INFOCUS H8606HD New DLP Full hd 3D Ready ISFccc - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 136 Old 01-21-2014, 03:19 PM
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I can confirm that if I set it to black on no signal and completely defocus then I see some dust, is there anyone without any ? Seems to have no effect when focussed with a signal, without signal I can make out the very vague blur that is a defocussed dust speck.

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post #92 of 136 Old 01-22-2014, 09:19 AM
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I know photos don't really tell the whole story but I would also love to see some PICS of this unit in action. I currently have an X10 and it's upgrade time. This fits in most areas including the throw distance for my current pipe location.

Randy J. Fisher, CTS-D
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post #93 of 136 Old 01-22-2014, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfisher View Post

I know photos don't really tell the whole story but I would also love to see some PICS of this unit in action. I currently have an X10 and it's upgrade time. This fits in most areas including the throw distance for my current pipe location.

 



Will upload a few photos, I came straight from the X10 and the throw is obviously why I looked to this unit. Its physically almost half the size, and feedback from all the family, so much better and brighter than the X10 - its double the lumens after all. I checked dark scenes versus the X10 (Harry Potter last film was my test case) and after tweaking the picture settings it seems very similar to the X10. You won't like the remote, credit card sized non-iluminated job, but like me you probably have a Harmony learning remote. Rainbow effect is slightly more visible than X10 but not an issue for our family.
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post #94 of 136 Old 01-22-2014, 09:54 AM
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Thanks Swedish Cook. I look forward to seeing the PICs. I saw that the remote was pretty lame but expected for the price. I am still rocking a color Pronto Pro so problem there.

Randy J. Fisher, CTS-D
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post #95 of 136 Old 01-22-2014, 03:46 PM
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A few amateur photos, I think my photo skills don't do much for the projector ...

 

Projector itself

 

Warner splash, notice faithfully rendered digital artifacts on the right :

 

Harry potter last disk, chapter 8, a fairly dark scene, same still captured on projector

 

 

And LCD TV

 

As I say my photo skills leave a lot to be desired. 

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post #96 of 136 Old 01-22-2014, 04:07 PM
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One more, just started watching Death In Paradise and opening shots pretty nice





Next to the LCD, this projector can hold its own on light scenes, which I could not say of the X10 and like I said earlier the dark scenes are about the same as the X10 ... there is lack of true blacks like you see on a TV, I doubt you can solve that without spending silly money.
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post #97 of 136 Old 01-22-2014, 04:42 PM
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hey , i am Frenchy ,iwant to show you my projector

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post #98 of 136 Old 01-23-2014, 02:11 PM
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Is that an add on lens Frenchy ?

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post #99 of 136 Old 01-23-2014, 03:55 PM
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yes it's an isco 1 , i can move it when i want to see a movie 16/9

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post #100 of 136 Old 01-24-2014, 05:23 PM
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Hi martinzmc,

What you are seeing is what we call a blemish. There is really only one blemish but you see reflections of two because the light entering the DMD is at a 45 degree angle. You are seeing the blemish reflected from the DMD window exterior surface then slightly offset reflected again by the interior window surface. Blemishes are only visible in a totally black image or very close to total black. That is, all mirrors tilted toward the light engines' dump zone. Ordinarily you focus on the plane of mirrors which is slightly farther away from the lens than the window's interior surface. Because the window glass has some depth to it you can never get ideal focus of both reflections at the same focus setting.

The TI DMD quality specification says that a blemish is allowed if it is no more than one inch diameter or length when viewed with normal brightness and contrast settings on a 1.0 gain screen, 60" diagonal, from a distance of two meters. Blemishes are rarely visible if there is even the slightest amount of light reflected from the mirror array to the lens. TI allows that no image greater than Gray 10 be used to evaluate blemishes. That is 10 out of a range of 0 to 255. DMD technology is linear regarding signal input vs image brightness. In other words it is natively linear gamma. Projectors and other display devices use gamma settings of about 2.1 to 2.6. The standard is 2.21. This means the 2.2 gamma video signal will need be well above bit level 10 in order to be equal to linear gamma's bit level 10. This is why you don't see blemishes in normal projector operation.

Best regards,
Dennis
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post #101 of 136 Old 01-24-2014, 06:16 PM
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Wow Dennis, that's some knowledge you have there !

 

Bottom line I think is that if you see white specks when fully defocussed and diffused circular marks on full black there is no need to worry or return a DLP projector, correct ? I certainly see these but even with dark scenes, when there is a signal I see no such defects.

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post #102 of 136 Old 01-27-2014, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tibia View Post

Hi martinzmc,

What you are seeing is what we call a blemish. There is really only one blemish but you see reflections of two because the light entering the DMD is at a 45 degree angle. You are seeing the blemish reflected from the DMD window exterior surface then slightly offset reflected again by the interior window surface. Blemishes are only visible in a totally black image or very close to total black. That is, all mirrors tilted toward the light engines' dump zone. Ordinarily you focus on the plane of mirrors which is slightly farther away from the lens than the window's interior surface. Because the window glass has some depth to it you can never get ideal focus of both reflections at the same focus setting.

The TI DMD quality specification says that a blemish is allowed if it is no more than one inch diameter or length when viewed with normal brightness and contrast settings on a 1.0 gain screen, 60" diagonal, from a distance of two meters. Blemishes are rarely visible if there is even the slightest amount of light reflected from the mirror array to the lens. TI allows that no image greater than Gray 10 be used to evaluate blemishes. That is 10 out of a range of 0 to 255. DMD technology is linear regarding signal input vs image brightness. In other words it is natively linear gamma. Projectors and other display devices use gamma settings of about 2.1 to 2.6. The standard is 2.21. This means the 2.2 gamma video signal will need be well above bit level 10 in order to be equal to linear gamma's bit level 10. This is why you don't see blemishes in normal projector operation.

Best regards,
Dennis
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post #103 of 136 Old 01-27-2014, 01:45 PM
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Dennis thank you
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post #104 of 136 Old 01-28-2014, 12:03 PM
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Another question for you 8606 owners. Does the focus drift at all on this unit? I have had 5 projectors now and I think 2 out of the 5 I owned had this issue. The focus would shift while the unit was on. Always drove me nuts. No matter what I did the projector would be slightly de-focused by the time a movie was over from when I started it. My current Infocus X10 does not drift at all but my old X1 did as did one of the Sanyo units I used to own. Seems like a crap shoot in this lower end of the market. I know some people don't mind a slightly de-focused image but I am a full on "as sharp as I can focus it" kind of guy.

Thanks

Randy

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post #105 of 136 Old 01-28-2014, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rfisher View Post

Another question for you 8606 owners. Does the focus drift at all on this unit? I have had 5 projectors now and I think 2 out of the 5 I owned had this issue. The focus would shift while the unit was on. Always drove me nuts. No matter what I did the projector would be slightly de-focused by the time a movie was over from when I started it. My current Infocus X10 does not drift at all but my old X1 did as did one of the Sanyo units I used to own. Seems like a crap shoot in this lower end of the market. I know some people don't mind a slightly de-focused image but I am a full on "as sharp as I can focus it" kind of guy.

Thanks

Randy

Not seen any drift ... but haven't seen it on Infocus X10, Optoma H27 or the Sanyo before that ... tbh never heard of drifting focus.

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post #106 of 136 Old 01-30-2014, 01:34 PM
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Finally got mine too. Ordered it on Dec 24 and it took a German webshop/distributor more than a month to deliver. Spent another day fixing it under the ceiling. Not to mention it costs quite a bit more than in the US.

 

My quick observations (had it running for 6 hours):

+ good colors (and pretty good out-of-the-box settings)

+ great brightness (even too bright for my taste, but I know those lumens are needed for 3D content)

+ great zoom (though I personally don't use it)

+ simple yet effective menus

- noise (even in eco mode it is still to loud for my taste (was used to 20dB projector before though))

- the remote is a joke (unnecessary savings, gives impression of a cheap item)

 

Will write some more in the following days as I spend some more time tweaking it, but I would really like to see InFocus engineers do something about noise levels. My new year's wish would be if they would implement a quiet mode in the firmware so the projector further lowers the light output (probably around 30-40% - it is more than enough for cinema mode) and lowers the fans rpm ...

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post #107 of 136 Old 01-30-2014, 05:18 PM
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You are right on the remote, its a joke, but almost everyone will use a programmable remote anyhow. On the noise, seems you've had REALLY quiet model before, the 8606 in eco at 29db beats many of the most popular models which are typically 30db or more - certainly noticeably quieter than my prior Infocus X10. I really would not hold my breath for them reducing the noise further therefore. 

 

What was that 20db model, must have been pricey - I just went onto projector central and looked for projectors <1000 USD and noise <22db, didn't find any. Best I could see was Optoma H25 at 26db, even in the 28-30 class only 9 projectors found in the budget price band, 30-32 there are 19 and then 32-34 there are 36.

 

On "normal" mode its intolerable though - big difference between eco at 29 and normal at 33db. I'll certainly not buy anything now that won't get below 30db. 

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post #108 of 136 Old 01-30-2014, 11:26 PM
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I used to have Sanyo PLV-Z2000 for five years and that one had 19dB in ECO mode, that's why I think this InFocus is still loud. And you're right, its price was three times the InFocus and I wasn't willing to spend that amount of money on the projector again.

 

On the other hand - I think many companies are missing the point when it comes to home cinema projectors - yes, they should have great colors and contrast ratio, but quietness is a big factor too, at least for me. Right there in the top 3 things a good home cinema pj should have.

 

Which poses a real problem now because everybody wants 3D (though I don't think many users actually watch more than a movie or two in this mode, I know I don't) and that itself demands higher brightness, more powerfull bulb and generates more heat.

 

The solution is still there - at least the way I see it - and it is quite simple. Just smarter electronics. The manufacturer can tune the firmware settings so when 2D movie or theater mode (they may come up with another name, could be "True Cinema 2D" or sth) is selected the projector would lower the light output to around 800-1000 lumens (roughly 30-40% of the bulbs power). This way the bulb generates much less heat so the fans could spin at lower rpm and we would get a "quiet" mode. I know that I would aim for sth like this if I was a developer of such machines.

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post #109 of 136 Old 01-31-2014, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfisher View Post

Another question for you 8606 owners. Does the focus drift at all on this unit? I have had 5 projectors now and I think 2 out of the 5 I owned had this issue. The focus would shift while the unit was on. Always drove me nuts. No matter what I did the projector would be slightly de-focused by the time a movie was over from when I started it. My current Infocus X10 does not drift at all but my old X1 did as did one of the Sanyo units I used to own. Seems like a crap shoot in this lower end of the market. I know some people don't mind a slightly de-focused image but I am a full on "as sharp as I can focus it" kind of guy.

Thanks

Randy

I don't have a 8606, but focus drift from cold to operating temps is common enough----some drift more, some less, to an extent it's a non-issue with most people. It's hard to change the law of physics with heat expansion, which can affect focus depending on the design and materials used.

Simple solution? Basically most (like myself) focus the PJ after it's warmed up---so at least 30 minutes in. Then it's focused through most of it's operation, the exception being as it's warming up. In my room the PJ goes on first, then everything else, by the time a blu ray loads, and I get through all the warnings and FF through all the previews (mad.gif), it could be a good 10-15 minutes of warm up on the PJ. By that time most of the warming up has been done, but even if it's not perfect, I'm ok with it getting sharper in the next 10-15 minutes or so.

For me it's not a big deal.
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post #110 of 136 Old 02-01-2014, 02:48 AM - Thread Starter
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The full review about the Vivitek H1185HD is now online, it's the Vivitek version from this Infocus :


http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/2014/02/01/test-vivitek-h1185hd/

Visit the new pjhc.fr forum here : http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/forum/
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post #111 of 136 Old 02-07-2014, 04:06 PM
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Hi, new owner and a new member. yay!

I still have a lot to read! For now I have only a very simple question for those that own an IN8606HD.

 

When the device is connected to the mains but is off, does both LEDs are ON for you?

 

In my case they are both ON and as soon as I turn on the projector the "lamp error" goes to OFF.

Is this the expected behaviour? It looks strange for me.

 

Thank you.

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post #112 of 136 Old 02-08-2014, 01:15 AM
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When in standby (off) only the power LED (blue) is on.

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post #113 of 136 Old 02-09-2014, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csaturn View Post

When the device is connected to the mains but is off, does both LEDs are ON for you?



 



Yes on mine !

EDIT : According to page 42 of the user manual both LED's on is not a valid combination, for a lamp error the power led should flash 5 times while the lamp LED is on. Either this is some kind of undocumented fault or there has been a firmware change between manual and our projectors. Mine definitely behaved this way since day 1.
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post #114 of 136 Old 02-09-2014, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kraine View Post

The full review about the Vivitek H1185HD is now online, it's the Vivitek version from this Infocus :





http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/2014/02/01/test-vivitek-h1185hd/

 



Or if your French is no so good let Google have a punt at it

http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/2014/02/01/test-vivitek-h1185hd/&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhttp://www.projection-homecinema.fr/2014/02/01/test-vivitek-h1185hd/%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-uk:IE-SearchBox

Would like to see a proper review of the Infocus though, the greater lamp life, lower fan noise and different power ratings suggest they are not identical (but obviously made by the same manufacturer if the Vivitek branding on my HDMI cable is anything to go by).
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post #115 of 136 Old 02-10-2014, 03:28 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csaturn View Post

When the device is connected to the mains but is off, does both LEDs are ON for you?


 

Yes on mine !

EDIT : According to page 42 of the user manual both LED's on is not a valid combination, for a lamp error the power led should flash 5 times while the lamp LED is on. Either this is some kind of undocumented fault or there has been a firmware change between manual and our projectors. Mine definitely behaved this way since day 1.

 

Yes!. This is exactly my point. The User manual does not have this combination and it looks strange and scary to have the lamp failure LED ON at any point in time.

 

The first one I got, I've sent it back because of this and it got immediately marked to be replaced. Last week finally received the replacement and it has exactly the same behaviour! 

 

Don't know if it is related, but in the new one when in eco-mode there is some serious "flickering"; especially when there is a lot of white projected. I don't remember this happening on the previous one, but I cannot be sure because I only tried it for less than a couple of hours. Do you notice this effect also?

 

Thanks again.

 

edit: corrected some major grammar mistakes

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post #116 of 136 Old 02-11-2014, 12:25 AM
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.. in eco-mode there is some serious "flickering"; especially when there is a lot of white projected. I don't remember this happening on the previous one, but I cannot be sure because I only tried it for less than a couple of hours. Do you notice this effect also? ...

Mine is fine in eco, if you have serious flickering you need to send it back, imho using "normal"mode is not an option, its too loud.

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post #117 of 136 Old 02-12-2014, 12:07 AM
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Hi,
can you tell us please what is the contrast comparison with the other Infocus models In8601 and SP8600HD3D?
they claim much more contrast than the IN8606,at least in theory..wink.gif
thanks,
George
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post #118 of 136 Old 02-12-2014, 10:26 AM
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geosoy

IN8601 and SP8600HD3D are identical except for their case parts. One is black the other is white. I just did a quick full on/full off contrast measurement on IN8601 and IN8606 in our lab. IN8601 measured 1995 while IN8606 measured 1395 and 5730 with Eco dimming. You should ignore the Eco dimming measurement. 1395 is the one that matters. The reason for the higher contrast in IN8601 is that its colorwheel has a white segment whereas IN8606 does not. The white segment gives a big boost to white lumens but black lumens remains the same and subsequently contrast ratio rises. The penalty for using a white segment is reduced color brightness.

Best regards,
Dennis

Dennis
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post #119 of 136 Old 02-12-2014, 12:21 PM
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Thats great,
thanks for this, appreciated..
cheers
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post #120 of 136 Old 02-12-2014, 04:00 PM
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how can i remove the colors in cms ? i try with every color and nothing move in the cie ; i use hcfr to calibrate and i one display

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