Need advice on Projector - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 42 Old 07-30-2014, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Cartoys View Post
Never really thought about the JVC X35 is this the newer version of rs46?
Also, same problem I'm having with the Sony is that my throw distance is pretty maxed out and not sure if it can be usable in my situation. Playing with the calculator at projector central it seems to be stretching it.

This is dropping it down to 100", from what I originally wanted of 110" screen
Well the X35 and RS46 are the same machine. One difference is the X35 has a silver ring around the lens and the RS46 has a gold ring around the lens. The other difference is the X35 is sold mainly through custom installers and the RS46 are sold more through retailers. So they are basically the same machine.
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post #32 of 42 Old 07-30-2014, 11:40 AM
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"Lol, says the non-newbie (oldie? ) that couldn't read the 'Ceiling Height' off a diagram "

Yep, I'm an oldie all right. Built my first HT 15 years ago based on advice from helpful AVS forum members and am on my third room, third projector, second screen, fifth AVR, second SW. But my large tower speakers have carried over through it all, so I never ASSUME people are going to buy all new components.

You might notice that in the drawing the ceiling height is the only dimension NOT provided in standard "<--- d --->" format for architectural drawings, and the 7' 4" figure is. In my comment, I used the 8' figure but questioned the 7' 4" figure -- it could be a lower height where the projector would be placed. Basements have plumbing, duct work, etc. that often result in lower ceiling height in one area than another. It never hurts to double check, and it often does hurt to make assumptions.

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post #33 of 42 Old 07-30-2014, 11:56 AM
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"But it's moot, though, since the OP was wise enough to take that into account with his original screen-size target regardless.

Don't think in terms of the W1080; rather follow the above recommendations here and do your calculations with the W1070, which would put anything from 92" all the way up to 120" from 10ft."

Really ? A 120" screen with frame is 9' wide. He already has large tower speakers. According to his new drawing, they are 12.5" wide each, subtracting from a 10' 4" room, leaving only 8' between them assuming they are not actually in contact with the walls (which with towers is a bad thing BTW). Even a 110" will be tight with those speakers in place.

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post #34 of 42 Old 07-30-2014, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
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Really ? A 120" screen with frame is 9' wide. He already has large tower speakers. According to his new drawing, they are 12.5" wide each, subtracting from a 10' 4" room, leaving only 8' between them assuming they are not actually in contact with the walls (which with towers is a bad thing BTW). Even a 110" will be tight with those speakers in place.
We've already established we're looking at around the 110"-diagonal mark. I was describing the entire screen-size range available from the projector at the desired distance.

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If you want to investigate other options, here is a list of all projectors that can hit 110" from 10 ft.
B and H is selling the BENQw1500 for 1299.
The W1500 is a rather nice option. Check here for a comparative review between the W1070 and W1500.

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The Epson 2030 2D/3D (2nd on that list) is at BestBuy for $850 also.
Also a nice option; but reviews indicate this is perhaps a step down from the W1500/W1070 in picture quality; due mainly to its relatively low measured-contrast figures (it's not that great with black levels either...). A catch with the Epson is also that it's throw angle (when ceiling-mounted) places a portion of the image above the projector (rather than the more standard 'positive-offset' of most projectors, which keeps the image below the height of the lens). This will require it to be mounted quite a bit mounted lower than the other options; which is something to consider.
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post #35 of 42 Old 07-30-2014, 01:33 PM
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As for getting a Stewart screen, don't bother. Stewart DOES make fantastic screens but a smooth, 1.0gain white screen will be the same no matter who makes it and it WILL be the best performer in your dark room. I wouldn't pay a premium over a name for a smooth white screen. DO get either a fixed/solid frame or paint on wall..a rollup screen will wrinkle and the tab-tension ones cost more for something you don't need (no need to roll up a screen in a dedicated room).

If you have the money for the Sony 40es, it IS the projector to get if you can afford it. Great color, brightness, contrast, 3D, and it even games well (probably the nicest looking projector that does). If it does 100"-105" in your room and you can afford it...DO IT! Move your seating one foot forward and it'll look just as big as the 110" but with better contrast and black-levels than the w1070.

If you need cheap, get the w1070. If you can afford $2000-2500, get the Sony 40es. If you can afford $3500 AND don't game, get a JVC.
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Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #36 of 42 Old 07-30-2014, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Appreciate it and it has helped a lot. I think I will most likely get the Sony, great PQ,Contrast plus it is quiet. Which I think is also very important considering I'll be placing it right above my head.

FToast great suggestion on the part of not paying a premium on the Stewart screen. Never knew that PQ would be the same if the gain was so small on a white screen regardless of brands. Very interesting! Could you perhaps suggest a few screens brands and models I can look into?

Thanks
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post #37 of 42 Old 07-30-2014, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartoys View Post
... great suggestion on the part of not paying a premium on the Stewart screen. Never knew that PQ would be the same if the gain was so small on a white screen regardless of brands. Very interesting! Could you perhaps suggest a few screens brands and models I can look into?
There's one tricky thing to watch out for; the screen NEEDS to be smooth. Many manufacturers tend to make their screens with a bit of texture, and a little texture (think sandpaper) is fine for a bright white screen with natural gain around 0.95, but many manufacturers use a nearly cloth-like texture and a slightly offwhite with gain artificially boosted back up to 0.95 or even 1.3(usually from a slight shine) and that slight shine makes the texture become very visible during brighter scenes. Because it is impossible to know if the gain on a white screen is totally natural or if it's from a slight shine, the safest thing to do is get a smooth one that can't show texture anyway.

Part of the reason I suggest painting, is because even a cheap lightbase flat-white interior latex will give that perfect natural 0.9-0.95gain that hides slight texture, doesn't hotspot at all, gives perfect uniformity and viewing angles.

One of the white material Elite Screens is flat I believe, and a fixed frame version will run around $300. Many nicer brands that may perform slightly better (usually a better made frame..though if you're just setting it up and leaving it, it shouldn't matter) will cost roughly twice as much and I think the Stewart runs closer to $1000. Painting should cost around $20 for everything, take 5minutes of rolling followed by an hour of dry-time and likely a second 5minute coat..wait another hour or two aaaand you're good.
Usually AV_integrated mentions a couple nicer white screens, but my memory is fuzzy on what they are..hopefully he'll pay a visit. I want to say one is the Carada Citrion brilliant white.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.

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post #38 of 42 Old 09-06-2014, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey everyone,

I'm trying to calculate the throw distance on the projector central website.

When I use the throw range calculator, do I have to take in account the projector size?

Meaning, the throw distance, is that being calculated from the front of the lens?

Eg. Sony projector is 18 inches in depth, so 11 feet 8 inches (room length) subtract 18 inches means I have 10 feet left... then minus the thickness of the projector screen... 9 feet 10 inches maximum?

Thanks.
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post #39 of 42 Old 09-06-2014, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartoys View Post
Hey everyone,

I'm trying to calculate the throw distance on the projector central website.

When I use the throw range calculator, do I have to take in account the projector size?

Meaning, the throw distance, is that being calculated from the front of the lens?

Eg. Sony projector is 18 inches in depth, so 11 feet 8 inches (room length) subtract 18 inches means I have 10 feet left... then minus the thickness of the projector screen... 9 feet 10 inches maximum?

Thanks.
Yes. The throw is from the front of the lens to the screen surface. Your measurements are pretty dead on. if you give the projector an extra inch or two breathing room in the back, then we're talking 9 feet 8 inches. It looks like the biggest screen you can have is about 98 inches diagonal. If you have the projector flush against the wall, you might be able to squeeze in 100 inches.
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post #40 of 42 Old 09-07-2014, 06:33 AM
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After rechecking my screen a few minutes ago, I've measured the distance of my screen surface to the wall at 0.5 inches. All the fixed frame screens I've seen try to get the screen as close to the wall as possible, so you can figure a screen distance to the wall at maybe .75 inches or less. So if you put your projector right up against the back wall, I think you'll have a little over 9 feet 11 inches of throw. (Every extra inch helps) Which means 100 inches is possible.
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post #41 of 42 Old 09-08-2014, 02:38 AM - Thread Starter
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What would you pick ?

1. JVC X35 92" Screen
2. Sony HW40ES 96" Screen (Custom size=$$$)
3. Epson 5030UB 100" Screen
4.Panasonic AE8000 100" Screen
5. BenQ W1070 115" Screen

Numbers 1-4 Zoom is 95% maxed out! So, drawbacks to that?
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post #42 of 42 Old 09-08-2014, 04:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartoys View Post
What would you pick ?

1. JVC X35 92" Screen
2. Sony HW40ES 96" Screen (Custom size=$$$)
3. Epson 5030UB 100" Screen
4.Panasonic AE8000 100" Screen
5. BenQ W1070 115" Screen

Numbers 1-4 Zoom is 95% maxed out! So, drawbacks to that?
In a dark room, the first four are better than the w1070, but if you want a screen bigger than 100 inches, that's the way to go. And it's not a bad way to go.
Zoom lenses have their best performance in the middle of their zoom range. At the wide angle end, lots of light is coming through at the expense of some sharpness. At the extreme telephoto end, the lens will start to lose sharpness and light output. The middle of the range gives you the best combination of sharpness and light output.
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