemed best for many games and of all things, i play games the most. I didn't notice noise though. But maybe it's less easy to notice in games, that could be the case. I'll go experiment a little tomorrow.
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post #2636 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 05:06 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonwalker1982 View Post

Ok that's good to know. I believe i have brilliant color on 3 or 5, seemed best for many games and of all things, i play games the most. I didn't notice noise though. But maybe it's less easy to notice in games, that could be the case. I'll go experiment a little tomorrow.

 

A good test disc if you have it is Star Trek Into Darkness, the scene near the beginning of the film when Spock is trapped in the volcano, Kirk and McCoy and Uhura have just entered the bridge of the Enterprise, Uhura is talking, view that scene with brilliant Color on 1 and Brilliant Color on anything else and note the walls on the right side behind her, with it turned up they become very noisy, turned down to 1 they look great, it might well be that the problem doesn't show up as much in video games, with Brilliant Color the problem tends to show up on bright scenes.

 

I have tested this issue with Dynamic Black off and on, it makes no difference, Brilliant Color is adding noise into the image.

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post #2637 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 06:54 PM
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Optoma has posted a new firmware to fix the LBX "over-stretch" issue I discussed below. It's still called C04 when I grabbed the file, but I'm not sure what they'll call it on the website. However, it will have a date of January 2014 (instead of September 2013). I really wouldn't fuss with a firmware update unless you're using an anamorphic lens and using the LBX feature. I've been told this firmware ONLY addresses that issue. Then again, I'm very comfortable with doing firmware updates and have never had a problem on any device. Anyway, basically this issue was fixed last year, but apparently not updated to the USA website.... even though they still posted a new file called C04. So basically what my conversations led to is finding out that they needed to properly post the most recent firmware that included the LBX fix. This is why one poster (not sure if here or another forum) mentioned his LBX issue was fixed months ago after downloaded the firmware... because he was in Europe and downloading it from the site. Anyway.. hopefully this is helpful to quite a few people. Original post on issue below:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Tambling View Post

CIH - Constant Height Projection on the HD131xe using LBX or Letterbox mode and an anamorphic lens, my report.

It would appear the HD131xe is an outstanding budget DLP projector. Coming from Sharp LCD flat screen, I'm more than impressed. Obviously, I'm not going to be watching much more than a ghosted image on a bright day because I have skylights and very little light control (although I'm working on that for some game day viewing, but my main use for this projector was always movies at night... although it could be anything at night, you gamers, etc...).

HOWEVER, on a CIH setup, using a 2.35 horizontal expansion HE lens (in this case the Panamorph UH480), I was hoping the LBX (letterbox) feature on the HD131xe would vertically stretch JUST the black bars off the screen, then the lens expand it back to correct proportions (with some margin of error expected due to small variances in 2.35-2.4:1, even though I still do not know what to believe if this is just nomenclature and not an actual difference in aspect ratio). Anyway, there have been reported issues and I absolutely can report that it is too aggressive with its vertical stretch. In LBX mode with the correct lens, you get top and bottom cropping. Most people wishing to do constant height (CIH), this is unacceptable. I still think the projector is a good deal, but it is unfortunate I chose this projector for a CIH setup, this function is marketed as a feature, and works poorly for that purpose.

I did just try and firmware update from the Optoma USA website, going from 03 firmware that came with the projector to 04 firmware which was from this last September (2013). On another forum where they were arguing the firmware difference between the HD25e and the HD131xe, someone mentioned this CIH problem and that it was resolved by a firmware update. Well, it is not. Tops of people's heads are still chopped off along with bottom of screen. There are no manual adjustments for this, other than you can vertically and horizontally pan using one of the settings, so you can see how much image you're losing.

So very disappointed. I'm also disappointed that Optoma didn't respond to my first two support inquiries ever from their company (being a new customer). Not a very good start, but still a lot of bang for the buck on it's most standard projection capability.
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post #2638 of 2941 Old 05-12-2014, 09:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Moonwalker,

Netflix streaming video is highly compressed and when you blow up an image that big, you will quickly notice where those lossy bits have gone to. Blu ray playback of the same movies will yield much better results but thats not always feasible. One user setting isnt sufficient to render media from the sources available for us today. That's why I felt that it is crippling for Optoma to only provide one user setting, With that said....

Brett,

Since you were so successful in getting an FW fix for the anamorphic lens issue, how about starting a new campaign to get us owners a revamped less clunky UI that has more than one user setting smile.gif

HTPC: Intel NUC (DC53427HYE) running OpenELEC/Win7 Dual Boot
Projector: Optoma HD131Xe
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR809
Screen: Elite Spectrum Electric 125"
Media Server: NAS4Free Core 2 Quad 2.40GHz
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post #2639 of 2941 Old 05-13-2014, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niggenz View Post

Moonwalker,

Netflix streaming video is highly compressed and when you blow up an image that big, you will quickly notice where those lossy bits have gone to. Blu ray playback of the same movies will yield much better results but thats not always feasible. One user setting isnt sufficient to render media from the sources available for us today. That's why I felt that it is crippling for Optoma to only provide one user setting, With that said....

Brett,

Since you were so successful in getting an FW fix for the anamorphic lens issue, how about starting a new campaign to get us owners a revamped less clunky UI that has more than one user setting smile.gif

Good point. One of these days i should fire up my LOTR Trilogy on Blu Ray to see how that looks. For gaming it looks good, but there is no telling if that will be good for movies too.

Anyway, i may have a problem.

A week ago i finally mounted the projector. It's like 4 meters away from the wall where i will be mounting a screen. The screen that i am probably gonna get is 104 inch. If i look in the Optoma manual and i check page 22. it says 4,0 at 'tele' for a 100 inch screen. Basically it seems my projector is slightly too close to the wall for a 104 inch screen. How problematic can this get when i buy that screen and mount it?
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post #2640 of 2941 Old 05-14-2014, 12:57 PM
 
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I calibrated a different mode using my meter and software today, i think it might work great for some of you so will supply the details.

 

If you have a 100 inch screen and it's a 1.0 gain and your walls, ceiling and floors are dark these settings may work, especially if your bulb is just over a hundred hours in age, i'm getting around 18.5 ft lamberts with the settings below, i like the image that bright, some people may not.

 

The Gamma for this one has been changed to Graphics, this gives a little more pop for 3D, you may lose a hair or two shadow detail, so if that's important then check out my other settings for 3D above where i used the Film setting for Gamma, that one has a BT1886 type mode where you get around 2.35 at the top end and 2.1 at the bottom end.

 

3D Calibrated Settings - Do Not Use For 2D.

 

Brightness 3

Contrast -8

Sharpness 9

Gamma - Graphic

Dynamic Black Low

Brilliant Color 1

Color Temperature Warm

 

Advanced Color Menu Settings

 

White Red -13

White Green 1

White Blue 9

 

Red Hue -14

Red Saturation -2

Red Gain - -11

 

Green Hue 27

Green Saturation 0

Green Gain 2

 

Blue Hue 17

Blue Saturation -4

Blue Gain -29

 

Yellow Hue 36

Yellow Saturation -16

Yellow Gain 3

 

Cyan Hue 14

Cyan Saturation 0

Cyan Gain 4

 

Magenta Hue -18

Magenta Saturation -3

Magenta Gain -7

 

I also did some testing of the contrast ratio of this projector, i wouldn't say it's good but it looks better to me than the figures indicate, i can live with it.

 

2D contrast with Gamma set to Film and Brilliant Color at 1 and bulb at bright with all other settings as post 2632 in this thread.

 

Dynamic Black Off - 486:1   With Brilliant Color on 5 - 704:1   With Brilliant Color on 10 - 959:1

Dynamic Black Low - 1222:1  With Brilliant Color on 5 - 1721:1   With Brilliant Color on 10 - 2355:1

Dynamic Black High - 1255:1  With Brilliant Color on High - 1776:1   With Brilliant Color on 10 - 2421:1

 

Note that the more Brilliant Color is enabled the more green is added to the image, i measured the green being added to the white balance.

 

I also think the native contrast figures may be wrong, they were measured directly off the screen, the projectors native contrast is probably 1400:1 and maybe 3000:1 to 3500:1 with Dynamic Black on low, next time i'll measure directly from the lens.

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