Would a projector work in this room? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-03-2014, 07:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Would a projector work in this room?

My first floor is open concept with a fair amount of light.
The living room is 17'3" long by 11'1" wide, however, on the one wall that I could project to there is a 3'7" walk through so I would have at most 7'8" to project on to. On the ceiling there is a light but that's about 5.5". The ceiling is 8' high.

As far as mounting the projector, I probably could not mount it at the far end of the room as the house has a larger first floor than second and hence a lower roof on that part) -- I would probably mount the projector about 11' back or if I had some creativity, a bit farther.

I had previously had an InFocus SP5000HD installed in the room and daylight viewing was a challenge (that was almost 10 years ago) with all my curtains pulled (though I have better curtains now, some blackout). I still will get some light seepage as it's an open concept house.

I was looking at the Benq w1070 or possibly the 1080st but am unsure if these would work adequately?

Should I stay with my LED flatscreen or make the jump back into a projector. The price points are very attractive but am I stuck with the same issues I had nearly 10 years ago with the InFocus?

Thoughts on additional projectors?
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post #2 of 17 Old 08-03-2014, 07:46 AM
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The modern projectors you're looking at have nearly double the brightness of your old projector (in practice, that's almost as bright as you can go in this price bracket): but I suspect it's still not going to be sufficient if your results with your previous projector were that poor...

Unless you have a means to drop the amount of light landing on the screen area to the point where you'd have trouble with, say, reading against the wall - then the image is going to wash out pretty badly during the day.

I'd stick to your flatscreen for daytime viewing.

A dual-setup, however, might be an option (TV for the day; projector at night) if you can make a plan to do so in your room.

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post #3 of 17 Old 08-03-2014, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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It wasn't horrible when I was watching, just got some colors washed out.
Since then, I have a blackout shades on one window and new blinds, it seems fairly dark now, is there a light level that is minimally acceptable?
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post #4 of 17 Old 08-03-2014, 08:30 AM
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Perhaps you could try painting a wall some sort of metallic/reflective black?
Unless you can afford the prohibitively expensive Black Diamond from Screen Innovations

I'd experiment with smaller samples first though before investing in a diy black screen.
Here is a neat thread on the concept of diy light rejecting screens:
DIY black screen tests
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post #5 of 17 Old 08-03-2014, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm thinking now of hanging black out cloth over my rear sliders (where the most light leak comes from) and then create some make shift blackout curtains in each entryway area. That should give me sufficient black level.

I may just be talking myself into getting a projector
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-03-2014, 11:27 AM
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I have a huge bay window in my living room. About 6 feet wide by 5 feet tall. I mounted my epson 3010 first at 11.9 feet for 120" image. It was quite bright. Then moved to a 5030 and will blinds closed a bit I got the picture that would work quite well. It can be a little washed but anything with light on it will be washed.
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-03-2014, 06:18 PM
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Be prepared to control your light in the space, or accept the quality loss that goes along with it.

This isn't a yes/no situation, it's a choice. Realistically, you know the choice, and you know what's up. While the newest projectors are brighter than what you've had years ago, they don't get around physics... and it would be stupid to spend any money on a Black Diamond screen if you actually cared about quality.

Good window coverings are the best solution. As are darker paints. But, you have choices, and knowledge is your guidance on this.

I ended up with a dual setup in my last home. Plasma + front projection. It's a really good 'compromise'.


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post #8 of 17 Old 08-03-2014, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macattackman View Post
My first floor is open concept with a fair amount of light.
The living room is 17'3" long by 11'1" wide, however, on the one wall that I could project to there is a 3'7" walk through so I would have at most 7'8" to project on to. On the ceiling there is a light but that's about 5.5". The ceiling is 8' high.

Thoughts on additional projectors?
I don't have thoughts on projectors, but I other strange thoughts.

1) Is the walkthru needed during projector use ? If not, then an electric retractable tab tensioned screen would let you use the whole wall. With only 7' 8" width, you will max out at a 100" screen, but a 120" is possible with a retractable screen.

2) Have you considered created a room within a room to achieve light control ? Having a thick curtain following a track along the ceiling to block light leakage from other rooms ?

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post #9 of 17 Old 08-05-2014, 03:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I like the idea of a retractable screen, I found the following on amazon, the price point doesn't seem bad either: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2RFSIF56F6W5J

I was thinking of putting a curtain rod on each open walkway and then hang blackout cloth there, that should give me decent light control
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post #10 of 17 Old 08-06-2014, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macattackman View Post
I like the idea of a retractable screen, I found the following on amazon, the price point doesn't seem bad either: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2RFSIF56F6W5J

I was thinking of putting a curtain rod on each open walkway and then hang blackout cloth there, that should give me decent light control
The price is good but the performance is bad.

Retractable screens do not stay flat unless they are tab-tensioned. Those are a bit more expensive. Still, if the doorway it blocks when it is down leads to the only bathroom, it isn't really practical, so you need to think about how often blocking the doorway will be a problem.

Like this, although the Antra brand is new to me. $500 or so.
http://www.amazon.com/Tensioned-Proj...nsioned+screen

Visual Apex makes them a bit more expensive and Draper and Elite make them very expensive.

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post #11 of 17 Old 08-06-2014, 03:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
The price is good but the performance is bad.

Retractable screens do not stay flat unless they are tab-tensioned. Those are a bit more expensive. Still, if the doorway it blocks when it is down leads to the only bathroom, it isn't really practical, so you need to think about how often blocking the doorway will be a problem.

Like this, although the Antra brand is new to me. $500 or so.
http://www.amazon.com/Tensioned-Proj...nsioned+screen

Visual Apex makes them a bit more expensive and Draper and Elite make them very expensive.
Thanks for the pointers. About the maximum I can do in the room would be a 100-106" screen. There are exits in both the front and back of the room where the projector would go. With a 106" screen, there would be roughly 20" of clearance on each side of the screen, effectively blocking off the front exit (unless you limbo under)

With a couple of curtains, I believe I can achieve very decent light control, with a little seepage around the edges of treated areas.

I was looking at some of the Elite tensioned screens and found what I think might be a decent deal for a remote controlled one:

http://www.projectorpeople.com/Elite...2/Screen/22913

I'm ok spending about the same for the screen as the PJ but want to make sure I'm buying the right stuff for my application.

I can make sure no one goes through the front entrance when a movie is playing -- I'll put a stop sign or some sort of barrier up
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post #12 of 17 Old 08-06-2014, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
The price is good but the performance is bad.

Retractable screens do not stay flat unless they are tab-tensioned. Those are a bit more expensive. Still, if the doorway it blocks when it is down leads to the only bathroom, it isn't really practical, so you need to think about how often blocking the doorway will be a problem.

Like this, although the Antra brand is new to me. $500 or so.
http://www.amazon.com/Tensioned-Proj...nsioned+screen

Visual Apex makes them a bit more expensive and Draper and Elite make them very expensive.
You MUST get a tab-tensioned screen. I have a Da-Lite up since the beginning of the year, and really like it. I might have gone Seymour (good rep and local to me) but I waited until the last minute

But I love the retractable screen. Adds to the WOW factor when people see it come down (or up)

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post #13 of 17 Old 08-06-2014, 08:14 AM
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I am running my projector in my living room with 3 large windows with relatively dark curtains. I realize that it is not perfect for daytime viewing, but depending on the content, it is not bad at all. If we are watching shows that are mainly brightly lit, they look great. Switching to dynamic mode on the projector instead of a calibrated setting also greatly improved daytime viewing.

I'd say go for it.

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post #14 of 17 Old 08-06-2014, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Placed an order for the Benq W1070 and should have it in a couple of days
Next order of business is a retractable tensioned screen.
This is on the first floor and the living room has a slider at the far end, which will be covered in blackout cloth.
The two entrances into the living room will have blackout drapes installed, so it shouldn't be too too bright
Now, which screen, hmmm
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post #15 of 17 Old 08-06-2014, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Now I'm thinking of the following screen: http://www.visualapex.com/Projector-...er=VAPEX9106TN
seem reasonable?
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post #16 of 17 Old 08-06-2014, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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went with the 106" apex tensioned screen..
if anyone is interested, can update thread with images/thoughts after everything is set up -- which is probably at least a week or 2 from now
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post #17 of 17 Old 08-06-2014, 09:43 PM
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Seems a little small to me. You have 11' width, right ? With the speakers pulled away from the wall behind the screen, the "tab-tensioned" side pieces can come down behind the speakers, which means you can go with a full 120" diagonal screen without worrying about light hitting the speakers.

Trust me, you are more likely to regret going too small than too large.

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