New Budget Projector + Screen Help Needed (Small Room) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 11-18-2013, 10:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I have been in the market for a new projector and screen for a little bit now, but figured that I might find a good deal on Black Friday so I have some money set aside ready to go. I am pretty easy to please, and my only "requirements" for the projector are:
- 1080p
- 3D capable
-"good" 2D picture

I currently have an old Sony VPL-BW5 and a no-name brand 84" diagonal 4:3 screen, so I am expecting anything I get to be a major upgrade. Specifically, I have narrowed my search down to the BenQ W1070 and the Optoma HD131Xe. For screens, I was looking at something 16:9 and 92"-100", as seen here: http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-Electric100H-Spectrum-Projection/dp/B000YTRFEG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1384842715&sr=1-2&keywords=16%3A9+screen

I have brackets on my screen wall with "arms" that stick out, and I have my current screen hung on these. I use these arms because they give the screen enough clearance to roll down in front of my TV, which is already pressed as far back as it can go. These arms cause the screen to stick out about 1 ft. from the wall.

My projector is wall mounted on the wall opposite the screen. The lens of the projector is 14" below my 8' ceilings. I have the possibility to move it down a little if necessary, but I currently have it angled downwards and have been happy with this setup. The distance from the lens to the screen itself is about 10.5', give or take 2-3 inches or so.

The entire room is 12.5' long (screen wall to back wall) and 11.5' wide (side wall to side wall). I have my couch against the rear wall, below the projector, so the distance from my eyes to the screen are also about 10.5', give or take a few. I have been to ProjectorCentral and looked at the calculator tool, but do not completely understand it - specifically, the yellow/green/red sections of the interval line, as well as Throw Range vs. Throw Distance.

Here are some (older) pics of the room. You can see my current screen, the TV/entertainment stand it rolls down in front of, and the projector mounted on the wall. Please don't mind the couch or other furniture, as most of it has changed since then. If any additional pics would help, just tell me what to post. Thanks!

262f80289776931.jpg ce1335289776933.jpg 5565ef289776935.jpg 5d3bea289776936.jpg 5c2d54289776937.jpg 05e7ad289776938.jpg

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post #2 of 20 Old 11-18-2013, 11:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I also have the ability to purchase an Epson 3010 projector with 2 pairs of 3D glasses and a screen locally. How would this compare to the two "budget" projectors I listed above?

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post #3 of 20 Old 11-19-2013, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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I just found out that the Epson package comes with a 120" 16:9 electric screen made by Mustang, and these sell on Walmart.com for around $635. The owner says that the projector lamp has ~1200 hours left on it, as he used it for about 300 hours so far.

I realize that 120" is probably way to big for my seating distance, but I am still open to hearing how the 3010 compares to the other two projectors I was looking at, as they are all in the same ballpark price range. For the price, this also seems like a killer deal if I would be able to get away with 120".

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post #4 of 20 Old 11-22-2013, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Any thoughts?

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post #5 of 20 Old 11-22-2013, 01:31 PM
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Depends on the price. The 3010 has gotten good reviews and is a more expensive (and probably a little nicer) PJ that the 2 DLPs you mentioned (I believe it received a “Best in class” award from one of the reviewers) and if the screen fits your needs, it sounds like a good deal. Keep in mind, bulbs for the 3010 are around $250. The lamp life is supposed to be 4-5000 hours. So if he’s only got 300 on it, you should have a lot more than 1200 left.
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post #6 of 20 Old 11-22-2013, 01:35 PM
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I think you would be happy with any one of those three projectors, they are all in the same class. I wouldn't pay more then $700 for the Epson plus what ever you think the screen might be worth as their is most likely no warranty. The others have been priced in the $800 range at times and would at least have a warranty. All of them would have to be mounted upside down and as close as possible to the ceiling because of their offset and lack of lens shift. Only the BenQ I think would do a 120" screen in that room but check the calculators to be sure. 3D on the DLP's is far superior to the Epson, you have to decide between DLP or LCD. I have an 110" screen in a 12 x 12' room and sit about 8' from screen and love it so 120" is not unheard of.

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post #7 of 20 Old 11-22-2013, 01:41 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I am going to go with the BenQ or Optoma. Buying new makes me feel a little more comfortable since I would get warranty and everything. I also think that the 120" screen would be too large for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

All of them would have to be mounted upside down and as close as possible to the ceiling because of their offset and lack of lens shift. Only the BenQ I think would do a 120" screen in that room but check the calculators to be sure. 3D on the DLP's is far superior to the Epson, you have to decide between DLP or LCD.

Good 3D is one of the important features to me so I guess DLP wins that battle.

Why do you say that the projectors would have to be mounted upside down?

And as I said in the OP, I messed around with the calculators but was unclear of what the different colored regions of the bars mean.

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post #8 of 20 Old 11-22-2013, 01:47 PM
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That's the way these projectors are designed and have to be mounted a little above the top of the screen (upside down) or a little below the bottom of the screen (right side up). That is to avoid using digital keystone that will degrade the picture.

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post #9 of 20 Old 11-22-2013, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

That's the way these projectors are designed and have to be mounted a little above the top of the screen (upside down) or a little below the bottom of the screen (right side up). That is to avoid using digital keystone that will degrade the picture.

Thanks for the info!

I am leaning towards the BenQ W1070. From what I have read it seems to be the "better" projector...or more people seem to like it at least. Would anyone care to lend input on using it in my specific room with the dimensions I provided? Should it be OK?

And how about the screen I posted a link to? Is Da-Lite a good company/product? Is 92" the right size for me? Does it matter if I go white or gray?

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post #10 of 20 Old 11-25-2013, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Still looking for some input...especially on the screen I posted a link to.

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post #11 of 20 Old 11-25-2013, 03:33 PM
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The decision to go gray or white is based on the ceiling and wall color of your room. It appears in your photo that the walls and ceiling are white causing light scatter back to the screen this would indicate a gray screen to counter act the light scatter giving you better blacks at the cost of off whites. If you paint the ceiling and walls darker then a bright white screen would give the best whites and black level. Any pull down screen, electric or manual ( tab tensioned excluded) will usually develop some waves in them causing a ripple in a panned image, that's why fixed frame screens are so popular. Check out the screen section of this forum for more info.

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post #12 of 20 Old 11-25-2013, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

That's the way these projectors are designed and have to be mounted a little above the top of the screen (upside down) or a little below the bottom of the screen (right side up). That is to avoid using digital keystone that will degrade the picture.

I just bought the HD25e and will be starting out with just a shelf right side up. Is this possible without using keystone? 12.3ft living room.

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post #13 of 20 Old 11-25-2013, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

The decision to go gray or white is based on the ceiling and wall color of your room. It appears in your photo that the walls and ceiling are white causing light scatter back to the screen this would indicate a gray screen to counter act the light scatter giving you better blacks at the cost of off whites. If you paint the ceiling and walls darker then a bright white screen would give the best whites and black level. Any pull down screen, electric or manual ( tab tensioned excluded) will usually develop some waves in them causing a ripple in a panned image, that's why fixed frame screens are so popular. Check out the screen section of this forum for more info.

Thanks for the info. You are correct in that my ceiling is white; 3 walls are a shade of yellow (called "Honey" or something like that) while the front (screen) wall is black. I was leaning towards a grey screen in order to achieve better blacks, so thanks for clearing that up.

I understand that screens can cause ripples - my current one especially shows since the a/c vent for the room blows towards it. Even so, I prefer an electric pull-down screen because I have a TV set up already that I use for "everyday watching," and don't want to lose that.

What about screen size? Does 92" sound good? Would 100" be better?

Edit: I also noticed that the Elite screen I posted a link to says it is "black backed," but then the description says it is "MaxWhite with a gain of up to 1.1"...so what does that mean? I remember having found an option to select between white or grey (maybe the company was Da-Lite, not Elite) but I can't seem to find it now.

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post #14 of 20 Old 11-26-2013, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obababoy View Post

I just bought the HD25e and will be starting out with just a shelf right side up. Is this possible without using keystone? 12.3ft living room.

No you can't. You should at least place the projector upside down on the shelf using some rubber corks or what ever to make it sit level. That's assuming the shelf is close to the ceiling.

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post #15 of 20 Old 11-26-2013, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KtrainHurricane View Post

Thanks for the info. You are correct in that my ceiling is white; 3 walls are a shade of yellow (called "Honey" or something like that) while the front (screen) wall is black. I was leaning towards a grey screen in order to achieve better blacks, so thanks for clearing that up.

I understand that screens can cause ripples - my current one especially shows since the a/c vent for the room blows towards it. Even so, I prefer an electric pull-down screen because I have a TV set up already that I use for "everyday watching," and don't want to lose that.

What about screen size? Does 92" sound good? Would 100" be better?

Edit: I also noticed that the Elite screen I posted a link to says it is "black backed," but then the description says it is "MaxWhite with a gain of up to 1.1"...so what does that mean? I remember having found an option to select between white or grey (maybe the company was Da-Lite, not Elite) but I can't seem to find it now.

It all depends on your preference akin to where you would sit in a theater if you had choice of seats. The closest I would recommend is a 1 to 1 screen distance (110" screen is 8' wide so sit no closer then 8'). Normal is about 1.5 x width or 12' from a 110" screen. The black backing just means that no light will pass through the screen to reflect off the back wall (your back wall is black so not an issue) and most white screens have it. Remember when projecting a wide screen movie with black bars at top and bottom you diagonal screen is smaller so a larger screen might be desired if that's your primary use.

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post #16 of 20 Old 11-26-2013, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

It all depends on your preference akin to where you would sit in a theater if you had choice of seats. The closest I would recommend is a 1 to 1 screen distance (110" screen is 8' wide so sit no closer then 8'). Normal is about 1.5 x width or 12' from a 110" screen. The black backing just means that no light will pass through the screen to reflect off the back wall (your back wall is black so not an issue) and most white screens have it. Remember when projecting a wide screen movie with black bars at top and bottom you diagonal screen is smaller so a larger screen might be desired if that's your primary use.

Thanks!

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post #17 of 20 Old 11-26-2013, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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I am still having trouble figuring out the projector calculator, specifically the colors. From messing around with it, I have found (I think, at least) that the BenQ would require a 100" screen from 10.5' away. The Optoma would allow me to use the 92" screen - which I prefer - but the arrows on the calculator's bars are all in the red...what does this mean?

I also read that the Optoma has a longer throw...but wouldn't that mean the image would be bigger at a closer difference?

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post #18 of 20 Old 11-26-2013, 11:43 AM
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Longer throw means that projector has to be farther away to get a larger image. At 10.5' for a 92" screen the optoma is right in the middle of it zoom range. The Benq would have to moved I/2' closer to get that small of a screen (10'). I don't know which calculator you were looking at but the red is most likely telling you the projector will be very bright for a lot of ambient light. If its to bright you can always put on a ND filter to tone it down.

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post #19 of 20 Old 11-26-2013, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

Longer throw means that projector has to be farther away to get a larger image. At 10.5' for a 92" screen the optoma is right in the middle of it zoom range. The Benq would have to moved I/2' closer to get that small of a screen (10'). I don't know which calculator you were looking at but the red is most likely telling you the projector will be very bright for a lot of ambient light. If its to bright you can always put on a ND filter to tone it down.

Awesome...this is exactly the info I was looking for. Looks like the Optoma is the better choice for me, since I am not able to move the projector closer to or farther away from the screen, since it is mounted on my rear wall and a ceiling mount is not an option. Thanks!

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post #20 of 20 Old 12-02-2013, 09:09 PM - Thread Starter
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After going over measurements again in my room, I realized that the biggest screen size I can do is 100" because I am limited in width to ~95" maximum (speaker clearance). This leaves me with the Optoma, which I guess makes me happy in the end because I was leaning towards this one anyway. Only downside is that I would have liked to go with 110", but hopefully that 10" difference won't make too much of a difference.

So now I just have to decide between the Favi HD-100 and the Elite Screens 100H. I like the fact that the Elite is black (it will match/blend in with my screen wall), but more people seem to use, review and say good things about the Favi. Any inputs on this?

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