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Old 07-08-2014, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Best 300"+ projector

I was curious as to what projector would be good to 300" or more to put on the side of a building at night?
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Old 07-08-2014, 02:53 PM
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At 300" you are pushing the limits of a home theater projector. If you want something watchable you need a commercial projector like a Christy with 7000+ lumens. What's your budget, 6K for a used Christy is reasonably achieved.
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:12 PM
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not to mention outside is far from ideal. using the same projector I used inside to project a 120" image, I found even 80" to be pretty unwatchable outside. believe it or not, it's kinda bright at night outside, compared to a theater
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:40 PM - Thread Starter
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What is the max size achievable using a home theater projector?
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:01 PM
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If the area is far out enough to have low light pollution and the moon is either clouded, at a different side, or slivered small enough to not be assaulting you with its presence you can get away with a lot. If you've got any light problems though, you'll be out of luck at that size.



This is 340"-345" with about 400lumens. There's a fire burning several feet to the left, but the moon wasn't hitting the "screen" so there isn't any major light to wash it out. Eyes adjust better to the dark than cheapo cellphone cameras and this looks significantly brighter in person, but streetlamps, headlights, neighbors' garage lights, the moon..any of that would've made it pretty much impossible.

Also, if this isn't a regular thing for you..go out in the area you're planning on at night. Make sure you can stand the bugs before making any plans.
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Good point about the bugs. I think moonlight may be an issue depending on its phase.

The wall is yellow brick.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reckless7 View Post
What is the max size achievable using a home theater projector?
Most projectors can focus out to the size of a drive-in or more, so the main limiter is brightness.
In a dark enough space, brightness is a fairly individual thing as long as dark details are visible enough to not strain the eyes. The standard peak-white brightness that theaters aim for is usually between 12-16 ftL which means the number of measured lumens divided by the square-footage of the screen should equal about 14. If the surface has shine/gain to it or a darker than white negative gain, you multiply the ftl by that peak-gain number to get the most accurate result.

For instance..the w1070 puts out around 1400lumens, and I have a 300" wall which means a 16:9 image of 22ft wide by 12ft tall..so a 264ft-square image. So I divide 1400lm by 264 and get 5.3ftL. My wall is actually a very light grey and not white, so I'm really working with a below 1gain surface..more likely .7gain which means I multiply 5.3ftL by 0.7gain and am really only getting 3.7ftL.
That's about 1/3 as bright as a theater.

Here's where it gets individual, 3.7ftL in a dark space means the w1070's darks will be around 0.002ftL which is still well above the 0.00087ftL point where everything looks pitch-black, so there's still plenty of light left for comfortable shadow detail without raising your brightness..but many do not care for an image this dim. I personally enjoy it and haven't had anyone complain (in fact it's the opposite where the brightness has been commented on positively) which goes to show that people will have different preferences.

The biggest thing I'd recommend if you're playing with a large image, is to make sure you have a gamma control that you can nudge brighter if you feel like you're squinting at dark scenes. Just a little goes a long way and it won't ruin your black floor like turning brightness up.

Last edited by Ftoast; 07-08-2014 at 06:22 PM.
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