INFOCUS H8606HD New DLP Full hd 3D Ready ISFccc - Page 5 - AVS Forum
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post #121 of 136 Old 02-17-2014, 09:06 AM
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aimepijoan, if I understand you correctly you are trying to adjust RGB hue to Rec 709 with cms. Hue is set by the full width-half power bandwidth of the red, green and blue segments of the colorwheel. There is nothing you can do to change that. CMS will allow you to get some improvement regarding saturation and lightness but not hue. You can manipulate cyan, yellow and magenta hue somewhat because they are made up of mixtures of red, green and blue but since RGB are not perfect you won't be able to get CYM perfect either. If the pursuit of lumens were not such a big deal RGB color points could be made more accurate but to do so will result in lower lumens.

Best regards,
Dennis
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post #122 of 136 Old 02-17-2014, 03:19 PM
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thank you for the answer , i try to do the maximum

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post #123 of 136 Old 03-31-2014, 12:02 PM
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I have one question. I see that in the manual there are a setting to 2.35 aspecto, What made it? Compress all the image to 2.35 aspect? Put black bars an 16.9 image to get a 2.35?
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post #124 of 136 Old 04-03-2014, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaimemlg View Post

I have one question. I see that in the manual there are a setting to 2.35 aspecto, What made it? Compress all the image to 2.35 aspect? Put black bars an 16.9 image to get a 2.35?
Thats exactly what it does, squash vertically and add black bars top and bottom, it would be nice if they added something more useful, like ability to chop the centre of a 2.35 and fill the 16:9 screen.
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post #125 of 136 Old 04-08-2014, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swedish cook View Post

Thats exactly what it does, squash vertically and add black bars top and bottom, it would be nice if they added something more useful, like ability to chop the centre of a 2.35 and fill the 16:9 screen.

Please, could you confirm it? Can you take some picture whit this aspect ratio enabled and disabled?
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post #126 of 136 Old 05-04-2014, 04:32 PM
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I have had an Infocus IN82 installed with a Panamorph UH480 Widescreen Lens for several years and have enjoyed it a lot.

This week the IN82 has begun shutting itself down after an hour or so for some sort of thermal reason.

It may be time to swap it out rather than have it repaired.

Is the H8606D an upgrade, a lateral move or a downgrade from the Infocus IN82 in a light controlled Dedicated 2D Home Theater?

Murray Kerdman
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post #127 of 136 Old 05-05-2014, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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post #128 of 136 Old 05-05-2014, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kraine View Post

My hundredth projector review is now online :

http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/2014/05/05/test-infocus-h8606hd-100eme-test-de-projecteurs-de-gregory/

how do expect us to read it...it aint in English...
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post #129 of 136 Old 05-06-2014, 04:15 PM
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But your name is Paris, and its in French??!

Use google or babelfish to translate
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post #130 of 136 Old 05-07-2014, 08:30 PM
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This is simple. Open the link, right click on french subject matter & then click on translate to English, that is all to it. I have saved the entire review on my desk top, as time permit, I will go through in detail. I bought this projector IN8606HD from best buy for $900 and it is an excellent projector. Colors are very good, 3D is amazing with  EStar America ESG601 DLP Link 3D Glasses, however, blacks are subjective. I would rate it, as more than adequate.

Desperately trying to get some calibration settings, such as contrast, color, brightness, sharpness, brilliant color etc, etc. So far no luck, just going with default settings.

Raoof

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post #131 of 136 Old 05-15-2014, 11:18 AM
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I'm contemplating supplementing my current projector, a JVC 4810, with this PJ. I would use the INFOCUS projector for 3D content, console gaming, and possibly casual netflix or cable network viewing. I would reserve my JVC primarily for high quality content from my bluray player and media streamer.

My requirements for a second PJ are 1) that it's a 1080p DLP, for zero ghosting on 3D and low lag with gaming; 2) it will accomodate my throw distance of 13 ft (115" 2.35 aspect ratio 1.1 gain screen); 3) that it has a VESA connector so that I can use my MonsterVision RF 3D glasses and 4) that it's cheap (<$1000).

In my research so far, this is the first projector that fills all of my requirements (I was looking at the Sharp Z30000, but they're no longer available at a price I'm willing to pay). I will follow this thread to get a grasp on owners' experiences with this projector. My room is darkly painted and light controlled, so one concern I have is the low contrast and black levels of this PJ, but with the type of content I intend to use it for, I hope this won't be much of an issue. Thanks to everyone that contributes to this thread! smile.gif

"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson

 

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post #132 of 136 Old 05-15-2014, 05:54 PM
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Any lens shift? Whats the off set?
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post #133 of 136 Old 05-15-2014, 06:05 PM
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No lens shift. Offset is 10. So, ability to properly place the pj in the room is important. It does have a throw ratio of 1.39 -2.09 and a zoom ratio of 1.5 which helps.

"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson

 

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post #134 of 136 Old 08-07-2014, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkerdman View Post
I have had an Infocus IN82 installed with a Panamorph UH480 Widescreen Lens for several years and have enjoyed it a lot.

This week the IN82 has begun shutting itself down after an hour or so for some sort of thermal reason.

It may be time to swap it out rather than have it repaired.

Is the H8606D an upgrade, a lateral move or a downgrade from the Infocus IN82 in a light controlled Dedicated 2D Home Theater?
Same boat, is this an upgrade over the IN82? Every other DLP projector under $3000 has crap focus uniformity.
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post #135 of 136 Old 08-17-2014, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tibia View Post
Hi martinzmc,<br><br>
What you are seeing is what we call a blemish. There is really only one blemish but you see reflections of two because the light entering the DMD is at a 45 degree angle. You are seeing the blemish reflected from the DMD window exterior surface then slightly offset reflected again by the interior window surface. Blemishes are only visible in a totally black image or very close to total black. That is, all mirrors tilted toward the light engines' dump zone. Ordinarily you focus on the plane of mirrors which is slightly farther away from the lens than the window's interior surface. Because the window glass has some depth to it you can never get ideal focus of both reflections at the same focus setting.<br><br>
The TI DMD quality specification says that a blemish is allowed if it is no more than one inch diameter or length when viewed with normal brightness and contrast settings on a 1.0 gain screen, 60" diagonal, from a distance of two meters. Blemishes are rarely visible if there is even the slightest amount of light reflected from the mirror array to the lens. TI allows that no image greater than Gray 10 be used to evaluate blemishes. That is 10 out of a range of 0 to 255. DMD technology is linear regarding signal input vs image brightness. In other words it is natively linear gamma. Projectors and other display devices use gamma settings of about 2.1 to 2.6. The standard is 2.21. This means the 2.2 gamma video signal will need be well above bit level 10 in order to be equal to linear gamma's bit level 10. This is why you don't see blemishes in normal projector operation.<br><br>
Best regards,<br>
Dennis
tibia, so is the "blemish" what I am seeing on this projector that looks like two lens-flare circles in one quadrant of the screen on very dimly lit scenes?
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post #136 of 136 Old 08-17-2014, 04:41 PM
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Thinker,


A 'blemish" is most likely what you are seeing. It is either that or something in the projection lens. Try adjusting focus. If the blemish moves as you turn the focus ring it is a lens issue. A DMD blemish will remain stationary and change its size as you adjust focus. In either case it is something you can't fix.


Best regards,
Dennis

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