HS10 will give me only a 80 inches screen!! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I though the HS10 was the right PJ for me but I overlook the problem of the shooting distance and relative screen size.
thanks to "offshore" I finally get info about screen size

in my basement I can just get a ~80-85 inches screen size in 16/9 format (I am shooting from about 120 inches).
This is frustrating, why should I get this expensive High res projector for that size. with the Z1 I can get bigger images.
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post #2 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CAE
in my **** basement I can just get a ~80-85 inches screen size in 16/9 format (I am shooting from about 120 inches).
This is frustrating, why should I get this expensive High res projector for that size. with the Z1 I can get bigger images.
True, the HS10 has a longer throw ratio (1.5 to 1.9) than the Z1 (1.35 - 1.6). Some people need a longer throw and some need a shorter one--all depends on their setup. Also, a lot of people prefer the HS10's higher-resolution (1366 x 768) panel to the Z1 (960 x 540), and the fact that the HS10 has DVI input which the Z1 lacks.
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post #3 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 08:23 AM
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My case is exactly the same. I've got 130 inches from the screen to the back wall. Absolute maximum width with the HS10 was a paltry 65". With my new PLV-Z1 I get 80" wide - no problem. :D

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post #4 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 08:32 AM
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me too ... Im going to have 85" max diagonal screen with HS10 ... But I don't complain since my room is 13'x13', and 85" BEATs to death my current 32" Sony Trinitron TV...

Its ALL GOOD ..........


Crestron & AMX Programmer. GUI Designer.
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post #5 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 09:02 AM
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The HS10 requries a longer throw distance but the resolution is better than the Z1. 85 inches is still a big picture.
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post #6 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 09:29 AM
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I coulda sworn I saw something with reference to the Sanyo and DVI. Like it could be accomplished with some sort of dongle going into the VGA and some the other analog inputs. Can't find it tho...
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post #7 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 09:34 AM
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I found it. from the babel fish translated Japanese Review site
Quote:
The image input terminal equips 3 systems of S video, composite video and component video as a video system. There is no, the D terminal, but the LP-Z1 itself corresponds to D4 suitable input.

As for personal computer input analog RGB input of D-Sub15 pin only 1 system. If desire is said, when you want to desire mounting the DVI-I terminal which can be used with digital / analog combined use the place.

Furthermore, as a accessory the composite video cable 1 belongs to the package, but the D terminal - the component terminal conversion cable probably is more practical.
I don't know what this means!
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post #8 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jim J
I don't know what this means!
It means that computer translation software still has a lot of room for improvement. It also (I think) means that there is an available DVI-to-DB15 dongle which will allow you to connect a video source to the projector via DVI. I sincerely doubt that it would work with high definition copy protection, though--if it did, it would defeat the whole raison d'erte for DVI/HDCP in the first place.
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post #9 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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80 inches screen is what you get for a 16/9 output.
The normal 4/3 TV is going to be preatty close to 65 inches

From 10 feet you get more then 100 inches with this sanyo Z1.

16:9 Screen Size Diagonal Range: 83.3 101.5 in. ( 6.9 - 8.5 ft.)
==========================================================
I totally understand that the wxga Hs10 will look nicer but in a projector you also need huge screen. I am going to home depot and check if is so difficult to move the air conditioning ducts.
by the way how much will cost the short lens for the Sony?
moreover the Z1 is going to be released in usa the 18th. please send me a PM about where you preordered yours?

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post #10 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 10:16 AM
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The way my room is setup I actually prefer a very long throw, what I do at the moment is have the projector back about 22 feet from the screen with no zoom in use. The effect is great, because before I had this projector in front of me when watching movies and it really annoyed me because it took away the 'cinema feeling'. Having the projector so far behind us all you see is the massive screen with no projector in sight :D

Also having the projector further back gives better uniformity accross the screen, too close and videophiles will tell you that the uniformity wont be as good some of the time depending on projector etc
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post #11 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 10:42 AM
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You might wish to try what bob did with his PLV-70. Pictures in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=187585

He turned his projector sideways and used a mirror to reflect it 90°. All you need to do is pull the pj away from the mirror to achieve the desired screen size. It's a good idea for small rooms.

-David
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post #12 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nox
You might wish to try what bob did with his PLV-70. Pictures in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=187585

He turned his projector sideways and used a mirror to reflect it 90°. All you need to do is pull the pj away from the mirror to achieve the desired screen size. It's a good idea for small rooms.
A friend of mine has a similar setup. It's important with this kind of arrangement that you use an optical-grade "first surface" mirror. A conventional mirror is no good here; the projected image is partially reflected back by the glass of a regular mirror, resulting in an ugly double image being projected.

Google on "first surface mirror" and you will find several vendors.
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post #13 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 11:39 AM
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For those of you worried about short throw and small screen size....

I think the measurement you should be keeping in mind is screen width vs. seating distance. I think that's a more important measurement than actual screen width, since that is what determines how much of your field of view will be filled by the screen.

For example, I could have a 20-foot wide screen, but if I sit 50 feet away from it, it's not going to look as big as when I have a 7-foot wide screen and sit 12 feet away.

So even though your smaller rooms will result in a smaller screen width, you are also going to be sitting closer than the rest of us, which will compensate for that. You are going to get a brighter, sharper picture too!
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post #14 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 11:41 AM
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But your missing the 'big picture'!

If you had a bigger screen, you would end up sitting WAY TOO CLOSE and screendoor would suck bad. If you want to sit closer than 1.5 screen widths, better get a technology with less screen door, such as DLP or the AE300. Look, you got a 10' room. If you put your head on the back wall and screen on the front wall, your maximum screen width for the minimum distance of 1.5 screen widths is 6 2/3 feet or 80 inches. So whats the problem? You should probably go smaller yet, so that the back row is 2x sceen width or so, for those who cant stand screen door. If you plan on watching mostly 4x3 material its different since the 4x3 area inside the 16x9 screen has a much smaller width, but the pixel spacing is still the same...

Stand 1 screen width from a RPTV and see if you like its picture? Or even a direct view crt, if you can stand your eyeballs frying. Even plasma would display significant pixelation at that distance.

AE300 sounds like the best choice for sitting too close, since recent review of newer low-res DLP's such as Sharp Z90 say that its screen door is comperable to LCD. And the '300 is relatively inexpensive, but you'de have to get it from japan since it aint bein sold here yet. Screendoor on the lower res Sanyo at such close distances would probably be real bad.


Quote:
Originally posted by CAE
I though the HS10 was the right PJ for me but I overlook the problem of the shooting distance and relative screen size.
thanks to "offshore" I finally get info about screen size

in my basement I can just get a ~80-85 inches screen size in 16/9 format (I am shooting from about 120 inches).
This is frustrating, why should I get this expensive High res projector for that size. with the Z1 I can get bigger images.
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post #15 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 01:25 PM
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My room is 15 feet

I'll mount the projector to the back wall.

I'll be setting @ about 13 - 14 feet.

How big can I make the screen with the HS10?

Les_D

More or Les
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post #16 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 02:04 PM
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Interesting thread.

I placed an order for the HS10 and built a 72" Parkland screen since I was planing on sitting 10' from the screen but last night I tired something which I hope will work with the HS10.

Since I'm using an upstairs loft I found that if I projected unto a wall that was 20 feet away I could actualy have a 16x9 108" screen :D

I'm using a loaner PLus 4X3 DLP projector which looked great. I hope that the HS10 looks atleast that good since I'm just getting into projectors.
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post #17 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 02:25 PM
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a 15 foot room should give you a 100" inch screen.
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post #18 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 02:42 PM
 
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actually 150" 16:9 at that distance (20ft.)
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post #19 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 05:26 PM
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Okay. Now the next question. What multiple of the screen size will a person have to sit away from the screen so that one doesn't see screen door effect? And is this regards to diagonal screen, height of screen, or width? Thanks for your opinions!

Chris
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post #20 of 25 Old 11-12-2002, 07:54 PM
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1.5x screen width is a good rule of thumb.
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post #21 of 25 Old 11-13-2002, 07:11 PM
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I've given up actually trying to understand these throw ratios. Someone just tell me, with the HS10, what 16:9 screen size (diagonal) could I get from:

13'

how about 18.5'?

Those are 2 possible throw distances for me. Can anyone help?
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post #22 of 25 Old 11-13-2002, 08:25 PM
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18.5 feet will get you a 133 inch diagnal 16:9 screen spank on the numbers in the middle of the zoom range... knew that off the top of my head... wanta know why?... teehee :)
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post #23 of 25 Old 11-13-2002, 08:38 PM
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One comment/question on the mirror option to lengthen the projection path. With one mirror, there will be a horizontal inversion...left and right will be switched. Either the projector or the video sources need to have a way to flip the output or you will be watching a mirror image on the wall. Of course, I assume that the rotate-180 degrees option is common for ceiling mount units. Is this horizontal flip a common feature on projectors as well? If it is, all well and good. If not, you will need a second mirror to flip the image back.
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post #24 of 25 Old 11-14-2002, 03:00 AM
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The "rotate 180" is called the "rear projection" mode if I am not screwing up my optics. Most projectors can be used in either front or rear projection. I know the M20X can be set for either one in the menus, which would flip the picture horizontally. Is the manual for the HS10 online yet? Maybe the few who have the HS10 can tell you if this option is in the menu's.
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post #25 of 25 Old 11-14-2002, 06:20 AM
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I was thinking that rotate-180 would be for upside-down versus right-side-up operation with the rotation occuring about the axis of projection. The flip-horizontal is different, but as you said, would be necessary for rear projection. It is probably a common feature. Thanks!
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