My DIY mount for L300u $20 :) - Page 11 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #301 of 328 Old 12-04-2008, 07:28 AM
Member
 
spider9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 51
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
hello all diyers

got my pj (Sharp Sharp XR32X) recently and decided to build me a mount. Came across this http://www.lowtek.ca/roo/2008/diy-ceiling-mount/
really liked his idea so I got all the parts. Didn't go with threaded rods just bought some long M4 screws. the flange and pipe I bought is 1/2" and not 3/4" and instead of Plexiglas I used a 1/2" board.

All looks fine, I'm in the process of painting the parts now. and hopefully tonight I'll be mounting it on the ceiling. Do you think 1/2" pipe is ok? I personally think it should be fine but need some expert opinions.

Thanks. (will post pictures soon)

btw. where did you guys buy your long video and power cables?
spider9 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #302 of 328 Old 12-04-2008, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,181
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by spider9 View Post

Do you think 1/2" pipe is ok? I personally think it should be fine but need some expert opinions.

Thanks. (will post pictures soon)

btw. where did you guys buy your long video and power cables?

1/2" will be just fine. I bought my cables from http://www.bluejeancable.com and http://www.monoprice.com

The Monkey_Man Mount lives on!!! I remember when I built this mount, commercial mounts cost over $100.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Monkey_Man is offline  
post #303 of 328 Old 12-04-2008, 07:37 PM
Senior Member
 
theirishgonzo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: third star to the right and strait on till morning
Posts: 346
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
i went with a mdfb box rought. but do have a i beam that is in th middle of my theater ad i boxed it in with drywall.

if you are lucky enough to be irish you are lucky enough
theirishgonzo is offline  
post #304 of 328 Old 12-19-2008, 05:18 PM
Member
 
BungalowFilms's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Greetings fellow DIYers. Thought I'd share my version of MonkeyMan's projector mount. My theater is themed after the Nautilus from Disney's 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea so all of the equipment needs to fit in with the Jules Verne Steampunk theme.




The mount plates themselves are made from plexiglas, painted to look like tarnished brass. The countersunk brass screws around the edges of both plates are purely cosmetic. All of the iron pipes are actually plastic ABS, textured to look like cast iron.

The circular ceiling plate is lag bolted to a sub plate, which is in turn bolted to the ceiling joists. The bolts get covered with hollowed out rivet heads. The four holes in the center of the plate hold 3/8" T-Nuts to which the mount bolts.


Here's the top plate bolted in place, four long 3/8" bolts going up through the plate and compressing the riser tube, which is made from a short piece of 4" ABS pipe. The flange and nuts around the top of the riser are purely cosmetic. The cables run through the side pipes and down through the top plate, then are pulled back between the top and bottom plates.


A top view of the top plate, all built up out of 1/4" plexglas. Since my projector has lens shift capability I didn't make the mount able to pan, but if it had been necessary, the 4 bolts holes could have been milled into short slots. The circular ring fits inside the ABS riser, lining everything up nicely.


The top plate mounted to the projector. Again, 1/4" plex with additional strips around the outside edges to add visual thickness.



My complements to MonkeyMan for his initial mount design. It's very straight forward, works great and could be easily dressed to fit in with the design of my theater.

Now I have to make a themed shell to enclose the projector...

Dave

"I just want to say people... Get A Life! Move out of your parent's basement! It's just a movie!"

The Nautilus Screening Room

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
BungalowFilms is offline  
post #305 of 328 Old 12-20-2008, 12:38 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,181
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 27
That is....awesome....wow!!!!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Monkey_Man is offline  
post #306 of 328 Old 12-21-2008, 12:30 PM
Senior Member
 
Thuppu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Finland
Posts: 201
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Here is my diy mount...







Thuppu is offline  
post #307 of 328 Old 02-15-2009, 02:03 PM
Member
 
staindrocks's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 58
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I just got a Benq w5000, and it's a pretty big and heavy projector(21 lbs.). I wanted to go with the monkey man mount, but i'm concerned about the weight. Will this mount have any problem holding the Benq? Also, i went to Lowes and got all the parts listed in the parts list, but when i came home i found out that the 4mm rod is way too small for this projector. I actually got hardware(nuts, bolts, threaded rod) in 4,6,8, and 10mm...and all are too small. I can push the 10mm into the screw hole of the projector, barely, without the need to screw it in. So i think it might take 12mm, but then again, it could be 14mm. I also notice that these numbers don't come alone, but they are followed by a dash and a second number(as in 10-24, or 10-32). I believe these second numbers are supposed to refer to the thread pattern. So here's my question: Does anyone know the correct size screw/threaded rod that the Benq w5000 takes to mount it? If not, is there any place online that could tell me?

Update:
Never mind the questions i posted. All of my questions have been answered elsewhere, so all is good!
staindrocks is offline  
post #308 of 328 Old 04-11-2009, 07:00 PM
Member
 
glend123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Grayslake, IL
Posts: 68
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Here is my low profile mount. I have low basement ceiling (7'6"). I made it from 1/4" alum. Luckily I have access to the cad/cam software and cnc machines to do this.




glend123 is offline  
post #309 of 328 Old 07-10-2009, 01:51 PM
Newbie
 
GeorgiaDad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Monkey-man....your mount lives on! This is the one I made for my Infocus X9.

GeorgiaDad is offline  
post #310 of 328 Old 11-17-2009, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Monkey_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: East Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 1,181
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Awesome and creative mounts guys, nice work!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Monkey_Man is offline  
post #311 of 328 Old 01-19-2010, 05:22 PM
Newbie
 
polerz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi guys,

Impressive DIY mount by MonkeyMan and co. I hope people still read this thread...

I read on one of the pages in this thread about installing a green LED near the mount, so the projector looks like its floating. Has anyone ever done this? If so, could you please post photos of what it looks like? I'd be very interested to see how it looks.

Reason I ask is, the only place I can get power for my projector within the roof is a nearby light fitting which I have removed. This means the projector will have a switch upstream of it. It would be nice if the switch flicked an LED light on or something as well as the projector, rather than having a light switch dedicated to a projector (seems a bit stupid).

Thanks
polerz is offline  
post #312 of 328 Old 02-22-2010, 11:20 AM
Newbie
 
jceg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just want to say thank you to Monkey_man and all the great posts in this thread.
I am brand new to the home theater projector thing, but was recently given an older 720p DLP projector that I decided to hook up as my console gaming display. After building the original mount design I discovered that my projector had a fixed lens, so I had to mount it at just the right distance from my screen to get the size correct. Of course that location turned out to be directly underneath a ceiling fan. So I took the original idea and just expanded on it. Two vertical mounts screwed into ceiling joists made with 3/4" pipe, 1" tee's with 3/4" reducers, a 6' pipe connecting the two, and the projector hanging from that. The projector can move back and forth to get the picture size correct now. The tee's are all drilled and tapped for a bolt to tighten everything in place once its all set up.

It's pretty rough looking, but it worked great, and gaming on a ~100" screen has been totally worth the time and effort.

jceg is offline  
post #313 of 328 Old 02-22-2010, 01:38 PM
Senior Member
 
Imageek2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 390
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jceg View Post

I just want to say thank you to Monkey_man and all the great posts in this thread.
I am brand new to the home theater projector thing, but was recently given an older 720p DLP projector that I decided to hook up as my console gaming display. After building the original mount design I discovered that my projector had a fixed lens, so I had to mount it at just the right distance from my screen to get the size correct. Of course that location turned out to be directly underneath a ceiling fan. So I took the original idea and just expanded on it. Two vertical mounts screwed into ceiling joists made with 3/4" pipe, 1" tee's with 3/4" reducers, a 6' pipe connecting the two, and the projector hanging from that. The projector can move back and forth to get the picture size correct now. The tee's are all drilled and tapped for a bolt to tighten everything in place once its all set up.

It's pretty rough looking, but it worked great, and gaming on a ~100" screen has been totally worth the time and effort.

Wow! I salute you for your ingenuity and creativity. That's great!

When the moon is in the Seventh House
And Jupiter aligns with Mars
Then peace will guide the planets
And love will steer the stars.
Imageek2 is offline  
post #314 of 328 Old 02-22-2010, 02:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jim McC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oconomowoc, WI.
Posts: 5,897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by jceg View Post

I just want to say thank you to Monkey_man and all the great posts in this thread.
I am brand new to the home theater projector thing, but was recently given an older 720p DLP projector that I decided to hook up as my console gaming display. After building the original mount design I discovered that my projector had a fixed lens, so I had to mount it at just the right distance from my screen to get the size correct. Of course that location turned out to be directly underneath a ceiling fan. So I took the original idea and just expanded on it. Two vertical mounts screwed into ceiling joists made with 3/4" pipe, 1" tee's with 3/4" reducers, a 6' pipe connecting the two, and the projector hanging from that. The projector can move back and forth to get the picture size correct now. The tee's are all drilled and tapped for a bolt to tighten everything in place once its all set up.

It's pretty rough looking, but it worked great, and gaming on a ~100" screen has been totally worth the time and effort.


Cool!! And it doubles as a chin-up bar.
Jim McC is offline  
post #315 of 328 Old 11-30-2010, 01:03 PM
Newbie
 
juggleitup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm going to see if I can rejuvenate an old thread here

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

Should be the same results. This mount will work with any PJ under 10 pounds.


Has anyone tried this with a heavier projector? I love the design
and would like to try it with my heavy Epson 8350 (16lbs). I could go up to 3/8 in. plexi if I need to. Does anyone think this mount would have any problems with that weight?
juggleitup is offline  
post #316 of 328 Old 11-30-2010, 01:11 PM
Newbie
 
jceg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Nice! I'm not sure on the 3/8" plexi part, but I recently bought an Epson 8350 myself and retooled my giganto-mount into the standard configuration for this type of DIY mount. It used 1/2" MDF for the mount and it's fine. Just make sure you are mounting it to a ceiling joist
jceg is offline  
post #317 of 328 Old 11-30-2010, 05:14 PM
Advanced Member
 
HDGTX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SE TN
Posts: 681
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Great thread you guys!
OP, which post has your latest & best deign for a projector mount ?


Thanks,
John
HDGTX is offline  
post #318 of 328 Old 12-07-2010, 06:36 AM
Member
 
CeridianMN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 74
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Any day now I will be putting together the non-dedicated theater room. The last big thing I need to completely visualize and plan is the projector mount. Using this one is a no-brainer. However, there are slight complications.

I am using a short-throw DLP which means no zoom and no lens shift. The room is not dedicated, so we want ot be able to run the projector in two "modes." One is a large movie/gaming mode with a 110" screen. The other would be a regular mode with a screen closer to 50". (The projector is what it is for Wii gaming in front of the screen and 3D.)

To accomplish this I plan to install some sort of track that the projector will hang from. It will be close to the ceiling as it is only 8' high. This track needs to do one thing that complicates the matter. It needs to be close to the ceiling when the projector is back, but when the projector is slid forward it needs to come down a good 1.5-2 feet. I think it would be best if only the far end came down, like a hinge.

It would be best if there is a way to slide the projector side to side a good couple inches or so as well due to the lack of any adjustements on the projector.

Does anyone have anything like that? Has anyone seen anything like that? Any neat ideas from anyone? I'm going to spend some quality time at HD in the near future trying to work out a solution. The MM style mount will be attached to whatever hangs from the track and I am not to worried about that part.
CeridianMN is offline  
post #319 of 328 Old 12-17-2010, 11:08 AM
Senior Member
 
AVS66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 240
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I want to thank you Monkey_Man for initiated this thread and everyone who contributed the ideas. I have Optoma HD180 using M3. Bought a bracket from mono. It's ok but the adjustment is not good. Followed this thread, I made one yesterday. I couldn't find M3 with 3 in long at Lowes or Ace hardware. The longest I could find was 40 mm (1.5 in). So I used two plates like other's. The cost is about the same as mono's (close to $20) but the ability of adjustment is that what I wanted
AVS66 is offline  
post #320 of 328 Old 02-14-2011, 09:53 AM
Member
 
wonderbun99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by juggleitup View Post

Has anyone tried this with a heavier projector? I love the design
and would like to try it with my heavy Epson 8350 (16lbs). I could go up to 3/8 in. plexi if I need to. Does anyone think this mount would have any problems with that weight?

Hi
I built this awesome MonkeyMan mount way back in '04 for my PT-AE300 projector, and still love it today.
This week I move up to the Epson 8700 (same size and weight as 8350 mentioned above.)
Instead of the plexiglass, I'm going with a laminated printed circuit board I found in the scrap pile at work. It's 30 layers thick and extremely stiff and less than 1/4". I'm not sure about 1/4" plexiglass, or if something stronger is needed for these PJs. I think the other thing to consider is the ceiling fixture--I'll be testing with my original flange and seeing how stable it is--will post back soon.

I assume you mounted the 8350 by now--what did you do?
- Paul
wonderbun99 is offline  
post #321 of 328 Old 03-15-2011, 06:20 AM
Member
 
wonderbun99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just remembered to update this thread with the results of my Monkeyman mount on the Epson 8700: works like a charm. I painted the circuit board white to match the PJ and ceiling, and the whole thing is awesome! There's about 1/4" of flex in the PCB, across its entire span. Not negligible, but certainly acceptable.
wonderbun99 is offline  
post #322 of 328 Old 10-16-2011, 09:28 AM
Rgb
AVS Special Member
 
Rgb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 6,891
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Bump to keep the spirit alive :-)

Kudos to the creativity displayed throughout the thread.

The sliding pipe setup was pure genius engineering problem solving at its finest!

The 20,000 leagues under the sea adaptation demonstrates the flexibility of the design.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Rgb is offline  
post #323 of 328 Old 11-07-2011, 10:07 PM
Member
 
Burtgolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Savannah, Texas
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Have my basic Monkey_Man mount built, still need to paint it but figured I would put it here and give a HUGE thanks for sharing this great idea, I am guessing inflation has caused the floor flanges, steel pipe and M4 (super hard to find) bolts to go up a TAD bit in prices!

I used the 1 1/4 floor flanges and pipe so I could run my super thick HDMI cable and Power cord through the pipe, so I had to bore a hole through both the mount and the mount above the ceiling.

I could not be happier about it and positive once I get the room finished it will be seamless with no cables visible almost at all.

Thanks again for your idea and willingness to share it for non visionary folks like myself!
LL
LL
LL
LL
Burtgolf is offline  
post #324 of 328 Old 11-17-2011, 09:03 AM
Member
 
thoomin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Monkey Man lives on.

Built this tonight for my new 3010. Keep having the fear that it's going to come flying out of the wall, but I know it won't. 13 pounds just isn't as heavy as I want to think, and those are 2 brackets both screwed into studs. It's not going anywhere. I'm fairly sure the 1/4" plexi isn't breaking either.

I picked up the vizio wireless hdmi at costco today, but it's going back. The dumb thing about it is that it can't be self- or battery-powered, so I have to run a power cord up there anyway. For less than $170 I can definitely pick up a good HDMI cable and run that up the wall. Still, having that shelf above the projector gave a great place to put it.

Now to figure out how to get the lens cap on and off...it's ~9.5' up the wall.

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
thoomin is offline  
post #325 of 328 Old 11-17-2011, 12:45 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jim McC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oconomowoc, WI.
Posts: 5,897
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 32
There's no reason to put the lens cap on. If you take it on and off, you'll have to refocus it every time.
Jim McC is offline  
post #326 of 328 Old 03-28-2012, 07:54 AM
Advanced Member
 
PatrickGSR94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 555
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Thought I'd bring this back up as I completely overhauled my DIY mounting after going from a *tiny* InFocus SP4805 projector to a *huge* Panny AR100U last weekend.

Old mounting, ca. early 2006 and no it never got painted lol:


It had some flex out there at the end of the "shelf" and the new projector is much heavier, so I figured I'd beef it up. I wanted to keep the upper shelf the same size and brackets in the same place, as the brackets go directly into exterior wall studs spaced 16" o.c.





To completely eliminate flexing I braced the top back to the wall using a block on the wall attached to the studs (couldn't get the braces directly in line with the studs).



The plan is to take it all back down this weekend and caulk, fill nail holes, and paint it all black to match the other trim and doors in the room. If only the projector were black....

And yes I will be doing something with the cables. I actually made a notch in the upper shelf for cables to pass down from above, but forgot to cut the same notch in the plate that the projector hangs from. So I'll be cutting that this weekend also.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
PatrickGSR94 is offline  
post #327 of 328 Old 11-15-2012, 02:37 PM
Newbie
 
anilsnanji's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
For those of you who live in an apartment like myself and do not have permission to make random (or at all) holes in the wall or ceiling mad.gif, this is what I just built to overcome my projector mount issue. rolleyes.gif

Surprisingly it turned out much better then I had originally imagined it be and quite stable as well. Of course, it is still needs finishing touches such as wood polish, wiring duct and screws to mount the power board to the side of the pole.

The materials (wood, wood screws, L-Shape brackets, wire duct and wood polish) for this project cost me $28 from Bunnings Warehouse, Australia.Since I used solid wood which made the cost is a bit higher or it would of come out to be $24. biggrin.gif



anilsnanji is offline  
post #328 of 328 Old 06-24-2014, 05:50 AM
Senior Member
 
edved1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 380
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by anilsnanji View Post
For those of you who live in an apartment like myself and do not have permission to make random (or at all) holes in the wall or ceiling <img alt="mad.gif" class="bbcode_smiley" src="http://files.avsforum.com/images/smilies/mad.gif">, this is what I just built to overcome my projector mount issue. <img alt="rolleyes.gif" class="bbcode_smiley" src="http://files.avsforum.com/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif"><br><br>
Surprisingly it turned out much better then I had originally imagined it be and quite stable as well. Of course, it is still needs finishing touches such as wood polish, wiring duct and screws to mount the power board to the side of the pole.<br><br>
The materials (wood, wood screws, L-Shape brackets, wire duct and wood polish) for this project cost me $28 from Bunnings Warehouse, Australia.Since I used solid wood which made the cost is a bit higher or it would of come out to be $24. <img alt="biggrin.gif" class="bbcode_smiley" src="http://files.avsforum.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif"><br><br><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/90280/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="90280" data-type="61" src="http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/90280/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 585px"></a><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/90281/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="90281" data-type="61" src="http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/90281/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 585px"></a>
That's great! May have to give it a try!
edved1 is offline  
Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off