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post #121 of 1081 Old 11-15-2005, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utility View Post

the lamp mode should be only setting affecting the fan speed.
if your Z4 is louder than your Z2 in low lamp mode then i guess it is faulty.
the Z2 should be way louder than the Z4 (i also had a Z2 before)

Well - I just did a factory reset, and the fan went right down to where I would have expected it to be - quite quit

The PJ is ceiling mounted, so the first thing I did was to change the 'Mounting' in the menu from 'Off' to 'Cieling' - then the fan instantly raised RPM's to the high level again.
If I then set it back to Off, the fan will spin down.
Only in the Off setting the fan will spin down.

Is this normal ? - could someone please verify, thanks .....
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post #122 of 1081 Old 11-15-2005, 03:56 PM
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Yep, you are right, when setting the mounting option to off my fan spins way down and becomes really close to silent! I was really curious about why some people were saying that they could barely hear the fan whereas I could clearly hear mine although it wasn't terribly loud. This is really annoying, because now I know how silent it should be. I am going to write Sanyo about this and see what they say. I really hope there is an easy way to get around this issue.
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post #123 of 1081 Old 11-15-2005, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acegamer View Post

Yep, you are right, when setting the mounting option to off my fan spins way down and becomes really close to silent! I was really curious about why some people were saying that they could barely hear the fan whereas I could clearly hear mine although it wasn't terribly loud. This is really annoying, because now I know how silent it should be. I am going to write Sanyo about this and see what they say. I really hope there is an easy way to get around this issue.

I'm in exact the same position as you ... damn
This is a software bug, right ?
Thanks for the verification, and hopefully Sanyo will supply us with a nice and easy solution - please come back when you have some news
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post #124 of 1081 Old 11-15-2005, 04:24 PM
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Hey, okay I just talked with a Sanyo rep and he explained to me what is going on:

What they have done is built sensors into the projector that detect heat so that the fan will change speed based on temperature. Since heat rises and it will always be hotter at the ceiling than what is at the floor they have engineered the fan to run at a higher baseline level whenever the projector is ceiling mounted. He said that they did this to safeguard the projector from slowly overheating. Unfortunately this means that there is no way for us to get the fan noise down to its lowest levels when in the ceiling mounted position.

I'm really bummed to know that, but I guess it's better for it to be that way than for the projector to overheat and have major problems. Oh well, guess I'll just have to keep that surround sound volume up.
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post #125 of 1081 Old 11-15-2005, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acegamer View Post

Hey, okay I just talked with a Sanyo rep and he explained to me what is going on:

What they have done is built sensors into the projector that detect heat so that the fan will change speed based on temperature. Since heat rises and it will always be hotter at the ceiling than what is at the floor they have engineered the fan to run at a higher baseline level whenever the projector is ceiling mounted. He said that they did this to safeguard the projector from slowly overheating. Unfortunately this means that there is no way for us to get the fan noise down to its lowest levels when in the ceiling mounted position.

I'm really bummed to know that, but I guess it's better for it to be that way than for the projector to overheat and have major problems. Oh well, guess I'll just have to keep that surround sound volume up.

Umm, please don't take this the wrong way... my name my be Smarty-pants but I'm not tryin to be now. I think they're feedin you a line of BS man. What would be the difference for heat when ceiling mounting?... unless it's mounted right AGAINST the ceiling? What if it has plenty of space above it?... what then?

~Dave

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post #126 of 1081 Old 11-16-2005, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acegamer View Post

Hey, okay I just talked with a Sanyo rep and he explained to me what is going on:

What they have done is built sensors into the projector that detect heat so that the fan will change speed based on temperature. Since heat rises and it will always be hotter at the ceiling than what is at the floor they have engineered the fan to run at a higher baseline level whenever the projector is ceiling mounted. He said that they did this to safeguard the projector from slowly overheating. Unfortunately this means that there is no way for us to get the fan noise down to its lowest levels when in the ceiling mounted position.

Thanks for your help to clear this out.

Well - the fan speed is controlled by temperature, so now I will have to construct a reverse mounting.....shelf-like.
What irritates me most, is why they don't put this usefull information in the manual - I was very close to ship the unit back as defect.
If someone finds a way to bypass this 'feature', please let us know
Thanks.
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post #127 of 1081 Old 11-16-2005, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acegamer View Post

Hey, okay I just talked with a Sanyo rep and he explained to me what is going on:

What they have done is built sensors into the projector that detect heat so that the fan will change speed based on temperature. Since heat rises and it will always be hotter at the ceiling than what is at the floor they have engineered the fan to run at a higher baseline level whenever the projector is ceiling mounted. He said that they did this to safeguard the projector from slowly overheating. Unfortunately this means that there is no way for us to get the fan noise down to its lowest levels when in the ceiling mounted position.

I'm really bummed to know that, but I guess it's better for it to be that way than for the projector to overheat and have major problems. Oh well, guess I'll just have to keep that surround sound volume up.

Yeah sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rivmin View Post

Thanks for your help to clear this out.

Well - the fan speed is controlled by temperature, so now I will have to construct a reverse mounting.....shelf-like..

In eco mode save temperature levels are:
TempA 27 - 35 (outer temp around the intake) could be for example 25-28
TempB 53 (temp wherefrom fan speeds start rising, error temp is >58)
TempC 46 (temp wherefrom fan speeds start rising, error temp is >51)
Never allow tempB and C over those values.

Go to the service menu and there group 102. Then put Item no 0 value 0 = Normal, 1 = Ceiling, change it to 1 for have influence to Ceiling mount. Then:

Item 50 (eco mode fan 1 minimum speed) value 1680 -> changeto -> 1245
Item 52 (eco mode fan 3 minimum speed) value 2340 -> changeto -> 1605

And please dont touch any other item values, absolutely not maximum speed values!

Then watch movie 1 h and go to the servive menu again, 1 h and repeat. Get followed values in group 102:

Good
TempA 26,73 or less
TempB 50,50 or less
TempC 40,11 or less

If TempB rise over 52 make following change:
Item 52 (eco mode fan 3 minimum speed) rise value up few hundreds step at a time until tempB fall to 49-50 and stays.

(If at any reason tempA are well over 27 maybe 28 even 29, you may want to make sure that projector have constantly more air for intake and panel cooling. Then you might want to do following:
Item 53 (eco mode fan 4 minimum speed) value 1815 -> changeto -> 1815 + (X-27) * 300
Where X = TempA when you have watch 2 hour. Nevertheless last doing is not absolutely necessary, because when tempA rise over 27 it already rise fan speeds and therefore you dont burn projector anyway.)

"And, hey - let's be careful out
there."
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post #128 of 1081 Old 11-16-2005, 10:21 AM
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Wow, I'd be very afraid of doing that. Wouldn't that violate the warranty?
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post #129 of 1081 Old 11-16-2005, 11:04 AM
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Hey Jupe

welcome on(the)board! You seem to be a great addition of knowledge
Couldn't you also post a change of settings for the servicemenue, that overwrites the "natural" preset with a perfectly calibrated D65-setting based on "Creative" picture mode?
I mean, I really thought about that, no joke!

That would be just amazing

joerg
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post #130 of 1081 Old 11-17-2005, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jupe View Post

In eco mode save temperature levels are:
TempA 27 - 35 (outer temp around the intake) could be for example 25-28
TempB 53 (temp wherefrom fan speeds start rising, error temp is >58)
TempC 46 (temp wherefrom fan speeds start rising, error temp is >51)
Never allow tempB and C over those values.

Go to the service menu and there group 102. Then put Item no 0 value 0 = Normal, 1 = Ceiling, change it to 1 for have influence to Ceiling mount.

Super-tweak
This means that we can cieling-mount the unit and still get the low fan speed, right ?

Btw - does the unit have 3 fans with 1 sensor each, or are the 3 sensors just located different places and controlling 1 fan ?
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post #131 of 1081 Old 11-17-2005, 03:55 AM
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as we are talking about the service menu now.
i am not sure if anyone has posted it yet but you can download the Z4 service manual here
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post #132 of 1081 Old 11-17-2005, 05:09 AM
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thanks for the service manual link! I couldn't resist the urge to check out those fan speed settings last night, but I didn't know how to change anything so I just left it alone. I'll check in the manual and see if I can understand how to move around in it. The fan speed is about twice as high in the ceiling mount mode so I would definately love to get it back down. I'm also considering building a different kind of ceiling mount that would allow me to set the projector right side up. The only downside is that it would be much bulkier looking than the mount that I have now. I could also go the shelf mount route, but I already have all of my cables and power outlet setup for the ceiling location.
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post #133 of 1081 Old 11-17-2005, 07:12 AM
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the problem with the service manual is, that it just lists all the settings without really describing them in detail.
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post #134 of 1081 Old 11-17-2005, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm going to have a play in the service menu with the Manual CLOSED iris setting, see if I can lower it.

There's a whole bunch of auto IRIS settings, I'm going to see what can be tweaked.

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post #135 of 1081 Old 11-17-2005, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Right, been messing with the LAMP IRIS closed setting - the default CLOSED is not very closed at all - so I've been into service menu and lowered the relative light level for the lamp iris.

So instead of AUTO lamp iris I'm now running on a lower CLOSED setting, it's looking very good - much better black level - when run in conjunction with a POWERFUL preset you are getting both top end and very good bottom end black level without the auto iris.

So far two problems with this - uniformity is worse the more you lower the LAMP iris and POWERFUL needs some careful balancing to get to D65.

Not had the guts yet to mess with the auto settings ...

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post #136 of 1081 Old 11-17-2005, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivmin View Post

Super-tweak
This means that we can cieling-mount the unit and still get the low fan speed, right ?

Precisely.

Quote:


Btw - does the unit have 3 fans with 1 sensor each, or are the 3 sensors just located different places and controlling 1 fan ?

Actually unit have 5 fans. Service manual (link above) cover all these details. Only you must select which fans can possible turn to lower level and of course with reasoning. (Not much sense turn minimum speed lower if for respond to thermostatic event it rise up anyway.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by acegamer View Post

Wow, I'd be very afraid of doing that. Wouldn't that violate the warranty?

Maybe. There are other reasons to make this rather with service manual than... look at this:

Quote:


so now I will have to construct a reverse mounting.....shelf-like.

People invent. In a second grows up multiple ways to use projector in ceiling mount with "normal eco" silence and of course whats important "no violate the warranty". Plaze projector upside down and use HTPC or other thirds option to turn video for ceiling. Use magically stretching lensshift at other end like rivmin suggest making ugly rack etc. But those methods are worse, they dont pay regard temperatures at all.

F*** *** *** warranty if it means we have to pay half of all the good entertainment for it.
(* = is in finnish, you could never understand it, so translate is futile.)

In any case there is no need to trim other than minimum speed settings. These dont even count, if room temperature is high enough, because if temp. levels rise, fan speeds rise likewise. After all, there is no need to make change to maximum speeds. (At normal living situations.) With clever control you can make even better. Just a inaudible little greasing up a few selected fans, temperatures can be accurately direct what you best desire.

For example these are the values in group 102 after 3 hours watching, what a moment of home entertaining, I might add. Hope you have other observations for comparison:

Ceiling mode

TempA 25,87
TempB 49,25
TempC 39,31

Fan speeds 1-5
1245 2265 1695 1875 1875
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post #137 of 1081 Old 11-17-2005, 05:26 PM
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So instead of AUTO lamp iris I'm now running on a lower CLOSED setting, it's looking very good - much better black level - when run in conjunction with a POWERFUL preset you are getting both top end and very good bottom end black level without the auto iris.

ROne, you're a stud.
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post #138 of 1081 Old 11-18-2005, 04:33 PM
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Well I did the fan adjustments in the service menu and it worked out well. The fan is much quieter now and I observed the following temperatures after 3 hours:

TempA - 26.31
TempB - 46.75
TempC - 35.60

Thanks for posting the settings!
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post #139 of 1081 Old 11-19-2005, 07:44 AM
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Hi

as promised, I report back: today, the cine4home-tuned Z4 arrived at my dealer's.
I had the chance to look at it for an hour with different material.
First, I have to make a disclaimer to eventual errors, that could have happened during the test.
We had two Z4s - one uncalibrated unit - I'll call it "Z4" here - (set to creative cinema / Kino hell), which was fed via YUV, the cine4home-one ("C4H") was fed from the same Denon DVD-Player via HDMI/DVI. So by covering up the lenses, we could "optically" switch between the both of them on the same screen. What could be of influence, though, are eventually different "Color responses" between YUV and HDMI/DVI. So this is no objective test in terms of perfectly similar conditions.
The room we tested in, is a cellar-room with no windows, walls are painted in a darker, reddish colour, ceiling is a dim white, floor is dark. Good conditions for black level, I guess...

Here are my observations:

First impression of the "C4H" was a wonderfully balanced picture. Skintones looked great on "Beggar Vance" and "LOTR II". Where on the Z4 Frodo looked a bit too "healthy" (without beeing sunburned or anything), C4H just seemed right on.
For my personal taste, the whole picture, even in daytime-scenes, was a bit too dim. I personally would have loved a bit of "spark" to the bright parts of the picture. Switching to Z4, I got that.
(Note: from my home, I know, that even the default "Creative cinema" lacks the "spark" compared for example to ROnes setting, so where does that put C4H at my home??? Can't tell, until I saw it here - again: strictly personal taste - my taste must be off perfect adjustment!!!)
Black level: looking at darker parts of a normal daytime picture, the C4H had a slight bit more differentiation than the Z4. Gimly's "coat" looked a bit more natural and detailed ( a BIT!!!), another scene with Aragorn standing on top of a hill in front of the sky, his dark back of the coat had a little bit more detail.
The black bars on top and bottom of the 21:9 picture were noticeably blacker with the C4H than the Z4. The Z4 had a more greyish, washed-out attidude towards real black.
Whites: one major difference is the quality of the white. Z4 has a white with a slight blueish tendency - I would say, it tends towards "my detergent washes whiter than white"+"add some blacklight-white-discotheque-zing", whereas the C4H white is a bit more "eggshell".
Sky: Z4 is more my kind of thing in sky, with LOTR the sky seemed not all too blue on the C4H
NOTE: since LOTR does use a distinct colour-scheme throughout the movie, please don't put too much weight upon the Sky-remark. I have not seen any "real sky"-DVD in that little test....

Observations with "Beggar Vance": C4H a bit dimmer, a tad more detail in dark clothing (jump to scene 10 and look at the people watching the players, especially the men in their dark suits). Greens not as saturated as with the Z4 - but I guess, the C4H is more "real" in that respect. Also, the Z4 tends to oversaturate brightnesses a bit and looses small amounts of detail, but again, gives the impression of a brighter picture.

We then put in the DVD "Robbie Williams at Royal Albert Hall". There, with the video-camera based material, the C4H had clear advantages: Skintones were just perfect, the Z4 showed more reddish faces, the whole picture looked fake with the Z4, whereas the C4H came across "live".

Then I adjusted the Z4 to the values, I copied from avbuzz (they are posted a few pages back in this thread). The picture of the Z4 got noticeably better with the Robbie-Williams-DVD, not as oversaturated and reddish, a slight correction with the colour-management on Robbie's skintone even improved it, but never was a match to C4H.
I made an interesting discovery in the scene, where Robbie sings the duet with that Saturday night live-host (or whoever that is, sorry, don't know him). In a closeup, Robbie looks to the right, you can see the right side of his face and the top of the wireless microphone. On the C4H, all is wonderfully balanced. On the avbuzz-Z4, the shadow thrown from his ear is dark-purple (C4H: darker skintone), the light's reflection on the black metal case of the mic is blueish (instead of blackish with the C4H).

Auto-Iris: since, as written in this thread, C4H seem to base their calibration on the dynamic setting, this involves some quite heavy iris-action (again: for my personal taste). A new scene stands unaltered for some seconds, then there is a slight "dimming", if the scene continues, then there is some sort of second step to even "heavier dimming". Both actions can clearly be seen - it looks, as if someone pulls the picture away from you and you feel drawn into...
If I could choose any preset with auto-iris-behaviour at all, then I'd go for creative cinema, which is not that heavy. Or - what we actually did toward the end - just shut auto-iris off and chose open iris.

Just a quick insert: ROnes tweak were not appicable for that test - it was way too yellowish and would have needed a recalibration of the DVD-player to match PC-RGB levels, so no comparison possible here - sorry ROne, some other time, promised!

PETER FINZEL Test disc:
Pluge - C4H needed a few seconds of adjustment, then you could see the two small rectangles slightly appear in the upper, bright section. Steps between the four shades looked very evenly distributed. Before the auto-iris came in, no small rectangles, but grey and BTB-bar clearly visible, black background was more greyish than after auto-iris came in

Greyscale: the black bar right next to the "double-big" black bar on the far left was not distinguishable. After auto-iris came in (or was it before - sorry, I don't remember exactly) three steps of the greyscale were undistinguishable from the very left "double-big" one.
Whites were all visible, all the time, no matter before or after auto-iris.

BTB - the moving +4%, +2%, -2%, -4% patterns: Before auto-iris +2% as clearly visible, after it came in only +4% was visible. (should be: -2% hardy hardly visible)
WTW - all patterns were visible all the time (should be +2% hardly hardly visible)

Colour test with blue filter: that was strange, since with the filter, the portions of the test-pattern, that needed to match, did not, they were darker/brigther than the other one. But that may be due to the DVD-player not being properly putting out the signal, or the blue filter not being perfect or, or or.... So: just an observation with no conclusion - I guess, I should trust C4H&Colorfacts more in that regard than a blue filter....


CONCLUSION

My personal feeling is, that especially in the lower regions of brightnesses, the C4H is much more colour accurate than any non-filtered setting I have seen so far.
The dimmer picture is a matter of personal taste. For me personally, I would love to have an extra step of REAL brightness (I guess, that we then need to talk about LUMEN, right?)
If you are looking for a crash-bang-boom-impress-me-hugely picture, then you should take the filter off. If you like it the more natural way, then I guess you are right with the C4H-tuning. Go with the filter for "artsy movies" and take the filter off and choose a "heavy" preset, if you watch Star Wars and want the picture to match your subwoofer
Well, to be a bit more differenciated here: I also think, that LIVING with any of the presets / adjustments / calibrations is also letting you get used to it. Maybe, not having a comparision side by side always present, I would not miss the C4H-picture not being as bright as other calibrations but learn to value the real qualities of that tuning (quote from My Fair Lady: "I grew accustomed to her face" ). It's like with my HiFi: for best and most accurate reproduction, I have tuned my system with interconnects, loudspeaker-cables, the loudspeakers are exactly positioned, my CD-player is tuned and tweaked, my turntable is.... etc., but sometimes, in my car, I switch on loudness just for the fun of it...

I hope, I could give you a bit of a first (personal) impression on the C4H tuned Z4. Please, again, take it with a grain of salt - it's a quickly done observation, with personal taste involved.

Joerg

P.S.:
To help you avoid searching, here are the avbuzz settings, that I used in this "test":

brightness +3
Contrast -3
Color +4
Tint +3
Color temp. Mid
Red 0
Green 0
Blue 0
Sharpness 0 (set it to your liking up to -6)
Lamp control A2
Gamma +1
Lens iris -50
Lamp iris Auto
Auto black Strech Off
Contrast enhancement Off
Transient improvement L1 (or off)


Gain R -5
Gain G -9
Gain B +3
Offset R -15
Offset G +15
Offset B -2
Gamma R +5
Gamma G -5
Gamma B -3
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post #140 of 1081 Old 11-19-2005, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Some interesting observations there Joerg.

I'm going to do several things in the future (maybe over christmas).

1) Try my new CLOSED iris value settings with the POWERFUL or DYNAMIC presets without filter and see how close we can get to D65.

2) Do the same as above but with filter (although early findings demonstrate that light the dimming is a bit much - something you found with the C4H)

3) Have a better crack at D65 on creative cinema

4) Mess with the Auto Iris values in the service menu to see if we can eek out a little better use of the Lamp Iris.

Did you find out what filter they were using?

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post #141 of 1081 Old 11-19-2005, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROne View Post

1) Try my new CLOSED iris value settings with the POWERFUL or DYNAMIC presets without filter and see how close we can get to D65.

ROne, what were your before and after closed iris values from the service menu?
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post #142 of 1081 Old 11-20-2005, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Mitchosky View Post

ROne, what were your before and after closed iris values from the service menu?

I'm not really there yet - for public use at least.

But I think the default is 33 - I dropped it to 20.

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post #143 of 1081 Old 11-21-2005, 10:15 AM
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I read an interesting article in Widescreen Review - tips for your HT install. One that caught my eye was directed at plasma sets but I'm wondering if it might also be relevant for new LCD projectors. The author (installer Terry Paulin) suggests running a full 100IRE whitefield for a period to universally burn off some of the plasma phosphors and make the panel more resistant to future burn-in. Makes good sense.

While burn-in is not an issue for LCD wouldn't an immediate prep of the panels and bulb smooth things out prior to initial calibration?
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post #144 of 1081 Old 11-21-2005, 10:58 AM
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I believe the Sanyo rep re: using a higher baseline for the fan when ceiling mounted. Without a ceiling fan, the air up at the ceiling CAN get considerably warmer than at "desktop" level.

There was a discussion about this in the AE700 thread a year ago, I believe. It does the same thing (higher fan speed when ceiling mounted).
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post #145 of 1081 Old 11-21-2005, 12:22 PM
 
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I am thrilled with the new Sanyo Z4, but tweaked it a little differently from ROne. I prefer using the Dynamic setting and then going from there.

QUESTION: I cannot seem to access the advanced menu. I can click on the advanced menu wording and then have the option to turn it on or off, but no further menu appears at that point whether on or off. What to do?
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post #146 of 1081 Old 11-21-2005, 01:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Sam - once you have selected the Advanced Menu and turned it on - it is then accessible from the IMAGE ADJ menu page 1/2. It's a crap menu structure.

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post #147 of 1081 Old 11-21-2005, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Samuelian View Post

I am thrilled with the new Sanyo Z4, but tweaked it a little differently from ROne. I prefer using the Dynamic setting and then going from there.

QUESTION: I cannot seem to access the advanced menu. I can click on the advanced menu wording and then have the option to turn it on or off, but no further menu appears at that point whether on or off. What to do?
Sam

Sam, we hope that you post your revised Dynamic settings once you are satisfied with them.

Shelly

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post #148 of 1081 Old 11-22-2005, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrad View Post

I believe the Sanyo rep re: using a higher baseline for the fan when ceiling mounted. Without a ceiling fan, the air up at the ceiling CAN get considerably warmer than at "desktop" level.

There was a discussion about this in the AE700 thread a year ago, I believe. It does the same thing (higher fan speed when ceiling mounted).

Its make some sense when speaking to AE700 but similar desing is questionable with Z4. Fan speeds rise 'too much' only in ceiling mode not in ceiling position, not when projector is upside down, not even when projectors cover temperature is above 27 (after 27 Celcius fans rise only in normal way just some hundred rim per degree, what is enough for cooling inside.)

Notice that after those temps rise above certain limits, fan speeds rise too.
Limits are in ecomode:
Temp A 27
Temp B 53
Temp C 46

I mean, after all you can at anytime take Z4 and plaze it to highest place it in your bookshelf where projector is in much warmer position than at ceiling with 10" support without rising fanspeeds. Preceding is possible, because dimension of lensshifts is very exceptional. You can even place the projector exact to same spot upperside up when support have some kind of rack or fist under.

If one make minimum speed adjustment and look at that the real temperatures are under the boundary which btw. are written in to the service manual, he can be much more confident projector are not going to overheat.

It is more important to take care that temperatures stays steady. If after many hours values are (for example)...:

Temp A <27 C
Temp B <50 C
Temp C <40 C

...you have no need to rise minimum speeds, about we have very clear evidence already.

If however there is a acceptable reason for mimimun speed to rise in advance, there must exist the same reason in 'normal position' when roomtemperature is high enough.
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post #149 of 1081 Old 11-23-2005, 12:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick report - did some more messing with Creative Cinema to get D65 with the spider. I will put up the numbers when I'm happy.

It does appear that Creative Cinema may not need the colour management tweaks, but not 100% sure yet. CC is also pretty good out the box but does have some of the silly image settings on by default (transient etc) so be sure to turn them off. CC is definately down on contrast v LIVING not by a massive amount but enough to not force me to flock to it yet.

One thing I did learn was that in HDMI - PC LEVELS - L2 Nvidia VMR, the contrast always starts to colour shift around +8 or +9 if this is any help. You can squeeze the contrast to +9 for a bit of extra boost but you can't get D65 (at 90IRE pattern and above) at this point as it requires too much RED which then makes everything else out of whack (80IRE pattern and below) - so there is a genuine colour shift at +9 Contrast on the Z4 HDMI.

Real world I have set this to +7 which gives you a bit of headroom, and if you want the extra contrast at the expense of a bit of colour balance shift then go as high as +9 but be aware the picture is tracking well away from D65.

More to come ...

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post #150 of 1081 Old 11-23-2005, 10:15 AM
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If Z4 can't provide enough lumen for filter tweaking, you better stay at Creative Cinema without filter. Without enough lumen, it can't display good color. I guess it is good to have filter tweaking if your screen is only 80inch diagonal or 100inch High Power.
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