To zoom or not to zoom, that is the question - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-15-2014, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Question To zoom or not to zoom, that is the question

Thought I would try again. Need to figure this out by Friday. Yes I have searched and no I haven't found a clear answer to this. Thinking about putting it in the middle of the zoom but that also puts it right over my head. Would rather have it atleast a couple feet behind or in front of my chair.




I just received my new BenQ W1500 projector. Screen is being installed in ceiling this coming Sat. I am planning on putting the projector up before hand unless people think I should wait for screen. It will be ceiling mounted. Going to have installers install power to my ceiling so I really dont want to move it.

Screen is a tensioned Da-lite 84402 133 inch 16:9 HD. Not sure on other specifics of the screen like Gain and what not. Got it off Craigslist for $500 never been used

I will be sitting 13-14 feet from screen. 8 foot ceiling. Screen and projector will both be centered in room .

Projector can be placed as far back as 21 feet in my room
.
I dont want to use any lens shift if at all possible as I hear that can degrade some of the image quality.

I am still not quite clear on the whole zoom picture quality issues. Best to have no zoom for sharpest picture ? I would personally prefer the sharpest picture possible as long as it will be bright enough for night time viewing. I doubt we will be doing any day time viewing at all. It will drop down in front of my 65 inch plasma. I am used to my plasma at 13 feet and I am already a bit concerned about the hit on sharpness I will take going to a projector for movies.

I went to a couple sites with calculators.

Ben Q site says with zero zoom it needs to be only 10.4 feet away from screen. Projector central on the other hand shows 16 feet with no zoom
I'd like to think that BenQ site is right but 10.4 feet for that sized screen and no zoom seems off to me.


I would really appreciate any help you guys can give me on this.
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-15-2014, 09:42 PM
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ProjectorCentral also shows zoom range as 10'4" to 16'6", so I don't see the disagreement.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ...ulator-pro.htm

Placing a projector at its closest position will allow the most light out of a projector. Placing it at its furthest will allow less light out. But if you will only be watching it at night, then brightness won't be an issue anywhere from mid-position to closest. I've never noticed a sharpness or focus issue with my JVC projectors at either end of their zoom ranges but I can't speak to BenQ.

Your W1500 does not have a motorized zoom, so zooming in and out to make a 'scope film fit your screen height is probably not a goal, right ?

Mid-position will be right over head, and further back will cost you some brightness. I would plan on 10'6", but I always want the brightest possible image.

I suggest you don't mount it yet. Wait until the screen is up, then try several nights viewing with it on a table at various distances. Keep in mind that bulbs lose brightness over time, so if the furthest distance 16' seems barely satisfactory in brightness now, you will be less satisfied later.

Of course, you could always get sneaky and install a plank on the ceiling, the projector mount to another board and the board to the plank via a drawer glide. That way you could slide the projector over the whole 6' range of motion.

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post #3 of 10 Old 10-16-2014, 12:35 AM - Thread Starter
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ProjectorCentral also shows zoom range as 10'4" to 16'6", so I don't see the disagreement.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ...ulator-pro.htm

Placing a projector at its closest position will allow the most light out of a projector. Placing it at its furthest will allow less light out. But if you will only be watching it at night, then brightness won't be an issue anywhere from mid-position to closest. I've never noticed a sharpness or focus issue with my JVC projectors at either end of their zoom ranges but I can't speak to BenQ.

Your W1500 does not have a motorized zoom, so zooming in and out to make a 'scope film fit your screen height is probably not a goal, right ?

Mid-position will be right over head, and further back will cost you some brightness. I would plan on 10'6", but I always want the brightest possible image.

I suggest you don't mount it yet. Wait until the screen is up, then try several nights viewing with it on a table at various distances. Keep in mind that bulbs lose brightness over time, so if the furthest distance 16' seems barely satisfactory in brightness now, you will be less satisfied later.

Of course, you could always get sneaky and install a plank on the ceiling, the projector mount to another board and the board to the plank via a drawer glide. That way you could slide the projector over the whole 6' range of motion.
''

Thanks for your advice. I am leaning towards mounting it at about 14 feet. That way the projector would be behind me. Probably better for projector noise and I wouldnt see it up on ceiling when I look up. I have seen several sites say that putting the projector all the way back is the sharpest image but get mixed input from users. I guess I'll just go for the middle ground, well slightly back from middle.

After reading more about the wireless HDMI having some issues with delay in displaying image and artifacts I have decided to have them run HDMI cables. I guess two of them one for Direct TV and one for Bluray ? Dont want to have to get up and move cables around when I switch between the two.
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post #4 of 10 Old 10-16-2014, 07:48 PM
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Go ahead and run two HDMI cables. Most people would use their AV receiver to switch between two sources rather than two separate feeds (or even one direct feed) to the projector. If you don't go through your AVR, then how will sound from bluray or DirecTv be produced ? Are you using an older AVR that doesn't switch HDMI ?

So why two HDMI cables ? In case one goes bad or for troubleshooting later.

The only time using a longer zoom has mattered for me is when I used as anamorphic lens. If the image was not as small as possible when going through the anamorphic lens, then I got more chromatic aberration and pincushion of the image. Using only the projector's built in lens, I've never experienced a difference in sharpness anywhere within its range.

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post #5 of 10 Old 10-16-2014, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Go ahead and run two HDMI cables. Most people would use their AV receiver to switch between two sources rather than two separate feeds (or even one direct feed) to the projector. If you don't go through your AVR, then how will sound from bluray or DirecTv be produced ? Are you using an older AVR that doesn't switch HDMI ?

So why two HDMI cables ? In case one goes bad or for troubleshooting later.

The only time using a longer zoom has mattered for me is when I used as anamorphic lens. If the image was not as small as possible when going through the anamorphic lens, then I got more chromatic aberration and pincushion of the image. Using only the projector's built in lens, I've never experienced a difference in sharpness anywhere within its range.
I echo the pp; I used benq W1070 and viewsonic pjd7820 with full zoom and no zoom and didn't notice any difference in PQ quality. I tried again this evening and didn't notice anything major. I even tried in 3D and didn't find any.
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post #6 of 10 Old 10-16-2014, 11:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Go ahead and run two HDMI cables. Most people would use their AV receiver to switch between two sources rather than two separate feeds (or even one direct feed) to the projector. If you don't go through your AVR, then how will sound from bluray or DirecTv be produced ? Are you using an older AVR that doesn't switch HDMI ?

So why two HDMI cables ? In case one goes bad or for troubleshooting later.

The only time using a longer zoom has mattered for me is when I used as anamorphic lens. If the image was not as small as possible when going through the anamorphic lens, then I got more chromatic aberration and pincushion of the image. Using only the projector's built in lens, I've never experienced a difference in sharpness anywhere within its range.

Older receiver. I use optical cables for Bluray and Direct Tv box. Even with a new receiver I would still have an issues running both devices on both displays though it would seem.

Last edited by dllhg; 10-16-2014 at 11:37 PM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-16-2014, 11:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Go ahead and run two HDMI cables. Most people would use their AV receiver to switch between two sources rather than two separate feeds (or even one direct feed) to the projector. If you don't go through your AVR, then how will sound from bluray or DirecTv be produced ? Are you using an older AVR that doesn't switch HDMI ?

So why two HDMI cables ? In case one goes bad or for troubleshooting later.

The only time using a longer zoom has mattered for me is when I used as anamorphic lens. If the image was not as small as possible when going through the anamorphic lens, then I got more chromatic aberration and pincushion of the image. Using only the projector's built in lens, I've never experienced a difference in sharpness anywhere within its range.

Older receiver. Even with a new receiver I would still have an issues running both devices on both displays though it would seem. Maybe a receiver with single HDMI out and put splitter on that ? Did find a few receivers that seem decent for $300 range. Always had good luck wit Yamaha.
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-17-2014, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dllhg View Post
Older receiver. Even with a new receiver I would still have an issues running both devices on both displays though it would seem. Maybe a receiver with single HDMI out and put splitter on that ? Did find a few receivers that seem decent for $300 range. Always had good luck wit Yamaha.
You could use a splitter on a receiver with a single HDMI out, but if you are going to buy a new AVR and a splitter, you might as well buy an AVR with two HDMI outs.

They tend to be in the $600 range, though. That's a lot if you only need splitting and/or switching. A 4x2 switch like this is only $60.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-...ds=hdmi+switch

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post #9 of 10 Old 10-17-2014, 10:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
You could use a splitter on a receiver with a single HDMI out, but if you are going to buy a new AVR and a splitter, you might as well buy an AVR with two HDMI outs.

They tend to be in the $600 range, though. That's a lot if you only need splitting and/or switching. A 4x2 switch like this is only $60.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-...ds=hdmi+switch

I didnt realize some of those switches could have two outputs on them. That is pretty sweet and a simple solution it would seem. Dont need to mes with audio. No wire swapping for anything. Thank you !
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-18-2014, 08:55 PM
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I didnt realize some of those switches could have two outputs on them. That is pretty sweet and a simple solution it would seem. Dont need to mes with audio. No wire swapping for anything. Thank you !
I noticed this one doesn't mention 3D support, but other on Amazon do, just in case 3D is important to you.

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