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Inexpensive projector that uses component cables

7K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  BuGsArEtAsTy 
#1 ·
I have a very good setup from about 15 years ago. My projector broke a very long time ago, and I have a home theater minus the projector. My parents are the only ones living there now and they figured that it may be worth it if they can find a decent cheap projector that will still plug into the component cables from the ceiling. Can anyone recommend a decent projector that will still connect?

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
You can't just throw up any projector at random onto an old mount and expect it to work with the existing screen size because different models have different throw ranges and can only fill certain size screens from a specific distance range. If you replaced the old projector with a new one that has a different throw range it may not be able to completely fill the screen or it might only be able to produce a larger image that would spill off the screen.

If you can identify the old projector's brand and model number that would help. Throw distance is measured from the front of the projector's lens to the screen, so if you measured that it would also be helpful. And of course it's also important to know the screen size (diagonal in inches) and aspect ratio (16:9, 4:3, etc.).

Using component cables will not produce as good an image as HDMI, so I'm guessing they would probably be content with a less expensive 720p projector as opposed to 1080p as used with Blu-ray disks. And speaking of less expensive, what price range are you looking at?
 
#12 ·
Using component cables will not produce as good an image as HDMI, so I'm guessing they would probably be content with a less expensive 720p projector as opposed to 1080p as used with Blu-ray disks. And speaking of less expensive, what price range are you looking at?
I can't tell a difference from my cable box at 1080/60i on my HT-8000. Looks identical, even up close.
 
#3 ·
Dealing with the component cable situation as a separate issue, there may be some obscure projector models that still have component connections. But it would greatly limit your selection.

Fortunately in the modern world of cheap electronics there are options. A quick search shows that small component to HDMI converters are readily available pretty cheap -- like $25 or less from Amazon. You can just plug the component cables into the converter box up by the projector and run a short HDMI cable from the converter box to the projector as all modern projectors have HDMI inputs.
 
#5 ·
Still need the throw distance.

The SP7200...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/InFocus-SP_7200.htm

Could throw a 92" diagonal (small by today's standards) from 9'11" to 13'10".
http://www.projectorcentral.com/InFocus-SP_7200-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Let's say it was midway - about 12' lens to screen.

These projectors are all 1080p models which can hit that screen size, from that distance:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/pro...=0&pjh=0&td=12&is=92&i=d&oop=1&sort=pop&sz=15

I haven't gone through the spec sheets to see if they all support component. Some definitely advertise that they do, like the BenQ TH670.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-TH670.htm

They do this by using the VGA port, and assigning it to 'component video' instead of 'VGA video'. Then you need a cheap cable adapter to connect the component cables to the projector.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com...784911&sr=8-3&keywords=vga+to+component+cable

That cable is only 10 bucks and will deliver a very clean component video image.

At some point they will have to use HDMI. They can do this over a cat-5e cable if that was run to the projector, or they will need to run a new cable. It's important to understand that fewer and fewer devices support component video. Roku, AppleTV, Blu-ray Disc, etc. only have HDMI connectivity. No more component HD video.

So, I would look at the cabling in place and ask some questions, but even 15 years ago DVI or HDMI should have been run to that projector location. Today it is almost mandatory.
 
#6 ·
OK, the 7200 is a DLP model so if no one had problems with seeing the DLP rainbow effect on that old model they shouldn't have a problem with newer DLP models as the newer models typically have faster color wheels to reduce rainbows.

Buying used can be a crap shoot. Sometimes you get great bargains and sometimes you get junk. It all depends on how much you trust the seller and what safeguards you have on getting your money back if the unit does not perform as claimed by the seller. But if you're open to used then you should also consider factory refurbished models, which come with a factory warranty.

According to the projection calculator at ProjectorCentral.com the 7200's lens needs to be between 9' 11" and 13' 10" from the screen to produce a 92" image so if you keep the same mounting point you would need a model that produces a 92" image from within that same range. The most frequently recommended DLP model for less than $1,000 is the BenQ HT2050. However, BenQ models tend to have shorter throw ranges, and the furthest it can throw a 92" image is from 10', so it most likely would not work for you.

The next most frequently recommended DLP brand is Optoma, and many of their models have longer throws than the BenQ models. For example, the HD37 is probably the best model from Optoma in the sub-$1,000 cost range that will also meet your throw requirements.

Looking at LCD (Epson), the sub-$1,000 models (2040, etc.), like the BenQ models, have too short a throw to work in your setup. But any of the higher cost Epson 3000 series models are capable of throwing a 92" image from the same throw range as the 7200. Occasionally some of the 3000 series models can be found on closeout sale or as factory refurbished for $1,000 or less.

Hopefully others will chime in with options I've missed. :)
 
#7 ·
Great! Thanks for your help. They're really mainly looking for one to play cartoons when their grand kids are playing down there, so it doesn't really need to fit the screen exactly or look all that great. Just the most inexpensive for some light use. I will look into all of these.

Thanks,
Brad
 
#8 ·
Brad, if it's just for kids watching cartoons and not adults watching Blu-ray movies that changes the equation and there are likely good, lower cost options than the ones I mentioned. There should be no need to settle for a model that either won't properly fill the screen or spills off the edges of the screen. All that's needed to avoid that is the exact distance from lens to screen if you can just take a quick measurement. Typically the front of the lens is 4"-6" closer to the screen than the center of the mounting point.
 
#9 ·
Brad - It should be noted that while these models are 'entry level', they still are really good looking projectors. Under $1,000 and you really get some excellent quality for your money.

These are all 1080p projectors, they have good contrast, etc. They aren't the 'perfect' home theater projector, but for high definition movies, 3D, and gaming, most do a really spectacular job. Really doing much better than that 7200 from years ago.

Just take the measurements, and then let us know. Budget is easy to keep under $1,000 and quality will be very good.

But, it doesn't change reality: Component video is going away in favor of HDMI, and you really will need to address that at some point, even for cartoons.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Heh, I just finally took down my component cable today. But I still have a few component devices which I don't really use, but wanted compatibility with just in case. So I took a different approach, and bought a receiver that supports component to HDMI conversion.

That frees up your projector decision greatly.

Mind you in my case I needed a new receiver as mine was ancient. Obviously, if you have a recent receiver, this route might seem a bit spendy.

As for installing the HDMI cable in your case, you don't necessarily have to fish. You could run in a surface mounted conduit, which would cost you less than $50. Personally, I think this is the best way to do things, since any new device you buy will also be HDMI.
 
#13 ·
Most people wouldn't notice a difference between properly performing HDMI (digital) and component (analog) on 1080i. However, HDMI can reliably deliver 1080p while component cannot. While component cables have the bandwidth for 1080p signals most newer devices will only accept 1080p from digital cables due to copy protection issues.
 
#15 ·
My Viewsonic PJD 5555w has HDMI, 2 VGA, Composite, S-video inputs and VGA output. I run BD thru HDMI, one of the VGA connectors has a Component to VGA cable going to it the other has a VGA for my computer. I have a Composite and s-video also run for vintage equipment feed when the need arises.

It will do a 92” 16:9 image from 10’6” with a drop height where the center of the lens is in line with the top of the image with zero keystone correction. I see no problem though using keystone correction as everything I send to it gets scaled anyway and my experience is I can’t notice a difference when using some keystone. It has a little zoom adjustment so throw distance would have to be between 10’ and 11’

It can be bought new with 3 year coverage on the projector and one on the lamp for a little over $400 and goes on sale from time to time for around $350.

I have used mine for all my TV and movie watching for over a year now with no problems from all those different sources.
 
#16 ·
I replaced my infocus 7205 with a Mitsubishi 7900 18mos ago- took the 7205 down, connected the 7900, plugged in my component cables, and turned it on- perfect fit... maybe hdmi is a better picture, but to my eyes component is pretty damn good... why have a possible hiccup with hdmi when component works so well...
 
#17 ·
The problems are different between HDMI and component. With my previous projector which supported component, I sometimes got ghosting problems. Ghosting problems are an impossibility with HDMI. HDMI gets other problems like compatibility issues with certain equipment or else sparkles or blackouts with crappy cables.
 
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