My DIY mount for L300u $20 :) - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 328 Old 07-07-2003, 08:26 PM
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Yes, very much so.

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post #92 of 328 Old 07-09-2003, 05:05 PM
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I already have 3/16" plexiglass at home. Do you guys think this is thick enough? Or should I double up to create 6/16"?
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post #93 of 328 Old 07-09-2003, 05:10 PM
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I couldn't find 1" compression springs. Would 1 1/2" do?

I also couldn't find fender washers. The guy at Ace Hardware didn't even know what they were. Is there another name for it?
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post #94 of 328 Old 07-09-2003, 08:32 PM
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BookerT, I used 3/16" plexi and did indeed double it up just to be on the safe side. So, if you look at the pictures that I posted earlier, what I have is two levels of double-thickness 3/16" plexi. It flexes just a tad bit, but that's it.

As for the compression springs, it really just depends upon how strong the compression is and how long of a bolt you plan on utilizing. If the compression isn't out of control hard, then you shouldn't have a problem.

I can't think of another name off the top of my head for fender washers. It might help to describe what they look like to the sales person at Ace (or find someone who seems to know what they are talking about). Fender washers are different from regular washers in that instead of having a fairly decent size hole with a minimal width between the bolt hole and the outer diameter, they have a relatively small hole in comparison to the overall diameter of the washer. So, with say a 1/2" regular washer, you would have a 1/2" hole and something like a 3/4" or 1" outside diameter. A 1/2" fender washer will have a 1/2" bolt hole with something like a 2 1/2" or 3" outside diameter.

Hope this helps. If you have a Lowe's or a Home Depot, that may be your best bet. Otherwise stop by your local auto parts store. Chances are good that they will have them.

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post #95 of 328 Old 07-10-2003, 09:20 AM
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Given the risks of shorting, the hassle of finding the right parts, and the simple fact that these DIY mounts don't look as good or adjust as easily as a commercial mount (sorry guys, it's true) - is it really worth saving $150? I mean, come on, between your projector (~$1700), receiver, video source, speakers and sub, and interconnects we've all got at least $3000 in our systems. Is a 5% savings worth this? That being said, I have cheaped out on a Parkland DIY screen, but I view the $500 savings as significant.

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post #96 of 328 Old 07-10-2003, 09:44 AM
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Honestly, the risks associated with shorting out the projector are minuscule as long as you take heed to the warnings and posts that have been put on this thread and all over the forum. As for the DIY mounts not looking as good as the commercial units, that in my opinion is in the eye of the beholder. To me, my mount that I pieced together for less than $30 is considerably more attractive than any commercial units that I have seen. Plus, the added satisfaction of telling visitors that I constructed it myself and the considerable savings that I was then able to pass along to something more worthy of spending a higher dollar amount on is immeasurable. And I would tend to disagree somewhat when you say that the DIY mounts aren't as easy to adjust. I have four independent bolts at all axies of the projector, thus allowing me to dial in just about any adjustment I need. All I would then need to do in order to make it fully adjustable is to place the mounting post on a track, thus allowing me to move it both forwards and backwards and side to side.

I see your point, but same argument could very easily be started regarding your use of a Parkland screen. Is the $500 savings significant enough to sacrifice a potential gain in picture quality, contrast, saturation, etc. by going with a premade screen from Stewart or others? I think so, but then again, I built my own mount.

Everything's always subject to an individual's personal tastes and whether they feel it is worth spending the extra time on something to build it yourself.

I just don't want this to discourage anyone from trying to build this on their own. It's pretty easy, takes very little time, and costs virtually nothing. If you build it and you don't like it, I don't think that it would be very hard to turn around and sell it to someone else for the money you have into it.

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post #97 of 328 Old 07-10-2003, 09:56 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by jimvander9
Given the risks of shorting, the hassle of finding the right parts, and the simple fact that these DIY mounts don't look as good or adjust as easily as a commercial mount (sorry guys, it's true) - is it really worth saving $150? I mean, come on, between your projector (~$1700), receiver, video source, speakers and sub, and interconnects we've all got at least $3000 in our systems. Is a 5% savings worth this? That being said, I have cheaped out on a Parkland DIY screen, but I view the $500 savings as significant.

Savings is saving. These guys are being creative and I think its great If you want to spend $150 for a mount go right ahead. The mounts these guys are coming up with also look great. I was gona buy a mount but after I saw this thread I decided im going to make one instead because it will be fun and there is a certain amount pride in doing things yourself.
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post #98 of 328 Old 07-10-2003, 10:11 AM
 
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I was able to add 12 DVDs to my collection by the savings on my mount!

Anyway, just how much adjustments are really made once you have it ceiling mounted? It's like Ron Popiel says: "set it and forget it"!

I have yet to have a guest ever mention my mount, let alone even notice it.

Does it really look that bad?
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post #99 of 328 Old 07-10-2003, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


Originally posted by jimvander9
Given the risks of shorting, the hassle of finding the right parts, and the simple fact that these DIY mounts don't look as good or adjust as easily as a commercial mount (sorry guys, it's true) - is it really worth saving $150? I mean, come on, between your projector (~$1700), receiver, video source, speakers and sub, and interconnects we've all got at least $3000 in our systems. Is a 5% savings worth this? That being said, I have cheaped out on a Parkland DIY screen, but I view the $500 savings as significant.

I see your point however after I bought my PJ I was broke on fun budget. Also I get satisfaction of building my own hardware i.e. stereo stand saved $500, DIY screen saved another $500, and PJ mount saved $120. I'm looking at the whole picture. That's $1200 in DIY.
I'm not justifying my mount but it's extremely adjustable, easy to modify, and in my opinion is better looking. All well it's nice we are able to voice our opinions
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post #100 of 328 Old 07-10-2003, 12:52 PM
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Monkey Man,

Thanks for saving me $160+ so I have more money to spend elsewhere in my HT. I built a DIY mount inspired by your original design, I got to said it looks a lot better than the In-Focus mount and extension which are going for about $186 plus shipping. I must be a idiot if I could short my projector out. No such luck and this thing is working beautifully. Just can't see spending 23% of the projector cost on a ceiling mount if I don't have to. I just don't have the means as others on this forum.

BTW, I bought my screen. Just can't figure out how to do a pull down that is nicer than Stewart or Da-Lite. The savings from the ceiling mount got me half of the screen.

Anyway thanks again.

MIKeTC
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post #101 of 328 Old 07-10-2003, 01:23 PM
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I can't get any pictures up for a while, but here's how we did our L300U DIY mount. We cut a piece of plexiglass to fit the bottom of the projector, but extended it out over the sides by a few inches (could have used some plywood or something too, no real reason for the plexiglass - just what my construction guy felt like using). We mounted 2 square blocks of wood onto the ceiling. Then we just screwed the plexiglass into the wood on the ceiling. Since the plexiglass extended a couple inches to each side, it less us screw upwards without worrying about clearance above the projector. So the projector hangs down about 6 inches from the ceiling (the depth of the 2 wood plates). We covered the edges of the wood plates with molding and painted it black (or whatever choice of coloring). It actually looks really nice. Its a good, easy solution for someone that has very little ceiling clearance to deal with (only got 7' ceilings so didn't need it to hang down very far). I'll post some pics when I can as my explanation might not have made a lot of sense - computers are currently disconnected due to the ongoing construction down there.
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post #102 of 328 Old 07-10-2003, 07:46 PM
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Some more questions I have:

1. How should I center the pipe on flang on the plexiglass, with respect to the entire plexiglass or the 4 machine screws?

2. I don't think I'll be using the compression springs as I can't find the right size and the finishing washers. So without the compression spring, is this correct for what goes on the machine screw in order from top to bottom: wing nut, flat washer, plexiglass, flat washer, hex nut, middle of machine screw, hex nut, flat washer, projector. Is that right? I bought some lock washers, will I still need them without the springs, and if so, where would they go?

3. I'm having trouble detecting the ceiling joists with the stud detector I bought, a Zircon Pro SL that scans 1 and 1/2" thick. It seems to be detecting a joist almost everywhere on the ceiling, and I'm having a hard to knowing where a joist is. Any tips? I'm tried it on a wall and it works fine.

Thank you.
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post #103 of 328 Old 07-29-2003, 09:18 AM
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Here is my rendition of this design. I used 1/4 inch MDF for the mounting plates and some 3/4 inch rounds left over from a speaker building project. The mounting plates are both 8x10 inches which allows enough room around the edge to remove the filter.

By using two plates I was able to get away with using 1/2 inch M4 screws which also eliminates the problem of getting the mounting screws too deep into the body of the projector. The longer screws are 3" #8s countersunk up from under the plate mounted to the projector and locked down on top with nuts.

I've modified the ceiling attachment since this photo was taken. Now I am using carriage bolts through over-sized holes to allow a bit of rotational adjustment.

Now I just have to tear it all down and paint it.

All the other DIY mounts look great! Thanks for the inspiration.
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post #104 of 328 Old 10-07-2003, 12:42 AM
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do i need to ground the projector when using this kind of mount system?
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post #105 of 328 Old 10-07-2003, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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post #106 of 328 Old 10-28-2003, 12:56 PM
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Thanks to this thread and forum....I built my mount for less than $20 with the supplies listed. The only difference I used a 8" long pipe. If you want to see pics go to my website

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post #107 of 328 Old 12-29-2003, 08:40 AM
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Does anyone know if this mount will work for the AE500/L500U? I thought I saw somewhere that it should, but now I can't find it. Hopefully someone can shed some light on this subject.
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post #108 of 328 Old 12-29-2003, 09:32 AM
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Yes, same mounting screw size, metric M4 and i have read it somewhere, location of the mounting hole are the same as well. By the way, u can't beat this mount and I really like the wing nuts. You can adjust the level back/forth/left/right on the PJ using the wing nuts. If you are wondering about PJ mount level, this is an alternate cheap solution for len shift with at small degree. hope that helps
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post #109 of 328 Old 03-05-2004, 03:26 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by BookerT
Some more questions I have:

1. How should I center the pipe on flang on the plexiglass, with respect to the entire plexiglass or the 4 machine screws?

2. I don't think I'll be using the compression springs as I can't find the right size and the finishing washers. So without the compression spring, is this correct for what goes on the machine screw in order from top to bottom: wing nut, flat washer, plexiglass, flat washer, hex nut, middle of machine screw, hex nut, flat washer, projector. Is that right? I bought some lock washers, will I still need them without the springs, and if so, where would they go?

3. I'm having trouble detecting the ceiling joists with the stud detector I bought, a Zircon Pro SL that scans 1 and 1/2" thick. It seems to be detecting a joist almost everywhere on the ceiling, and I'm having a hard to knowing where a joist is. Any tips? I'm tried it on a wall and it works fine.

Thank you.

May be way too late, but for #3 I think your problem is that alot of times they attach drywall to ceilings, they will use metal braces going all across the ceiling which will set your stud finder off. Measure every 16" from a wall until you are in the general area, then shove a nail through the "general area" until you hit a stud. cover up any mistakes with joint compound viola
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post #110 of 328 Old 04-12-2004, 03:47 AM
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WHAT DOES M4 MEAN? 4mm? aren't there different thread sizes too?

thanks
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post #111 of 328 Old 04-12-2004, 05:18 AM
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M4 is a screw size. Go to home depot and look in all those drawers, you will find M# screws.

Someday maybe I'll actually WATCH my projector...
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post #112 of 328 Old 04-12-2004, 10:15 AM
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well unfortunately there is no home depot where i currently reside (philippines), anyone know if "m4" goes by any other monickers?
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post #113 of 328 Old 04-12-2004, 10:21 AM
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Ah, sorry Brian. I was thrown by your "Location" field . I thought if you looked in this thread, there were other descriptions for them.

Someday maybe I'll actually WATCH my projector...
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post #114 of 328 Old 04-12-2004, 12:04 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by brianluce
WHAT DOES M4 MEAN? 4mm? aren't there different thread sizes too?

thanks

M4 is a metric machine screw of nominal 4mm dia. some specs here . In the US, metric fasteners are way too expensive.

Shankar
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post #115 of 328 Old 04-12-2004, 12:30 PM
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M4 screws aren't very easy to find -- the longer 2-3" ones anyway. After looking at several Lowes & Home Depot stores, I finally found them at ACE Hardware.

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post #116 of 328 Old 05-03-2004, 12:34 PM
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I am building this mount with a 44" drop on a vaulted
ceiling with a 34 degree pitch.

Anybody have a simple
idea on how to attach to the vaulted
ceiling?
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post #117 of 328 Old 06-04-2004, 10:15 AM
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Well I, like many have searched far and wide for these darn bolts around home and have come up empty.
However, I have found a solution...Maryland Metrics.
http://mdmetric.com/
I gave them a call and was able to get 75mm long bolts.
They have a minimum order of $10 so I had to order 19, but the ship UPS and they should be here in 2 days.
I forgot to ask if the were all or partial thread though.

The Entertainment Cave II coming soon.

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post #118 of 328 Old 06-09-2004, 10:55 AM
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Update, those M4X75mm bolts arrived and they were all thread.
They came in 2 days via UPS so now you have a source.

The Entertainment Cave II coming soon.

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post #119 of 328 Old 07-07-2004, 07:39 AM
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Monkey Man. I recently purchased a Sony HS20 and planned to mount it using a manufactured ceiling mount. For some reason potential vendors showed little interest in providing design/installation info so I decided to try a DIY mount. I found your posting with pictures and parts lists and gave it a go. My Sony is now up and running and I could'nt be happier with the mount, especially it's adjustment features. Thanks for taking the time to furnish your design info and helping out other Home Theater enthusiasts.
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post #120 of 328 Old 07-07-2004, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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RadarRa:
I'm so glad I could help you. Enjoy
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