Looking for 1080p 3d projector - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-01-2013, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I have 13ft from back wall to front wall i want to mount on rear wall.
Looking at the acerhb6510. Or similiar in price.
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-01-2013, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone
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post #3 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 08:39 AM
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I would get the Optoma HD131x or the BenQ W1070 over the Acer in a second.

Keep in mind that you basically picked the cheapest projector in the market so anything that is remotely similar will be a bit more.

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post #4 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 03:30 PM
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How big are you shooting for?

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post #5 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

I would get the Optoma HD131x or the BenQ W1070 over the Acer in a second.

Keep in mind that you basically picked the cheapest projector in the market so anything that is remotely similar will be a bit more.

Sorry to hijack, but I am torn between these two specifically. I plan to have a throw of about 10.5' with the possibility of going 12'. The BenQ will allow me the 110" I was leaning towards, while the Optoma will only allow me about 92"-96". From what I have read on this forum, the Optoma is the accepted "winner" and is ~$100 cheaper, at least.

With 3D being important to me, does the loss of screen size (and cheaper price, although it is not that huge of a deal) make the Optoma a better choice? I can't decide. I know that size is very much appreciated on this forum...

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post #6 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 06:40 PM
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I was once told this on the forum, Should help you out a little,

 

The "required fl" is actually personal preference, but if you you go by the industry standards. For a dark room,the Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers (SMPTE) is 16fl(+ or - 4fl). For 2D in a dark room, with darkened walls, this is the movie industry standard. For 3D, you lose a little over half of your brightness and so the fl needs to be measured through the glasses.

The standard: You want 16fl calibrated for a dark room for 2D and 16fl calibrated through the glasses in 3D for an equivalent 3D picture(21fl is the IMAX standard and the upper end of "bright" for a 2D picture and below 14fl is not recommended for most viewers).
 

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post #7 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 06:55 PM
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Going 96 inches with the Ben Q would give you 30 FL which should be enough to do some 3D viewing. (take this with a grain of salt, I don't do 3D)

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post #8 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 06:58 PM
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You could go with the HD131Xe at 12 feet and get 110 inches and with 35 FL. This seems to be the better option.

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post #9 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks yes i think i will look at the optoma or benq. I think i should spend some more.

Seeing my setup the projector will be right above my head how far up the wall, will i have to mount it so when i sit my eyes will be in the center of the screen.

How about the new epson 2000. The smaller 2030
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorge007 View Post

Thanks yes i think i will look at the optoma or benq. I think i should spend some more.

Seeing my setup the projector will be right above my head how far up the wall, will i have to mount it so when i sit my eyes will be in the center of the screen.

How about the new epson 2000. The smaller 2030
The 2030 has been shown to have pretty poor design. It's not as sharp, by a long shot, compared to the DLP competitors.

Unless you need more size, you have to jump a fair bit in price to get much more quality. If you can find a Sharp Z30000 and can swing it, that's a very nice projector.

The projector height over your head will vary depending on what you choose and where you want your screen and what the screen height is.

Typically, the bottom 1/3 of the image is even with eye level when reclined. So, from that reasoning, you then determine where the top of your screen is, and the W1070 should be about 3" above the top of the screen while the Optoma may need to be 6 or 8 inches above the top. You will need the projector mounted upside down to hit the screen properly. Typically a ceiling mount setup.

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post #11 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTShadow View Post

You could go with the HD131Xe at 12 feet and get 110 inches and with 35 FL. This seems to be the better option.
Yes, but the 12' throw is not a definite yet. I currently have a 10'8" throw as my setup consists of a motorized screen that drops in front of my TV; in order to have clearance, the projector is hanging from brackets that stick out 12" from the wall. I have been considering getting rid of the TV and mounting a fixed screen to that front wall...but if I cannot sell the TV for a decent price then I will end up keeping it. I do agree, though, that if 12' were a definite then the Optoma would be my choice. With that said, I have been thinking that keeping the TV and going with a drop-down screen is more likely than a fixed unit on the wall.

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Originally Posted by HTShadow View Post

Going 96 inches with the Ben Q would give you 30 FL which should be enough to do some 3D viewing. (take this with a grain of salt, I don't do 3D)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HTShadow View Post

I was once told this on the forum, Should help you out a little,

The "required fl" is actually personal preference, but if you you go by the industry standards. For a dark room,the Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers (SMPTE) is 16fl(+ or - 4fl). For 2D in a dark room, with darkened walls, this is the movie industry standard. For 3D, you lose a little over half of your brightness and so the fl needs to be measured through the glasses.


The standard: You want 16fl calibrated for a dark room for 2D and 16fl calibrated through the glasses in 3D for an equivalent 3D picture(21fl is the IMAX standard and the upper end of "bright" for a 2D picture and below 14fl is not recommended for most viewers).

 

You guys lost me the "FL" talk. I keep a simple understanding of it, which basically comes to "if the projector is too bright when turned on then I will buy a ND filter for it." I have no knowledge of FL specifics...

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post #12 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KtrainHurricane View Post

You guys lost me the "FL" talk. I keep a simple understanding of it, which basically comes to "if the projector is too bright when turned on then I will buy a ND filter for it." I have no knowledge of FL specifics...

All you need to know is that you should have plenty of brightness if you intend to use 3D from most of the current 3D projectors if you have a screen size of 110" or less. If getting a new screen, then a positive gain white screen will help with this as well and you definitely can always dial things back if necessary.
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post #13 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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My back wall is alot higher than the front wall which is 8ft. I really dont want to mount it. Can i put it on a shelf in the back wall. See first pic
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