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post #1 of 49 Old 09-25-2017, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Need help picking a UST projector

Hey everyone.

This is my first time getting a projector and I think a UST (Ultra Short Throw) projector would be ideal for my situation. I live in an apartment with white walls and my landlord has denied my request to hang a projector from my ceiling, so I’ve been very interested in getting a UST projector. My initial budget was ~$2k (projector only), but due to my options listed below, I can be flexible +-$1500. Once I decide on a projector I will buy a 100” screen (BCP100 or AEON CLR). To get an idea of the quality I’m shooting for, I was originally going to get a 75” Sony 900E TV, but that went out the window once I moved in and realized my couch is further than my desired viewing distance from the TV.

The only UST projectors within my budget seems to be the ViewSonic PX800HD and the upcoming Epson EH-LS100. I’ve listed pros / cons (concerns) based on my research.

Concerning the PX800HD, I'm finding it extremely hard to find any information on it apart from a few AVS forum posts and one review, but from what I can tell, it's decent for lit environments. I would certainly take advantage of this, but my primary goal is to have a high quality experience watching movies / tv shows with all of the lights off.

A few concerns about the PX800HD:
  • Since this is a DLP projector, it is my understanding that I risk the chance of the notorious rainbow effect. I’ve never had a projector, but feel like this is something that would really annoy me. Can anyone with this projector comment on if they experience it? One person in the LS820 owners thread said they were experiencing really bad RBE, and the LS820 is a good bit more expensive than the PX800HD.
  • As with any UST projector, I would need to get a specialized screen ViewSonic BCP100 or Elite Screens AEON CLR 100" for optimal viewing experience. I'm worried that the PX800HD will not be bright enough to facilitate a high quality movie experience when combined with the low gain BCP100 screen (or AEON).
  • Since this is a pretty cheap projector (relatively speaking), I’m concerned the picture quality won’t be as good as I’d like.
LS100 Pros:
  • Isn't DLP so as far as I can tell, so it would not have a potential rainbow effect
  • Accepts 4k input. Although, Netflix is really the only 4k source I would have access to, so 4k doesn’t matter too much to me at the moment.
  • Probably a big jump in image quality and most certainly contrast.
  • Double the lumen output, so I would probably be safe to assume it would be bright enough for movie watching.
  • Epson is well known for their quality customer service and warranty support. Same might be true for ViewSonic, but I haven't heard much about them.
  • The contrast ratio (2,500,000:1) is insanely higher than any other projector I’ve seen. Even if this is a case of the epson inflating their numbers and the contrast ratio is really half what they claim, it’s still way better than any other projector in this price range I’ve seen.
  • It’s listed brightness is 4000 lumens, so it probably won’t have any problems getting bright even on the low gain screen.
Cons:
  • Good bit more expensive
  • No word on a release date other than "this Fall". One article I found said November, but who knows.
  • Even though it accepts 4k input, it only outputs 1080p (not even pixel shifting for “fake” 4k). This is the main negative holding me back from splurging on this projector. I don’t want to put $3000 into a 1080p projector and then miss out on 4k content when it becomes more mainstream the next few years.
As for the screens, I'm having a hard time telling if there's much of a difference between the two screens I posted above. The AEON would save me a few hundred dollars, but then again I don't want to cheap out on the screen. Anyone know if the price of the BCP100 is justified?

Thank you for reading my wall of text. Anyone have any thoughts on which projector I should get?

TL;DR
  • Environment: Apartment living room with white walls, and a window with blinds (which will most likely have blackout curtains later on). The living room is next to an open kitchen. The couch is about 11' from the opposing wall where the screen will go.
  • Primary use: Turning all of the lights off and watching movies / tv shows. I want as close to a home theater experience as I can get in an apartment with white walls. This is why I think a UST projector is best in my case. Occasional gaming / daytime tv.
  • Budget (projector only): I'd like to keep it around $2k, but I'm considering going higher for something really good (like the LS100).
  • Screen size: 100-inches. I can't go bigger than this in my current setup without my speakers being VERY far apart or them blocking my view of the screen. Any smaller would defeat the purpose of getting a projector IMO.
  • Time frame: The sooner the better. I really want to have something set up in the next 1-2 months, and absolutely before the end of the year. I’ve pretty much put any movie watching on hold until I get something better than my current tv.
  • Reason for upgrading: I just moved into my current apartment and my couch is now far enough (11'-12') from my current 50" tv that my optimal distance to screen size ratio is pretty bad. Also, while my current tv has served me well since my college days, I want to get something with much better picture quality (especially better black levels). Even if I get a 75” inch TV, my distance / screen size ratio would still not be that great.
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post #2 of 49 Old 09-25-2017, 07:15 PM
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The Viewsonic isn’t a very bright projector and in an environment with a decent amount of ambient light I suspect it wouldn’t do well. There’s a forum member here who has the setup you’re looking for and seems to be happy but your expectations of LED TV quality will fall short for sure. You can run it in brightest mode and compromise color accuracy and lamp life. The good thing is new lamps are only $59. Also input lag is only 16ms making it a great candidate for gaming. If you can control some of the ambient light I think the PX800HD would be a good choice.

The LS100 looks great on paper. No one has reviewed it but attendees of the IFA and CEDIA shows seem to agree it looked good in person under the bright tradeshow lighting.
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post #3 of 49 Old 09-25-2017, 07:39 PM
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Screen

I am facing the exact same dilemma as OP and wanted to know how important the UST specific screen was. Will I at least get the same quality image as a regular projector (say Epson 2150) without a screen?
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post #4 of 49 Old 09-25-2017, 07:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerodynamics View Post
The Viewsonic isn’t a very bright projector and in an environment with a decent amount of ambient light I suspect it wouldn’t do well. There’s a forum member here who has the setup you’re looking for and seems to be happy but your expectations of LED TV quality will fall short for sure. You can run it in brightest mode and compromise color accuracy and lamp life. The good thing is new lamps are only $59. Also input lag is only 16ms making it a great candidate for gaming. If you can control some of the ambient light I think the PX800HD would be a good choice.

The LS100 looks great on paper. No one has reviewed it but attendees of the IFA and CEDIA shows seem to agree it looked good in person under the bright tradeshow lighting.
Yeah I'm really counting on the BCP100 / AEON CLR screens to reject light bouncing off my light walls. If you're referring to Marcad80's post, then yeah his setup is basically what I'm looking for, minus the bias lighting. His pictures look good, but the picture did look a bit dim (although he said it's running in eco mode), so I was a bit worried about that.

My biggest fear is getting something and really regretting it, so if you think I'll really be sacrificing quality then it sounds like I'll just have to play the waiting game and see what kind of reviews the LS100 get. I just figured I'd post here to see if there are people other than Marcad80 who recommend the PX800HD, in which case I'd get it now and maybe upgrade in 1-2 years when a 4k UST is affordable.

Thank you for your input!
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post #5 of 49 Old 09-25-2017, 07:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZachGucces View Post
I am facing the exact same dilemma as OP and wanted to know how important the UST specific screen was. Will I at least get the same quality image as a regular projector (say Epson 2150) without a screen?
I was more asking what the difference between those two screens are and if it's worth paying more for the BCP100. I'm 100% set on getting a screen designed for a UST projector.

Based on my reasearch a white wall will be pretty terrible even for a UST, and a regular projector screen will be okay-ish.

See this post for a UST screen vs white wall.
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post #6 of 49 Old 09-25-2017, 08:08 PM
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Screen

I realize a dedicated screen like BCP120 works great in ambient light. But what about in a dedicated dark room. Is it essential then?
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post #7 of 49 Old 09-25-2017, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZachGucces View Post
I realize a dedicated screen like BCP120 works great in ambient light. But what about in a dedicated dark room. Is it essential then?
In a dedicated theater you want high gain
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post #8 of 49 Old 09-25-2017, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post
In a dedicated theater you want high gain
I was under the impression that even in a dark environment a low gain screen would be best for a UST projector since the projector is directly in front of the screen and will be bright which reduces the need for high gain. Also, wouldn't low gain result in better contrast?
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post #9 of 49 Old 09-25-2017, 09:43 PM
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Being close to a screen does not magically increase brightness. It's not a measurement of heat, but a measurement of light output, which is going to be over the full screen area. So, 1200 lumens from 15' is the same as 1200 lumens from 2 feet on a 120" diagonal screen.

I guess that placing a projector on the wall behind the couch, or putting it on a shelf behind the couch is out of the question? This really opens up a few more options, and you get some pretty solid products for not a lot of cash, most notably in the Epson 3100 or 3700 projectors.

UST and 'high quality' often don't go together. There are some serious issues with UST which are related to the optics required. You take a hit on quality that can't just magically be fixed, but has improved.

Pair that with a ALR screen and suddenly things get a fair bit worse due to potential hotspotting, sparkling, and image unformity issues.

Want acceptable quality in the day? Get the 3700 and some decent shades/drapes for the room and pair it with a grey screen. At night, you will only see improvements.

Not sure of any recommendation for a high gain screen since neither projector manufacturers nor screen manufacturers make such a recommendation.

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post #10 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 07:23 AM
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UST Philips Screeneo 3 HDP3550 November 2017
http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/...o-3-0-hdp3550/

Previous model hdp2510 review....
http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/...eeneo-hdp2510/

Epson TW5350(HC 2045 US), Himedia Q5Pro, FinePix REAL 3D W3, LG Otimus 3D Max
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post #11 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 07:50 AM
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And what about this one??
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSBRYZL..._t2_B01KJBPEGE

May be im going to buy it but i wil use it to the wall (grey) without screen
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post #12 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 08:54 AM
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It's well documented that UST projectors are much more difficult to properly set up and have more issues with brightness uniformity, image geometry, clear focus from edge to edge and shadows from the slightest screen irregularities than longer throw projectors, and that the issues increase with larger image sizes. Front projection professionals generally recommend choosing a UST projector over a longer throw model only for the convenience of mounting close to the screen. In every other area a longer throw model will produce superior performance. The only reason to choose a UST projector over a longer throw model is if one values convenience over image quality.
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post #13 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 05:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post
Being close to a screen does not magically increase brightness. It's not a measurement of heat, but a measurement of light output, which is going to be over the full screen area. So, 1200 lumens from 15' is the same as 1200 lumens from 2 feet on a 120" diagonal screen.
My bad. I confused myself from when I was researching regular projectors and was thinking about how the distance can sometimes require a certain zoom level which does change the brightness of the image. I realize this is not the case with a UST projector. However, a UST would still be better than a regular projector (with the same lumen output) with regards to brightness in my situation (white walls / ceiling which will bounce light back onto the screen) since the UST can be paired with something like the BCP100 which is designed to reject light from anywhere other than directly below it (where the projector is). Yeah, I know a regular projector can be used with an ALR screen as well, but from what I've read, the UST screens are much better at rejecting ambient light. Even though my primary use will involve all of the lights being off, the videos / pictures I've seen of picture degradation with a regular projector affected by ambient light (white wall reflection) look a lot worse than the BCP100 with room lights on. This is the the main reason I'm thinking a UST projector will better suit me than a regular projector, but I also made this post to poke any holes in my plan so far, so I realize I can be wrong about a lot of the things I've said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post
I guess that placing a projector on the wall behind the couch, or putting it on a shelf behind the couch is out of the question? This really opens up a few more options, and you get some pretty solid products for not a lot of cash, most notably in the Epson 3100 or 3700 projectors.
Originally, I had my eyes set on the Epson 4000 or 5040UB. However, once I requested permission to ceiling mount a projector in my apartment, my landlord said "...the projector cannot be mounted to the ceiling but it can be mounted into the walls. The studs in the wall are metal so they cannot be screwed into to mount the projector. You have our permission to mount the projector on the wall". So basically, he told me my only option is to mount it to drywall, which I don't think I'm comfortable doing since I don't trust drywall holding a $2k-$2.5k projector. Also, my couch is against the wall (see pictures at the bottom of this post) and cannot be moved, so there is no room for a shelf, and in the event the drywall fails and the projector falls, it will fall on me and most likely crack my skull .

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post
UST and 'high quality' often don't go together. There are some serious issues with UST which are related to the optics required. You take a hit on quality that can't just magically be fixed, but has improved

Pair that with a ALR screen and suddenly things get a fair bit worse due to potential hotspotting, sparkling, and image unformity issues.
I understand that if the screen isn't perfectly flat, the image will be very distorted (which the BCP100 will hopefully get around since it's a wall mounted and tensioned screen), but I haven't heard about hotspotting or sparkling being problem with UST projectors. Is this just a general consensus, or are there any reputable research / reviews outlining these problems (unique to UST projectors)? What differences in quality are there between a UST and regular projector (color, sharpness, etc)? Also, it seems to me like the idea of using a UST projector for home theater (vs classroom / business use / casual home use) has just surfaced within the last year or so. Do you there might have been some progress in UST optics to get around the problems you're talking about?

Also, here's some pictures of my apartment layout if it's helpful. I just moved in so that's why it's messy / ugly.
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post #14 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Trunksleo View Post
And what about this one??
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSBRYZL..._t2_B01KJBPEGE

May be im going to buy it but i wil use it to the wall (grey) without screen
Interesting, I didn't know they're coming out with 3.0 version. I disregarded the 2.0 version due to people saying it's pretty impossible to find replacement bulbs.
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post #15 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
It's well documented that UST projectors are much more difficult to properly set up and have more issues with brightness uniformity, image geometry, clear focus from edge to edge and shadows from the slightest screen irregularities than longer throw projectors, and that the issues increase with larger image sizes. Front projection professionals generally recommend choosing a UST projector over a longer throw model only for the convenience of mounting close to the screen. In every other area a longer throw model will produce superior performance. The only reason to choose a UST projector over a longer throw model is if one values convenience over image quality.
I know about the geometry problems, but that's why I would get a wall mounted / tensioned screen like the BCP100. My screen size is only 100" and other posters with UST projectors in these forums who have 120" screens haven't complained about distortion, so I think I'm safe.

I've seen a few comments about the other issues you mentioned with cheaper UST projectors (I think the LG PF1000U), but not with the PX800HD or anything more expensive. I realize that in no way means more expensive UST projectors can't / don't have these issues, but due to the lack of information on UST projectors in general I've sort of assumed these aren't things to worry about. Do you have any links to any reviews / people complaining about those issues with a more expensive UST?

I realize I'll be paying a premium over a regular projector for a UST projector, so I don't expect a $3k UST projector to match a $3k regular projector in image quality, but are you saying I should expect a more significant drop in quality just because I'm using a UST projector? Is there some sort of upper limit in quality a UST projector can't exceed that most regular projectors don't have a problem with?

I would love to get a regular projector like the 5040UB, but due to my apartment situation / restrictions (see my post above), I think a TV or UST projector are my only options. I'd really like to avoid a tv if possible since I would be ~11 ft away from the screen when the optimal viewing distance is 8.5' for a 75" tv, but if it that or bad image quality, then I'd pick the TV over a crappy 100" image.
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Interesting, I didn't know they're coming out with 3.0 version. I disregarded the 2.0 version due to people saying it's pretty impossible to find replacement bulbs.
Yeah but the lamp according with lg the life is 30k hours more than optoma or epson.
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post #17 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 08:06 PM
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Since you will be watching in the dark my suggestion would be to try the PX800HD and your choice of UST screen. Projector Central says it’s fairly sharp across the entire image and with a 100” screen it just might be bright enough for you. You should know fairly quick whether it will work for you. If it doesn’t live up to expectations, return it and get the LS100. If it does, you’ve got yourself a nice relatively inexpensive setup.
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post #18 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 08:10 PM
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@Kenwa , my previous comments were predicated on UST and longer throw projectors in roughly the same price range. If you're willing to pay a premium for a higher quality UST then it is more likely to perform at least as well as less expensive longer throw models. Adding a premium screen and limiting screen size to 100" will also enhance UST image quality. You are certainly doing all the right things to get optimum performance from a UST. I look forward to hearing how well it works for you.

Others who may be looking to do it on a tighter budget will not get nearly as good a result as they could from a longer throw projector at the same price point. Even a good short throw projector will produce better results than a UST with a similar price tag. A BenQ HT2150ST can throw a 100" image from a range of 5'-6' and is probably the best bang for the buck for those who can make it fit. It works very well from a coffee table for those who can't ceiling mount.
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post #19 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
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@Kenwa , my previous comments were predicated on UST and longer throw projectors in roughly the same price range. If you're willing to pay a premium for a higher quality UST then it is more likely to perform at least as well as less expensive longer throw models. Adding a premium screen and limiting screen size to 100" will also enhance UST image quality. You are certainly doing all the right things to get optimum performance from a UST. I look forward to hearing how well it works for you.

Others who may be looking to do it on a tighter budget will not get nearly as good a result as they could from a longer throw projector at the same price point. Even a good short throw projector will produce better results than a UST with a similar price tag. A BenQ HT2150ST can throw a 100" image from a range of 5'-6' and is probably the best bang for the buck for those who can make it fit. It works very well from a coffee table for those who can't ceiling mount.
Ah, okay, just wanted to be sure there wasn't some crazy image quality issues due to the nature of UST projectors or something. You really got me scared for moment there .

Yeah I momentarily considered a short throw, but I'm not a fan of wires going across the floor or it being close enough that the fan noise could be a problem. I'm not completely ruling that option out, though.
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post #20 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerodynamics View Post
Since you will be watching in the dark my suggestion would be to try the PX800HD and your choice of UST screen. Projector Central says it’s fairly sharp across the entire image and with a 100” screen it just might be bright enough for you. You should know fairly quick whether it will work for you. If it doesn’t live up to expectations, return it and get the LS100. If it does, you’ve got yourself a nice relatively inexpensive setup.
I thought about doing that, but it seems like any place I buy it from will charge a 15% restocking fee. Do you know of a good place I could buy it without a restocking fee?
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post #21 of 49 Old 09-26-2017, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trunksleo View Post
And what about this one??
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSBRYZL..._t2_B01KJBPEGE

May be im going to buy it but i wil use it to the wall (grey) without screen
I have it with a 92" screen (1.1) and am very happy with it so far. Definitely wouldn't recommend going beyond 100". The grey wall is probably OK, but the contrast will likely be much better with just about any screen.
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post #22 of 49 Old 09-27-2017, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenwa View Post
Originally, I had my eyes set on the Epson 4000 or 5040UB. However, once I requested permission to ceiling mount a projector in my apartment, my landlord said "...the projector cannot be mounted to the ceiling but it can be mounted into the walls. The studs in the wall are metal so they cannot be screwed into to mount the projector. You have our permission to mount the projector on the wall". So basically, he told me my only option is to mount it to drywall, which I don't think I'm comfortable doing since I don't trust drywall holding a $2k-$2.5k projector. Also, my couch is against the wall (see pictures at the bottom of this post) and cannot be moved, so there is no room for a shelf, and in the event the drywall fails and the projector falls, it will fall on me and most likely crack my skull .
Looking at the photos, I would put a 5040 on a shelf behind the couch in a second. I'm not sure if the landlord said you can't mount to the metal framework, but I work in the commercial world, and that's what we do all the time. It gets repaired like normal drywall is repaired, but the studs are the studs! They are the mounting points for anything heavy in the room. I mean, if you are in a larger apartment building, do you really think people that hang a shelf on the wall 'miss' the studs? They are likely hitting studs all the time. It's perfectly fine and not just fine, but proper to use the studs to hang shelving from.

Another option is to use a 'C' shaped shelf that goes under the couch, comes up the wall, and the projector can sit on that. You could actually build something really nice, or keep it simple. If you build it yourself, you could likely do something decent looking for under $200, including buying some tools which you would have for life. Might be a fun little project.

Just my thought on it though. Just to make you doubt yourself because I'm a d@ck like that.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenwa View Post
I understand that if the screen isn't perfectly flat, the image will be very distorted (which the BCP100 will hopefully get around since it's a wall mounted and tensioned screen), but I haven't heard about hotspotting or sparkling being problem with UST projectors. Is this just a general consensus, or are there any reputable research / reviews outlining these problems (unique to UST projectors)? What differences in quality are there between a UST and regular projector (color, sharpness, etc)? Also, it seems to me like the idea of using a UST projector for home theater (vs classroom / business use / casual home use) has just surfaced within the last year or so. Do you there might have been some progress in UST optics to get around the problems you're talking about?
A wall mounted screen is good for UST projectors. You shouldn't have issues with image quality and a decent UST projector.
Hotspotting and sparkling are introduced by ALR screens, not by the projector. It deals with the optical properties of the screen surface itself. Now, maybe there is something better than what I've seen out there, but I think the reviews are really skinny on ALR screens. People look at screens like the Black Diamond, and RAVE about it, while I see the screen and seen sparkles, hot-spots, and uneven uniformity and wonder what the heck they are talking about with their glowing reviews. That said, I love ALR screens for places like sports bars, or bright conference rooms. But, when people give a darn about image quality, I really struggle with what I've seen so far. (probably 5 or 6 different brands)

Really though, I might consider some good drapes for your space, a grey screen, and the 5040 and call it done awesome. It should look really good. You are fighting the wall and ceiling color, but you can add (hang) some wall treatments if you would like. You can also just try any projector (borrow one if you can!) and see how it looks during normal daytime use and after dark use before investing heavily into a pricey screen and UST projector.

Of course, with a projector at the back of the room, you will need to consider how you are getting a HDMI signal to it. It is one of the few times where I feel like wireless may be a good choice.

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post #23 of 49 Old 09-27-2017, 08:04 AM
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What is your viewing distance? 100" feels really small to me. You look like you are at least 12' eyes to screen. I would be shooting for a 120" diagonal or so. At least 110".
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Looking at the photos, I would put a 5040 on a shelf behind the couch in a second. I'm not sure if the landlord said you can't mount to the metal framework, but I work in the commercial world, and that's what we do all the time. It gets repaired like normal drywall is repaired, but the studs are the studs! They are the mounting points for anything heavy in the room. I mean, if you are in a larger apartment building, do you really think people that hang a shelf on the wall 'miss' the studs? They are likely hitting studs all the time. It's perfectly fine and not just fine, but proper to use the studs to hang shelving from.

Another option is to use a 'C' shaped shelf that goes under the couch, comes up the wall, and the projector can sit on that. You could actually build something really nice, or keep it simple. If you build it yourself, you could likely do something decent looking for under $200, including buying some tools which you would have for life. Might be a fun little project.

Just my thought on it though. Just to make you doubt yourself because I'm a d@ck like that.


A wall mounted screen is good for UST projectors. You shouldn't have issues with image quality and a decent UST projector.
Hotspotting and sparkling are introduced by ALR screens, not by the projector. It deals with the optical properties of the screen surface itself. Now, maybe there is something better than what I've seen out there, but I think the reviews are really skinny on ALR screens. People look at screens like the Black Diamond, and RAVE about it, while I see the screen and seen sparkles, hot-spots, and uneven uniformity and wonder what the heck they are talking about with their glowing reviews. That said, I love ALR screens for places like sports bars, or bright conference rooms. But, when people give a darn about image quality, I really struggle with what I've seen so far. (probably 5 or 6 different brands)

Really though, I might consider some good drapes for your space, a grey screen, and the 5040 and call it done awesome. It should look really good. You are fighting the wall and ceiling color, but you can add (hang) some wall treatments if you would like. You can also just try any projector (borrow one if you can!) and see how it looks during normal daytime use and after dark use before investing heavily into a pricey screen and UST projector.

Of course, with a projector at the back of the room, you will need to consider how you are getting a HDMI signal to it. It is one of the few times where I feel like wireless may be a good choice.
There's only about 1-2 inches of space behind the couch, so I'd have to move it out a bit to fit a floor-standing shelf behind it. I don't think my girlfriend would be too happy about that. Good idea, though.

I'm not very experienced in terms of DIY stuff / drilling into studs / walls (hanging blinds and curtain rods is the most complex thing I've done thus far...), but aren't metal studs not as good at supporting horizontal forces (ex. a cantilever arm)? From what I've read, the solution to mounting a projector on metal studs is to utilize some plywood which spans several studs and mounting the projector on that. I'd rather avoid doing something like that since it would look pretty ugly. Also, even if I get a regular projector and put it on the well behind the couch, wouldn't fan noise be an issue since it'd be so close to me?


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Wanted to add...

What is your viewing distance? 100" feels really small to me. You look like you are at least 12' eyes to screen. I would be shooting for a 120" diagonal or so. At least 110".
Yes, my viewing distance is 12' eyes to screen. The distance between the two speakers are almost exactly 88" which is how wide a 100" 16:9 screen would be. If I go any bigger then I would need to get rid of my desk / bookshelf which definitely isn't happening, so I'm pretty set on 100". My current tv is 50", so I think I'll be happy and have something to look forward to once I get "used" to the 100" screen.

Also, I forgot to ask this in my original post, but if I do get a projector like the Epson EH-LS100 which outputs an aspect ration of 16:10, and project an image onto a 16:9 screen... will there be projected light going onto the wall from the black bars (even if the content is 16:9)? Is there any way for the projector to change it's aspect ratio?
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post #25 of 49 Old 09-28-2017, 01:33 PM
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There's only about 1-2 inches of space behind the couch, so I'd have to move it out a bit to fit a floor-standing shelf behind it. I don't think my girlfriend would be too happy about that. Good idea, though.
I was actually thinking about a C-shaped shelf like this, so you would be able to keep the couch tight to the wall. Taller than this picture, but same concept:


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I'm not very experienced in terms of DIY stuff / drilling into studs / walls (hanging blinds and curtain rods is the most complex thing I've done thus far...), but aren't metal studs not as good at supporting horizontal forces (ex. a cantilever arm)? From what I've read, the solution to mounting a projector on metal studs is to utilize some plywood which spans several studs and mounting the projector on that. I'd rather avoid doing something like that since it would look pretty ugly. Also, even if I get a regular projector and put it on the well behind the couch, wouldn't fan noise be an issue since it'd be so close to me?
I work in the commercial industry, and every building you see with shelves on the walls and TVs on the walls is using those metal studs to hang them. Only the 150 pound displays are using backing, the rest are just using standard wall anchors (toggle bolts) to hold the displays to the walls. Certainly a nice shelf across two studs will have zero issues whatsoever. If the shelf supported a couple hundred pounds, it likely wouldn't be a real issue.

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Yes, my viewing distance is 12' eyes to screen. The distance between the two speakers are almost exactly 88" which is how wide a 100" 16:9 screen would be. If I go any bigger then I would need to get rid of my desk / bookshelf which definitely isn't happening, so I'm pretty set on 100". My current tv is 50", so I think I'll be happy and have something to look forward to once I get "used" to the 100" screen.
It will quickly actually seem a bit small. Typical viewing is about 10" per foot of viewing distance. I would look at the speakers and your setup to see if there's a way to go a bit larger. You really will appreciate the greater feeling of immersion from 120" screen, but that's entirely up to you.

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Also, I forgot to ask this in my original post, but if I do get a projector like the Epson EH-LS100 which outputs an aspect ration of 16:10, and project an image onto a 16:9 screen... will there be projected light going onto the wall from the black bars (even if the content is 16:9)? Is there any way for the projector to change it's aspect ratio?
I would expect that there is. I feel pretty strongly that this projector will be a 'compromise' projector, and will not look as good as people are hoping. Bright, yes! But, designed for brighter rooms and ALR screens to look decent, not at all like what better projectors look like in a good room. I'm pretty concerned about the quality which it will deliver. But, will wait for reviews.

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post #26 of 49 Old 09-28-2017, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I was actually thinking about a C-shaped shelf like this, so you would be able to keep the couch tight to the wall. Taller than this picture, but same concept:



I work in the commercial industry, and every building you see with shelves on the walls and TVs on the walls is using those metal studs to hang them. Only the 150 pound displays are using backing, the rest are just using standard wall anchors (toggle bolts) to hold the displays to the walls. Certainly a nice shelf across two studs will have zero issues whatsoever. If the shelf supported a couple hundred pounds, it likely wouldn't be a real issue.
Okay, you've convinced me to re-visit the possibility of getting a regular projector. I'm going to talk to my building's maintenance guy and see why he said no to a ceiling mount and clarification on using metal studs. I've read that the safe-ness of wall-mounting a projector / TV heavily relies on the thickness of the stud and whether it's load-bearing or not so I'm really hoping I'm dealing with some strong studs to gibe me some peace of mind. I think if I do get a regular projector, I'll try to span two studs with a mount like this.

I haven't been able to find a tall C shaped shelf like you're talking about, but I'm not sure that would be ideal anyway.

If I do get a regular projector, then wouldn't I still need to get an ALR screen to prevent the image from being washed out by reflections off my white wall / ceiling, which is the type of screen you said had all of those problems you described in an earlier post (hotspotting, sparkling, etc)? Would a grey screen be good enough for ambient light caused by white wall reflections in which case I wouldn't need an ALR screen?

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It will quickly actually seem a bit small. Typical viewing is about 10" per foot of viewing distance. I would look at the speakers and your setup to see if there's a way to go a bit larger. You really will appreciate the greater feeling of immersion from 120" screen, but that's entirely up to you.


I would expect that there is. I feel pretty strongly that this projector will be a 'compromise' projector, and will not look as good as people are hoping. Bright, yes! But, designed for brighter rooms and ALR screens to look decent, not at all like what better projectors look like in a good room. I'm pretty concerned about the quality which it will deliver. But, will wait for reviews.
I've moved my bookshelf as far to the right as I can and I think I just barely have enough room for the length of a 120" screen, so thank you for making me re-consider that!
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post #27 of 49 Old 09-28-2017, 09:48 PM
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I do agree 12’ from a 100” screen is pretty far back. I previously had a 100” screen sitting 9’ away and it was perfect. Could’ve gone even bigger had it not been for the room layout. Moving your sofa closer to the screen would make it much more immersive. I know you said that’s a no-no but if there’s anyway you can swing it, the space gained behind opens the door to a lot more options.
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post #28 of 49 Old 09-29-2017, 08:48 AM
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So bisides of the screen. Which is best?? Optoma 5500+, LG PF1000UW or the ViewSonic PX800HD?? All are around of 1250u$s.
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post #29 of 49 Old 09-29-2017, 09:33 AM
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So bisides of the screen. Which is best?? Optoma 5500+, LG PF1000UW or the ViewSonic PX800HD?? All are around of 1250u$s.
No projector is best at everything. They all have different balances of pros and cons. For example some people put a high priority on LED projectors like the PF1000UW so they never have to worry about replacing a lamp. Others would prefer one of the standard lamp-based models because they can throw a brighter image. What's best is to do a search for reviews of each model, read all the reviews to learn the stronger and weaker points of each and pick the one that has the best balance of pros and cons to suit your personal preferences, not someone else's.
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post #30 of 49 Old 09-29-2017, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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So bisides of the screen. Which is best?? Optoma 5500+, LG PF1000UW or the ViewSonic PX800HD?? All are around of 1250u$s.
If I had to pick one of those, I definitely would not pick the LG since it's not very bright (1000 Lumens). I would most likely go with the PX800HD since it has a much better contrast than the Optoma 5500+ (100,000:1 vs 25,000:1) and is twice as bright as the LG (2000 Lumens vs 1000 Lumens). However, the Optoma might be better depending on the screen type and how much light you'll have in the since it's brighter than the other two (3500 Lumens).
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