Restoring colors and brightness on X1 (all X1 owners read) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 208 Old 03-17-2004, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello,

I've decided to repost the result from my 'dead colors on X1' thread under a new subject heading in order to give more visibility to a potential issue with colors and brightness on your X1 that can be otherwise avoided with a simple maintenance procedure.

I felt that my X1 was going downhill and that a service call to InFocus was inevitable because of the poor color saturation and the awful brightness/contrast I was getting.

After many tries with different paints my final attempt with Home Depot Ultra Pure White revealed that the X1 was putting out poor and uncalibratable colors, brightness and contrast.

The procedure is actually very simple. You'll need a bunch of soft q-tips and a small dap of water to wet the tip.

1. Use the same procedure for removing and cleaning the bulb chassis screen provided by InFocus to remove the bulb chassis (small flat head screwdriver, pop open the door, disconnect the white power cable and unscrew two screws on top left and bottom right holding the bulb chassis in.)

2. When you remove the bulb chassis, you will see a dust cave in the void that was occupied by the bulb chassis. I recommend that you do not attempt to brush or wipe the dust away while looking down in it. Instead, I recommend that you wipe it with the opening upside down (unit on it's side). Yes you might get some dust in your face but it sure beats having dust on your optics (that will really suck).

3. After you finish the bulb screen maintenance (vacuum that fine lung clogging dust from the screen) take a look at your colorwheel with a nice bright light shining overhead. If you dont see anything and its completely dark, move your big head out of the way.

Now once you see the colorwheel, do you see this?



If your colorwheel looks hazy, dusty, or does not show the colors of red-green-blue-clear or your color wheel looks nothing like the picture - you got a problem. Basically, your colorwheel surface must look like the surface of a mirror, like the one in the picture above, if you were to have the best colors and contrast.

** UPDATE
Through a thread started by Guy Kuo in the >$3500 forum, we are starting to find that the contamination may be a result of plastics gassing or giving off fumes that are ending up on the colorwheel. The gassing is most likely coming from the plastic housing of the bulb itself.

4. If yours doesn't, I assume thats the reason why you read on, go grab your wife/gf/SG's box of q-tips and start cleaning.

- Wet the q-tip so that it is DAMP. Not dripping with water. Water + PJ electronics = BAD

- With a very light stroke, rub the colorwheel glass with your q-tip. We're talking about very light stroke here..not your average-paint-removing-deoxidizing-rubbing compound method. Too much force will gaurantee you a service call to InFocus.

The q-tip will not stand this kind of abuse very long and will become frizzy. Replace it and get another. Wife's got plenty of them. You dont want that frizzy stuff in the PJ. Frizzy stuff caught in colorwheel = bad

Turn the wheel as you wipe off the dust. The wheel turns freely. Dont worry, that color change isn't the color coming off, its the dust. Youre unveiling the true colors of the wheel and restoring your faith in the X1.

You'll notice that with the wet q-tip alone, its not a very nice job. In fact, it looks like a mess you just made. Once you have loosen the dirt with the wet q-tip and removed the dirt, you'll need to go over it again with a dry q-tip to buff it to a shine. See picture again. Shine.

After youre done, take a look at the clear glass on the bulb chassis in which the light shines through, that should be clean too.

Slide the bulb chassis back into the PJ. Make sure the chassis is sitting down properly and that the screws are aligned. You might need to back out the screws a little more in order for the chassis to sit in correctly.

Reconnect the white power cable and carefully snap the door back in place.

Power up, recalibrate, and observe the colors. You may hear some colorwheel noise after your initial powerup but it should go away after 5 min.

Please keep in mind that this procedure is omitted from the owner's manual from InFocus. I feel that it should be but the delicate nature of the colorwheel may have reserved this maintenance for service centers. Do it at your own risk!


Thanks to Dennis Gardner for his feedback and fix for my issue.
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post #2 of 208 Old 03-17-2004, 11:43 PM
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Nice Post Speedy,

If you haven't done this at 1000 hours or more I challenge each of you to look closely at the wheel. They buildup worse than you could imagine!

I found this to be my problem at about 1200 hours of abuse (too lazy to take it down from the ceiling). This really made huge differences in color, brightness and contrast. I was able to return my settings back 6-8 settings in each category with the cleaning.

I wonder how many X1 owners just think their bulbs are getting dim, when really it is a haze on the color wheel?

I plan on doing this at 250 hour intervals from now on with the normal dust screen cleaning.

Thanks again @ 1440 hrs. & still happy with my X1,

Dennis
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post #3 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 04:33 AM
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I am nervous about doing this to my X1, but at the same time curious to try it. Anyone with any reasons NOT to do this?

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post #4 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 06:34 AM
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5 year warranty and overnight repairs should calm your worries.

Unless you live in a dust free environment, you eventually won't have a choice.
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post #5 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 08:57 AM
 
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Thanks for the post Speedy! Excellent job.

BTW, I'm at 600+ hours and getting ready to do the filter cleaning (again) and look at my colorwheel.

This might be a good thread to bump up every now and then for X1er's.
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post #6 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 11:08 AM - Thread Starter
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I believe this may apply to all DLP owners.
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post #7 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 11:10 AM
 
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Quote:


Originally posted by SpeedyHTPC
I believe this may apply to all DLP owners.

You're right; the thread title reflecting that fact might be a good idea.
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post #8 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


Originally posted by bholio
1) I'm not sure what I am seeing in the picture.

2) Is the clear section of the color wheel the most visible in your picture? That is, you clean the section which is visible in the lower-roud-cutout with the black square behind it? Then spin the wheel a little to expose the next section?

3) Can anyone confirm that a brand new color wheel is nice and clear? That cleaning isn't removing an important coating of some sort? I know it sounds silly, but I'm paranoid.


1) Youre seeing the colorwheel in a position in which the clear segment is over the DMD light opening. That is completely clear and also known as the "white segment".

2) Yes the clear segment is currently over the black square. Yes and yes.

3) The picture above is from technut's FAQ. That is a picture of a new (or very little used) colorwheel as far as I'm concerned. It has no dust on the center gold hub. You may start seeing the dust buildup after 250 interval hours of operation. And no, you are not removing any special coating if there is one. As I understand it the glass has the colors "baked" into it at a very high temperature. Technut's faq has this info. Using water to dust it off will not harm anything.
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post #9 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 12:52 PM
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We have hard water in my area, and the water made the picture more hazy. I even buffed after the water. I ended up using alcohol to clean the color wheel. Made everything squeaky clean.

If I agree with you then we will both be wrong
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post #10 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Yup..Hard water = bad. I used bottled water.
What % alcohol did you use?
Bump!
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post #11 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 05:20 PM
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Did you clean both sides of the colorwheel? It looks like the in-side is not easy to get to. Or is it dirty on one side only?
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post #12 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 05:51 PM
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I think you just sold me an NEC LT240K with sealed optics...

Its not just a hobby, its a 401K reduction plan.
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post #13 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 07:17 PM
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Deja vu all over again. Like what I had to do to all those "guest" Kodak Carousel(tm) projectors before presentations, most of my architecture career. Sometimes I really ticked the host/hostess off by cleaning the rental projector's lenses/prisms/bulb, whatever. Like,"engraved" fingerprints and even DUSTBUNNIES man. Always used an alcohol-based Kodak lens-cleaner(specially-buffered for coatings), and a clean, white, much-washed linen handkerchief(NEVER tissue, even "lens" tissue).
FWIW,
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PS: Same for all my Nikon F2 lenses except, um, the less cleaning you can get by with, the better. All my lenses are cherry after 30 years of use.
PPS: Even further off-topic, just learned that ordinary 35mm color film, ISO 200 speed, is the equivalent of 18 megapixels....
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post #14 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 07:53 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by rickster904
Did you clean both sides of the colorwheel? It looks like the in-side is not easy to get to. Or is it dirty on one side only?

Anyone have an answer to this?
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post #15 of 208 Old 03-18-2004, 08:30 PM
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I found mine dirty on the outside only. Once cleaned, it was crystal clear again. Those having apprehension about this task just need to tackle it and see how simple it really is. The only things that could go wrong is if you put too much pressure on the glass causing it to crack, or use too much liquid and let it drip underneath the area that you can't reach. This might cause smears that you couldn't get to without opening the case.

I would suggest trying long Qtips to make it easier to reach into the narrow bulb housing.

I have heard even a broken wheel got covered by warranty.

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post #16 of 208 Old 03-19-2004, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


Originally posted by dmcdayton
I think you just sold me an NEC LT240K with sealed optics...

I thought about sealed optics. Does it seal the colorwheel and bulb together? Since it has a lot of heat, I would think theres some kind of airflow to the bulb. Is the colorwheel sealed within the optic chamber on the LT240K/LT260/HT1000?
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post #17 of 208 Old 03-20-2004, 04:35 PM
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I have to admit it. I just cleaned my colorwheel and the results were pretty darned impressive. When I looked at the colorwheel it had a sort of hazy look to it. As I took a dampened Q-Tip to it I was worried that I was taking the dye off the wheel. That's how dramatically different the wheel looked as it was cleaned. Nervously I continued cleaning. I buffed it up as well as I could and the wheel actually looked Red/Green/Blue/Clear. Before cleaning the colors looked like Magenta, Cyan, Brown and Murky. Put it back together and the old projector looks much more vibrant. I guess I'm a believer. I can't believe that Infocus doesn't recommend this themselves. I only have 4 1/2 months and 745 hours on my projector. I shudder to think what the wheel would look like at 4,000 hours. Anyway, thanks for the tip! I guess I'll do this every 250 hours when I clean the filter.

JayW
P.S. Somebody from Infocus want to weigh in on this? Technut: This is a candidate for your unofficial FAQ.

P.P.S. I dont' think my room is particularly dusty. The filter is never all that dirty. A bit of very fine white dust is all I see each time I clean.

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post #18 of 208 Old 03-20-2004, 05:09 PM
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Jay,

Glad to see that we speak the truth. More times than not, in the past 3-4 months when this solution has been suggested by myself, most have dismissed it as, "surely that couldn't be what my problem is" since they don't want to pull it down to really inspect. Many think that there bulb is dimming and actually have replaced the bulb with less improvement.

It really is a simple, effective maintenance procedure that should be outlined by Infocus, since they designed it this way.


Another convert Speedy,


Dennis
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post #19 of 208 Old 03-20-2004, 05:18 PM
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Sealed optics keep dust from collecting on some internals, but dust buildup is unnavoidable anytime that a fan is used to cool. Look at the buildup in the PC that you are sitting next to. Even the lens gets its share of dust, it is just easier to see and wipe down.

When using these products for HT, we expect the max performance from them, and notice any minute level of detail lost. I doubt that the normal presenter using a small dlp would notice the degradation that we catch when critically surveying our DVD experience.
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post #20 of 208 Old 03-20-2004, 06:04 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by dmcdayton
I think you just sold me an NEC LT240K with sealed optics...

It isnt THAT sealed. The color wheel is still exposed to this kind of contamination. Dust can still get sucked into optical chamer when you adjust the lens. The foam won't stop everything. Eventually even the "sealed optics" get dirty.

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post #21 of 208 Old 03-20-2004, 06:14 PM
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I just popped open my lamp today, the color wheel is spotless, but then again, im only at 150 hours...

I cleaned the filters at 100 hours, and there was very little dust anyhow, maybe there isnt much dust where i mounted it...
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post #22 of 208 Old 03-20-2004, 06:27 PM
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My x1 has 700+ hours and lamp screen cleaned every 250hrs. I just cleaned it again and started the colorwheel cleaning but the color wheel was pretty much spotless..it looked clean and the wet q-tip showed nothing. ..BUT, the lens on the bulb housing made the wet q-tip turn black. Did not look dirty from just a casual look but I got 2 very black wet q-tips before drying and re-buffing. I have not turned it on again yet...waiting to make sure any moisture has dissapated.

My wife keeps saying I never listen to her....or something like that
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post #23 of 208 Old 03-20-2004, 07:07 PM
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I cleaned my filter screens for the second time yesterday after I hit 400 hours on the projector. There was almost no dust whatsoever (a plus for ceiling mounting) and the color wheel was completely spotless.

I've really noticed no dimming to speak of after 400 hours anyway, but I was just curious about the color wheel after reading about it here. I'll continue to clean the lamp housing screens every 200 hours and to check the color wheel each time, even though so far I'm getting virtually no dust in there whatsoever.
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post #24 of 208 Old 03-20-2004, 07:17 PM
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This is happening in my NEC HT1000 as well. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...56#post3553956

It also happened with my NEC LT150Z, but not to this severity.

Guy Kuo
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post #25 of 208 Old 03-20-2004, 08:23 PM
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That picture of Guy's HT1000 colorwheel looked pretty similar to my X1 colorwheel. Different colors, but the effect was the same. I would also point out that the QTip didn't get dirty looking. BUT the dust inside *my* X1 is totally white. So that doesn't surprise me. The damp QTip left a swath of clarity as I wiped it across the colorwheel. Shine a light in there, and look at the reflection (or LACK of a reflection) on the wheel. If it looks hazy try cleaning it.

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post #26 of 208 Old 03-21-2004, 06:00 AM
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Hey, a little cleaning of the lamp housing lens worked pretty good! My colorwheel was clean but lots of dirt on lamp houseing glass. A bit more "Pop" is in my picture now. I am a little nervous about sticking damp q-tips in there, but if your careful I guess no harm will come of it. One of the reasons I bought this machine is it's durability and a long-life, ultra reliable lamp. Now if I can just resist the upgrade bug for awhile longer..........

My wife keeps saying I never listen to her....or something like that
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post #27 of 208 Old 03-21-2004, 07:35 AM
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By the way I'm not sure that QTips are the best way to do the cleaning. I used them, but was nervous about leaving little bits of cotton fluff behind. Don't think I did, but the concern was there. If anyone has a better idea of what cloth or swab to use that would be cool for the next cleaning in about 250 hours. An official recommendation from Infocus would be most welcome. Is Bob from Infocus still reading this forum? Hello?

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post #28 of 208 Old 03-21-2004, 08:42 AM
 
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Quote:


Originally posted by Nelman
BUT, the lens on the bulb housing made the wet q-tip turn black. Did not look dirty from just a casual look but I got 2 very black wet q-tips before drying and re-buffing.
follow-up postHey, a little cleaning of the lamp housing lens worked pretty good!

This is exactly what I noticed the first time I cleaned my filter. There was even a noticeable fingerprint on mine (not my fingerprint; it was kind of "burnt on" - came off easily).
This is an item that is easily overlooked. It is a small, thick glass lens.

BTW: That is a very funny tagline Nelman.
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post #29 of 208 Old 03-21-2004, 08:52 AM
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There are foam-tipped swabs available at places like Staples which are used to clean tape drive heads. Those won't leave lint.
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post #30 of 208 Old 03-21-2004, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
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AkronGuy, I thought to use the foam tipped swabs before but it seems a bit abbrasive. I was afraid to scratch the colorwheel so I went with soft. Also the colorwheel glass and hub seems to be a delicate piece, as the tape head is more robust/sturdy and can stand the pressure of a tape running over it (ok I know some tapes fly over the head and not physically have contact, but you know what I mean). I'm a big car paint buff kind of guy so I avoid anything abbrasive. Something way off here - I used a electric buffer with rubbing compound on an older car. What a mistake..

If you dont wear the soft cotton q-tip down to it's core (the stick) you shouldnt have any fibers coming off of it.


Posting Guy Kuo's hazy colorwheel as a reference to this thread. No bulb crazing here..
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