The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread. - Page 136 - AVS Forum
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post #4051 of 8123 Old 04-06-2006, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennan View Post

happens in the DVD menus or when I'm watching a lower-res image like a TV series... or the lower-res documentary extras on the discs. horribly "herky jerky" every time the camera panned or zoomed in or out. During the movie, though, I never noticed it. Nor did I notice it while watching Finding Nemo or Toy Story 1 + 2.

Would changing the refresh rate to 59.94Hz or 71.928Hz possibly fix this problem?

ur on the right track....
Film is shot at 24fps--------and Video is 30fps
both are played back at double so 48fps and 60fps (actually 47.95 & 59.94)

For the best PQ what i do with the Momitsu is Custom DVI 854x480@47.95hz
and for Video Playback just switch to the 480p setting (that way keeps ur Custom#s)
if U have a Bravo D1 you can switch to a pre-set 852x480@60hz
if u really watch a lot of VIDEO and get tired of switching---854x480@59.94hz
will work for BOTH because the original DVD is already doing 3:2 pull-down (TeleCine)

CUSTOM DVI resolution #s for 854x480@59.94

HorizFreq----29790-----VertFreq------5994
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0497-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0013
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000


the 72hz Custom DVI Resolution #s are OK for FILM (less RBE/RainBow Effect)
but won't help with the VIDEO playback (not a multiple of 30)
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post #4052 of 8123 Old 04-06-2006, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouw View Post

ur on the right track....
Film is shot at 24fps--------and Video is 30fps
both are played back at double so 48fps and 60fps (actually 47.95 & 59.94)

For the best PQ what i do with the Momitsu is Custom DVI 854x480@47.95hz
and for Video Playback just switch to the 480p setting (that way keeps ur Custom#s)

Hate to ask a newbie question, but how do I do that? The only way I pulled up the custom settings on my Momitsu was by pulling up the "secret menu". Once I switch to 480p, how do I get back to the custom settings? I don't see anything in my picture resolution options that says "custom".


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouw View Post

if u really watch a lot of VIDEO and get tired of switching---854x480@59.94hz
will work for BOTH because the original DVD is already doing 3:2 pull-down (TeleCine)

This might be the option for me. Lately I've been watching a lot of video, Batman: The Animated Series, (the new) Battlestar Galactica, Arrested Development, Firefly, Buffy, Moonlighting, along with a lot of movie watching. Switching back and forth wouldn't be a HUGE pain to me, though, if it was just a matter of going into the Setup menu and making a switch.

What would be the DISADVANTAGE of putting the custom setting at 59.94hz??? Would there be a loss in the picture quality when I am looking at a film (as compared to 47.95hz)???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouw View Post

CUSTOM DVI resolution #s for 854x480@59.94

HorizFreq----29790-----VertFreq------5994
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0497-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0013
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000


the 72hz Custom DVI Resolution #s are OK for FILM (less RBE/RainBow Effect)
but won't help with the VIDEO playback (not a multiple of 30)

Thanks for the custom settings! I'll give them a try and see how I like the picture.

If I get my hands on the figures, I may try 72hz, but I have a suspicion that the rainbow effect will really bother my eyes. I have no way of knowing for sure, until I try it. But my eyes are very sensitive to computer monitor flicker at low refresh rates -- I see the flicker and it gives me a headache even when no one else around me can see it. So something tells me that I'd see the rainbow effect. FYI, I don't think I've seen it on my projector up until now... and my 4805 has never given me a headache, but other projectors have.

I think I'll compare the 59.94hz with 47.95hz (and switching to 480p when I'm watching video) and see which one I like more.
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post #4053 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ja Phule View Post

I believe at 72hz, the 4805's color wheel will slow down from 4x to 3x and can produce more rainbows.

The colour wheel is still faster at 72Hz/3x (90%) than at 48Hz/4x (80%) although slower than at 60Hz/4x (100%).

So ... 72Hz is probably the best choice for film-based DVDs, assuming the projector will handle it (the SP4805 does but, IIRC, the IN72 doesn't).

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post #4054 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 12:20 AM
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Another embarrasing newbie question... I already lost my notes on how to get to the custom settings menu. How do I do that again, so that I can try the different refresh rates???

(I was thinking it was the "down,up,down,up,right,left" secret menu, but all that does is allow you to change the region setting to "0", etc.)
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post #4055 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennan View Post

Once I switch to 480p, how do I get back to the custom settings? I don't see anything in my picture resolution options that says "custom".

right...just move the cursor to the middle window (it will say DVI 480p)
enter 9713 (u should now see ur last Custom #s) press SETUP

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennan View Post

What would be the DISADVANTAGE of putting the custom setting at 59.94hz??? Would there be a loss in the picture quality when I am looking at a film (as compared to 47.95hz)???

follow the URL i gave u....3:2 pull-down (TeleCine)
good eXplanation of everything u always wanted to know about Displays/Playback

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennan View Post

If I get my hands on the figures, I may try 72hz

ur lucky day....854x480@71.93hz

HorizFreq----36036-----VertFreq------7193
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0501-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0017
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000
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post #4056 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 12:26 AM
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Thanks a million, Mouw !!!!!!

I'll do some comparing tomorrow night. I'm going to bed now. It's getting pretty late for me.
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post #4057 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

The colour wheel is still faster at 72Hz/3x (90%) than at 48Hz/4x (80%) although slower than at 60Hz/4x (100%).

So ... 72Hz is probably the best choice for film-based DVDs, assuming the projector will handle it (the SP4805 does but, IIRC, the IN72 doesn't).

Michael,
I'm not following you, what does the 4805 do that the IN72 doesn't?

While I have your attention, is there a way with the D1 to have two different custom settings to switch between film and tv sources or will the 480p setting work fine for the tv sources?

Also, to make sure one last time, does the IN72 need the gains/offsets tweaked like the 4805 did?

Luck all,
George
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post #4058 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bub View Post

I'm not following you, what does the 4805 do that the IN72 doesn't?

I don't believe the IN7x boxes do 72Hz - my memory is poor but I think BobW stated that back some ways.
Quote:
is there a way with the D1 to have two different custom settings to switch between film and tv sources

Set the "Custom Setting" up for 72Hz (or 48Hz) for film and switch to the preset 852x480@60Hz setting for video DVDs.
Quote:
does the IN72 need the gains/offsets tweaked like the 4805 did?

My new AVS Power Buy IN76** isn't here yet for me to attest to it, but I understand that it will auto-detect the source and/or there is a software toggle in the menu system. Hence, BobW hasn't provided any magic numbers because they aren't needed. Kras? JaPhule? BobW?

** I need a new toy to play with so I am going to swing the '76 under my 4805 and use both.

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post #4059 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennan View Post

Any particular reason(s) why this would work better for me?

The only reason I ask is that both my DVD player AND my computer currently have DVI outs, but not HDMI. And all my cabling that I already have is DVI. I've already spent a small fortune recently... ... and don't look forward to buying MORE cables and MORE adapters.

Thanks!

HDMI is new technology and since cables and adapters are available for HDMI->M1 and HDMI -> DVI, it may work out cheaper depending on your cable run to invest in a HDMI switch than the DVI switch since the price difference of the DVI switch can cover the cost of the adapters and new cables. That's just my reasoning since monoprice does not have DVI switches and I don't know of anywhere where the price can beat the HDMI switches offered by monoprice. Just my humble opinion of what I would do in your situation.

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post #4060 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 08:43 AM
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I just got my 4805 yesterday and temporarily set it up with my old dvd player and pointed it on a tan wall with Finding Nemo and the picture was very impressive. Today I am going to mount it to the ceiling and mount the diy screen. The question I have is about the various cables I will need. I plan on hooking the HD cable box up via component cables and later when I get a new dvd player I will hook it up to the MI port. So how do I hook up my PS2? Should hook it up via S-cable? I'm trying to make using the system as easy as possible I don't want the kids to have to switch cables everytime they want to play the PS2. Do you guys have an alternative that would get better results? I will be ordering my cables today.

Craig
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post #4061 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

HDMI is new technology and since cables and adapters are available for HDMI->M1 and HDMI -> DVI, it may work out cheaper depending on your cable run to invest in a HDMI switch than the DVI switch since the price difference of the DVI switch can cover the cost of the adapters and new cables. That's just my reasoning since monoprice does not have DVI switches and I don't know of anywhere where the price can beat the HDMI switches offered by monoprice. Just my humble opinion of what I would do in your situation.

Thanks for your opinion! I thought that you might know something inherently bad about DVI switchers or something. You may not be aware of it, but HDMI cables are very expensive, compared with DVI. And since I already have the DVI cables I need, I think I'll stick with DVI.

Unless, that is, someone has more information for me on the subject of DVI switchers or the specific make & model I'm looking at, the 4x1 DVI switcher "DRM-1714F".........
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post #4062 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Bennan View Post

You may not be aware of it, but HDMI cables are very expensive, compared with DVI.

Hmmm.....3ft DVI->HDMI cable is $3.48 each and HDMI->DVI-D adapter is $4.97 each. Since you have DVI cables already, that is all you need. Not sure where very expensive comes in when dealing with monoprice.com quality and prices unless you think you need Monster brand or something which is all just hype.

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post #4063 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atwater27 View Post

I just got my 4805 yesterday and temporarily set it up with my old dvd player and pointed it on a tan wall with Finding Nemo and the picture was very impressive. Today I am going to mount it to the ceiling and mount the diy screen. The question I have is about the various cables I will need. I plan on hooking the HD cable box up via component cables and later when I get a new dvd player I will hook it up to the MI port. So how do I hook up my PS2? Should hook it up via S-cable? I'm trying to make using the system as easy as possible I don't want the kids to have to switch cables everytime they want to play the PS2. Do you guys have an alternative that would get better results? I will be ordering my cables today.

Craig

Well some PS2 games can ouput 480p widescreen however that only works over component... assuming you can bear to live without that you can just go SVIDEO for ease of use.

However a component switching receiver or a component switch box might be a good idea....

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post #4064 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 10:23 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atwater27 View Post

I just got my 4805 yesterday and temporarily set it up with my old dvd player and pointed it on a tan wall with Finding Nemo and the picture was very impressive. Today I am going to mount it to the ceiling and mount the diy screen. The question I have is about the various cables I will need. I plan on hooking the HD cable box up via component cables and later when I get a new dvd player I will hook it up to the MI port. So how do I hook up my PS2? Should hook it up via S-cable? I'm trying to make using the system as easy as possible I don't want the kids to have to switch cables everytime they want to play the PS2. Do you guys have an alternative that would get better results? I will be ordering my cables today.

Craig

Unless you have a receiver that does component upconversion for all sources or at least 2 assignable component ins for your cable and PS2 (if you have component cables for it), then the way you are talking about is likely the easiest and only way. It's not hard, just a matter of hitting the "source" button on the 4805 remote. If you absolutely don't want your kids messing with the remote, a receiver that does component conversion isn't that much right now since ones with hdmi are starting to take off.
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post #4065 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennan View Post

But I still occasionally notice the stutter I am describing....
For example, I was TRYING to watch the extras on my Fifth Element: Ultimate Edition disc and they were UNWATCHABLE, horribly "herky jerky" every time the camera panned or zoomed in or out. During the movie, though, I never noticed it. Nor did I notice it while watching Finding Nemo or Toy Story 1 + 2.

One must understand the downside to 48Hz/72Hz. This is used to match the referesh rate of the projector/wheel with that of film - so that it is judder free on pans just like the theater. The downside is that video sources like extras and menus will drop frames - it has to by design since video gets played back at 60Hz.

You must decide if video stutter is worse than film judder - as changing the refresh rate with the source is not really practical to resync.

The only solution is projection that can do 120Hz - which covers both film and video smoothly.
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post #4066 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 10:30 AM
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Hey Guys!!

I've been lurkin' around here for quite a while and I've learned a WHOLE lot from this forum(Thanks), and from the Infocus Evaluations.

Well, I just bought a used 4805 on Ebay from a guy who claimed he had used it himself til the bulb had recently burned out.

The guy had a perfect feedback rating and seemed quite honorable. And I got it pretty cheap.

I figure it could be 2 years old max, I'll get a new Lamp, and for a few hundred bucks I'll have a good projector with a new bulb.

So I got it today, and sure enough, the bulb was blown. There was actually broken glass inside the case. So I opened up the case, got out all the glass, and blew out all the dust.

What I need to know from one of you 4805 Experts is what the projector should be doing when you try to power it up without the blown bulb and housing. (Before I invest in a new lamp)

I plugged it in, switched it on and this is what it did.

It beeps, the green light on top flashes, and the color wheel starts to spin.

The fans don't spin.

After several seconds the color wheel stops and the green light continues to flash.

This repeats 6 times total and then the light starts blinking red and the color wheel doesn't start to spin anymore

Does this sound like normal behavior under the circumstances?

Is the projector trying to detect the lamp several times and then gives up?

Should the fans spin, or are they temperature controlled?

Should I get the new lamp?

Thanks for your help.

Tim
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post #4067 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 10:51 AM
 
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From my understanding, the fans should spin, regardless of bulb or not.
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post #4068 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 11:47 AM
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I figured out that the fans weren't running because I had the lamp door off. Doh!!

When I pushed in on the little door switch the fan on the lens side runs. I'll have to assume that the one on the lamp side is temp controlled, which seems reasonable.

The fan on the lens side is probably to cool the cpu and stuff, so it would run on power up.

The Red light's blinking once, so it's probably just the lamp, which is good news.

Anyway, I guess I'll buy a lamp and see what happens.

Tim
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post #4069 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

Unless you are using a very wide bandwidth CRT-based display with no integral scaler, or a digital display with an extremely bad scaling circuitry (which is very rare), "upscaling" is a crock! Mass market BS.


Well, I have to disagree. I definitely see an improvement using my DVD player in 720p and 1080i mode. Here is my setup:

LG LDA-531 (HDCP disabled)
30ft component cable
Infocus 4805 (of course )

The improvement is noticeable to the naked eye on regular movie content, and verifiable with the test patterns on DVE:

The horizontal B&W resolution pattern is better defined, and the horizontal colour resolution pattern is a LOT better defined.

Jaggies on titles and credits are minimized due to the upsampling/downsampling (kind of like anti-aliasing on a PC, I guess).

A friend of mine also noticed an improvement using the LG DVD player on a large plasma TV.

The one downside on this particular DVD player is that, in 1080i, fast moving images tend to loose some detail. I have not noticed this in 720p.

I cannot explain why the picture is better (maybe the upsampling part of the DVD player was better designed than the standard part?!?), but it definitely IS better.

So I recommend that anyone who is curious try it for themselves - don't discount it just because someone else didn't notice or get any improvement in picture quality.
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post #4070 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbenne00 View Post

Well, I have to disagree. I definitely see an improvement using my DVD player in 720p and 1080i mode. Here is my setup:

LG LDA-531 (HDCP disabled)
30ft component cable
Infocus 4805 (of course )

The improvement is noticeable to the naked eye on regular movie content, and verifiable with the test patterns on DVE:

The horizontal B&W resolution pattern is better defined, and the horizontal colour resolution pattern is a LOT better defined.

Jaggies on titles and credits are minimized due to the upsampling/downsampling (kind of like anti-aliasing on a PC, I guess).

A friend of mine also noticed an improvement using the LG DVD player on a large plasma TV.

The one downside on this particular DVD player is that, in 1080i, fast moving images tend to loose some detail. I have not noticed this in 720p.

I cannot explain why the picture is better (maybe the upsampling part of the DVD player was better designed than the standard part?!?), but it definitely IS better.

So I recommend that anyone who is curious try it for themselves - don't discount it just because someone else didn't notice or get any improvement in picture quality.

Also you have to consider that "better" is subjective. Many people who argue it can't be better are arguing that no real detail can be added to a picture. However just like some people will prefer a brighter picture even though it techinically crushes whites and has an untrue black, some people will like the effect the rescaling can have.

As I said a few pages back, upconverting can help get rid of jaggies on diagonal lines, but as with anything there is a trade off. Simple shapes will benefit because it's easy to guess what they would look like in higher detail but complex soft shapes will loose clarity. If you don't notice this or it doesn't look bad to you then indeed it will look better.

Try looking at something on a SD channel and looking at the same thing on an HD channel that just upscales it (ESPN does this with a lot of sports shows) this is an exagerated version of upscaling and downscaling: ESPN takes the original 480i picture, upscales it to 1080i, and then it's downscaled again to 480p for your projector.

I personally don't like the effect, however there are definitely times when the HD rescaled picture seems better than the standard pic, but then other times it's really ugly.

A good upscaling DVD player is working with much better original material to scale so the artifacts shouldn't be as noticeable but it's the same basic thing happening...

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post #4071 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 06:47 PM
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I'm still back on page 103, so I haven't actually reached your comments yet

I haven't noticed anything on screen loosing any clarity, and I am extremely picky about my picture quality. I will have to watch a few more movies to see if there's anything unpleasant about the upscaled/downscaled image.

The test patterns on Digital Video Essentials clearly demonstrate that, somehow, more detail is ending up on my screen - the fine coloured lines fade away to nothing in 480i and 480p, but remain solid and well defined in 720p, and 1080i. This is one thing that is not subjective , but I do agree that 'better' is a matter of personal opinion. All the more reason for people to try stuff out for themselves to see if they like it.

As a side note, I'm not sure I'm happy with this newest firmware. As others have already noted, there seems to be a softness to the picture that wasn't there before. It is smoother, and has less of that digital edginess to it, but the lack of detail is very noticeable.

So my choice seems to be between:
Old firmware - sharp detailed picture with 'waterfall' (faint rolling bars)
New firmware - soft, less detailed picture that is very clean


How long until the next firmware release?!?
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post #4072 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 07:02 PM
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[quote=

So my choice seems to be between:
Old firmware - sharp detailed picture with 'waterfall' (faint rolling bars)
New firmware - soft, less detailed picture that is very clean


How long until the next firmware release?!?[/QUOTE]

after i downloaded the new firmware i haven,t seen this softness to the pic, the new firmware from what i can see got rid of the pulse or flicker through the pic in dark scenes with no softness for a trade off that i can see. maybe i,m missing something here , i can,t see the softness in the pic mentioned...

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post #4073 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbenne00 View Post

I'm still back on page 103, so I haven't actually reached your comments yet

I haven't noticed anything on screen loosing any clarity, and I am extremely picky about my picture quality. I will have to watch a few more movies to see if there's anything unpleasant about the upscaled/downscaled image.

The test patterns on Digital Video Essentials clearly demonstrate that, somehow, more detail is ending up on my screen - the fine coloured lines fade away to nothing in 480i and 480p, but remain solid and well defined in 720p, and 1080i. This is one thing that is not subjective , but I do agree that 'better' is a matter of personal opinion. All the more reason for people to try stuff out for themselves to see if they like it.

As a side note, I'm not sure I'm happy with this newest firmware. As others have already noted, there seems to be a softness to the picture that wasn't there before. It is smoother, and has less of that digital edginess to it, but the lack of detail is very noticeable.

So my choice seems to be between:
Old firmware - sharp detailed picture with 'waterfall' (faint rolling bars)
New firmware - soft, less detailed picture that is very clean


How long until the next firmware release?!?

I somehow doubt we will see much in the way of future firmwares... the latest one has addressed most of the major issues (they tried to fix them even if they didn't actually for some). What with the new line of PJs comming out I wouldn't hold out too much hope for more support.

That being said I would love to see a new firmware that turns the internal fan entirely off after an hour or so... no point in it running even if it doesn't take much power. After all electricity prices are always going up...

Monster Gold Plated Optical Cables: http://monstercable.com/productPage.asp?pin=1263

Awesome user review: "Unreal quality. Sounded like I upgraded my speakers." :D
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post #4074 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

The colour wheel is still faster at 72Hz/3x (90%) than at 48Hz/4x (80%) although slower than at 60Hz/4x (100%)...

What exactly is "x" in "3x" and "4x"? Is "x" a variable or a fixed constant? Is the color wheel motor speed (in RPMs) fixed or variable?

joe
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post #4075 of 8123 Old 04-07-2006, 11:59 PM
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My 4805 had been working fine for the last 4 months. I've been using it connected to:

1) M1-DVI to HTPC
2) Component to Cable box(HD).

Suddenly today, the PJ refuses to see any video signal on either component or DVI!! (says searching...)
I've tried autoimage, powering on/off the PJ, and even factory reset. It still refuses to see video signal on Componet or DVI.

So, I tried connecting (not present earlier) Composite, and M1-VGA, and both work.

I have tried going back to Component and DVI, and neither work still.

I hope the PJ's component and DVI inputs didn't get disabled/fried.. I can't see how any weird signal/spike could've gone into these two video inputs. The power connection also goes through a UPS+surge protector.

It's like it executed a "disable currently connected inputs" instruction sometime after I last shut it down??

What's happening ? Was this seen before by others? I'm out of the 90day refurb warranty period, and don't like this one bit.. Hoping for a "RTFM" kind of simple fix..
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post #4076 of 8123 Old 04-08-2006, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbenne00 View Post

I'm still back on page 103, so I haven't actually reached your comments yet

I haven't noticed anything on screen loosing any clarity, and I am extremely picky about my picture quality. I will have to watch a few more movies to see if there's anything unpleasant about the upscaled/downscaled image.

The test patterns on Digital Video Essentials clearly demonstrate that, somehow, more detail is ending up on my screen - the fine coloured lines fade away to nothing in 480i and 480p, but remain solid and well defined in 720p, and 1080i. This is one thing that is not subjective , but I do agree that 'better' is a matter of personal opinion. All the more reason for people to try stuff out for themselves to see if they like it.

As a side note, I'm not sure I'm happy with this newest firmware. As others have already noted, there seems to be a softness to the picture that wasn't there before. It is smoother, and has less of that digital edginess to it, but the lack of detail is very noticeable.

So my choice seems to be between:
Old firmware - sharp detailed picture with 'waterfall' (faint rolling bars)
New firmware - soft, less detailed picture that is very clean


How long until the next firmware release?!?

I haven't noticed any difference between the sharpness on the old/new firmwares. I believe someone mentioned the sharpness setting at 480i actually affected ALL the settings, maybe try adjusting that and see if it makes any difference.

But in my own way, I am King. Hail to the King, baby.

My Networked Media/Music/DVD Server
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post #4077 of 8123 Old 04-08-2006, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foobart View Post

My 4805 had been working fine for the last 4 months. I've been using it connected to:

1) M1-DVI to HTPC
2) Component to Cable box(HD).

Suddenly today, the PJ refuses to see any video signal on either component or DVI!! (says searching...)
I've tried autoimage, powering on/off the PJ, and even factory reset. It still refuses to see video signal on Componet or DVI.

So, I tried connecting (not present earlier) Composite, and M1-VGA, and both work.

I have tried going back to Component and DVI, and neither work still.

What's happening ?? I hope the PJ's component and DVI inputs didn't get disabled/fried.. I can't see how any weird signal/spike could've gone into these two video inputs. The power connection also goes through a UPS+surge protector.

It's like it executed a "disable currently connected inputs" instruction sometime after I last shut it down??

What's happening ? Was this seen before by others? I'm out of the 90day refurb warranty period, and don't like this one bit.. Hoping for a "RTFM" kind of simple fix..

Doesn't sound too good....Try your luck with different dvi/component sources or even different cables.

But in my own way, I am King. Hail to the King, baby.

My Networked Media/Music/DVD Server
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post #4078 of 8123 Old 04-08-2006, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkim5453 View Post

What exactly is "x" in "3x" and "4x"? Is "x" a variable or a fixed constant? Is the color wheel motor speed (in RPMs) fixed or variable?

1x = 3600rpm (3 color 3panel color wheel)
2x = 3600rpm (3 color 6panel color wheel -- 2 each)
4x = 7200rpm (3 color 6panel color wheel -- 2 each)

coincidently the Older Hard Drives also spun at 3600rpm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Williams View Post

Well, as with all features there are some tradeoffs. To preserve colorwheel life, for refresh rates of 62 Hz and higher the color wheel speed drops to 3x, so for instance at 72 Hz the color wheel is spinning at 3x or 6480 rpm. This is in between the speeds for 48 and 60 Hz. At 60 Hz it is spinning at 4x or 7200 rpm and at 48 Hz it spins at 4x or 5760 rpm.

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post #4079 of 8123 Old 04-08-2006, 12:55 AM
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Well, thankfully it did turn out to be an RTFM kind of problem, even though I'd like to believe that I'm not really that dumb

Sometime after I last used the Cablebox+PJ combination during my endless tweaks I had disconnected the component cable to the PJ at the cablebox.

By divine coincidence, the NVidia driver on my HTPC seems to have decided to disable the DVI output on the graphics card while keeping alive the VGA output even though it's supposed to be in "clone" mode. Must be some sort of default state it reset to .

After fixing both, the PJ is back in (full) business. Sort of a near-death experience.. I was forced to contemplate life without (atleast component/DVI inputs of) the PJ.


Quote:
Originally Posted by foobart View Post

My 4805 had been working fine for the last 4 months. I've been using it connected to:

1) M1-DVI to HTPC
2) Component to Cable box(HD).

Suddenly today, the PJ refuses to see any video signal on either component or DVI!! (says searching...)
I've tried autoimage, powering on/off the PJ, and even factory reset. It still refuses to see video signal on Componet or DVI.

So, I tried connecting (not present earlier) Composite, and M1-VGA, and both work.

I have tried going back to Component and DVI, and neither work still.

I hope the PJ's component and DVI inputs didn't get disabled/fried.. I can't see how any weird signal/spike could've gone into these two video inputs. The power connection also goes through a UPS+surge protector.

It's like it executed a "disable currently connected inputs" instruction sometime after I last shut it down??

What's happening ? Was this seen before by others? I'm out of the 90day refurb warranty period, and don't like this one bit.. Hoping for a "RTFM" kind of simple fix..

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post #4080 of 8123 Old 04-08-2006, 07:07 AM
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Where would I find a Component Switch box? That might be the way to go. I also looked on Monoproce and could not find the PS2 cable I need. Im lookng for a 9' S-video to PS2 connection. Thanks for all the help. Todays project is building a screen.
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