Help! Crazy psychedelic colors with brand new bulb in optoma hd66! [Video included] - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-17-2013, 08:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Hopefully some people with xp replacing components can chime in with their experience.

Update: Found another video doing the same thing in comments.

I replaced the original lamp, which was only putting out 300 lumens.

The new lamp does fine at first, but as the bulb's brightness ramps up to full, the color wheel speeds up and starts producing crazy colors!

It's important to note that when I put the original bulb back in, the projector works fine, just very dim.

Lastly, when the thing finally shuts down (not pictured) it shows the 'lamp fault' diag lights.

I'm not sure if this is a problem with the wheel, the fan, or some temperature sensor I'm not seeing.

Also, not that this projector has always taken about 60 seconds for the fan to kick on. Even when I put the old bulb back in it does this:
  • Optoma screen
  • Light ramps up to higher brightness
  • Fan kicks on
  • evenything is gravy

Except with the new bulb, the light brightness ramps up, then the color wheel goes nuts, and the projector eventually shuts off in about 2 minutes.

Is this just a bad color wheel?

Also, why does the color wheel start going faster when the light ramps up?

I'm trying not to drop too much more money into this.
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-18-2013, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willpower102 View Post


I replaced the original lamp, which was only putting out 300 lumens.

The new lamp does fine at first, but as the bulb's brightness ramps up to full, the color wheel speeds up and starts producing crazy colors!

It's important to note that when I put the original bulb back in, the projector works fine, just very dim.

Lastly, when the thing finally shuts down (not pictured) it shows the 'lamp fault' diag lights.

I'm not sure if this is a problem with the wheel, the fan, or some temperature sensor I'm not seeing.

Also, not that this projector has always taken about 60 seconds for the fan to kick on. Even when I put the old bulb back in it does this:
  • Optoma screen
  • Light ramps up to higher brightness
  • Fan kicks on
  • evenything is gravy

Except with the new bulb, the light brightness ramps up, then the color wheel goes nuts, and the projector eventually shuts off in about 2 minutes.

Is this just a bad color wheel?

Also, why does the color wheel start going faster when the light ramps up?

I'm trying not to drop too much more money into this.

It's obvious the projector doesn't like the new bulb you purchased. Where you did you buy it?

BTW your video does not work.

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post #3 of 10 Old 09-18-2013, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, video works now.

How is it obvious that it's the bulb and not the color wheel?

The bulb is a brand new optoma bulb and housing through a reputable ebay seller in cupertino cali who sells only original equipment. My hd70 bulb from him worked great. They even come with the little optoma certified sticker and contact info. It's the exact same as my original one in every way.

I'm really tempted to buy a color wheel with the way this one is behaving unless you guys can help me understand why a bad bulb would do this.
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-18-2013, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by willpower102 View Post

Thanks, video works now.

How is it obvious that it's the bulb and not the color wheel?

The bulb is a brand new optoma bulb and housing through a reputable ebay seller in cupertino cali who sells only original equipment. My hd70 bulb from him worked great. They even come with the little optoma certified sticker and contact info. It's the exact same as my original one in every way.

I'm really tempted to buy a color wheel with the way this one is behaving unless you guys can help me understand why a bad bulb would do this.

Your projector is wonky with new bulb. You put old bulb back in and the projector works fine. You put new bulb back in and it's wonky again.

The new bulb seems to affecting the projector circuitry. Is it an OEM bulb with generic housing? Can a new lamp assembly be defective? Not common but it can happen.

Contact the seller and tell him the problems you are having. What does he suggest?

Could the color wheel be the problem? Anything is possible.

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post #5 of 10 Old 09-18-2013, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by willpower102 View Post



I'm trying not to drop too much more money into this.

Let me guess bought the cheapest lamp you could find rather than buying an OEM Optoma lamp... If so, that is your problem! OMG I just looked at the video.. you should never run a projector with the cover off for any lenght of time. The lamp get about as hot as the sun within seconds and many projectors need the lid on to cool properly. Is that the issue here, probably not since it works correctly with the original lamp.
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post #6 of 10 Old 09-18-2013, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Something I should note that I forgot: The old factory bulb got so hot that it bent the plastic near it, so heat may have damaged something else. Just not sure what yet.
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Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

Let me guess bought the cheapest lamp you could find rather than buying an OEM Optoma lamp... If so, that is your problem!

No, It's an oem Optoma lamp.
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Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

OMG I just looked at the video.. you should never run a projector with the cover off for any lenght of time. The lamp get about as hot as the sun within seconds and many projectors need the lid on to cool properly. Is that the issue here, probably not since it works correctly with the original lamp.

It's fine. It's also cooled with an extra fan wired to a portable psu while open to test for temperature changes. I'm familiar with component level repairs, just not projectors. (yet smile.gif )
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Originally Posted by Mr.G View Post

Your projector is wonky with new bulb. You put old bulb back in and the projector works fine. You put new bulb back in and it's wonky again.

The new bulb seems to affecting the projector circuitry. Is it an OEM bulb with generic housing? Can a new lamp assembly be defective? Not common but it can happen.

Contact the seller and tell him the problems you are having. What does he suggest?

Could the color wheel be the problem? Anything is possible.

Sound logic, however the resistance is the same on both bulbs.
What I've found is that the new bulb reaches operating temp much quicker. Also because of the brightness of the new bulb, the temperature gets a lot hotter than the old bulb.
This is the only significant difference I can find. No bad caps either (sigh, that would have been too easy wouldn't it have been? I need to measure the ramp up with an oscope, but mine is out of now.)

The housing and bulb are both OEM.
But to play the devils advocate, the housing being oem or not wouldn't matter one bit. It's not even mechanical let alone electrical. It's some plastic and metal that the bulb snaps into. Anyway, it doesn't matter what housing I use. I measured both to see that they were identical and I swapped the new bulb to the old housing just for shits and giggles. All it does is what it's supposed to - Holds the bulb and plug in place wink.gif

I contacted the seller. He guarantees the bulb is good and doubts it's a problem with the bulb. He'll send me a new one when he receives this one back. I'm inclined to agree with him after all my testing.

  1. I'm going to double check the two main caps on the power board and the inverter board again just to be sure I didn't miss anything.
  2. At this point I'm thinking:
  3. Bad bulb - Would have to be bad by being out of manufacturer spec
  4. Bad cap(s) - Didn't see any but plan to double check. Would cause the draw of the new bulb to underload everything else, including the wheel which would then be skipping.
  5. Bad color wheel - Only think I can think of is heat damage and the color wheel can't keep up with the power draw of the new bulb.
  6. Bad Thermal Temperature sensor - Not even sure where this guy is on this particular projector. (I've seen it in others)
  7. Bad Color wheel sync board - This little board is really close to the light, so I wonder if heat messed up anything here too. Tested continuity on the whole thing and it works, but of course I don't have diagrams for all the gates and such on the board.


Hopefully someone familiar with replacing parts in these can chime in smile.gif

[Edited to be clearer and leave out any irritations]
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-18-2013, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Found two videos that do the same thing. One says color wheel and color wheel sensor! Hopefully I'm getting somewhere!
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-20-2013, 11:04 AM
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Hmmm..... I would have thought the main input filter cap in the PS might be weak, browning out with more current draw, but I guess you thought of that already. Only way to be sure is to measure the output voltages to see if they remain stable.

But it seems to me that your problem is too much light hitting the optical sensor on the color wheel. Did you clean it and the black stripe on the wheel? Too much dust and too much light may cause too low a contrast between the wheel and the black stripe, messing up the tach pulses for the wheel.

Welcome to the darkside.....
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-18-2013, 01:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tinman View Post

Hmmm..... I would have thought the main input filter cap in the PS might be weak, browning out with more current draw, but I guess you thought of that already. Only way to be sure is to measure the output voltages to see if they remain stable.

But it seems to me that your problem is too much light hitting the optical sensor on the color wheel. Did you clean it and the black stripe on the wheel? Too much dust and too much light may cause too low a contrast between the wheel and the black stripe, messing up the tach pulses for the wheel.

I measure voltage and current from the two big caps in the system. First thought was bad capacitor.

I did clean it throughly. The sensor was dirty and I wondered if that was causing it to miss the timing.
I use and improvised timing light from a student physics kit to check the rpm of the wheel and it was surging as soon as it heats up.
An Ir sensor shows that the temps constantly raised on the wheel just before the thing shut off. I didn't write them down for some odd reason.

There is an update though.

I found a new color wheel with the rpm sensor attached. Replaced them both and the thing works great now!

What I haven't done is try JUST the rpm sensor on the old color wheel. I have a feeling the wheel is perfectly fine and that sensor burned out.

One thing I'm confused about is where the temp sensor is. I did a lot of research but couldn't find out if it was in the rpm sensor or in the color wheel itself. I'm guessing it's in the rpm sensor?

Either way, it's fixed, but I still would like to do more testing to help others out.
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post #10 of 10 Old 11-05-2013, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I found this interesting pdf about replacing the photo sensor on the color wheel when digging around tech manuals on optoma's site.

http://www.optoma.co.uk/optomatechnical/sharing/HD20LV/ECNs%20AND%20TBs/Main%20Board%20%20and%20%20Photo%20Sen%20Upgrade.pdf
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