Let me see your ceiling mounts - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 07-02-2014, 12:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Let me see your ceiling mounts

Hi everyone I am planning my first projector install for my living room with 10' ceilings. I am looking for ideas on how to aesthetically mount my projector to the ceiling. The room is painted white and that will not change since it is in the middle of the house and a through way to the family room and kitchen. The room is about 22' long and 13' wide. I plan to suspend the projector about 15' back from the screen in the middle of the room. I have estimated that I will need about a 24" drop from the ceiling to be able to lens shift down to the center of a 120" diagonal 16x9 screen

Since I would like to have the projector and the mount disappear into the white ceiling i need some ideas on how to do this.
  1. Can I literally only have the 1.5" NPT post coming out of the ceiling while both the power cord, HDMI, and ethernet come down through the post to the projector?
  2. should I just use a round ceiling plate (white of course) and just bolt it to a joist? With power and HDMI coming from a receptacle near by?
  3. Is there a way to avoid having a receptacle on the ceiling?

Let me see what you have done to make your mounts as invisible as possible.
Attached is a couple pics of the room (front and back)

The projector would be suspended between the 2 recessed lights.

BTW I plan on getting a mostly white projector as well

Thanks for your ideas,
Mike
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post #2 of 16 Old 07-02-2014, 01:01 AM
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This picture is when I first installed the PJ into my ceiling a few weeks ago. I just made a mount off the joists as I had access from above so it made it very easy.
I hadn't put the supplied trim around the mounting pole etc but I do like the clean look of the pole going into the ceiling and I get the benefit of the cables (power, Ethernet & 2 x HDMI) being hidden inside the pole.

After I mounted it I gutted the room to start soundproofing it hence the pic with no ceiling there.
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post #3 of 16 Old 07-02-2014, 02:13 PM
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I wouldn't say mine is pretty, but it gets the job done. leftover part from when I had a white projector, white walls, and a white ceiling. probably should paint it, but never got around to it.




I was not able to run the hdmi cable through the ceiling, which is the only reason it's not going through the mount
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post #4 of 16 Old 07-02-2014, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mprother View Post
  1. Can I literally only have the 1.5" NPT post coming out of the ceiling while both the power cord, HDMI, and ethernet come down through the post to the projector?
  2. should I just use a round ceiling plate (white of course) and just bolt it to a joist? With power and HDMI coming from a receptacle near by?
  3. Is there a way to avoid having a receptacle on the ceiling?
In the US AFAIK it is against fire code for the power cord to run through the NPT pipe to the other side of the drywall.

Use a single outlet and a white power cord, it will be virtually invisible IMHO.

- Jeff

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post #5 of 16 Old 07-02-2014, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIKED View Post
This picture is when I first installed the PJ into my ceiling a few weeks ago. I just made a mount off the joists as I had access from above so it made it very easy.
I hadn't put the supplied trim around the mounting pole etc but I do like the clean look of the pole going into the ceiling and I get the benefit of the cables (power, Ethernet & 2 x HDMI) being hidden inside the pole.

After I mounted it I gutted the room to start soundproofing it hence the pic with no ceiling there.
Thanks for the pic Wiked.. I like the look and would like to achieve something similar although I do not have access from above since it is a lower floor of a 2 story house.

I have a few questions for you:
  • * Which ceiling plate did you use to mount between the joists?
    * Do you have any pics from inside the attic?
    * Also how did you wire up the power do you have a socket in the attic or did you just splice together the power cord to some romex?

Thanks,
-Mike
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post #6 of 16 Old 07-02-2014, 06:46 PM
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I will have quite a low ceiling by the time I put the sound isolation clips, metal battens and double drywall. So with a finished ceiling height of only 7'3" to play with I am in the process of recessing the projector to fit between the joists so that I can still run a 110" screen which will be 20" off the ground.

the Projector mount is similar to one sold by Monoprice and allows you to run the cables through it. Cables will come in from the side in the recess.

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post #7 of 16 Old 07-02-2014, 08:55 PM
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Here's my setup... Yeah, it hides nicely.

Outside the ceiling and inside...
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post #8 of 16 Old 07-02-2014, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mprother View Post
Thanks for the pic Wiked.. I like the look and would like to achieve something similar although I do not have access from above since it is a lower floor of a 2 story house.

I have a few questions for you:
  • * Which ceiling plate did you use to mount between the joists?
    * Do you have any pics from inside the attic?
    * Also how did you wire up the power do you have a socket in the attic or did you just splice together the power cord to some romex?

Thanks,
-Mike
Mike,

I live in Australia and I have a 2 story house and my theatre room is downstairs at the front of the house near the front door. I had access to the room's ceiling by cutting a piece out of the floor upstairs in my billiard room that is above. Then drilled the hole (51mm or 2") and then made the brace for the bracket to be secured to. I was lucky to have access for this but since I was always going to pull the ceiling down anyway to soundproof the room it wasn't a real drama.
The PJ bracket is used was custom designed for the VW500ES by a company here but they are available on a European website. It was thrown in for free when I purchased the PJ from them so I was happy as it retails for around $700.
If I were in North America I would be using the Chief mount for sure as recommended by many on here.

My PJ has a 'switched' plug in the ceiling. If I ever need to turn off the PJ (which I will every night) then I have a switch on the wall that cuts all power to it and all my speakers (Meridian) and anything that I have connected to a 'switched' power point at the back of my rack.
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post #9 of 16 Old 07-03-2014, 10:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIKED View Post
Mike,

I live in Australia and I have a 2 story house and my theatre room is downstairs at the front of the house near the front door. I had access to the room's ceiling by cutting a piece out of the floor upstairs in my billiard room that is above. Then drilled the hole (51mm or 2") and then made the brace for the bracket to be secured to. I was lucky to have access for this but since I was always going to pull the ceiling down anyway to soundproof the room it wasn't a real drama.
The PJ bracket is used was custom designed for the VW500ES by a company here but they are available on a European website. It was thrown in for free when I purchased the PJ from them so I was happy as it retails for around $700.
If I were in North America I would be using the Chief mount for sure as recommended by many on here.

My PJ has a 'switched' plug in the ceiling. If I ever need to turn off the PJ (which I will every night) then I have a switch on the wall that cuts all power to it and all my speakers (Meridian) and anything that I have connected to a 'switched' power point at the back of my rack.
Thanks Wiked, the pictures are worth a thousand words.. As jjcook mentioned I think it might be against US code to have any elecrical connection behind closed walls, but I like the switch power idea as it sounds pretty safe.

-Mike
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post #10 of 16 Old 07-03-2014, 10:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post
Here's my setup... Yeah, it hides nicely.

Outside the ceiling and inside...
What kind of lift motor is that? How much drop can you achieve? I might have enough room to do something similar in my ceiling.. How are you controlling it?

Thanks..
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post #11 of 16 Old 07-04-2014, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mprother View Post
Thanks Wiked, the pictures are worth a thousand words.. As jjcook mentioned I think it might be against US code to have any electrical connection behind closed walls, but I like the switch power idea as it sounds pretty safe.

-Mike
Thanks.
Yes it's illegal here to do any electrical stuff. You need to use a licensed electrician. You can have a power point behind a closed wall though if you have it on a switched circuit.
The picture I have attached is the power point for my LED strip lighting in the soffit I will build etc. It is on a switch on the wall so it is legal here. My PJ, future Star field & screen masking has the same type of outlet etc. Gotta plan for the future things you will do I guess.

I decided to drill the hole in the new ceiling today and temporarily install the bracket with the trim piece to see how it looks. Had a movie running to the PJ from upstairs where my Oppo 105 is sitting until the theatre is finished. I really love how the cables are hidden in the pipe as to me it really makes it much cleaner. Shame you guys can't do that over there (if you wanted to).

Anyway good luck with yours and I am sure you will do a great job.
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-06-2014, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mprother View Post
What kind of lift motor is that? How much drop can you achieve? I might have enough room to do something similar in my ceiling.. How are you controlling it?

Thanks..
Unfortunately, it can only do about a foot of drop. I use a motorized car jack and built the rest of it myself. It actually comes with an 'up/down' control (since it's designed for that), but I have it tied into a control system which I have set to lower it about 3" automatically. It's really noisy as well.

I'm looking to figure out how to make some sort of quieter scissor jack if I can at some point. It's not like they make these parts really, so that's a big issue. I do know there are lift manufacturers ($$$) which can make stuff with decent drop distances which can go between studs. But, since I only needed a few inches, this worked out nicely for under $200 total.


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post #13 of 16 Old 07-06-2014, 05:00 PM
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It was great you made it yourself anyway. Well done. I was thinking about that myself too but the centre of my room is a little off centre [about 6"] from the middle of my joist space.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
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post #14 of 16 Old 07-06-2014, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WIKED View Post
It was great you made it yourself anyway. Well done. I was thinking about that myself too but the centre of my room is a little off centre [about 6"] from the middle of my joist space.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info.. Found this on Harbor Freight that might be able to be converted into a lift with a small electric motor.

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
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post #15 of 16 Old 07-06-2014, 10:21 PM
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Chief Manufacturing universal mount.

My system:
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post #16 of 16 Old 07-08-2014, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mprother View Post
Thanks for the info.. Found this on Harbor Freight that might be able to be converted into a lift with a small electric motor.

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
That's pretty cool.

I needed to JUST clear my ceiling as I needed the lens as close to the ceiling as possible, so it all worked out, but I'm really into the concept of a much better overall mechanism. Still, the fully motorized car jack was under $80 and I added a transformer with enough juice to power that lift, the aluminum rods, a Chief RPM mount inside, and the wood for it all. But, the scissors you have in your link are really nice. It would be great to be able to buy the pieces to make a DiY mount that actually made sense and was affordable. A scissor mechanism and a motor that could handle a sub 50 pound projector would be ideal. I think my lift could probably lift ME along with the projector!


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