Projector setup vs. high-end TV for a small room? - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 49 Old 01-03-2014, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the updated layout.

 

Throw distance is very limiting so I'm not sure what kind of screen I should buy....

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/111260827@N03/11739071466/lightbox/

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post #32 of 49 Old 01-04-2014, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I've revised my drawings to push the throw distance farther.

Do you guys think I could fit 120" now?

How do the speaker locations look?

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/111260827@N03/11762260144/

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post #33 of 49 Old 01-05-2014, 05:36 AM
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Here is a handy calculator for determining screen size based on viewing distance. This will help you determine the ideal screen size for your home theater based on the room dimensions and your seating position. http://www.projectorscreenstore.com/viewing-distance-calculator.html

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post #34 of 49 Old 01-05-2014, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shnxx View Post
 

 

I've revised my drawings to push the throw distance farther.

Do you guys think I could fit 120" now?

How do the speaker locations look?

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/111260827@N03/11762260144/

Your rear surrounds are too far back. They should be on the left and right side walls back just a short distance from the seating position of the viewer. I can send you a white paper I wrote detailing how to do all this if you send me your email address. I'll private message you with mine.

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post #35 of 49 Old 01-06-2014, 01:02 AM - Thread Starter
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After doing some reading and getting some great free advices from experts such as AV_Integrated, I now have a slightly better idea of what kind of screen to avoid and to look for.

 

Here is my layout

http://www.flickr.com/photos/111260827@N03/11794908586/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/111260827@N03/11794394773/

 

However, I'm still just a little unsure which screen to go with or which installer to use.

As far as I can tell, these are the parameters to choose from

 

Screen

1) Manufacturer: Stewart, Carada, Screen Innovations, Elite, etc

-Really not sure what is better than what other than price... help!

 

2) Size: 100 or 120

-It is possible for me to have 12' throw distance maximum so 120 should be doable right?

 

3) Color (White, gray, black)

-I have white walls (might paint gray) and white ceilings... the room is not enclosed as it is a loft.

 

4) Gain (<1 to 2)

-No idea what to choose

 

4) Mechanism: Electronic tab tensioned or fixed

-I want fixed... But I will move in less than five years, at which time I will want a better (high-end) setup.

So the screen may be left at the house in which case electronic might present better or even if I take it with me, it will be easier to install on a bedroom or in the livingroom over the TV.

 

5) Perforated or not: Probably not necessary

-I can put the speakers underneath the screen but it won't be very close to the ear level. Is this ok?

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post #36 of 49 Old 01-06-2014, 04:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shnxx View Post
 

After doing some reading and getting some great free advices from experts such as AV_Integrated, I now have a slightly better idea of what kind of screen to avoid and to look for.

 

Here is my layout

http://www.flickr.com/photos/111260827@N03/11794908586/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/111260827@N03/11794394773/

 

However, I'm still just a little unsure which screen to go with or which installer to use.

As far as I can tell, these are the parameters to choose from

 

Screen

1) Manufacturer: Stewart, Carada, Screen Innovations, Elite, etc

-Really not sure what is better than what other than price... help!

 

2) Size: 100 or 120

-It is possible for me to have 12' throw distance maximum so 120 should be doable right?

 

3) Color (White, gray, black)

-I have white walls (might paint gray) and white ceilings... the room is not enclosed as it is a loft.

 

4) Gain (<1 to 2)

-No idea what to choose

 

4) Mechanism: Electronic tab tensioned or fixed

-I want fixed... But I will move in less than five years, at which time I will want a better (high-end) setup.

So the screen may be left at the house in which case electronic might present better or even if I take it with me, it will be easier to install on a bedroom or in the livingroom over the TV.

 

5) Perforated or not: Probably not necessary

-I can put the speakers underneath the screen but it won't be very close to the ear level. Is this ok?

Hi Rod,

 

Here's my suggestions on your projected plans.

 

1.  Not sure on which is best for you. I prefer DaLite myself but others are acceptable.

 

2.  You want an immersive viewing angle, 30 degrees is good for this. Try calculating screen size that way. Looks like a 100 inch screen (diagonal measure) would do the job nicely.

 

3.  White walls will allow too much reflected light from the projected image to wash out the dark parts of the image. Try using a neutral grey such as Benjamin Moore Chelsea Grey (matte finish) #HC-168 for the walls and ceiling.

 

4.  Any gain greater than 1.0 will create a hot spot on the screen. You probably won't need a screen with gain above unity for the size appropriate for your loft to get bright images with good contrast.

 

5.  How about using a fixed frame screen mounted on a track so you can slide it out of the way to access the storage door? A simple locking mechanism would keep it in place for projection such as a magnetic end stop so the projected image position is guaranteed when the screen is in place.

 

6.  Perforated screens may create a moire pattern so be careful of which one you choose if you go that route. I don't think mounting your speakers on or near the floor is a good idea especially as you show in your drawing with the speakers in front of your step platform. They should be closer to the plane of the screen. Why not mount the center speaker on the ceiling above the screen and your left and right front speakers hanging from the ceiling just forward of the screen? Leave enough room for you to slide the screen to the right if you decide to go that way.

 

7.  Don't forget to add some acoustic treatments to the walls and ceiling to reduce sound reflections. A bass trap might be helpful too to even out the bass response.

 

Good luck to you

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post #37 of 49 Old 01-06-2014, 04:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telecine-doctor View Post

Hi Rod,

Here's my suggestions on your projected plans.

1.  Not sure on which is best for you. I prefer DaLite myself but others are acceptable.

2.  You want an immersive viewing angle, 30 degrees is good for this. Try calculating screen size that way. Looks like a 100 inch screen (diagonal measure) would do the job nicely.

3.  White walls will allow too much reflected light from the projected image to wash out the dark parts of the image. Try using a neutral grey such as Benjamin Moore Chelsea Grey (matte finish) #HC-168 for the walls and ceiling.

4.  Any gain greater than 1.0 will create a hot spot on the screen. You probably won't need a screen with gain above unity for the size appropriate for your loft to get bright images with good contrast.

5.  How about using a fixed frame screen mounted on a track so you can slide it out of the way to access the storage door? A simple locking mechanism would keep it in place for projection such as a magnetic end stop so the projected image position is guaranteed when the screen is in place.

6.  Perforated screens may create a moire pattern so be careful of which one you choose if you go that route. I don't think mounting your speakers on or near the floor is a good idea especially as you show in your drawing with the speakers in front of your step platform. They should be closer to the plane of the screen. Why not mount the center speaker on the ceiling above the screen and your left and right front speakers hanging from the ceiling just forward of the screen? Leave enough room for you to slide the screen to the right if you decide to go that way.

7.  Don't forget to add some acoustic treatments to the walls and ceiling to reduce sound reflections. A bass trap might be helpful too to even out the bass response.

Good luck to you

Ah great.
Thank you again.

What do you think is a good gain and color of the screen for such a room?
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post #38 of 49 Old 01-06-2014, 04:33 AM
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Color of screen? Matte white is best for most applications. Gain of unity or 1.0 will give uniform image brightness acres the screen from all angles. Did you receive my email and attachment? The file was large so it may have been blocked by your ISP.

 

Dave

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post #39 of 49 Old 01-07-2014, 04:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes I got your email and the PDF thank you!

I have decided to go with a electronic tab-tensioned screen.and possibly paint the ceiling with grey.

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post #40 of 49 Old 01-15-2014, 04:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow this quote is out of this stratosphere!

 

 

DragonflyTM Mot Tab 103in Matte White Screen(16:10) Dragonfly by SnapAV DFM-TAB-103-MW-1610

DragonflyTM Motorized Tab Tension 103 in. Matte White Projection Screen (16:10 Aspect Ratio) 

$1,999.99 

 

StrongTM Universal Projector Mount (Blk)
Strong by SnapAV SM-PROJ-L-BLK
StrongTM Universal Projector Mount for Projectors Up To 50 lbs (Black) 

$199.00 

 

Strong® Small Adjustable Extension Pole [Black]

Strong by SnapAV SM-ADJPOLE-S-BLK

Strong® Small Adjustable Extension Pole [Black] 

$79.00 

 

BinaryTM B4 HDMI® Cable 7.5M (24.61 ft)

Binary by SnapAV B4-HD-7.5

BinaryTM B4-Series High Speed HDMI® Cable with Ethernet 7.5 Meter (24.61 ft.) 

$99.99 

 

WattBoxTM Recessed Duplex Rcpt(WHT)
WattBox by SnapAV WB-100-IW-2-WHT
WattBoxTM Recessed Duplex Recaptacle with Wallplate and Single Gang Box (White) 

$39.90 x 2

 

Installation Labor
Theater Monster LLC Install Labor Speaker Installation 

$375.00 x 5

WTF

 

Episode® Swivel Ball Bracket (Black | Pair)

Episode by SnapAV ES-BRKT-BALL-BLK

Episode® Swivel Ball Bracket for Bookshelf Speakers up to 10 lbs (Black | Pair) 

$147.50 x 2

 

StrongTM Contrctr 12U Rack w/Side Pnls & Casters
Strong by SnapAV SR-CS-RACK-12U
StrongTM 12U Metal Rack with Fully Enclosed Sides and 3in Locking Casters (Black) 

$197.10 

 

StrongTM Fixed Rack Shelf 1U
Strong by SnapAV SR-SHELF-FIXED-1U StrongTM Fixed Metal Rack Shelf 2U (Black) 

$99.90  x 2

 

StrongTM Fixed Rack Shelf 2U
Strong by SnapAV SR-SHELF-FIXED-2U StrongTM Fixed Metal Rack Shelf 2U (Black) 

$139.90 x 2

 

StrongTM Fixed Rack Shelf 4U
Strong by SnapAV SR-SHELF-FIXED-4U StrongTM Fixed Metal Rack Shelf 4U (Black) 

$89.95 

 

WattboxTM Power Conditioner - 9 Outlets WattBox by SnapAV WB-200-9HTR

WattboxTM Power Conditioner - 9 Outlets - 5400 Joules - EMI/RFI Noise Filtration - 3 Coax, 1 Ethernet, 1 Phone " 

279.00 

 

StrongTM Rack Horiz 2" Lacing L Bar (BLK|5 Pack)
Strong by SnapAV SR-LACEBAR-H-OFF2
StrongTM Rack Horizontal 2"" Offset Lacing L Bar (Black | Pack of 5)" 

$29.95 

 

BG-KON-102 BoraGear Kona I individual equipment cooling syst BoraGear BG-KON-102

The Kona I has several unique design features that make it extremely quiet: offset fans, vibration isolation, and the quietest fan cores available. And with the Kona I, installers will never need more than 1U space above any piece of equipment, no matter how much heat the equipment produces. Flowing a true 20 cfm in the most efficient way possible – across the gear – the Kona I truly extends the life of your equipment and saves precious rack space. 

$219.00 

 

 

Drywall Patch and Texture Theater Monster LLC Install Labor

Drywall Patch and Texture 

$500.00 

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post #41 of 49 Old 01-15-2014, 06:29 PM
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What did you think you were gonna get on a professional quote?
Your not going to get $30 mono price stands and $8 mono price hdmi cables and Mexican labor rates from a professional av shop.

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post #42 of 49 Old 01-15-2014, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Haha. The whole quote came out to be 10K. I guess I underestimated the cost a little.

 

But I will be deciding between this quote and the Magnolia one.

Although I love the idea of having a home projector setup with surround sounds, this is costing a lot more than I had hoped.

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post #43 of 49 Old 01-15-2014, 07:10 PM
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You can do it for cheaper if you budget shop on components and hook up on your own.

Money adds up quick, but it doesn't have to be $10k either.
Do you have any of your audio yet?

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post #44 of 49 Old 01-15-2014, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PM-Performance View Post

You can do it for cheaper if you budget shop on components and hook up on your own.

Money adds up quick, but it doesn't have to be $10k either.
Do you have any of your audio yet?

 

Yes I already have projector, AV receiver, 5.1 speaker set and speaker cables.

In retrospect I don't know if I should've bought those since I was not going to install them myself.

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post #45 of 49 Old 01-15-2014, 07:25 PM
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Just plan it out and plug the stuff in and go. Unless you are making a true theater. But doesn't sound like anything crazy from the quote.

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post #46 of 49 Old 01-15-2014, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah there isn't any high-end equipment but I just don't want to tear down the wall myself and drill things into wall myself.

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post #47 of 49 Old 01-15-2014, 08:59 PM
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Going into the wall isn't the only way to do cables. I run tracks in my living room and paint match.

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post #48 of 49 Old 01-15-2014, 09:15 PM
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I would keep looking for quotes if that's the BS you are getting. I get a lot of people who tell me my quotes are high, and I do use HDMI cables which run under $30 for most of the lengths, and I've got no idea what some of that other ridiculous stuff is. Speaker installation typically takes about an hour per speaker (full unboxing, measuring, cut-in, termination, and clean up. So $375 is ridiculous, unless that includes in-wall wiring, which may make it in line.

At the end of the day, there are always other solutions. About four weeks and I'm out your way. biggrin.gif

AV Integrated - Theater, whole house audio, and technology installation in the Washington DC metro area.
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post #49 of 49 Old 01-16-2014, 12:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I would keep looking for quotes if that's the BS you are getting. I get a lot of people who tell me my quotes are high, and I do use HDMI cables which run under $30 for most of the lengths, and I've got no idea what some of that other ridiculous stuff is. Speaker installation typically takes about an hour per speaker (full unboxing, measuring, cut-in, termination, and clean up. So $375 is ridiculous, unless that includes in-wall wiring, which may make it in line.

At the end of the day, there are always other solutions. About four weeks and I'm out your way. biggrin.gif

Yeah maybe I will wait until you come.
That was the most expensive quote so far!
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