First, a couple updates for anyone who has kindly followed my thread...
The measurement from basement floor to floor joist above is 105.75", so I didn't get quite the 9' basement I thought I had. I plan for a raised floor of about 5" (basements in the Midwest sometimes get wet). Once I put up a couple layers of drywall for sound deadening on the ceiling, I can estimate that the finished ceiling will be right at 96".
However... I had forgotten about an I-beam that supports the floor above. It runs parallel to the front wall, where the screen will be located. It hangs down almost 12" and is about 3' from the front wall. That means that the projected image has to go under this beam, so it will inhibit me sliding the projected image closer to the ceiling than that.
With all this in mind...
Originally Posted by dreamer
You can dial down the brightness of the 1075 by using ECO mode rather than Normal or Smart-ECO for the lamp. This is likely enough for even a pitch black room if the screen is in the 150" range. I use Smart-ECO on my 122" screen and it only ever seems too bright when the screen is mostly white. But I like to leave light on in the seating area, so the room is rarely fully dark. There are Neutral Density filters for photography that some people have placed in front or the projector lens. This reduces the light output without altering the color. Those run about $50 or so. My solution is just to not watch in full dark and to use a larger screen.
Maybe we could just wear sunglasses in the theater room.
When I look at the size of a 150" diagonal 16:9 image, it's HUGE. Since I can't get any closer to the ceiling than 12", and that size screen is 73.5" tall, the bottom of the projected image would come within 10" of the floor. I think that might be too big for us. Maybe... I'm still planning to try different sizes to see what we like, but I'm thinking we're going to want about 135" or so (about 18" bottom of image to floor).
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated
I think you would be disappointed, most of all, with the image quality of the 8345 vs. the W1070.
You should try different sizes to find what you like, but view from both seating locations, and watch a few movies to figure out what really makes you happy, but there is no way I would recommend the 8345 over the W1070.
And no chance I would buy the W1075 over the W1070.
Exactly what we plan to do. However, I'm curious about your comment of the W1070 over the HT1075. Besides price, is there some advantage or feature the W1070 has that the HT1075 doesn't have? I thought they were nearly identical, except for a few updates to the HT1075? I have no doubt that the W1070 currently has higher performance per dollar, but for me there is some extrinsic value in the newer, quieter, updated model. YMMV.
Finally, I was looking at screens. If I get a 158" diagonal 2.35:1 screen (62" tall), does that mean I can enjoy same height images regardless of the format? I understand that when watching a 16:9 film, the sides of the screen would go unused, but I think I would deal with that better than black bars at the top and bottom of my 16:9 screen when watching a 2.35 film and having the image shorter than a 16:9 film. Am I off base here?
With the screen taking up most of the front wall, where would I put the center channel speaker? I can't go above the screen because of the I-beam. I'd have to set the speaker on the floor. Are acoustically transparent screens a good option? Are they really acoustically transparent? Do they have any image trade-offs?
Thanks again for taking the time to give me things to consider in my project.