PLV-Z3 Tweak Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #541 of 922 Old 10-14-2005, 02:51 PM
Senior Member
 
Zipplemeyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 481
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
ROne, I hope you'll start a Z4 tweak thread when you have possession of your new pj. I may get that as well and I look forward your calibration of it.

Moe
Zipplemeyer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #542 of 922 Old 10-14-2005, 04:44 PM
Member
 
sainthalo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 147
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zipplemeyer View Post

ROne, I hope you'll start a Z4 tweak thread when you have possession of your new pj. I may get that as well and I look forward your calibration of it.

Moe

Hes going to have one over on avforums, but maybe he will have one over there in the states too!

Sanyo Z3.5 (Z3+LEE Filters!) Email me for z3.5 filters/instructions
sainthalo is offline  
post #543 of 922 Old 10-14-2005, 06:22 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jeremy Anderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 1,682
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 348
Okay, I got into playing with the service mode, and I've now completely eliminated the need for the 1dB line level attenuator. The following is for those using component video, and requires that you own The Avia Guide To Home Theater. HDMI/DVI users shouldn't need this, as color decoding is reportedly correct for those inputs. The following are detailed instructions for lining up the color decoder so that blue, green and red are all set to NTSC standards (though PAL users should be able to do this too if they have a PAL version of AVIA).

First, put in the Avia Guide to Home Theater and go to the color bars section. Set the lamp mode on the Z3 to HIGH. If you have a line level attenuator on the Cr component lead, you can take it out of the line. Put up the BLUE COLOR BARS and adjust COLOR and TINT in the user menu while holding the blue filter over your eyes (see Avia's instructions on this for more details). Once you have color and tint lined up, the rest will be done in the service menu. IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you change ANYTHING in the service menu, write down your original values!!!! The defaults are listed in the service manual, but be warned nonetheless.

1. To enter the service menu, press and hold the MENU and INPUT buttons on the projector for 5 seconds. An "S" will appear in the corner of the screen. When the S is on screen, press and hold the SCREEN button on the remote until the service menu appears.
2. Press the SELECT key on the remote until the Group Number changes to 4.
3. Press POINT UP until the Item Number changes to 15.
4. On your DVD player, go to Avia's RED COLOR BARS pattern and look through the red filter.
5. Adjust item 15 with the POINT LEFT and POINT RIGHT buttons until you have red and white at the same level (the saturation section of the screen). Oddly, raising the value actually lowers the level... so to bring red push down, you want to raise this value.
6. Press POINT UP to go to Item 16. Adjust this left and right until you have the HUE portion of the pattern matching while looking through the red filter. You might have to bounce back and forth between items 16 and 15, making adjustments until you can no longer see the boxes blinking on the red color bars pattern.
7. Once you have red lined up, change to Avia's GREEN COLOR BARS pattern and look through the green filter.
8. Press UP until you're on Item 17. Adjust using left and right until green and white are at the same level.
9. Press up to go to Item 18 and adjust the hue portion of the green pattern until that matches. As with red, you may have to ping-pong between 17 and 18 to get both saturation and hue to match up.
10. Once you've done this, change to Avia's COLOR DECODER CHECK (first item in Special Tests). If you've properly adjusted the color decoder with the above steps, the red should match up to the white background at the 0% mark when looking through the red filter (meaning that red is now at the proper level), the green should match at 0% when looking through the green filter, and blue should match at 0% when looking through blue.
11. If you're satisfied that all three colors are at 0%, press the POWER button once to exit the service menu. You can now change your lamp mode back to where it was before.

You should end up with FAR better yellows, and thus far the greens seem improved for me (most notably on football and baseball fields). For reference, here's what I ended up with for settings across the board with a CC20R and CC10Y filter combo in place, starting with POWERFUL mode (slightly modified from ROne's last CC20R/CC10Y settings and compared to my ISF'd RPTV):
Contrast +2
Brightness -5
Color +2
Tint +1
Red +9
Green +5
Blue -3
Sharpness -4
Gamma +1
Lamp Low
Iris -40
Gain R +10
Gain G +3
Gain B -9
Offset R -13
Offset G +5
Offset B +7
Gamma R 0
Gamma G 0
Gamma B 0
Auto Black Stretch Off (this changes black level based on the average picture level, and should always be left off, especially when calibrating contrast/brightness)
Contrast Enhancement Off
Transient Improvement Off
Service menu Items (480p - defaults will differ if you're using 720p/1080i):
Item New Default
15 +13 +10
16 +13 +6
17 +5 +9
18 +2 +7

The caveats: The color decoder values are different for each resolution. In other words, if you have a 720p pattern on screen, the defaults for items 15-18 will be different. The service manual (link posted in thread previously) has the default values for items 15-18 in each display resolution.

Happy tweaking, all! I'm off to spin a couple of DVD's on this thing! I'll report back after I get my CC30R filter and try ROne's optimized settings for that.

"Never believe any quote you read on the internet." - Abraham Lincoln
Jeremy Anderson is offline  
post #544 of 922 Old 10-14-2005, 07:59 PM
Member
 
tompa39's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post

Okay, I got into playing with the service mode, and I've now completely eliminated the need for the 1dB line level attenuator. The following is for those using component video, and requires that you own The Avia Guide To Home Theater. HDMI/DVI users shouldn't need this, as color decoding is reportedly correct for those inputs. The following are detailed instructions for lining up the color decoder so that blue, green and red are all set to NTSC standards (though PAL users should be able to do this too if they have a PAL version of AVIA).

First, put in the Avia Guide to Home Theater and go to the color bars section. Set the lamp mode on the Z3 to HIGH. If you have a line level attenuator on the Cr component lead, you can take it out of the line. Put up the BLUE COLOR BARS and adjust COLOR and TINT in the user menu while holding the blue filter over your eyes (see Avia's instructions on this for more details). Once you have color and tint lined up, the rest will be done in the service menu. IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you change ANYTHING in the service menu, write down your original values!!!! The defaults are listed in the service manual, but be warned nonetheless.

1. To enter the service menu, press and hold the MENU and INPUT buttons on the projector for 5 seconds. An "S" will appear in the corner of the screen. When the S is on screen, press and hold the SCREEN button on the remote until the service menu appears.
2. Press the SELECT key on the remote until the Group Number changes to 4.
3. Press POINT UP until the Item Number changes to 15.
4. On your DVD player, go to Avia's RED COLOR BARS pattern and look through the red filter.
5. Adjust item 15 with the POINT LEFT and POINT RIGHT buttons until you have red and white at the same level (the saturation section of the screen). Oddly, raising the value actually lowers the level... so to bring red push down, you want to raise this value.
6. Press POINT UP to go to Item 16. Adjust this left and right until you have the HUE portion of the pattern matching while looking through the red filter. You might have to bounce back and forth between items 16 and 15, making adjustments until you can no longer see the boxes blinking on the red color bars pattern.
7. Once you have red lined up, change to Avia's GREEN COLOR BARS pattern and look through the green filter.
8. Press UP until you're on Item 17. Adjust using left and right until green and white are at the same level.
9. Press up to go to Item 18 and adjust the hue portion of the green pattern until that matches. As with red, you may have to ping-pong between 17 and 18 to get both saturation and hue to match up.
10. Once you've done this, change to Avia's COLOR DECODER CHECK (first item in Special Tests). If you've properly adjusted the color decoder with the above steps, the red should match up to the white background at the 0% mark when looking through the red filter (meaning that red is now at the proper level), the green should match at 0% when looking through the green filter, and blue should match at 0% when looking through blue.
11. If you're satisfied that all three colors are at 0%, press the POWER button once to exit the service menu. You can now change your lamp mode back to where it was before.

You should end up with FAR better yellows, and thus far the greens seem improved for me (most notably on football and baseball fields). For reference, here's what I ended up with for settings across the board with a CC20R and CC10Y filter combo in place, starting with POWERFUL mode (slightly modified from ROne's last CC20R/CC10Y settings and compared to my ISF'd RPTV):
Contrast +2
Brightness -5
Color +2
Tint +1
Red +9
Green +5
Blue -3
Sharpness -4
Gamma +1
Lamp Low
Iris -40
Gain R +10
Gain G +3
Gain B -9
Offset R -13
Offset G +5
Offset B +7
Gamma R 0
Gamma G 0
Gamma B 0
Auto Black Stretch Off (this changes black level based on the average picture level, and should always be left off, especially when calibrating contrast/brightness)
Contrast Enhancement Off
Transient Improvement Off
Service menu Items (480p - defaults will differ if you're using 720p/1080i):
Item New Default
15 +13 +10
16 +13 +6
17 +5 +9
18 +2 +7

The caveats: The color decoder values are different for each resolution. In other words, if you have a 720p pattern on screen, the defaults for items 15-18 will be different. The service manual (link posted in thread previously) has the default values for items 15-18 in each display resolution.

Happy tweaking, all! I'm off to spin a couple of DVD's on this thing! I'll report back after I get my CC30R filter and try ROne's optimized settings for that.

Really excellent work!! I´m wondering though, I have a PAL version of DVE .. Could this be used aswell or is the AVIA PAL recommended .. I have the NTSC version of AVIA, but considering that I mostly watch PAL movies I should probably use a PAL based version of AVIA instead, right? Would be sweet if I could get this tweaked aswell .. I´m fairly confident that once I am done with that, I won´t change the settings ever again
tompa39 is offline  
post #545 of 922 Old 10-14-2005, 10:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jeremy Anderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 1,682
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 348
Considering that each resolution has different settings for those Item numbers, you would actually have to calibrate both NTSC and PAL independently. DVE's color bars pattern should let you do the color decoder tweak because it has the green, cyan, magenta, etc. on that pattern as well. Might take a little more work, but it should be doable. What you might try is doing the NTSC with Avia first as laid out above, then writing down what numbers you get for that... and try plugging them in when you're doing it with DVE PAL to see if it gets you at least in the ballpark. I'm not sure what the color space differences are between NTSC and PAL, but I wouldn't think it would be radically different. I would try plugging in the same numbers you end up with on NTSC and then do a little fine-tuning on PAL.

I just spun the movie STEALTH on my Z3, and I'm really liking the results. Forests, grass, etc. have a deeper green now, and yellows aren't as orange. Fleshtones are vastly improved, with less red in shadowed areas. INHD should be showing their Tune-Up program early in the morning that has a color calibration pattern, so I'm going to use that to tweak the decoding on both my 720p and 1080i settings (by changing my HD-DVR box's output resolution so it scales). Overall, I think this is an outstanding tweak for component video users!

I'm still poking around through old Z2 material to see if I can find any similar tweaks between them (i.e. panel alignment that isn't correctable through the Z3's VB adjustment). I'll post anything else I dig up.

"Never believe any quote you read on the internet." - Abraham Lincoln
Jeremy Anderson is offline  
post #546 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 07:19 AM
Member
 
tompa39's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post

Considering that each resolution has different settings for those Item numbers, you would actually have to calibrate both NTSC and PAL independently. DVE's color bars pattern should let you do the color decoder tweak because it has the green, cyan, magenta, etc. on that pattern as well. Might take a little more work, but it should be doable. What you might try is doing the NTSC with Avia first as laid out above, then writing down what numbers you get for that... and try plugging them in when you're doing it with DVE PAL to see if it gets you at least in the ballpark. I'm not sure what the color space differences are between NTSC and PAL, but I wouldn't think it would be radically different. I would try plugging in the same numbers you end up with on NTSC and then do a little fine-tuning on PAL.

Ok, I guess I can try that .. I only have the filters that are provided with DVE as i´ve lost the ones that I had for AVIA .. Those will work fine for AVIA aswell?

Are you going to have to change these settings again once you get your CC30R or is that not needed?
tompa39 is offline  
post #547 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 08:11 AM
Advanced Member
 
TazExprez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I just ordered the Z3 with an OPPO DVD player. I currently also have an HTPC, but I wanted to keep it simple for others using the system and bought a DVD player, since my other one just died.

I would like to know if I should get the CC20R and CC10Y filters, or just the CC30R filter. Also, how should I connect my Z3 and OPPO? Should I use DVI-HDMI or component? I noticed that you recommend getting a 1dB attenuator for the Cr cable.

I am thinking of getting wall plates for the component and DVI-HDMI cables. Will this cause any noticeable signal degradation? Is it highly recommended for me to connect this PJ directly to the sources, without any plates?

Also, which screen do you recommend for this PJ? I would like to get good viewing angles, although most of the time I will be viewing it directly.

Which program do you think I should use to calibrate this PJ. I currently have DVE (NTSC Component version), AVIA, and Sound & Vision HT Tune-Up Guide.

Thanks for any help.

HD-A1 + XBOX Add-On + PS3 = Format Neutral
TazExprez is offline  
post #548 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 10:05 AM
Member
 
GeerGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I received my CC30R filter yesterday, went with ROnes settings and then tweaked with DVE. Best picture yet. Colors look very natural and contrast is very good.

I use HDMI with HD sat box and component (using -1dB on red) with DVD player. Both look great with these settings.

I think that my only issue with this setup is going to be having to replace the filters when they degrade. I have not found a cheap source for the filters in my area and ordering online, with shipping costs, is $25CDN per filter.


TazExprez:

I would get the CC30R filter and use HDMI.

I have a 92" Da-Lite HCMW (grey) screen and am very happy with it. I have 4 seats across, about 10.5' away from screen and don't notice any significant difference from 1 seat to any other. The only thing that I have noticed on the 2 end seats is on very bright scenes you sometimes see a very bright "speck" (spot of light) on the screen. I think that this is from the bright light reflecting on the screen material in just the right way. Not a major problem for me.

DVE or AVIA, both would work fine.

Time to put some hours on my bulb.....
GeerGuy is offline  
post #549 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 12:48 PM
Advanced Member
 
TazExprez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Thanks a lot for your help. I'll order the CC30R filter and the 1dB attenuator.

Are your two end seats on a big angle from the screen? My seating will be mostly directly in front of the screen, but the seating on the left end will be slightly off. The people sitting at this end will also be closer to the screen, at about 10'. Also, I may use an extra chair to the right of the sofa. This would also be at a slight angle.

I have included a picture of my sofa and the area where I plan to put my screen. I have colored in the screen, btw.

I would also like to know where I could get a cheap material to act as a temporary screen. I would like to get a temporary screen to see what size I should get mine. Btw, what if I get a 106" screen and don't want to use the whole screen? If I only use 92" of it, will the "white" borders be annoying? Is it highly recommended to always strech images to the black borders?

Thanks for all of your help.

HD-A1 + XBOX Add-On + PS3 = Format Neutral
TazExprez is offline  
post #550 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 12:49 PM
Advanced Member
 
TazExprez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Here are this images.
LL
LL

HD-A1 + XBOX Add-On + PS3 = Format Neutral
TazExprez is offline  
post #551 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 01:06 PM
Senior Member
 
ROne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: notts, UK
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
You guys will be pleased to know so far I can't better the Z3s CR unless I use the adaptive iris which is just too excitable in some of the picture modes.

I have done a Z4 CR measurement with the adaptive Iris on using powerful and it will yield an incredible 6895:1 ! But the iris makes dark scenes really distracting, it could do with turning off below 30iRE.

AE2000here.


Z4tweaksDOC1.1
ROne is offline  
post #552 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 02:53 PM
Member
 
sainthalo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 147
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
ROne - just a thought but powlest found a service manual for the Z3 - maybe if you play around with the url etc you can track down the z4 service manual and help sort out that iris. Amazing CR though with the iris!

Geerguy - glad they got their safely

Jeremy - Wish i could join in with your tweaks but i exclusively use the htpc dvi hdmi connection

Sanyo Z3.5 (Z3+LEE Filters!) Email me for z3.5 filters/instructions
sainthalo is offline  
post #553 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 02:57 PM
Senior Member
 
ROne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: notts, UK
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by sainthalo View Post

ROne - just a thought but powlest found a service manual for the Z3 - maybe if you play around with the url etc you can track down the z4 service manual and help sort out that iris. Amazing CR though with the iris!

Geerguy - glad they got their safely

Jeremy - Wish i could join in with your tweaks but i exclusively use the htpc dvi hdmi connection

I did actually think of that, but I've found a work around ... In the new Z4 tweak thread epic!

AE2000here.


Z4tweaksDOC1.1
ROne is offline  
post #554 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 07:03 PM
Member
 
tompa39's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post

Considering that each resolution has different settings for those Item numbers, you would actually have to calibrate both NTSC and PAL independently. DVE's color bars pattern should let you do the color decoder tweak because it has the green, cyan, magenta, etc. on that pattern as well. Might take a little more work, but it should be doable. What you might try is doing the NTSC with Avia first as laid out above, then writing down what numbers you get for that... and try plugging them in when you're doing it with DVE PAL to see if it gets you at least in the ballpark. I'm not sure what the color space differences are between NTSC and PAL, but I wouldn't think it would be radically different. I would try plugging in the same numbers you end up with on NTSC and then do a little fine-tuning on PAL.

I just spun the movie STEALTH on my Z3, and I'm really liking the results. Forests, grass, etc. have a deeper green now, and yellows aren't as orange. Fleshtones are vastly improved, with less red in shadowed areas. INHD should be showing their Tune-Up program early in the morning that has a color calibration pattern, so I'm going to use that to tweak the decoding on both my 720p and 1080i settings (by changing my HD-DVR box's output resolution so it scales). Overall, I think this is an outstanding tweak for component video users!

I'm still poking around through old Z2 material to see if I can find any similar tweaks between them (i.e. panel alignment that isn't correctable through the Z3's VB adjustment). I'll post anything else I dig up.

Ok, I did like you suggested and it worked great .. I adjusted tint/color to begin with and then went on to adjust red and green through the service menu .. I ended up with almost the same values as you did, + - a notch here or there .. I then used the DVE PAL color pattern to tweak it according to PAL .. Actually the changes in values where only minor but I ended up with a perfect color pattern .. Together with the CC30R and these new system values the picture is more or less perfect. and I don´t think it will get any better than this .. All I need to do now is to stock up on some filters .. Thanks a bunch Jeremy, excellent work both by you and ROne as usual ..
tompa39 is offline  
post #555 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 08:44 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jeremy Anderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 1,682
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 348
No problem, Tompa. I actually redid mine a bit today, because the yellows were a little too vibrant. A few minor modifications, and it looks gorgeous. I spun Batman Begins on it for a third time tonight (for a friend) and you can definitely tell a difference in the midtones of people's faces. Having proper color decoding helps a lot. I have no idea why they can do perfect decoding with HDMI, but have red push and green pull on component.

Taz, if you're willing to do the service menu tweak I outlined, you don't need the 1dB attenuator for the component input. I took mine out before I did the color decoder tweaking, and now it looks better and has no more red push (which is what the attenuator was there to fix). If, however, you don't want to go mucking about in the service menus, the attenuator definitely helps with the excess red. After my decoder tweaks, my attenuator is now resting peacefully in one of my drawers.

I'll report back after I get the CC30R filter in and try ROne's optimized settings for it. Until then, I'm watching movies!

"Never believe any quote you read on the internet." - Abraham Lincoln
Jeremy Anderson is offline  
post #556 of 922 Old 10-15-2005, 08:52 PM
Advanced Member
 
TazExprez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Thanks a lot for your help.

Like how many hours does a filter last, btw?

HD-A1 + XBOX Add-On + PS3 = Format Neutral
TazExprez is offline  
post #557 of 922 Old 10-16-2005, 06:48 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Jeremy Anderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 1,682
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 348
I've run mine for about 600 hours since putting the filters in place, and they're starting to warp a little now. However, if you mount them like some people are over at avforums.com using plastic food lids, that should prevent warping. Then you just have to worry about the filter fading, but that should take a while.

"Never believe any quote you read on the internet." - Abraham Lincoln
Jeremy Anderson is offline  
post #558 of 922 Old 10-16-2005, 10:48 AM
Senior Member
 
ROne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: notts, UK
Posts: 370
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
That CC30R and Powerful mode were made for each other.

I wish I was back in Z3 tweak land, it's lonely out here.

AE2000here.


Z4tweaksDOC1.1
ROne is offline  
post #559 of 922 Old 10-16-2005, 10:53 AM
Member
 
sainthalo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 147
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post

I've run mine for about 600 hours since putting the filters in place, and they're starting to warp a little now. However, if you mount them like some people are over at avforums.com using plastic food lids, that should prevent warping. Then you just have to worry about the filter fading, but that should take a while.

There are more details on the mounting here:
http://www.avforums.com/forums/showt...&page=14&pp=15

Presentation:
http://rapidshare.de/files/5598199/sho_filters.zip.html

Image:

Sanyo Z3.5 (Z3+LEE Filters!) Email me for z3.5 filters/instructions
sainthalo is offline  
post #560 of 922 Old 10-16-2005, 11:15 AM
Member
 
shanksworthy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 177
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Finalheaven View Post

I've tried Rone's unfiltered settings, Jeremy's settings, my own calibration, but at the end of the day, I like the factory defaults best!?! Is this weird? I can't tell if it's off at all, but no complaints from the gf either.

I'm with you on that one. I've tried all the different tweaks, and I have to say that none of them look all that great to my eyes... too dark in fact, and a little depressing. All the outdoor scenes look like it's always about to rain.

The Powerful factory default does it for me; The colours are punchy and bright, and look almost plasma-like on my SilverStar. Of course some might complain that the whites are too bright, but that's the way I like it and my friends and wife agree. The lighter blacks don't bother me at all; Maybe it's just an optical illusion but when contrasted against brighter shades, the overall effect is black as intended unless you're focusing on it with a critical eye.

Also I've squinted and stared but I just can't see this "blue"-black phemonenon that people are trying to filter out -- not even the slightest hint of blue. It could be my screen, or maybe I need to get my eyeglass perscription updated .
shanksworthy is offline  
post #561 of 922 Old 10-16-2005, 11:47 AM
Member
 
tompa39's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post

No problem, Tompa. I actually redid mine a bit today, because the yellows were a little too vibrant. A few minor modifications, and it looks gorgeous. I spun Batman Begins on it for a third time tonight (for a friend) and you can definitely tell a difference in the midtones of people's faces. Having proper color decoding helps a lot. I have no idea why they can do perfect decoding with HDMI, but have red push and green pull on component.

Taz, if you're willing to do the service menu tweak I outlined, you don't need the 1dB attenuator for the component input. I took mine out before I did the color decoder tweaking, and now it looks better and has no more red push (which is what the attenuator was there to fix). If, however, you don't want to go mucking about in the service menus, the attenuator definitely helps with the excess red. After my decoder tweaks, my attenuator is now resting peacefully in one of my drawers.

I'll report back after I get the CC30R filter in and try ROne's optimized settings for it. Until then, I'm watching movies!


Yeah, give a shout out once you get the filter and have tried it out .. Perhaps you´ll come up with something new, who knows (i´m worried that the tweaking of system values might have screwed up the colors that ROne had set up but it does look very nice indeed .. I will toggle back to the original systemvalues later tonight to check the differance in colors).. Back to the theatre, the hostage dvd is spinning hot

Edit: My numbers came down to this:

Group 4
NO 15 +14
NO 16 +12
NO 17 +5
NO 18 +2

The red was quite of for me compared to your values, so I had to tweak them abit .. The green was impossible to get 100% but I found that the values you had came very close .. I compared the picture with the original one from ROne and the changes where minor but i´m betting that it does make a differance in some scenes .. These values might help those that use PAL based dvds
tompa39 is offline  
post #562 of 922 Old 10-17-2005, 01:57 PM
Newbie
 
dsundelin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Is there anyone who can help me. I have Z3 its standard and Denon 1920. I use hdmi and 720p. Can someone please tell me what tweaks i should do. I have tried to read and understand this thread but... =(
What should i change to get the best picture? I have tried with "the calibrator" but it looks like ****, dont think im the tweak master =) So please help me.
dsundelin is offline  
post #563 of 922 Old 10-17-2005, 02:00 PM
Member
 
tompa39's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsundelin View Post

Is there anyone who can help me. I have Z3 its standard and Denon 1920. I use hdmi and 720p. Can someone please tell me what tweaks i should do. I have tried to read and understand this thread but... =(
What should i change to get the best picture? I have tried with "the calibrator" but it looks like ****, dont think im the tweak master =) So please help me.

Follow the thread carefully for tips and tricks .. DVE or AVIA is way better than the calibrator when it comes to tweaking the picture quality with gray scales and such .. It´s not easy at first, but don´t give up and try many diffrent settings and write down values that you like and then tweak them even further .. Happy tweaking!
tompa39 is offline  
post #564 of 922 Old 10-17-2005, 02:41 PM
Newbie
 
dsundelin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks tompa but i would be happier if someone could write down their settings because it will take me that much time to read that whole thread. i think my z3 will be in the museum when im done. So i was thinking if someone that likes to tweak could help me with the settings they like.
Hope u understand.
dsundelin is offline  
post #565 of 922 Old 10-18-2005, 04:09 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Jeremy Anderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 1,682
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 348
Personally, I don't understand why anyone should have to repost their settings because you're too disinterested to read the thread. Scroll back through the last few pages and you'll find what you need.

"Never believe any quote you read on the internet." - Abraham Lincoln
Jeremy Anderson is offline  
post #566 of 922 Old 10-18-2005, 08:45 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Ron-P's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Surf City, CA
Posts: 1,046
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
You can always do what I did dsundelin. I printed out this entire thread, bound it together and started reading it like a book. It's much easier to read on paper then on screen.

Sometimes you reach what's real by making believe.
Ron-P is offline  
post #567 of 922 Old 10-18-2005, 02:27 PM
Member
 
Frank Jaeger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 114
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
this is my first projector, got some questions..

is there a specific setting circulating on the web to maximise the picture quality from your sanyo Z3?

or are there different settings? dark rooms, small screens etc all have an influence?

Can someone post settings?

don't blame me, I don't want to check 19 pages
Frank Jaeger is offline  
post #568 of 922 Old 10-18-2005, 02:41 PM
AVS Special Member
 
CT_Wiebe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 6,437
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
HINT: If you click on the "Thread Tools" and select the "Download This Thread" you will get the entire thread as a single "PLV-Z3_Tweak_Thread.rtf" document. This can be read, and searched, using "Wordpad" (preferred), "Notepad", or any other simple word-processing software program. That makes it much easier to find the "settings" that others have posted.

- Claus {non-Santa model}
CT_Wiebe is offline  
post #569 of 922 Old 10-18-2005, 04:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Finalheaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts
Posts: 373
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So, I just got my Z3 about a week ago. I've been running it pretty perfectly, but I made my first mistake you could say.

I turned the Z3 on to warm it up, and it was displaying the blue screen with the No Signal box in the bottom. It was counting down from 5.

I was adjusting my PJ on the cart, messing around with angles and what not, and I forgot about the countdown. All of the sudden the screen disappeared and the red light started flashing.

I was like, "oh no, I forgot about the signal. Well, since it's already shutting itself down, I'll plug in the HDMI cable, and let it stay shut off for awhile before turning it on."

Well, apparently, it detected the signal anyway while it was shutting off, and turned itself back on. There came a tiny *zap* sound from inside and the lamp came back on.

So, did I "kill" my lamp's life by doing that?

Suckie. lol. And all cause the woman distracted me.
Finalheaven is offline  
post #570 of 922 Old 10-18-2005, 07:33 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Smarty-pants's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 16,160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 105 Post(s)
Liked: 129
Finalhaven
Your screwed. This is a big no-no when it comes to projectors. Your lamp will be lucky to last 100 hours... if that. Sorry

































Just kidding I actually have no idea

~Dave

...Theater Room Setup...
JVC DLA-RS40-U... Oppo BDP-105D... Toshiba HD-XA2... Uverse VIP-2250... Roku Streaming Stick... Emotiva XPA-3... Onkyo TX-SR805
JBL LC2 (x3) ... JBL L820 (x6) ... SVS PB10-ISD (x2) ... SVS 20-39-PCI
Smarty-pants is offline  
Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

Tags
Sanyo Plv Z3000 1080p Home Theater Projector
Gear in this thread - Z3000 by PriceGrabber.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off