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post #1 of 17 Old 02-08-2017, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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another projector selection assistance question please

Firstly. I have always been an audio guy and I have some basic knowledge of tv's but my projector knowledge is about zero.

I am putting together a projector/music room in my basement and I am trying to decide how much to spend on a projector.
My screen will be 120" and I will be seated about 14-16' back from the screen. My projector will be a few feet behind this

I am trying to decide between buying a JVC DLA-RS46 from a local CL sale (1500). that has been used fairly lightly. vs buying something cheaper like the Optoma HD142x or Benq 2050 something under the 1k mark.

I understand that 4k projectors are out of my reach right now and so I have 2 thought streams.
1. Buy a 1080p that is better quality and use it for the next 5 years until 4k becomes more main stream and affordable
2. Buy something less than 1k and use it for 2 years and then upgrade to a 4k.

I guess there is no way of telling how long it will be before 4k prices come down to where quality 1080p projectors are right now. But the tug-o-war that is going on in my mind is will i regret spending more on a 1080p if in a year of 2 4k projectors come down towards the 2k price range.

The question is what do i get from something like a JVC that was about 3k new vs a sub 1k projector. I have no problem buying a used 1080p since I understand that this is a stop gap measure. (just how long of a gap :-))

The room is my basement and I can block out most of the light if needed. This will mainly be used for movies on a weekend as I have plenty of other places in my house to watch regular tv's
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post #2 of 17 Old 02-08-2017, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejck View Post
Firstly. I have always been an audio guy and I have some basic knowledge of tv's but my projector knowledge is about zero.

I am putting together a projector/music room in my basement and I am trying to decide how much to spend on a projector.
My screen will be 120" and I will be seated about 14-16' back from the screen. My projector will be a few feet behind this

I am trying to decide between buying a JVC DLA-RS46 from a local CL sale (1500). that has been used fairly lightly. vs buying something cheaper like the Optoma HD142x or Benq 2050 something under the 1k mark.

I understand that 4k projectors are out of my reach right now and so I have 2 thought streams.
1. Buy a 1080p that is better quality and use it for the next 5 years until 4k becomes more main stream and affordable
2. Buy something less than 1k and use it for 2 years and then upgrade to a 4k.

I guess there is no way of telling how long it will be before 4k prices come down to where quality 1080p projectors are right now. But the tug-o-war that is going on in my mind is will i regret spending more on a 1080p if in a year of 2 4k projectors come down towards the 2k price range.

The question is what do i get from something like a JVC that was about 3k new vs a sub 1k projector. I have no problem buying a used 1080p since I understand that this is a stop gap measure. (just how long of a gap :-))

The room is my basement and I can block out most of the light if needed. This will mainly be used for movies on a weekend as I have plenty of other places in my house to watch regular tv's

I wouldn't buy that JVC DLA-RS46 for $1500; you'd be able to buy a 4k projector for $2,799 in a few months. I'd buy a sub $800 1080p projector for now (HT2050, LG PF1500, etc.)

http://hometheaterreview.com/optoma-...dlp-projector/

Last edited by Marc Yu; 02-08-2017 at 07:45 AM.
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post #3 of 17 Old 02-08-2017, 07:58 AM
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IMO, if you can demo and see the RS46 it is in a completely different class than the others. You also have position requirements you are trying to reach for your screen size which may not be accommodated by the cheaper projectors, forcing you into a more expensive model.

The HT2050, by example, while an excellent entry level model, can only hit a 120" diagonal from 10' to 13'1" lens to screen, and it sounds like you want to be about 18' lens to screen (or so).

Be aware, that 18' lens to screen is outside the range of many entry level projectors.

Off the cuff, there are only 4 models which show up on the PC Database which can hit that size from that distance for under $1,000.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...sort=pop&sz=15

You just aren't going to do better than the RS46 for that type of money, the price is in line with the quality, and as long as it is working, it's a great choice IMO for a new model.

There is a lot of JVC talk in the over $3,000 forum which you should read through. It's not the best for gaming on, that's for sure. It handles 120" just fine, but it cries out for as dark of a space as you can possibly make the room. Walls, ceiling, and carpet as dark as possible with no lights on for best results.

I would probably move the mounting location up several feet.

You also may find your screen size 'small' for your viewing distance. Typically for 13'-14' eyes to screen a 130" to 150" screen would be common.

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post #4 of 17 Old 02-08-2017, 08:22 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks for the tips on this guess i need to rethink a few geometrical issues. Like I said I am a newb to this projector game. Always wanted one but never had the room for it.
i installed the outlet and hdmi wire about 16 feet from the front of the room so I can move the projector forward to about 14 feet. I always thought you want the projector as far back as possible but this is something i need to do more reading on I guess.

if i install a mount at 14 feet will I have to move it later on if i switch to a 4k projector?

I could also go with a bigger screen. I picked 120 cause I thought that was what i need for my seating arrangement. Is there any good reading for determining dimensional issues for a HT room?
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post #5 of 17 Old 02-08-2017, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by thejck View Post
thanks for the tips on this guess i need to rethink a few geometrical issues. Like I said I am a newb to this projector game. Always wanted one but never had the room for it.
i installed the outlet and hdmi wire about 16 feet from the front of the room so I can move the projector forward to about 14 feet. I always thought you want the projector as far back as possible but this is something i need to do more reading on I guess.

if i install a mount at 14 feet will I have to move it later on if i switch to a 4k projector?

I could also go with a bigger screen. I picked 120 cause I thought that was what i need for my seating arrangement. Is there any good reading for determining dimensional issues for a HT room?
The top display spec for my projector, the LG PF1500, is a 10 foot picture. I'm using it to show a 16 foot picture and it looks phenomenal (see attachment). Try it at the 16 foot mark and see if that works for you; you can always move it forward to 14 if need be. Yes, you'll have to move that 4k projector waaay back further once you buy it, but that'll be a couple of years down the road (see attachment for RS400 example).
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post #6 of 17 Old 02-08-2017, 07:22 PM
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The distance from the projector to the screen depends on screen size, lens zoom and lens offset. If you want the projector further back and maintain the same 120 inch screen size you need a greater zoom lens. The resolution has nothing to do with projected distance.

Some projectors have built in offset which you must take into account for as well or else you will have a trapezoid shaped image. This is where a model with lens shift helps out.

The closer the projector is to the screen the brighter the image will be, so if the projector is low on lumen output you need to consider this.

Projector Central has a great calculator for helping you pick the right projector for your room. Just pick a few projectors you are interested in and plug in some numbers and see if it will work for your room.

I've used a painted length of unistrut bolted to the ceiling to allow me to move my projector mount towards and away from the screen. This way you can find the sweet spot for your projector.


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post #7 of 17 Old 02-08-2017, 08:13 PM
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For pure move watching in a fully dedicated theater with full ambient light control and dark non reflective surfaces/furnishings the JVC is a very good choice. Cons for the JVC are very expensive lamps with relatively short life span, poor 3D and high gaming lag. $1500 is at the high end for used RS46's but reasonable. With its power lens memory a 2:35 screen is a must. If most of the above criteria are met and you can afford to loose $1500 if the JVC goes belly up (unless they are offering a warranty) the JVC all the way. On the other hand a BenQ 2050 is always my first recommendation for newbies to front projection to get your feet wet and discover the ins and outs that go with it. If it doesn't work out the resale value is very good and you would only loose a few $100 on your investment.

"Smart enough to know better, to old to care" ------ Dedicated Home Theater, Mitsubishi HC7900DW Projector, 110" 16:9 Jamestown screen with variable power masking for CIW 2.50:1 to 16:9, Marantz 7009 with 7.1.4 Atmos with Ohm mains,3 DIY Subs (2 15" (1 ported, 1 sealed and a 12" 4th order bandpass), 1 DIY butt kicker, Custom Built HTPC, 10TB DroboFS NAS
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post #8 of 17 Old 02-10-2017, 06:40 AM - Thread Starter
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I dont mind spending the extra for the JVC. Its just a matter of how many years will it still be a viable option before I get the urge to switch to 4k either because the content is more readily available and because projector prices come down. I wish i had a crystal ball.

I am still about 2 months away from completion. I have the wiring done but i need to do some drywall work, paint and carpet. In the meantime. Is it Ok to proceed with buildng my screen if I have not selected a projector? I was hoping that the screen would be a permanent investment and would not need upgrading down the line.
As far as screens are concerned. I saw there is a ebay store selling a 4 ply material that is comparable to the Studiotek. Is there any recommendations or knowing what to look for in screen material? I dont want to go crazy price over here either. But I am not sure what to spend.
I plan on building the frame for the screen and mounting it on a door rail so I can move it left to right to account for a door that is present along the front wall. Any thougths?
So 130" is appropriate for 14' seating distance?
Now I guess I have to decide on format. I thought 16:9 was the way to go. Is there a preferable format? Is 2:35:1 better? This is for mainly movie watching. I thought it was an even split between the 2 formats. Height of the room is not a problem I have 9'.

I am not sure I quite understand the correlation between power lens memory and a 2:35 screen
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post #9 of 17 Old 02-10-2017, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejck View Post
I dont mind spending the extra for the JVC. Its just a matter of how many years will it still be a viable option before I get the urge to switch to 4k either because the content is more readily available and because projector prices come down. I wish i had a crystal ball.

I am still about 2 months away from completion. I have the wiring done but i need to do some drywall work, paint and carpet. In the meantime. Is it Ok to proceed with buildng my screen if I have not selected a projector? I was hoping that the screen would be a permanent investment and would not need upgrading down the line.
As far as screens are concerned. I saw there is a ebay store selling a 4 ply material that is comparable to the Studiotek. Is there any recommendations or knowing what to look for in screen material? I dont want to go crazy price over here either. But I am not sure what to spend.
I plan on building the frame for the screen and mounting it on a door rail so I can move it left to right to account for a door that is present along the front wall. Any thougths?
So 130" is appropriate for 14' seating distance?
Now I guess I have to decide on format. I thought 16:9 was the way to go. Is there a preferable format? Is 2:35:1 better? This is for mainly movie watching. I thought it was an even split between the 2 formats. Height of the room is not a problem I have 9'.

I am not sure I quite understand the correlation between power lens memory and a 2:35 screen
I wouldn't build the screen at all; I would just use the wall - that way you won't even have to decide between 16:9 and 2.35:1 as the wall is borderless and fit any aspect ratio.
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-10-2017, 08:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I wouldn't build the screen at all; I would just use the wall - that way you won't even have to decide between 16:9 and 2.35:1 as the wall is borderless and fit any aspect ratio.
I cant there is a door in the way :-( hence i have to make something that moves back and forth.
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post #11 of 17 Old 06-04-2017, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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So I purchased the used JVC rs46 and it was working fine for a month. I noticed that there was a slight flicker in the brightness so after searching I thought it was the issue with the bulb filament that needed to be run on high for a while to attempt to correct. After running this for about 30 minutes I started to see the image jumping. no longer just a brightness issue but the image itself jumps up and down.

There was one time that i hit the reset on the picture mode and it went away for a few minutes then came back. Reducing it back to eco mode didnt seem to do any good.

It seems this was only happening when there was a source playing though it. I use a HTPC and I tried a laptop with the same issue. If I have the grid patterns displayed its fine.

Any suggestions please? the only issue I have been able to find is the bulb filament issue but this does not seem related.

i have posted this question in the 3k section too. kinda at a loss have not been able to find anything through a google search.
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post #12 of 17 Old 06-05-2017, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejck View Post
So I purchased the used JVC rs46 and it was working fine for a month. I noticed that there was a slight flicker in the brightness so after searching I thought it was the issue with the bulb filament that needed to be run on high for a while to attempt to correct. After running this for about 30 minutes I started to see the image jumping. no longer just a brightness issue but the image itself jumps up and down.

There was one time that i hit the reset on the picture mode and it went away for a few minutes then came back. Reducing it back to eco mode didnt seem to do any good.

It seems this was only happening when there was a source playing though it. I use a HTPC and I tried a laptop with the same issue. If I have the grid patterns displayed its fine.

Any suggestions please? the only issue I have been able to find is the bulb filament issue but this does not seem related.

i have posted this question in the 3k section too. kinda at a loss have not been able to find anything through a google search.
The lamps flicker:
The lamps used in these projectors have no filament. What you are perceiving as flicker is the electric arc that jumps between different points on the electrode/s. Setting the lamp on high causes this electrode to be burned in a single point, eliminating the jumps (and the flicker).

The "image jump" problem:
Are you seeing these jumps on your PC monitor?
Has your HTPC enough power?
If you are seen jumps that are not happening with still images, is maybe because the HTPC is not feeding the projector with the movie's native Frames-Per-Second (FPS). Sending a number not equal or not a precise multiple, will cause loss of frames with its consequent jumps. To avoid "jumps" a 24 fps movie must be send at 24 or 96 fps to the PJ (assuming that your PJ can reproduce these FPS).
Also, I recomend to feed the PJ with its native resolution, making the scaling in the HTPC.
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post #13 of 17 Old 06-05-2017, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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i am only seeing the image jumps on the projector display not the laptop screen or the monitor attached to my dedicated htpc.
this is happening on still images too. like the windows default screen.
imagine the windows start bar at the bottom of the screen jumping up and down at a very high speed . Including whatever window might be open on the screen.
I set my video card to 1080p and 60hz refresh. because thats what catylyst says it can handle.
do i set the video card to output at 1080p 24?
or is this set up in my video player. i use kodi
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post #14 of 17 Old 06-05-2017, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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here is a video of what is happening
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post #15 of 17 Old 06-06-2017, 09:40 AM
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Have you tried using a short HDMI cable directly from your source to the projector?

If a static image shows fine, then it's not a lamp or power issue, it's far more likely to be on the input side. The first thing you want to ensure is that the cables aren't introducing the issue.

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post #16 of 17 Old 06-06-2017, 09:50 AM
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I cant there is a door in the way :-( hence i have to make something that moves back and forth.
OMG, you have the same issue as me! I have a family room where the only projectable wall has a staircase entrance at the end which makes the image off center.

After being unsatisfied for several years, I finally got an Elite Screens AEON Edge Free 110" 16x9 screen that has a borderless frame and which can slide on the two wall mounting brackets so that I can move it partially over the stairway entrance when using the projector to get a centered image and then move it back when not using it. I apply some lube occasionally to the bracket and try to be gentle when sliding it as the wear and tear of moving it back and forth will probably take it's toll someday in the future if I'm not careful and gentle.

Here's a pic of my screen (not centered as PJ is off). I also fashioned some DIY masking panels with black foam board attached by magnets for 2.35:1 and 1.85:1 material which works well as I have a 5040UB which does motorized zoom/lens shift with memory.

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post #17 of 17 Old 06-06-2017, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Have you tried using a short HDMI cable directly from your source to the projector?

If a static image shows fine, then it's not a lamp or power issue, it's far more likely to be on the input side. The first thing you want to ensure is that the cables aren't introducing the issue.
yeah i tried various short cables.
a static image from the htpc or my laptops also have this issue.

with no input displayed (the default blue screen of the projector with the menu) it does not jump. It looks like its something to do with the way its processing the hdmi input image.
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