Signal path to Optoma EzPro 753 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-19-2002, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the following gear...

- Denon DVD-900 single disc or DVM-1805 5 disc Player (Both with DCDi by Fj)
- Denon AVR-1803 with 27Mhz component switching
- Optoma EzPro 753 (ceiling mounted, no hush box)
- Draper Targa 4:3 with AT1200 fabric and a 16" drop (accoustically transparent, 1.2 gain)
- Dish Network Model 6000 HD SAT/OTA tuner
- 3 Atlantic Technology IWTS-10 LCR in-wall speakers for front & center duties.
- 4 Atlantic Technology IWTS-8 CMS in-ceiling speakers; two for surround L/R, two for surround back (for DTS-ES)
- Atlantic Technology 172 PBM subwoofer since I can't affort/justify $2200 for an in-wall sub!

My plan is to get composite to s-video converters ($33 each from http://s-video.com/rcatosvideo.html) for my existing N64 and VHS VCR so that all output is either via component or s-video. This way, I only need to run s-video and DVI-I cables to the PJ from my equipment rack.

A HTPC might be added later, but mainly for games and surfing, not scaling. I'd like to get a DVI-I switcher (preferrably X-10 controlled) to switch between the AVR-1803 source and the DVI output from the NVidia card in the PC.

Biggest Question:
- What is the best way to convert the component output to DVI? I'm definately a DVI newbie! :rolleyes:

Other Questions:
- Should the DVD output 480i and let the SI 504 in the 753 scale & deinterlace, or 480p?
- I wasn't planning to mask the screen. Will this pose a problem for 16:9 DVD watching?
- In a 13' x 22' x 8.5' room, what is the best size screen? 80"? 100"?
- Can the AVR-1803 handle switching a 1080i or 720p signal from the Model 6000?
- I assume I'd go with DVI-I for all cabling and switching, is this correct?
- Will daylight from the three north-facing single-pane windows pose a problem?
- Is having DVDi in the DVD player and SI 504 in the PJ redundant?
- What's the best way to switch between two DVI sources?
- Is there a better choice than the 753? I was thinking hard about the Sharp PG-M20X-A, but for a few hundred bucks, I'd like to have the 753's SI 504 chipset to handle scaling & deinterlacing.
- Anything I forgot or didn't consider!?

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR ALL OF THE WONDERFUL INPUT I'M SURE THIS POST WILL GENERATE! AVSFORUM ROCKS!!

- Timinator

The three most dangerous things are a programmer with a soldering iron, a manager who codes, and a user who gets ideas.
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-19-2002, 03:10 PM
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Best way to concert component output to DVI:

http://www.optomausa.com/images/Publ...nt_320_240.jpg

Optoma DVI-Component cable

I'd try outputting 480p first before trying 480i.

Pose a problem? Well, you'll have gray areas, but if that doesn't bother you, then no, won't pose a problem.

Decide how far back you're sitting, then plug it into this:

THX Viewing Calculator

Then, see if the screendoor at that size/distance bugs you. If so, move to a smaller and smaller image until it no longer bugs you. Then, buy a screen of that size.

The AVR1803 can handle switching, but you'll get some picture softening.

Not necessarily, you can go Component to VGA input, and also use the S-vid and composites

Yes, with daylight you'll get a washed out picture. Whether or not this is acceptable depends on your tastes.

No, because the SI504 will do the scaling too.

A DVI switch
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post #3 of 10 Old 09-20-2002, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Apex, Thanks for the info.

I think I'm off using DVI at all at this point. All of my sources (except maybe a future HTPC) are in the analog domain anyway, so why bother limiting my cable run to 5 meters? This also makes using an ordinary VGA switcher a nice way to tie in the HTPC.

Now then, as far as the "washout" goes, how would that compare to my current 53" RPTV (Sony KP53HS10)? It's quite watchable with lots of daylight in the room, but of course critical viewing is best at night with small amounts of ambient light from a few recessed lights.

The new system will go into my new house, which is currently little more than an overpriced swimming pool. I'll be talking to the AV cable guy in about two weeks. Determining proper speaker & PJ locations is proving tricky since I've only seen a blueprint for my particular model house!

Attached is the room layout. I had to modify the fireplace area since the original scan had it positioned in the top left corner. The screen would be placed above the fireplace so I only have one focal point to deal with when determining the seating arrangements. The fireplace is gas, so I'm hoping I can disable it via X10 when the screen is down.

- T
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-20-2002, 07:50 AM
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Man,

Check out the color on the Optoma before you buy. Do the colors look stable to you ? Do skin tones look natural ? Does white look okay or does it have a bluish tinge ? Does flames in a fire look like fire or does it look like cartoonish ?

I may be wrong but Optoma was one of the first few brands I saw before I purchased my VT540 4 months ago. It was one of the worst projectors I have seen in terms of deinterlacing and color rendition. Even the H55, projector central people must be on drugs to say that the H55 is any good. Red looks like an orange flash light...colors flash at you and lots of rainbows too.

There are many many better PJ brands out there. I am afraid Optoma isn't one of them. NEC, Sony, Panasonic, Sim2, Sharp...produce much better products in my opinion.. It just seems that some PJ companies are pretty consistent in coming out with expensive crap.
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-20-2002, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
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The VT540 "only" has a contrast ratio of 400:1. How is that in real life? What's your ambient lighting like? With my current 53" RPTV, I have dimmers on two recessed lights so I can throw a little light behind the set - I find this greatly reduces eye fatigue and keeps people from tripping over the coffee table.

Also on my "short list" are the LT150z, the LT240 and the PG-M20X-A. I really need to keep the PJ under $3000 and would like it to have a good scaler since 480i sources will be scaled up and HDTV would be scaled down. The only time the PJ would see a native signal would be from the not-anywhere-near-ready-to-build HTPC.

Noise is also a concern, which makes me a tiny bit nervous about the M20X.

- T

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post #6 of 10 Old 10-04-2002, 08:15 AM
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Timinator,

Whatever you do, don't throw $33 away on a composit to Svid converter for your N64. Just spend $7-$10 on an actual Svid cable for it (pick up any GameCube Svid cable you find laying about; its the same cable as needed for the N64; same cable as needed for the SNES, too, as a matter of fact). That'll save you enough for another DVD and get you a noticeable PQ boost for the N64 (and you're going to need it when you project it on the big screen).

Good luck with all the rest.

Kensai
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-04-2002, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Good point , Kensai.

Also, I think I'm off the Optoma and onto the NEC LT240 if I can get one for under $3K.

- T

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post #8 of 10 Old 10-07-2002, 01:31 PM
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I must disagree with the Optoma H55 opinion above. Using the service menu to tweak the RGB settings and using the Panny CP 72 prog scan DVD player I have achieved an excellent picture. Contrast is great, color saturation is great, I turned off the white segment--rainbows are not a problem. The prog scan DVD signal definitely looks better than using an interlaced signal despite the SIL504.

Compared to my friend's 10HT I am thrilled.

I am using a Dalite 52 x 92 screen.

Dr. Rob
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-08-2002, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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That's cool that you can shut off the white segment! How does the SIL504 do on 480i material?

- T

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post #10 of 10 Old 10-08-2002, 09:16 PM
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T,

The SIL504 handles 480i just fine. I think the contrast and color saturation are better however, using the deinterlacer in my DVD player.

Rob
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