My DIY mount for L300u $20 :) - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 328 Old 08-01-2005, 09:43 AM
 
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I used PVC pipe and fed all cables through.
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post #182 of 328 Old 08-01-2005, 09:44 AM
 
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painted with "textured flat black"


I wish I painted the screws.
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post #183 of 328 Old 08-01-2005, 05:35 PM
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MidLife,

So are those steel flanges with PVC Pipe then? Can you describe your parts, as I can't seem to find flanges in either ABS or PVC.

I'm not sure that I'm going to be able to route cables through the pipe, but I'd like to have the details of your parts just in case I can.

Thanks!
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post #184 of 328 Old 08-02-2005, 07:24 AM
 
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steel flanges for 1 1/2" pipe, I think.
The PVC is 1 1/2" regular schedule 40 painted.
They make fittings with the same thread as the steel flanges.
I checked and partly assembled in the store just to be sure.
I used 1 1/2" pipe primarily for the DVI connector. I had to shave a little off the conector to get it to go through.
It been up about two years now.
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post #185 of 328 Old 08-02-2005, 03:40 PM
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Thansk, MidLife. I only looked at my local Ace Hardware for parts, so I'll expand my search to the big box stores.
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post #186 of 328 Old 08-23-2005, 10:23 PM
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Hi -- I'm going to build this mount in the next couple days.

I was wondering if anyone who has made the basic Monkey Man version could tell me the height from the ceiling to the projector, and what length of pipe was used? I know the screw adjustments give a range of height adjustments, but I kind of need to get in the ballpark to pick a pipe length.

Thanks.
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post #187 of 328 Old 08-24-2005, 07:46 AM
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The length of the pipe depends on how high your ceiling is, how high your screen is, and what the vertical offset of your projector is. Obviously, with those three variables unknown, you'll have to figure that one out on your own. The cool thing with the Depots and Lowes is that you can buy one of each size and just return the ones you don't use. You could also try my height adjustable version if you have an attic or drop ceiling:

www.pbase.com/mustang100/mount

Bobby

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post #188 of 328 Old 08-24-2005, 09:34 AM
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Thanks Bobby. What I meant was, I know how far from the ceiling I want the projector -- the same height it's sitting at now on a makeshift shelf. If I know how far from the ceiling a mount puts the projector with a given pipe length, I can figure out the pipe length needed for my setup. But since I'm sure I'll end up going to Home Depot numerous times anyway, your suggestion to just return what I don't use will work fine.
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post #189 of 328 Old 09-06-2005, 08:33 AM
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post #190 of 328 Old 01-29-2006, 06:43 PM
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you guys are great for taking time to share I did mine in about 2 hours time today..so far so good...need to put in some longer springs(really not necessary)check the link in my sig for pics
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post #191 of 328 Old 02-11-2006, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by am_pcguy View Post

finally got the room far enough along to mount the projector. Thanks Monkyman for the great design. I replaced the plexi-glass with a 1/8" stainless steal sheet. It works pretty good but it does bow a little when you tighten the wingnuts too far. I'm going to try a 1/4" sheet of Aluminum as it will be more rigid.


You have a pm.
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post #192 of 328 Old 02-15-2006, 01:43 PM
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I updated my AE700 monkeyman projector mount posted earlier in this thread to MidLife's design, using 1.5" dia galvanized pipe and matching flanges for cable pass through capability.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...54#post5217354

While the updated 1.5" ID flanges have a much larger OD than my original iteration shown in the link above, there is more than enough room inside the AE700 bolt pattern to fit the larger flange. The larger flange required (4) new 5/16 holes to be drilled in the plexiglas, as well as a hole cut out of the plexiglas coincident with the flange centerline to allow the connectors and cables to pass through.

I used the original small flange holes to insert a hacksaw blade, then manually cut out a 1.5" square opening by cutting to each of the holes.

The larger flanges use 5/16 x 1" bolts on the plexiglas end, and 5/16 x 1.5" lag bolts on the ceiling side. I removed the original plywood homebrew scissor lift shown in the earlier photos, so the upper flange is mated to a plywood plate that spans two joists above the drop ceiling in the basement.

My updated mount is compatible with an AE900, which uses the same bolt pattern and fastener diameter/thread, though I will continue to use my AE700.

I plan to post updated pics in a week or two.
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post #193 of 328 Old 02-15-2006, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Very nice! way to go!
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post #194 of 328 Old 02-17-2006, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

Very nice! way to go!

Monkey Man,

What are your thoughts on the two plexiglass plate idea instead of one? It sounds like extra work but may be worthwhile since one can take the PJ down without having to remove the ceiling mount portion. I can't wait to try out my new Z4 so hopefully I can get this thing built tomorrow in short order; assuming all the pieces can be found easily.

Greg
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post #195 of 328 Old 02-17-2006, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I know some people had nice success with the two plate system. I say go for it and report back!
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post #196 of 328 Old 02-17-2006, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

I know some people had nice success with the two plate system. I say go for it and report back!

I just got back from Home Depot and got everything but the plexiglass. I'll have to get that tomorrow. I should have everything finished tomorrow afternoon including the mounting of my Gray Wolf screen. I'll post back when all is done.

Greg
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post #197 of 328 Old 02-20-2006, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Matty View Post

I just got back from Home Depot and got everything but the plexiglass.

Greg

Where did you end up getting the plexi? I have not been to HD, but lowes has .08 thickness and that will not be nearly strong enough. The .22 thickness is about $30 IIRC.

Dave
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post #198 of 328 Old 02-23-2006, 08:52 AM
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There really is no strict rule that you have to use plexiglass. Any rigid material should be fine.

1/2" plywood, MDF, etc.
1/8" aluminum or steel plate sheet.
1/4" Acrylic, Polycarbonate, PVC sheet.

If you really want clear, check out Freckleface.com

Acrylic is plenty strong, but if you want bulletproof (literally), go for polycarbonate (lexan).

Bobby

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post #199 of 328 Old 02-23-2006, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darman View Post

Where did you end up getting the plexi? I have not been to HD, but lowes has .08 thickness and that will not be nearly strong enough. The .22 thickness is about $30 IIRC.

Dave

Dave,

Search an ebay search for 12" x 12" lexan. I found a supplier that sent me two pieces of 3/8" lexan for $25 or whatever it was. It was a little more or a little less than that but it is pre-cut to the dimensions I need.

I bought 1/4" stuff at Lowes and there display made it appear easy to score and then break the material. Yeah right. Maybe with 1/8" lexan but not the 1/4". I bought their little utility knife and tried to score the lexan to 1/3 it's thickness per there recommedation and after 10 minutes of attempting to get the blade in the exact same place I had enough. I put a towel over the lexan and snapped it in two. Surprisingly, it bent over 45 degrees before breaking. Well naturally it didn't break in a perfectly straight line so I had to do it again. I still didn't get it right. But between the two breaks I had two pieces that would work well enough so I began the process of marking holes and began to drill. Make sure you get a drill bit designed for plastic or it will splinter. I used an ordinary wood drill bit and a few chunks broke off as the bit punched through.

To top it off, my Z4 is heavy enough the the 1/4" Lowes lexan I used still flexes with holes drilled ten inches apart. WIth the 3/8" stuff that is on the way, I'll drill holes 8 inches apart and coupled with the increased thickness, I should get no more sagging.

I would have used a wood product, but all the panel type of material I sampled was too flexible for my tastes. If someone can recommend a wood or composite material please do so. Drilling through lexan is not as fool-proof as wood is.

So if you need lexan, do yourself a favor and buy it precut from that guy at ebay. The two 12" x 12" pieces 3/8" thick should be perfect.

Greg
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post #200 of 328 Old 02-24-2006, 10:41 AM
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Keep in mind that Lexan (polycarbonate) is a more flexible variety of clear plastic than Acrylic is. They'll claim lexan is so many times stronger, but it really means it can take more impact before shattering because it is more flexible (think of a baseball hitting it as a window replacement for glass). My particular mount uses 1/4" acrylic and it doesn't flex at all.

As I mentioned, Freckleface.com has the absolute lowest price I've found (I've checked about every supplier online due to another project I have going on).

http://freckleface.com/shopsite_sc/s...product37.html $6 sheet + $6 shipping.

They also have 3/8" if that would make you feel better, but it'll just be a little harder to cut and drill.

You really only need to use a single plate to make a working mount. I can appreciate the functionality of the second plate but it is just not necessary in practice.

Bobby

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post #201 of 328 Old 02-24-2006, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post

Keep in mind that Lexan (polycarbonate) is a more flexible variety of clear plastic than Acrylic is. They'll claim lexan is so many times stronger, but it really means it can take more impact before shattering because it is more flexible (think of a baseball hitting it as a window replacement for glass). My particular mount uses 1/4" acrylic and it doesn't flex at all.

As I mentioned, Freckleface.com has the absolute lowest price I've found (I've checked about every supplier online due to another project I have going on).

http://freckleface.com/shopsite_sc/s...product37.html $6 sheet + $6 shipping.

They also have 3/8" if that would make you feel better, but it'll just be a little harder to cut and drill.

You really only need to use a single plate to make a working mount. I can appreciate the functionality of the second plate but it is just not necessary in practice.

Bobby

I'll keef freckleface in mind as my 3/8" lexan has yet to show up . . .

With regard to your last comments I disagree. I much prefer to have the PJ mounted securely to one piece of lexan with four separate screws connecting the two pieces together. I guess it still isn't necessary, but then the PJ isn't a necessity either.

Either way, whatever works for people.

Greg
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post #202 of 328 Old 02-25-2006, 09:14 AM
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IMHO the only reason to use a secondary plate securly mounted to the PJ is is your mounting bosses do not bottom out. On my mount, the screws go through a nut, washer, mounting plate then into the PJ into which they are bottomed out. Any levelling adjustments are made simply by spinning the nuts on the top of the mounting plate.

Of course, anyone can do whatever they feel like doing but I just wanted to stress that I achieve exactly the same functionality with less hardware.

Bobby

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post #203 of 328 Old 03-05-2006, 11:07 PM
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hi there well im about to start making one of these awsome mounts, but ive got a big problem, my PJ is an Acer P525, and it doesnt have 4 nice threaded holes like all the pjs here do all it seeams to have is 2 holes one bigger than the other and they are very close to each other, ill get a pic of the bottom of the pj ASAP but you can take a look at the mount that is designed for it

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...Tab=1&NoMapp=0

please help me solve this as i really cant afford buying one of these expensive mounts. thanks
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post #204 of 328 Old 03-06-2006, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.D. View Post

hi there well im about to start making one of these awsome mounts, but ive got a big problem, my PJ is an Acer P525, and it doesnt have 4 nice threaded holes like all the pjs here do all it seeams to have is 2 holes one bigger than the other and they are very close to each other, ill get a pic of the bottom of the pj ASAP but you can take a look at the mount that is designed for it

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...Tab=1&NoMapp=0

please help me solve this as i really cant afford buying one of these expensive mounts. thanks

No big deal- do a 2-plate design.

Just buy the appropriate fasteners for each of the two different holes. They are most likely metric, though they could be english units. Measure the approximate diameters with a ruler, then buy several sizes around this approximate measure- return what you don't use or store them for another project.

Clamp a plate similar to the commercial mount against the projector (without all the extra slots- only the holes you need) with the screws/bolts you buy, then arrange a 4 hole bolt pattern for 4 fasteners to connect to an upper plate, which mounts a flange and pipe.

You could use MDF, plywood, or plexiglas, all covered in this thread.

The benefit of plexiglas is looks, easy to cut and snap by hand without special woodcutting or metal working tools, and easy to transfer the hole pattern from the projector to the plexiglas- just lay the plexi on the projector and mark the holes you see through the plexi.

With MDF or plywood, you could countersink or counterbore the holes for the bolts connecting the upper and lower plates together, allowing clearance for the bolt heads if this is an issue, to keep the plate flush against the projector.
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post #205 of 328 Old 03-06-2006, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post

IMHO the only reason to use a secondary plate securly mounted to the PJ is is your mounting bosses do not bottom out.

Bobby

Nyloc nuts shown in my photos earlier in the thread can be positioned to prevent bottoming out in the projector bosses, which I mention in my earlier AE700 mount posts.

Bottoming out and continuing to torque the fasteners in the projector boss could make the molded in metal insert break free.
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post #206 of 328 Old 03-19-2006, 09:46 AM
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Okay, first off, thank you to everyone who has posted in this thread - I combined several different ideas to make my own mount, and I couldn't be happier with it.

I used 2" PVC pipe as the riser, and 2" solvent weld shower drains as my "flanges" for mounting to the ceiling and to the projector "plate". The drains I used were $5 each at Lowe's and are similar to the ones found here:

http://www.oatey.com/shower_drains/102.html

I drilled holes through the flange around the drain and after measuring everything out and checking my positioning, simply screwed one end to the ceiling, and the other to an 8" square peice of fiberboard, which had holes drilled for the 4805's three mount points. I screwed the bolts in until they LIGHTLY bottomed out and then adjusted my wingnuts. Total time involved, about 1 hour. Total cost was well under $20.

Thanks again to Monkeyman and everyone else!
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post #207 of 328 Old 03-19-2006, 09:47 AM
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one more image.
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post #208 of 328 Old 03-19-2006, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoiswes View Post

one more image.

Nice and clean, looks great!
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post #209 of 328 Old 03-19-2006, 04:16 PM
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monkey man-- has anyone come up with a telescoping mount-- I need something that I can pull down whe watching my panny 900 and then push back up to ceiling when finished-- any ideas out there??? thx!
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post #210 of 328 Old 03-19-2006, 04:24 PM
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you could try one of those legs they use for traillers, they have a crank that you have to turn to make the leg go up and down, they are made to lift thousands of pounds with very litle crank force, therefore you could probably wire it up to some gehto motor contraption and hook that up to an x10 control module so you have control of it wirelessly. if you have a hard time finind an electric motor strong enough, i was thnking of using a chain drive system, just grab a cog off a bike +chain and you can pretty much put any motor on there. if you can hide some of that stuff id say you will have a VERYYYYY sweet looking mount, and thats quite the diy project to flaunt about, "motorized telescoping mount" and wireless at that. hummm i like the sound of that. you might have a hard time finding a trailer leg with more than ~20" of tracel though, not sure, never looked much into it.
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