The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread. - Page 124 - AVS Forum
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post #3691 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by spyder696969 View Post

homer1963,

Nice screenshot. Did you do the cap replacement? I see you live in Roy, so if you did, maybe you'd be willing to help me do mine if I drive it up from SLC? I'd buy you a beer if you did!

Yes I live in Roy and I would be happy to do it for you .I'll take a Mountain Dew!
PM me and we can setup a time.

Home Theater is a great way to check your Wife's Blood Pressure.
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post #3692 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 07:44 AM
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Here are a couple more, not quite as happy with thease:





Home Theater is a great way to check your Wife's Blood Pressure.
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post #3693 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by homer1963 View Post

You wont be sorry we promise

Try Ratshacks that are not in malls(All they seem to have is RC cars and Cell Phones). the stand alone stores carry more inventory. Part number is 272-1032.

Good hunting

Went to my local Ratshack today, and they had the cap! It was in one of those slide-out drawers. Picked that up with some new braid and solder. Good to go!

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post #3694 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 09:36 AM
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I am considering building a HTPC (to use with my 4805) but I wanted to save my DVI port for an HDMI adapter when some next gen stuff comes out. If I use S-Video how much worse would the image be? I have heard of something called a scaler, would that help the resolution any?

Any input it appriciated. Thanks.
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post #3695 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFH View Post

I am considering building a HTPC (to use with my 4805) but I wanted to save my DVI port for an HDMI adapter when some next gen stuff comes out. If I use S-Video how much worse would the image be? I have heard of something called a scaler, would that help the resolution any?

Any input it appriciated. Thanks.

Don't waste your time S-video is just a slightly better version of composite and would not allow you to have 1-1 pixel mapping. You must use a DVI output to achieve this with a HTPC. What next generation stuff are you referring to? There are some programs designed to inprove SD TV signals through a PC, that may be what scaler is. At the very least I would run DVD's through the component input of the 4805.

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post #3696 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFH View Post

I am considering building a HTPC (to use with my 4805) but I wanted to save my DVI port for an HDMI adapter when some next gen stuff comes out. If I use S-Video how much worse would the image be? I have heard of something called a scaler, would that help the resolution any?

Any input it appriciated. Thanks.

Running an HTPC over s-video will not be worth the troulbe. You can run it to the DVI port with a DVI cable and then a DVI-M1 adapter. Then, later on down the road when you acquire 'next gen' equipment with HDMI you can also buy a DVI switch and run an HDMI-DVI cable to the switch as well as your old DVI cable. Then the DVI-M1 from the switch to the projector.
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post #3697 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 10:23 AM
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Well I bought a SP4805 with 900 hours on it. I just can't see spending 1k plus for a 480p dlp when butloads of 720p'a are in the 1.5k range and a lot are sure to approch way less than that in the next 12-24 months. I got a steal on the D1 and a steal on the SP4805 and Gamestop is selling DVD at 3 for $6.50. Win/Win/Win for me for now.
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post #3698 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 11:04 AM
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I've read that you must replace the bad cap in the D1. I've also read that you need to orientate the new cap in the same orientation of the old cap.

Is the dark blue stripe on the side of the cap how you tell its orientation? The only similarity between the bad cap and its replacement is that dark blue stripe down the side.

I replaced the bad cap and put the new cap with the dark blue stripe in the same orientation. Is that right?

I guess if it isn't, the thing won't play right? It does play fine so I must have got it in there right.

My first soldering 'job'. Getting the bad cap out was a bit of a pain but getting the new one in was a piece of cake, as long as I orientated it correctly that is.

I am able to see the menu on the D1 with the macrovision on/off selection, does that mean I do have the latest firmware? Is there a way to check and 'see' which version of the firmware I do have? Also, I had macrovision turned on, which was the default, but the player would not upconvert to 1080i over component, should macrovision be turned off to allow that? My IN72 shows up on Tuesday. I have nothing with a DVI input right now so I guess I can't input the special settings for pixel mapping on the IN72, correct?

Thanks for all the help,
George -bub
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post #3699 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bub View Post

I've read that you must replace the bad cap in the D1. I've also read that you need to orientate the new cap in the same orientation of the old cap.

Is the dark blue stripe on the side of the cap how you tell its orientation? The only similarity between the bad cap and its replacement is that dark blue stripe down the side.

I replaced the bad cap and put the new cap with the dark blue stripe in the same orientation. Is that right?

I guess if it isn't, the thing won't play right? It does play fine so I must have got it in there right.

My first soldering 'job'. Getting the bad cap out was a bit of a pain but getting the new one in was a piece of cake, as long as I orientated it correctly that is.

I am able to see the menu on the D1 with the macrovision on/off selection, does that mean I do have the latest firmware? Is there a way to check and 'see' which version of the firmware I do have? Also, I had macrovision turned on, which was the default, but the player would not upconvert to 1080i over component, should macrovision be turned off to allow that? My IN72 shows up on Tuesday. I have nothing with a DVI input right now so I guess I can't input the special settings for pixel mapping on the IN72, correct?

Thanks for all the help,
George -bub

You're all set, and yes you can't use the custom DVI settings yet if you don't have anything with DVI input!

Sounds like you're good to go, great job!

Enjoy your pj when it shows up-

Wes
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post #3700 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 11:35 AM
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yeah , the cap orientation needs to be maintained. It sounds like you got it , but in the future:

The side of the capacitor with the black stripe down the side ( colors can vary, but this is a description of the RATSHACK replacement cap) indicates the negative side. If I remember it correctly, the circuit board has markings indicating which lead should go where. Once you remove the old cap , you can see the markings on the board. The negative side of the old cap is closer to the adjacent row of capacitors. You can see on the board itself there is a "slashed" hemisphere printed on the board, indicating the side for the negative lead. There is another hemisphere that is not slashed, this is the side for the positive lead of the cap. You can look at the picutre in the post below to see the board. Ill post my how to soon
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post #3701 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 11:35 AM
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the red arrow indicates the hole where the negative lead should be placed
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post #3702 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 11:40 AM
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Nice detailed informative pic. Doing mine on Wednesday
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post #3703 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 11:42 AM
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Yep fellas, guess I got it right. Nice pic of your board, mine had a bunch of brownish/clear gunk at the base of the bad cap. Does that mean the capacitor leaked and my D1 was used? I only turned it on for maybe 2 minutes while I checked to see if I had the latest firmware.

I haven't played a DVD yet but I did stick a DVD in and watched a couple of scenes.

Thanks again for the help,
George -bub
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post #3704 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:12 PM
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I think they coat alot of the components in some type of adhesive. Mine had gunk on it, I just removed it and discarded it. I doubt youll do any harm by using the player, I used mine for a couple of days before doing the mod. Again, Ill post my entire how to in a bit. Does anyone have any recomendations as to where to host a 3mb word document?
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post #3705 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:15 PM
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Hi.... Was wondering if someone could help with a search I've been trying to do. I'm trying to search to see if anyone has replaced their own 4805 color wheel and what might have been said on the matter. Every time I do a search it brings up almost every post in the thread. I've tried.... color wheel replacement.....color+wheel+replacement......color wheel.....color wheel replace......color+wheel+replace.......etc..... I must be doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.....Thanks
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post #3706 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:20 PM
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I've noticed rolling bars on my SA3250HD box. It's very faint and barely noticeable. It's not really noticeable enough to concern me. I should check though if the bars are more apparent at 1080i or 720p.

But in my own way, I am King. Hail to the King, baby.

My Networked Media/Music/DVD Server
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post #3707 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabgab View Post

Hi.... Was wondering if someone could help with a search I've been trying to do. I'm trying to search to see if anyone has replaced their own 4805 color wheel and what might have been said on the matter. Every time I do a search it brings up almost every post in the thread. I've tried.... color wheel replacement.....color+wheel+replacement......color wheel.....color wheel replace......color+wheel+replace.......etc..... I must be doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.....Thanks

There isn't a "standard" color wheel that you can get to replace between projectors, as every manufacturer creates their own color wheel and optimize their projectors to use their wheel. If you want to replace your color wheel you will most likely need to do it through Infocus.

But in my own way, I am King. Hail to the King, baby.

My Networked Media/Music/DVD Server
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post #3708 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:23 PM
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Replaced the capacitor in my D1 that arrived a few days ago. I needed to replace the cap right away, since most DVD's skipped without the modification. It's just a guess, but the "brown gunk" looks to be glue that holds the capacitor in place before soldering. The modification is incredibly easy, I've never soldered anything in my life, and found it to be very straight forward.

The good news is that the picture is fantastic! I have input the custom resolutions and am running at 48hz. I have not tried 60 or 72 yet for a comparison.

I would recommend this player to anyone that wants the best pq regardless of price for a 4805. Grab one before they disappear.
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post #3709 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ja Phule View Post

I've noticed rolling bars on my SA3250HD box. It's very faint and barely noticeable. It's not really noticeable enough to concern me. I should check though if the bars are more apparent at 1080i or 720p.

Welcome to the "club". It seems we can't be sure why some of us are getting this and some aren't. . .

Do check between 1080i and 720p and let us know if there's any difference.

Yes, it is very faint, but takes away from that rock solid HD image that's so nice. . .

Wes
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post #3710 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:33 PM
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For those of you replacing the cap on the D1 and have no soldering experience, you can do a google search on "how to solder". There are some helpful tips. I tried to post a url but don't have 5 posts yet.
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post #3711 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

What is everybodys gut feeling on the build quality of the new Infocus PJ's. The SP4805 had a 2 year warranty, I think Infocus knew it was reliable. The new IN72 has just 1 year warranty, this could be looked at 2 ways, 1: they want to make money on repairs after 1 year as opposed to 2 in order to make up money in a more competitive market, or 2: it could be looked at as they don't want to eat the repair cost beyond 1 year because they know it's quality represents what they could build it for and still sell it in todays more competitive market. In the next 7 days I'm buying but I'm stuck between a used SP4805 or a new IN72. When you factor in the fact that the IN72 will be Brand NEW, along with a few improvements I feel like I'm only paying $200 more for the IN72(if I get it for $999 at $1,099 probably makes it a no deal, still waiting on AVS powerbuy info), but if the IN72 has cheaper parts ie the 1 year warranty then it doesn't look like it's worth the $400 more than a decent but not new SP4805. Pulling my hair out. david

I think it is case #1 - as factory warranty extensions are available if you want to insure against future repairs. The new platform is designed to be more reliable as far as fan, filters, and wheels go. The EX models (IN74EX) sold to local dealers get 2yrs warranty.
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post #3712 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:46 PM
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its an easy solder. The hardest part is getting the old cap off. Removing all solder without toasting the circuit board traces is key. Its pretty hard to screw up , but the danger of toasting a trace/lifting a solder pad is still there. I would HIGHLY recomend splugring the $4 for a solder braid at rat shack. To remove solder, place the wick on top of the solder joint at the bottom of the board, and heat the braid. The braid will suck up the solder. The braid will become saturated as you suck up solder, so I would recomend cutting the end off every so often so you have fresh braid.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ja Phule View Post

There isn't a "standard" color wheel that you can get to replace between projectors, as every manufacturer creates their own color wheel and optimize their projectors to use their wheel. If you want to replace your color wheel you will most likely need to do it through Infocus.

Thanks for answering.....I realize that it has to be a infocus 4805 color wheel probably from infocus. I've read all the threads in the 2nd 4805 thread and dont rem if anyone had changed it themself or if its something that infocus has to do. I picked up a used 4805 for my brother-in-law for his birthday,as I know he could never afford one and he just loves mine, and it turns out where the color wheel is making a high pitch whining noise. I removed the top cover and it didn't apear to be to hard to get at but don't know if there is some special timing that has to be performed that only infocus tech can perform. If so have you ever heard approx. how much it costs? Again thanks for replying.....new to the forums....but love the reading
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post #3714 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:51 PM
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this hasnt been reviewed by anyone, so use at your own risk. Im not responsible if you house your equipment and/or kill yourself .


Capacitor Replacement Word Doc
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post #3715 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 12:56 PM
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For those new to soldering - remember there is a hot part and cold part to a soldering gun. It gets hot enough to melt solder - experienced solderers already know what burnt flesh smells and feels like - but sometimes that is what it takes to learn what the hot and cold parts are....
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What type and wattage soldering gun is everyone using on this? My gf bought me a Coleman "Cold Heat" unit a while back, but I don't trust it for something this important, particularly because of the arcing issue and the lack of precision. It works great on other things, but...

I saw a 30 watt gun at RatShack for $7. Will that one be good enough or do I need the 100 watt super-deluxe, dual hot special that runs about 30? The choices are here:

http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...oldering%20gun
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post #3717 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 01:54 PM
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I used a 20 watt iron, and Id stay away from guns. Id think the 100 watt iron might be an overkill. Higher wattage guns for soldering of circuitry increase the risk of toasing your board (although youd REALLY have to try to toast the D1 board) . Id say anything over 15watts is fine, as long as you have a fine tip point. Alot of the guns have points for soldering much larger components. I used to own the RATSHACK 15W/30W dual soldering iron. It worked well for about a month, then crapped out. Im using a 20 watt weller, it was $17, but I think its great. The Coleman might be fine , I took a look at a review of the unit here , and I think it should be alright. Id say give it a try, and make sure you use sold desoldering braid, before you go out and make another purchase.
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post #3718 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder696969 View Post

What type and wattage soldering gun is everyone using on this? My gf bought me a Coleman "Cold Heat" unit a while back, but I don't trust it for something this important, particularly because of the arcing issue and the lack of precision. It works great on other things, but...

I saw a 30 watt gun at RatShack for $7. Will that one be good enough or do I need the 100 watt super-deluxe, dual hot special that runs about 30?

I used a 15 watt Radio Shack iron for doing mine. I prefer a lower wattage so as not to damage sensitive electronics. A 30 watt should be fine for this project. I suggest you do a google search on how to solder. You can get a poor or cold joint if you do not solder properly. Good luck!
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post #3719 of 8123 Old 03-26-2006, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mprover View Post

this hasnt been reviewed by anyone, so use at your own risk. Im not responsible if you house your equipment and/or kill yourself .


Capacitor Replacement Word Doc

"The GeoCities web site you were trying to view has temporarily exceeded its data transfer limit. Please try again later."

Can you host it anywhere else?

"If you're not passing anyone, get the hell out of the passing lane!"
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You can right-click the hyperlink and select 'Save As'
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