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post #271 of 328 Old 12-11-2006, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amisam View Post

Props to Monkey, curses to the builders of my apartment complex.

After a _itch of a time trying to find the joists, I ended up with the old drill till you find it method....23 inches apart? wtf? lol anyway, I am limited on space so I threw up a 3x26x1 inch of oak and drilled into the joists, ofcourse pre-drilling the oak, don't want to split it.

From there the only change I made was the acrylic. I went with 1/2 ply because my flange is mounted towards the rear and the acrylic was giving me a lot of flex. I also used wing nuts exclusively on the 50mm screws, it's great leveling this thing, I highly recommend this.

Thanks Monkeyman, you da monkey!

PS ignore the pencil marks, they must have laid down some metal drywall mesh or something? So much for the stud finder!

Well done!!! I likey
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post #272 of 328 Old 01-14-2007, 08:11 PM
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This weekend I managed to adapt this design to my HD1000 in a room with only 7'4" ceilings and a 95" screen. The springs are close to completely compressed, but I found a 1/2"-length galvanized pipe to put between the flanges which made it all possible (apparently you can also get a "close" length which leaves minimal space between the flanges, but my store was out of them).

After looking at multiple big box hardware stores, I instantly found all of the items on the "hardware store" list at a local chain hardware store (duh!) - they had M4 fully threaded at a 70mm length, though if you're going this close to the ceiling, you could get away with maybe 40mm screws and cutting your compression springs in half to save on cost. I used wing nuts above the board and nuts/locking washers against the mounting points on the PJ.

Leveling adjustments were fantastic. Thanks, M_M.
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post #273 of 328 Old 02-25-2007, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plastic View Post

This weekend I managed to adapt this design to my HD1000 in a room with only 7'4" ceilings and a 95" screen. The springs are close to completely compressed, but I found a 1/2"-length galvanized pipe to put between the flanges which made it all possible (apparently you can also get a "close" length which leaves minimal space between the flanges, but my store was out of them).

After looking at multiple big box hardware stores, I instantly found all of the items on the "hardware store" list at a local chain hardware store (duh!) - they had M4 fully threaded at a 70mm length, though if you're going this close to the ceiling, you could get away with maybe 40mm screws and cutting your compression springs in half to save on cost. I used wing nuts above the board and nuts/locking washers against the mounting points on the PJ.

Leveling adjustments were fantastic. Thanks, M_M.

I have 8' ceilings and just got my HD1000 as well...

Would you be able to tell me how high is the bottom of your screen from the floor? I am thinking about getting a 106" screen and worry it might be too close to the floor.
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post #274 of 328 Old 03-03-2007, 08:28 PM
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The bottom of my image is just under 22" from the floor.
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post #275 of 328 Old 06-07-2007, 11:32 AM
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post #276 of 328 Old 06-08-2007, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyman00 View Post

So I came across your thread after a quick search. I liked RGB's mods, so I went that direction.

I will be looking for my royalty check in the mail

But seriously, the Nyloc nuts really help round out the design and lend a clean, polished look to the finished mount. Plus, if you follow my installation instructions earlier in the thread, the nyloc nuts help prevent over-torquing the M4 screws in the projector mount threaded inserts, which could damage the projector.
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post #277 of 328 Old 06-08-2007, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twehttam View Post

I'm glad this got brought back up. I'd like to thank MM again for this as it saved me big $. I just replaced my X1 with an IN72 and was able to use the same mount, just drill new holes in the plate. It still looks great.

That's one of the great things about this mount, especially if you upgrade projectors every year or two, the savings add up.

This is coming from someone who paid about $200 each for the mounts for my first two projectors in 1999 and 2002. The bad thing was, I had to give away the mount with both projectors, as they were custom commercial mounts made for each projector. And you basically had to throw it in at no cost, so you lost the entire amount you paid for the mount.

So, the monkeyMan mount was a breakthrough, particularly when it was first posted.

Nowadays, with Monoprice selling a universal mount for about $17 (though it doesn't work with many projectors), the DIY approach might not save a lot. However, I believe the monkeyMan mount can be more flexible than cheap commerical mounts, and allows you to hide cables through the pipe, which many cheap commercial mounts can't do.
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post #278 of 328 Old 09-16-2007, 07:33 AM
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Just my take on already a grate idea

Thet's what I used (White plate is lexan)



Made some changes later- replaced 10" still pipe with 12" PVC and didn't use the springs.


Good sounding music system is big, but not THE most important part of me life.
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post #279 of 328 Old 09-16-2007, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Volga, very nice. I like the hidden wires.

I just recently moved to a new apartment and built a new mount. I finally moved to a place that has a large living room. The point of this slide mount was to dial in the picture without using the zoom. Now, I have perfect geometry with my panamorph.




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post #280 of 328 Old 09-16-2007, 02:35 PM
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Out of curiosity, what purpose do the compression springs serve?
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post #281 of 328 Old 09-16-2007, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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post #282 of 328 Old 09-16-2007, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

Gravity Enhancers

*Edit* Wait, the springs hold the span between the projector and the plexiglass without the need for an additional nut on the underside of the plexiglass. That's the purpose.
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post #283 of 328 Old 09-16-2007, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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The springs push the PJ away from the plate. It's not a critical component, but helps to keep PJ in the desired position when adjusted. I live an apartment and I was worried about the PJ moving when people thumped around above me.
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post #284 of 328 Old 09-17-2007, 05:41 AM
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Man, this rocks. I plan to build one for my IN72. Strangely, the IN72's mounting holes seem to be (from the datasheet) entirely behind the centerline of the projector--two in the back, and one offset to one side of the center point.

It seems that with sufficiently long mounting bolts, you could mount the IN72 without removing its swivel base, which means you won't lose the swivel base in your pile o' debris.
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post #285 of 328 Old 09-19-2007, 08:04 AM
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I've used this design twice now, once for my 4805 and then again with my HC1500.

I'm impressed with the ingenuity of MonkyMan's mount.

I did things slightly different from the original design, however. I used a piece of wood for the plate the second time around as plexy just felt too wobbly for my tastes. In fact, in some of the earlier pictures, you can see the plexy bowing under the weight of the pj. (plus, the wood for my new plate was free from the scrap I had laying around)

Second, rather then trying to find long M4 bolts (which was just too hard and special order defeated the purpose of a cheap and easy mount) I used the longest M4 bolts I I could find at Lowes, 30mm to bolt the plate to the pj, using rubber washers to cut vibration transmission. I used 3in 10-24 bolts screwed through the bottom of the plate to attach it to the lower bracket. I used wingnuts so I could adjust the positioning once I had it up there.

My first design, I did it the other way around and ended up needing to spin the whole projector to get the thing down. Now I can just unscrew the four wingnuts and drop it off.

I didn't, however, think of using compression springs, just gravity. That was a brilliant notion on whoever thought of that's part. I'm going to add them to my design.

I might even sand and paint the plate while I have it town. For now, it just looks like a scrap of wood.

I'm not too worried about aesthetics though, I mean, it's 6 inches from the ceiling, you can barely see the mount as it is.
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post #286 of 328 Old 09-19-2007, 09:06 AM - Thread Starter
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I like the changes! I used the compression springs from the get go and continue to use them.

The main reason I went with plexiglas was to cut down on weight. If you look above, I had to use two layers of plexiglas to hold my H78DC3.

Another reason I used plexiglas was because I was being lazy. I thought it would be easier to mark the PJ mounting with the plexiglas apposed to having to make careful measurements with wood However, weight was the main reason and I'm sticking to it!!!
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post #287 of 328 Old 09-20-2007, 08:41 AM
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That's also why I went with plexy on my first mount, easy to mark.

However, when I made the wood one, I just laid a piece of paper on the back of the pj, marked the holes, and used that as a template. It only took minor fiddling with the drill to get everything to line up.

I didn't find the wood to be all that much heavier. I also used some very wide based drywall anchors to spread the weight more. It seems pretty sturdy to me.

However, my pj is the HC1500, so it's only 4 or 5lbs or so. I don't know how much yours weighs.
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post #288 of 328 Old 09-20-2007, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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My PJ is 16 plus I think. In total, it's a heavy rig with mount. Good idea on the marking of the holes.
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post #289 of 328 Old 09-22-2007, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

Volga, very nice. I like the hidden wires.

...




wow.... slick
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post #290 of 328 Old 09-23-2007, 04:12 PM
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16? Yea, that's a heavy rig.

I nearly got one of those Samsung SP-H710AE from that animal place's sale, but the 19lb size seemed just too dang big to mount up.

I'll get some pics of the HT setup when I get it done. I'm building my system into a credenza and hiding the speakers when it's not in use. I think it's going to look pretty good. In fact, I'm browsing the forum while I wait for my first coat of paint to dry.
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post #291 of 328 Old 04-15-2008, 08:30 AM
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This thread has been dormant a while, but I thought I'd post pictures of my own implementation of the monkey man mount.

It's a pretty faithful rendition. The only unique aspect was that I added a second piece of plexiglass. The mounting holes on the projector (InFocus IN72) were in an odd configuration and didn't lend themselves to being used as pitch and yaw adjustments. So I mounted one sheet of plexi to the projector to create a wide, fixed surface, and then attached the second sheet using the typical four screws with compression springs to serve as pitch and yaw adjustments. There might have been a more elegant solution, but this worked out well.

Props to Monkey Man for the original idea, and the rest of the community for helping to flesh it out.


Link to photo set

The completed unit.


Close-up of the mount. The three shorter screws (two on left, one on right) attach the bottom sheet to the projector. The four longer screws (one is obscured by the pipe) with the compression springs attach the top sheet to the bottom sheet, and are used to level the image.


The installed view ... the bottom sheet of plexiglass really isn't even visible.
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post #292 of 328 Old 04-15-2008, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samyournot View Post

This thread has been dormant a while, but I thought I'd post pictures of my own implementation of the monkey man mount.

It's a pretty faithful rendition. The only unique aspect was that I added a second piece of plexiglass. The mounting holes on the projector (InFocus IN72) were in an odd configuration and didn't lend themselves to being used as pitch and yaw adjustments. So I mounted one sheet of plexi to the projector to create a wide, fixed surface, and then attached the second sheet using the typical four screws with compression springs to serve as pitch and yaw adjustments. There might have been a more elegant solution, but this worked out well.

Props to Monkey Man for the original idea, and the rest of the community for helping to flesh it out.


Link to photo set

The completed unit.


Close-up of the mount. The three shorter screws (two on left, one on right) attach the bottom sheet to the projector. The four longer screws (one is obscured by the pipe) with the compression springs attach the top sheet to the bottom sheet, and are used to level the image.


The installed view ... the bottom sheet of plexiglass really isn't even visible.

I love it! Nice and slick. Thanks for the feedback and keeping the mount alive and well
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post #293 of 328 Old 04-15-2008, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

I was going to paint the plumbing parts black but I kind of like the sliver contrast.

Your mount looks really sleek. It must have a good WAF.

-Miguel Lescano
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post #294 of 328 Old 04-16-2008, 11:01 AM
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Guess I'll add the mount I made. It's basically a big shelf, as it was easier to put shelf brackets on the wall than to hang something from the ceiling. I made this about 2 1/2 years ago, meant to paint the wood black but never got around to it.



After I trimmed off the threaded rod, added 1x4 supports between the shelf and the wall brackets, and painted the room:
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post #295 of 328 Old 07-22-2008, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deech View Post


However, when I made the wood one, I just laid a piece of paper on the back of the pj, marked the holes, and used that as a template. It only took minor fiddling with the drill to get everything to line up.
.

...or use an overhead transparency to mark and transfer the hole pattern...
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post #296 of 328 Old 07-24-2008, 09:13 AM
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You can just use a crayon lightly rubbed over the holes on a piece of printer paper. No problem at all getting the holes to line up as long as you hold the paper flat and don't move it between marking each hole.

A little public service announcement though. After having my Z3 installed for 3 years, the 1/4" plexiglass/acrylic was clearly sagged. I thought I was getting lense shift drift but it turns out the mount plate was flexing.

My new PJ is the Z2000 which is much heavier so I duplicated the plate in 1/2" MDF. Pics to come.

Bobby
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post #297 of 328 Old 10-24-2008, 06:21 AM
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Just bought an optoma HD70 on ebay and looking to mount on a vaulted ceiling which is about 15' high in the center - room is approx 18' x 24' and the only way to mount on ceiling is at an angle. How can I adapt the Monkey Man mount using the same deisgn? I thought about screwing in some small sections of studs in a triangle shape into the ceiling, with flat edge on bottom and leave mount design as is. Maybe an angled plumbing fitting? What about speaker mounts?

Any help will be great - this one's a puzzler for me.
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post #298 of 328 Old 10-24-2008, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvdguy123 View Post

Just bought an optoma HD70 on ebay and looking to mount on a vaulted ceiling which is about 15' high in the center - room is approx 18' x 24' and the only way to mount on ceiling is at an angle. How can I adapt the Monkey Man mount using the same deisgn? I thought about screwing in some small sections of studs in a triangle shape into the ceiling, with flat edge on bottom and leave mount design as is. Maybe an angled plumbing fitting? What about speaker mounts?

Any help will be great - this one's a puzzler for me.

You might try these or find some other inexpensive ball joint:

http://www.panavise.com/f/cctv/cctv_deluxe.html
http://www.hififorless.com/showProdu...roductid=79137
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post #299 of 328 Old 10-24-2008, 11:56 AM
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Chief Manufacturing makes an angled ceiling adapter that accepts pipe with 1 1/2" NPT.



just search for CMA-395 and you'll find several retailers selling it for around $50.

It may sound a little pricey, but Chief makes great products. We recently got one of their mounts for my office's conference room DLP projector. It was about $180 and has individual 3-axis adjustments. It was pretty easy to get it set to the perfect angle to get a perfectly straight and square image with no keystone adjustment whatsoever. It also has a removable plate that attaches to the projector that can be removed and put back on very easily, and it keeps all prior adjustments perfectly. Like I said, really great stuff from that company.
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post #300 of 328 Old 11-03-2008, 06:17 AM
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Finally found a way to hang my PJ on a 14' ceiling. I used a ceiling fan adapter kit/hanger ball with a 48" 3/4" downrod. Here's the complications I'm running into...

1) The Optoma HD70 projector has screw holes in a traingle pattern - not square

2) PJ Requires M3 screws and I can't find anything longer than 25mm

I had to go with 2 plates instead of one (M3 into PJ and M4 60mm/springs into plate w/flange - using .93 plexy and lexan combo to build each to 1/4". The plate on the PJ looks to be OK, but the plater on flange is bowing in center. Should I go 1/4" plexy on both plates? can I leave bottom one and just replace top? what about 1/4" MDF? Getting the hardware and plexy has been the problem.

Also, I'd like to secure the PJ to the downrod or ceiling with a chain of some sort. Is there a way to hook one up right to the PJ or should it go on the lower plate that is screwed into PJ?

Any suggestions?
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