Something I should note that I forgot: The old factory bulb got so hot that it bent the plastic near it, so heat may have damaged something else. Just not sure what yet.
Originally Posted by airscapes
Let me guess bought the cheapest lamp you could find rather than buying an OEM Optoma lamp... If so, that is your problem!
No, It's an oem Optoma lamp.
Originally Posted by airscapes
OMG I just looked at the video.. you should never run a projector with the cover off for any lenght of time. The lamp get about as hot as the sun within seconds and many projectors need the lid on to cool properly. Is that the issue here, probably not since it works correctly with the original lamp.
It's fine. It's also cooled with an extra fan wired to a portable psu while open to test for temperature changes. I'm familiar with component level repairs, just not projectors. (yet
Originally Posted by Mr.G
Your projector is wonky with new bulb. You put old bulb back in and the projector works fine. You put new bulb back in and it's wonky again.
The new bulb seems to affecting the projector circuitry. Is it an OEM bulb with generic housing? Can a new lamp assembly be defective? Not common but it can happen.
Contact the seller and tell him the problems you are having. What does he suggest?
Could the color wheel be the problem? Anything is possible.
Sound logic, however the resistance is the same on both bulbs.
What I've found is that the new bulb reaches operating temp much quicker. Also because of the brightness of the new bulb, the temperature gets a lot hotter than the old bulb.
This is the only significant difference I can find. No bad caps either (sigh, that would have been too
easy wouldn't it have been? I need to measure the ramp up with an oscope, but mine is out of now.)
The housing and bulb are both OEM.
But to play the devils advocate, the housing being oem or not wouldn't matter one bit. It's not even mechanical let alone electrical. It's some plastic and metal that the bulb snaps into. Anyway, it doesn't matter what housing I use. I measured both to see that they were identical and I swapped the new bulb to the old housing just for ****s and giggles. All it does is what it's supposed to - Holds the bulb and plug in place
I contacted the seller. He guarantees the bulb is good and doubts it's a problem with the bulb. He'll send me a new one when he receives this one back. I'm inclined to agree with him after all my testing.
- I'm going to double check the two main caps on the power board and the inverter board again just to be sure I didn't miss anything.
- At this point I'm thinking:
- Bad bulb - Would have to be bad by being out of manufacturer spec
- Bad cap(s) - Didn't see any but plan to double check. Would cause the draw of the new bulb to underload everything else, including the wheel which would then be skipping.
- Bad color wheel - Only think I can think of is heat damage and the color wheel can't keep up with the power draw of the new bulb.
- Bad Thermal Temperature sensor - Not even sure where this guy is on this particular projector. (I've seen it in others)
- Bad Color wheel sync board - This little board is really close to the light, so I wonder if heat messed up anything here too. Tested continuity on the whole thing and it works, but of course I don't have diagrams for all the gates and such on the board.
Hopefully someone familiar with replacing parts in these can chime in
[Edited to be clearer and leave out any irritations]