Help!!! Is my X1 dying...Yellow band on right side - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 125 Old 12-18-2005, 03:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I was wondering if any of you guys with Infocus X1 has had the same problem as I am having.

Over the last couple of months I have noticed a yellow band that runs across the entire right side of the image. At first it was very small, but over time it has grown to about 5% of the entire right side.

the best that I can describe it is that it is a yellowish tint that is transparent on the right side of the screen. I have cleaned the lens on the front, and have a fairly new bulb (only 200+ hours). This is apparent for all video inputs. I have somewhat been able to hide it by moving the horizontal position to the left, but then I miss some of the image.

I haven't called infocus yet to see what they say. It looks to be a pretty expensive fix if it is in the dmd chip. BTW, I have had this projector for about 2+ years and usually clean the filters regularly. I have taken it pretty far apart, but could not see any noticible problems.


I have attached some pics to show you the problem.

Cheers!!









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post #2 of 125 Old 12-18-2005, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh yeah...the other day I was at buffalo wild wings. They have about 6 infocus x1 that they show sports on. They had a couple that were experiencing the exact same problems as mine is.

I use this thing about 8 hours a day. I'm sure that BW3's uses it more. I am beginning to wonder if I have gotten all the goodie out of it.
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post #3 of 125 Old 12-18-2005, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billgatesceo View Post

Oh yeah...the other day I was at buffalo wild wings. They have about 6 infocus x1 that they show sports on. They had a couple that were experiencing the exact same problems as mine is.

I use this thing about 8 hours a day. I'm sure that BW3's uses it more. I am beginning to wonder if I have gotten all the goodie out of it.

Have you pulled out the lamp and made sure it is properly seated again? I think the housing could probably get twisted out of alignment, and possibly cause this problem. It can't hurt to try. It will give you an opportunity to clean the screen also.
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post #4 of 125 Old 12-18-2005, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I took the bulb out to see if it was seated correctly as suggested above, but to no avail it was in correct.

I did notice some burnt edges behind the color wheel on a piece that looks to be some sort of aperature for the light before it hits the dmd.

What do yall think?

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post #5 of 125 Old 12-20-2005, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I called Tech Support today. Of course my pj is out of warranty. The guy was really of no help in troubleshooting the problem or being able to say whether or not he has seen the problem before. Considering that I have witnessed 3 pj with the exact same problem, it would seem to me that infocus techs would have at least an idea as to what the problem is.

He did offer $100 trade-in for my X1.

Not too sure what to do...I just bought a new bulb a couple of months ago and that bulb won't fit a 4805. I could just try to sell the bulb, but might not get much. They have refurb'd 4805 at infocus for $729. So should I tradein my pj for the $100 and get the 4805, or keep the old one and try to fix it myself? Anyone ever taken an X1 down all the way to the light engine and take it apart? I work with LCDs for a living and can completely dissassemble one of those so I'm not too worried about the difficulty.
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post #6 of 125 Old 12-20-2005, 11:19 PM
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Maybe the colourwheel is getting discoloured and causing the triggering to be off , or something shifted in the optical assembly ,worth having a better look if infocus isnt willing to help (there might be a reason why they offered the trade in ,perhaps being an easy fix). By the sound of it though it does look like heat related.
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post #7 of 125 Old 12-21-2005, 12:31 PM
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I wonder if the 'burnt' can be wiped away with a QTip and rubbing alcohol. Look for the X1 colour wheel cleaning thread.
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post #8 of 125 Old 01-02-2006, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I decided to disect the X1 completely. I took it completely apart down to the individual components. I took the light engine completely apart down to the DLP chip.

What I discovered is that there is a piece made up of 4 tiny mirrors used as a light guide that goes between the color wheel, and a lens before it reaches into the light engine. These four pieces are glued together to make a rectangle pipe. It looks as if they became unglued and have shifted. this causes part of the DLP chip to receive a darker area and cause the problem. I am going to try and call tech support to see if they can privide a replacement mirror assembly.

If They won't I am up to trying to fab something my self. Any ideas? I have thought about a clear plexi light pipe.

Cheers!

Oh yeah, I tried to make them line up right without any glue and made the problem worse. I will post pics of the complete dissection laterz.





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post #9 of 125 Old 01-02-2006, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh yeah....Here are the four pieces that make up the light guide. I sent in the unit awhile ago to get the color wheel assembly replaced. It's almost like the screwed this piece up in the process. There was some pretty shady glue that should have been holding the pieces together.

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post #10 of 125 Old 01-02-2006, 09:08 PM
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Great photos. Very informative.
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post #11 of 125 Old 02-05-2006, 11:15 AM
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Any update on this? My 4805 just started doing the same thing.
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post #12 of 125 Old 02-05-2006, 01:23 PM
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SP4805 would still be under warranty. Don't even think about DIY on this one unless you have an unwarranted projector you do not mind using as a doorstop.
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post #13 of 125 Old 02-05-2006, 09:21 PM
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Do you have the pics of the complete dissection yet?

Thx.
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post #14 of 125 Old 02-06-2006, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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I will post the rebuild tonight!. Yeah, if it is still under warranty, don't take it apart.....if not, there really isn't too many parts to lose, and it is pretty easy to put back together.
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post #15 of 125 Old 07-17-2006, 03:24 PM
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I may be paranoid, but I think my 4805 may be starting this and would love to see your rebuild pics if you still have them. Your pictoral along with someone with some glass/glue knowledge could do well to after market this part.

Thanks for the usefual pics already and insight.
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post #16 of 125 Old 12-10-2006, 10:48 PM
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If you are unable to reassemble your current guide, or get a replacement from Infocus, do a google search for "light pipe homogenizer". Newport Corp. offers a variety of sizes.
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post #17 of 125 Old 06-13-2007, 06:31 AM
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so did you get it rebuilt...i have the same problem and it's killing me.
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post #18 of 125 Old 06-14-2007, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nogames56 View Post

so did you get it rebuilt...i have the same problem and it's killing me.

I rebuilt mine (4805) and it's working great! I made pictures as I took the PJ apart and rebuilt it. I actually took more apart than I needed to, so I'll try to edit out the ones that don't matter and make a step by step disassembly/fix/re-assembly by picture here in this thread in the next few days. I looked forever for something like that and couldn't find it, so I thought I'd make my own contribution here and do it for others having the same problem.
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post #19 of 125 Old 06-15-2007, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jikkme View Post

I rebuilt mine (4805) and it's working great! I made pictures as I took the PJ apart and rebuilt it. I actually took more apart than I needed to, so I'll try to edit out the ones that don't matter and make a step by step disassembly/fix/re-assembly by picture here in this thread in the next few days. I looked forever for something like that and couldn't find it, so I thought I'd make my own contribution here and do it for others having the same problem.

Please do! That would be great as I'm facing the same repair challenge as well.

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post #20 of 125 Old 06-16-2007, 08:19 PM
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Remove lamp cover and lamp before starting disassembly. Pull the connector out and take out the 2 screws that are circled, then pull the lamp out.



Take the 4 screws out of the bottom of the projector and pry the front cover off by using a flat blade that will fit into the vent slots on the front and undo the three clasps that I have circled (I used a thin screwdriver, but ended up breaking the clasp on the far right- as you can see). A small flashlight will help you find exactly where the clasps are.



Remove the screws from the back panel of the projector as indicated from the red circles. There are also 3 more clasps that will need to be undone. You can see me pretending to pry on one as I try to hold the camera steady enough to take the picture. The second picture shows the exact location of the clasps and the 2 wires (yellow boxes) that needs to be disconnected. *Note the projector is flipped in the second picture*





Remove the top cover of the projector. Remove the 2 screws numbered 1 & 2 in the following picture. CAREFULLY slide the metal plate up and out toward the front of the projector, making sure not to let it contact the color wheel while you are removing it. Remove screw #3 and just push the small circuit board out of the way to continue working- no need to disconnect the wiring. Undo screws 4, 5 and 6 (next picture) and slowly remove the cover from the lens assembly area. Ignore the fact that my lens assembly has been completely removed from the projector in the second picture. That is part of the overkill in my disassembly when I was trying to find the mirror. *This is a good time to clean the lens with compressed air if you are having dust blob problems*





The screws marked #1 & 1b in the next picture hold the color wheel in place. I would suggest getting a helper to hold the color wheel assembly out of the way after you remove these screws. Don't touch the wheel itself, just handle it by the cable or metal area. Remove screw #2 carefully as well. It holds the metal bracket in place that keeps the mirror seated. There is a second screw holding the bracket in place that will be revealed when the color wheel is out of the way. Unscrew that, remove the bracket (carefully) and there is your nemesis.





I used tweezers and Krazy Glue to fix the mirror (working fine now for over 2 months). In my case, only one side of one of the mirrors had come loose, so I just had to adjust it with the tweezers and apply a little glue to the outside edge to correct the problem. After you fix it, just reverse the steps and hopefully you will have a clear image again! I would suggest testing it before putting all the housing back together in case there is a problem (The lamp cover needs to be on for the PJ to work, though). The clasps are not easy to undo, and I had to go back in a second time to make an adjustment, which was a pain because I had everything completely back together.



YAY, all fixed!



Keep in mind, I went by memory on the details of the disassembly, so if I left out a screw to remove here or there I'm sorry, but it will be pretty obvious when you get there. The main thing is getting past the fear of opening your PJ, knowing where the mirror is and how to get to it, which I hope this tutorial helps you do.

Good luck!
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post #21 of 125 Old 06-17-2007, 10:32 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jikkme View Post

*This is a good time to clean the lens with compressed air if you are having dust blob problems*

Wow - what a great boon to X1ers! (and 4805ers) I had an X1 for 3+ years and loved it. It is now a backup to our Optoma HD70, just in case. And we're keeping to to put in the Home Theater when we sell our house.

I wanted to mention that it is my understanding that "dust blobs" are dust on the DMD chip (not the lens). They are usually put there by people who use compressed air to "clean out" their X1. We never had dust blobs. And I never used compressed air in our X1. I did use it on the filter once it was removed from the PJ. I cleaned the filters every 250 - 500 hours.
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post #22 of 125 Old 06-17-2007, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrano View Post

Wow - what a great boon to X1ers! (and 4805ers) I had an X1 for 3+ years and loved it. It is now a backup to our Optoma HD70, just in case. And we're keeping to to put in the Home Theater when we sell our house.

I wanted to mention that it is my understanding that "dust blobs" are dust on the DMD chip (not the lens). They are usually put there by people who use compressed air to "clean out" their X1. We never had dust blobs. And I never used compressed air in our X1. I did use it on the filter once it was removed from the PJ. I cleaned the filters every 250 - 500 hours.

There are a lot of people who have used compressed air on the lens (not the cover lens, but the larger lens that is revealed when you take off the front lens assembly or open up the top as I did to fix the light tube) and had success getting rid of the dust blobs. You do have to be careful and work in a "quiet" area, dust-wise. There are a few tutorials about that on this forum.
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post #23 of 125 Old 06-17-2007, 06:38 PM
 
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Yes. Many people have written that they have found dust blobs after using compressed air. The dust blobs are on the DMD chip, not the lens (inner or outer). This is what I have read here in the last 4 years. As I said I've never had dust blobs.

The X1 is not a sealed optics unit. (IDK about the 4805) Using compressed air to "clean" a PJ is usually not advised, even with a sealed optics unit. (I can see that once dust blobs are on the DMD chip one needs to take action.)
And, yes, you will find opinions on both sides of the argument.

I thought it was a good idea to warn people away from an activity that might cause problems. Just best to err on the side of caution.

Again - nice write-up on the mirror fix.
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post #24 of 125 Old 06-17-2007, 09:39 PM
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Thanks for the great pics and tutorial. Well done.

I have just one question. I understand that the "fuzzy yellow line" down the side of the picture is caused by one of the mirror walls starting to collapse in on the light tunnel. I've also read here that some of the folks who've tried this fix have had the light tunnel completely come apart and even break into pieces once they've removed the bracket that was holding it in.

My question is: once you've removed everything in your pictures EXCEPT the bracket holding the light tube in place, would it be smart to try to move that mirror wall back into its correct position and glue it without removing the holding bracket? Or would that be impossible to do with the bracket in place (I can't tell from the pictures)?

Seems to me if you could fix the wall without removing the bracket you'd be much less likely to have the thing fall apart on you.

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post #25 of 125 Old 06-18-2007, 03:02 PM
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You can't work on the mirror while it is in place because the bracket puts downward pressure on it and would definitely be in the way. I also read about the mirror falling apart, so I used extreme caution taking it out. I slid one of those mini screwdriver blades in and lifted it out and set it on the table with that. I never touched the mirror assembly with my hands, using a pair of tweezers and that screwdriver to prop and hold the mirror in place so I could glue it.
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post #26 of 125 Old 06-18-2007, 03:52 PM
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Thanks for that info. I'm sure I'll see exactly what you're talking about once I open mine up.

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post #27 of 125 Old 09-15-2007, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jikkme View Post

Remove lamp cover and lamp before starting disassembly. Pull the connector out and take out the 2 screws that are circled, then pull the lamp out.



Take the 4 screws out of the bottom of the projector and pry the front cover off by using a flat blade that will fit into the vent slots on the front and undo the three clasps that I have circled (I used a thin screwdriver, but ended up breaking the clasp on the far right- as you can see). A small flashlight will help you find exactly where the clasps are.



Remove the screws from the back panel of the projector as indicated from the red circles. There are also 3 more clasps that will need to be undone. You can see me pretending to pry on one as I try to hold the camera steady enough to take the picture. The second picture shows the exact location of the clasps and the 2 wires (yellow boxes) that needs to be disconnected. *Note the projector is flipped in the second picture*





Remove the top cover of the projector. Remove the 2 screws numbered 1 & 2 in the following picture. CAREFULLY slide the metal plate up and out toward the front of the projector, making sure not to let it contact the color wheel while you are removing it. Remove screw #3 and just push the small circuit board out of the way to continue working- no need to disconnect the wiring. Undo screws 4, 5 and 6 (next picture) and slowly remove the cover from the lens assembly area. Ignore the fact that my lens assembly has been completely removed from the projector in the second picture. That is part of the overkill in my disassembly when I was trying to find the mirror. *This is a good time to clean the lens with compressed air if you are having dust blob problems*





The screws marked #1 & 1b in the next picture hold the color wheel in place. I would suggest getting a helper to hold the color wheel assembly out of the way after you remove these screws. Don't touch the wheel itself, just handle it by the cable or metal area. Remove screw #2 carefully as well. It holds the metal bracket in place that keeps the mirror seated. There is a second screw holding the bracket in place that will be revealed when the color wheel is out of the way. Unscrew that, remove the bracket (carefully) and there is your nemesis.





I used tweezers and Krazy Glue to fix the mirror (working fine now for over 2 months). In my case, only one side of one of the mirrors had come loose, so I just had to adjust it with the tweezers and apply a little glue to the outside edge to correct the problem. After you fix it, just reverse the steps and hopefully you will have a clear image again! I would suggest testing it before putting all the housing back together in case there is a problem (The lamp cover needs to be on for the PJ to work, though). The clasps are not easy to undo, and I had to go back in a second time to make an adjustment, which was a pain because I had everything completely back together.



YAY, all fixed!



Keep in mind, I went by memory on the details of the disassembly, so if I left out a screw to remove here or there I'm sorry, but it will be pretty obvious when you get there. The main thing is getting past the fear of opening your PJ, knowing where the mirror is and how to get to it, which I hope this tutorial helps you do.

Good luck!

Thanks for all the great info. But could you please explain about the adjustment you had to make ( I had to go back in a second time to make an adjustment)? I also had just one of the four mirrors to fix, but after I completed the Operation I still had the same problem. Help.
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post #28 of 125 Old 09-15-2007, 07:32 AM
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Thanks for the detailed info and all the great pictures. I followed your instructions but still had the problem after everything was reassembled.
You mentioned something about going back a second time and making some adjustment. Please explain what these adjustment were all about. (I had to go back in a second time to make an adjustment,).
Thank you
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post #29 of 125 Old 10-05-2007, 08:04 PM
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Ok, what about if you break the light tube? I was following these instructions and while holding the 3 still attached pieces, I dropped it and cracked one of the pieces. Any options from here? It would suck to have to get rid of this thing (x2 but same problem) for a piece that is probably only worth a dollar or so.
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post #30 of 125 Old 11-26-2007, 12:25 PM
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Not to beat a dead horse - that's what my 4805 is starting to look like - but has anyone refined the light tube repair technique to the point where it works the first time? Or better yet, has anyone found a source for the part? I've given up on inFocus, they still claim to not know what I'm talking about.
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