Infocus IN72-IN74-IN76 - Page 143 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4261 of 4287 Old 03-28-2014, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Barnickal View Post

I could cry with joy and kiss you all! The upgrade worked! And all it cost me was £16 for the cable! Thank you , thank you, thank you!

Glad to hear it worked. Replacement parts for these are pretty scarce these days!
Dustin Marklow likes this.
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post #4262 of 4287 Old 04-11-2014, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Dustin Marklow View Post

. I just couldnt believe how easy it was... And I will say with the update pic is better and brighter then before.. again thank you all for ur help
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Originally Posted by BrettJB View Post

Glad to hear you're back in business, Dustin! Don't feel stupid, as it was a rather non-obvious solution.
Hey wanted to stop by and say that old girl is still kicking strong almost to 11,000 hrs have not touched hardware yet still and I repeat still on 1amp fuse. No flicker and on second bulb of unit. I would say I got a damn good unit. I mean it gets cleaned once a month riped down and soft brush and air. And added too fans with inlet filter. Lol. Have not forgot about u guys/gals. Thanks for everything again
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post #4263 of 4287 Old 04-17-2014, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post


Was this new lamp you purchased and OEM lamp or a knock off? If the box did not say Infocus and cost you about $300 it was a knock off and flicker, dimming, exploding and simple failure to light are all typical of these crap lamps.


I'm too cheap to buy those expensive InFocus brand lamps, but it is caveat emptor out there in places like Ebay. My first purchase of a naked in76 bulb from China was fine, but I installed it wrong and the insulation eventually burned off the wire after a couple of years. I had bought the in76 used, so I decided to buy a replacement bulb right away and keep the original as a backup.

 

For my next purchase, I was determined to buy the bulb complete with the housing, so I didn't have to take the housing apart and put it all back together like I did the first time.

 

I bought from a seller who advertized "Brand New, OEM Lamp, Taiwan Burner, Japan Material, Not re-lamping, Not a third party knockoff."  Sounds good, right?

 

It turns out the housing didn't fit into the projector well at all. The housing was not an exact match for the old housing. When I turned it on, the picture looked kind of fuzzy. When I took the housing back out and looked at it, the glass in front of the bulb had cracked and frosted over.

 

I wrote back to the Ebay seller and asked for a replacement glass. I didn't want to send the housing back because the lamp was O.K. and the shipping costs would have increased my costs to an unacceptable level.

 

After several emails and weeks went by with no replacement glass or any offer to compensate me, I gave the seller negative feedback, and he promptly responded with a cash rebate offer if I would remove the negative feedback. This was satisfactory to me.

 

I cannibalized the housing and put the new bulb in my old housing and used small parts of the old housing too, and it is still running fine after six months.

 

So far, I've been lucky, but It is a jungle out there for bulb buyers.

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post #4264 of 4287 Old 09-02-2014, 01:21 PM
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Wondering if anyone has experienced this issue, and if so, has any suggestions.

I have an InFocus IN72. Everything has been working fine until yesterday. I can no longer get any connection over the HDMI port. I've tried swapping out the HDMI cable and have tried different devices (2 Roku Boxes, computer, etc) and the projector won't connect to these devices using HDMI. Everything works fine if I try to connect something via S-Video or Composite/Component.

Any suggestions?
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post #4265 of 4287 Old 09-04-2014, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by MidnightSwinga View Post
Wondering if anyone has experienced this issue, and if so, has any suggestions.

I have an InFocus IN72. Everything has been working fine until yesterday. I can no longer get any connection over the HDMI port. I've tried swapping out the HDMI cable and have tried different devices (2 Roku Boxes, computer, etc) and the projector won't connect to these devices using HDMI. Everything works fine if I try to connect something via S-Video or Composite/Component.

Any suggestions?
Hi. I heard of some issues where the HDMI port goes bad due to a fault/failure on the controller board. Another option is to try the second HDMI socket via the M1-DA socket but you'll need to get a M1-DA to HDMI converter (see places like eBay). I assume you've tried the HDMI connected to a TV instead of the projector and that works? Also check you haven't disabled the HDMI input in the menus.
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post #4266 of 4287 Old 02-02-2015, 06:08 AM
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Question

I just made the mistake of shutting off all inputs to my IN76 projector, and once it auto powered down will not restart. Disassembled the unit, replaced the 250V fuse by the power cord, and still the same dead projector. The only sound I get is a quick high pitched sound when I plug in the unit, and a quick flicker of the power led, similar happens when plug comes out.

I am running firmware 2.5, and it wasn't until I read related posts in this forum that I realized I may have unknowingly run into the 1 input firmware bug.

I have ordered an M1-A to DVI/USB-A cable and crossing my fingers that the firmware upgrade to 2.9 will take in a Windows 7 environment. I read much of needing an xp notebook, but who has that around anymore? I am going to attempt to run the Infocus Flash software in "xp compatibility mode" at the very least.

More frustrating still is the fact that I have a simple M1 to Dvi adapter already, but the little attachment only sports a USB receptacle at the DVI end instead of a male end for some unknown reason. Making it utterly useless.

If anyone has any experience with the upgrade on a non xp machine, I would really appreciate some pointers about going about this.
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post #4267 of 4287 Old 02-02-2015, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Ramb04 View Post
I just made the mistake of shutting off all inputs to my IN76 projector, and once it auto powered down will not restart. Disassembled the unit, replaced the 250V fuse by the power cord, and still the same dead projector. The only sound I get is a quick high pitched sound when I plug in the unit, and a quick flicker of the power led, similar happens when plug comes out.

I am running firmware 2.5, and it wasn't until I read related posts in this forum that I realized I may have unknowingly run into the 1 input firmware bug.

I have ordered an M1-A to DVI/USB-A cable and crossing my fingers that the firmware upgrade to 2.9 will take in a Windows 7 environment. I read much of needing an xp notebook, but who has that around anymore? I am going to attempt to run the Infocus Flash software in "xp compatibility mode" at the very least.

More frustrating still is the fact that I have a simple M1 to Dvi adapter already, but the little attachment only sports a USB receptacle at the DVI end instead of a male end for some unknown reason. Making it utterly useless.

If anyone has any experience with the upgrade on a non xp machine, I would really appreciate some pointers about going about this.
Hi.

I tried this on Windows 7 and never got it work due to the device drivers completely changing in Windows Vista/7. I don't think Infocus ever updated theirs to support this. I gave up fairly quickly and ended up having to partition off my hard disk and set-up dual boot with Xp and Win7.

But saying this there is some stuff on here about it which could work:

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/w...7-061dba03968a

Another option is running XP Mode on Windows 7 (like running a Win XP Virtual Machine):

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-GB/w...e-in-windows-7

As I never tried this would be interesting to know if its possible and actually works.

Btw the fuse in question which people have changed is the one on the ballast board (in the middle under the metal cage/heatsink). I Think the one you mention is the filter board (where power cord plugs in) and normally that doesn't tend to blow.

But it sounds more like the firmware issue in your case given you hear a squeak from the power supply.

Alex.
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post #4268 of 4287 Old 02-02-2015, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by axlp View Post
Hi.

I tried this on Windows 7 and never got it work due to the device drivers completely changing in Windows Vista/7. I don't think Infocus ever updated theirs to support this. I gave up fairly quickly and ended up having to partition off my hard disk and set-up dual boot with Xp and Win7.

But saying this there is some stuff on here about it which could work:

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/w...7-061dba03968a

Another option is running XP Mode on Windows 7 (like running a Win XP Virtual Machine):

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-GB/w...e-in-windows-7

As I never tried this would be interesting to know if its possible and actually works.

Btw the fuse in question which people have changed is the one on the ballast board (in the middle under the metal cage/heatsink). I Think the one you mention is the filter board (where power cord plugs in) and normally that doesn't tend to blow.

But it sounds more like the firmware issue in your case given you hear a squeak from the power supply.

Alex.
Thanks, I'll look into the virtual machine aspect as it may be my only option. If it works, I'll post back here about the success.

I didn't realize there was another fuse onboard. I know I had the projector sent in to infocus a while back for a warranty issue (dead projector) and fuse replacement recall or something. The firmware was upgraded from 2.1 to the "then current" 2.5 at the time. I should have held onto the old ceramic fuse I guess. Probably nothing wrong with it. Replaced it with a glass slow blow 5A/250V one any how. That's before I heard about the software issue; I likely made more trouble for myself. Then cleaned the fans, etc, out with some compressed air.

I also read someone posting above had their projector recognize the software only when powering up holding both direction arrows simultaneously. I'll try that, as well, when I receive the cable if it's not automatically recognized.

I had just under 10000 hours on the current aftermarket replacement bulb. For the time being I'll likely stick the original in again if I get the in76 functioning, as it only had 3000 hrs on it when replaced when the warning appeared. Plenty of life left!
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post #4269 of 4287 Old 02-04-2015, 10:11 AM
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Thumbs up Fixed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by axlp View Post
Hi.

I tried this on Windows 7 and never got it work due to the device drivers completely changing in Windows Vista/7. I don't think Infocus ever updated theirs to support this. I gave up fairly quickly and ended up having to partition off my hard disk and set-up dual boot with Xp and Win7.

But saying this there is some stuff on here about it which could work:

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/w...7-061dba03968a

Another option is running XP Mode on Windows 7 (like running a Win XP Virtual Machine):

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-GB/w...e-in-windows-7

As I never tried this would be interesting to know if its possible and actually works.
I did it. I now have a working Projector again and accomplished on a Mac running Windows7 no less. Rebooted Mac into Windows 7 and right clicked the Infocus FlashUSBIII app and set it to run in WindowsXP compatibility mode, then started the program.

Connected the M1 to usb cable to projector and pc, and when loading the dld flash file, nothing showed up to Flash or Download in the app. Then read a previous post about holding down the two arrow keys while connecting the power cord and voila the familiar USB connection bloop sound emanated form the computer and the projector was recognized by the FlashUSBIII app and the Download button became selectable. Hit the download button in the app, and old firmware erased and new one downloaded after ten minutes; when update completed everything greyed out causing some worry, and then the fans came on shortly after and the lamp illuminated. Success.

Very happy, and thanks for the help.
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post #4270 of 4287 Old 09-04-2015, 08:50 AM
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I love that this thread still has some activity in 2015! I got my IN72 in 2006 and it's been working wonderfully since then (with 2 yrs in storage, so 7 yrs of use) - no bulb change or anything needed. Yesterday it finally died. No sign of life whatsoever. I read some threads that it's probably a blown fuse, but I have no knowledge or tools to replace something like that. Just wanted to say how much I loved this projector and how well it worked for so long, and I'm sorry to have to move on despite being also excited about a new HD model. Will it still feel like being at the movies or will the picture be too sharp? I can't stand seeing the news on HD tv since you see all the makeup and details on the closeup faces that are better left unseen. Can you dial back sharpness on the new pj models if it's like that? I'm thinking of the BenQ W1070 or HT1075. RIP IN72...
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post #4271 of 4287 Old 09-06-2015, 10:05 PM
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6 tries to fire lamp, and then blinking red light

having trouble with my Infocus IN72 originally installed in 2006. Ran it about 9800 hours on original lamp. Replaced lamp about 3 yrs ago, and ran about 4800 hrs on new one, then one day after working on unit to reconfigure an xbox out of the video setup, unit stopped displaying . turned it off for 15 min thinking it was overheating, but it continues to do same thing. Tried a new lamp, but it is still failing same way fans turn, whining sound for about 10 seconds trying to strike lamp, then goes back over that sequence 5 times and finally turns on blinking red light.

This seems to be the old ballast problem, but I look at ballast board, and see nothing burnt, and fuse is OK. Even put a jumper across fuse to make sure I was not reading some low resistance winding somewhere, but fails with fuse jumpered just the same.

Only odd thing is that there is something like white paint at the base of the big 270 uf cap in the middle of the board. The same paint shows up around two smaller caps that are just to the left of the 16 pin connector. I keep thinking leaky cap, but have never seen a cap leak something that looks like thick, dried up white paint.

Appreciate any ideas.
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post #4272 of 4287 Old 09-06-2015, 10:10 PM
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6 tries to light lamp and red blinking light

Just tried to attach a pic to the post above, but for some reason the attach did not take. Am I limited to picture size, or am i not allowed to post pics ?
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post #4273 of 4287 Old 09-06-2015, 10:19 PM
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6 tries to light lamp and red blinking light

Great, picture did attach in abobve post. caps with white paint like stuff are the large cap at top of picture just north of transformer like component, and two much smaller caps that can be seen at right side of picture surrounded by 6 dark blue caps. the "leaky ? " caps are a light blue one and a black one. I still think the stuff is something put on to prevent non-warranty work on board.

Any help is appreciated.
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post #4274 of 4287 Old 09-07-2015, 01:51 AM
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Great, picture did attach in abobve post. caps with white paint like stuff are the large cap at top of picture just north of transformer like component, and two much smaller caps that can be seen at right side of picture surrounded by 6 dark blue caps. the "leaky ? " caps are a light blue one and a black one. I still think the stuff is something put on to prevent non-warranty work on board.

Any help is appreciated.
Hi,

From what I remember I think that the white stuff is some sort of glue used during the manufacture process and think they all have it. I'd imagine if they were leaking you'd see them bulging/swollen. Also regarding the fuse if it had gone then the whole unit would be dead.

Given you've tried a new lamp it does indeed suggest an issue with the ballast. Unfortunately schematics for this board aren't available so you're kind of on your own. The only thing I can suggest is to look at capacitor C512, which again was a common problem. Before replacing it make sure you know its value as they changed it between the different revisions of the board (part number is on the label stuck on top of the heat sink). Failing that second hand part would be the next option.

Good luck.
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post #4275 of 4287 Old 09-10-2015, 09:55 PM
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Hi,

From what I remember I think that the white stuff is some sort of glue used during the manufacture process and think they all have it. I'd imagine if they were leaking you'd see them bulging/swollen. Also regarding the fuse if it had gone then the whole unit would be dead.

Given you've tried a new lamp it does indeed suggest an issue with the ballast. Unfortunately schematics for this board aren't available so you're kind of on your own. The only thing I can suggest is to look at capacitor C512, which again was a common problem. Before replacing it make sure you know its value as they changed it between the different revisions of the board (part number is on the label stuck on top of the heat sink). Failing that second hand part would be the next option.

Good luck.
Many thanks for the response. I'll have to pull the ballast board off the unit and also inspect the undersides of it, but it looks extremely clean except for the white paint goo on the caps. I'll have a look at C512 to see if it shows any problem. Heck of a way to try to fix electronic equipment without a schematic ! I guess they wanted to make sure their service dept make some $$$. My guess is the white paint stuff on the caps was some sort of attempt to stop people from doing non-warranty work on the prsts
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post #4276 of 4287 Old 09-12-2015, 07:06 PM
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Many thanks for the response. I'll have to pull the ballast board off the unit and also inspect the undersides of it, but it looks extremely clean except for the white paint goo on the caps. I'll have a look at C512 to see if it shows any problem. Heck of a way to try to fix electronic equipment without a schematic ! I guess they wanted to make sure their service dept make some $$$. My guess is the white paint stuff on the caps was some sort of attempt to stop people from doing non-warranty work on the prsts


Can't find an emoticon to show Happy Dance, but that is pretty much what I am doing right now. I reviewed the ballast board again and could see nothing obvious wrong with it, so cleaned the lamp connector contacts in preparation to check the lamp start voltage, and presto, the lamp came on. About the only thing different is that the brightness seems lower than with the other lamp (both aftermarket $65 lamps), but I'll take it !

Many thanks to all that offered suggestions. I hope I don't have to come back to write here again until the projector turns 15...that will be in 2021....Thanks again
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post #4277 of 4287 Old 11-10-2015, 12:18 AM
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Hey everyone, I've been referring to this thread for potential solutions to fixing my in76. Unfortunately, of the solutions I've attempted, nothing has seemed to really work.

For background, my in76 stopped working when I dropped something on the power button of the power strip that the projector was plugged into (while the projector was running). When I tried to power it on again, there didn't seem to be any noticeable result. I've tried numerous power power cords and different outlets, but the result remains the same. I opened up the projector, assuming that it'd be a problem with a fuse on the AC board. I checked the continuity of the fuse, and it was fine. While it was still open, I checked another fuse that people have had problems with (I believe it was the 250v 5a on the center board), and the continuity was also fine.

After reading some of the more recent posts, I decided to see if this was a software related problem (as I did only have a single input to the projector). Upon closer examination, I realized that when I did plug the power into the in76, that it spun its fans for a moment and the LED blinked red once. purchased an m1-D cable. Of course the second that I get the cable, I realize that the instructions with the USB Flash III tool say to use a m1-a cable. Despite this, the USB Flash tool recognized the device (however the SN field remained blank) and allowed me to go through the download process. However, after the download process there's no noticeable affect on my projector. So my first question, despite having gotten this far with the m1-d cable do I need and m1-a cable? Next question, does this even sound like a software problem? Or does it sound more like an electrical problem?

tl;dr Projector got turned off inadvertently. Now LED only blinks red once. Tried updating software with a cable (m1-d) not sure if I need a different one. Not even sure if its a software problem.

Thanks!
Charlie
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post #4278 of 4287 Old 02-12-2016, 03:06 AM
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Trying to resolve my problem is driving me crazy.

Bought an Infocus IN78EX that wasn't working. When I turned it on, I got the green flashing led that eventually turned to the red flashing once ever 2 seconds, usually lamp door or replace lamp. I have the service manual for the IN70 series projectors which covers all the models.

I bought a new lamp, same result. Color wheel spins, checked thermal sensor all ok. Upgraded firmware, no lamp strike.

Found a working Infocus IN72. Test lamp from IN78EX it was good, new lamp tested it was good. Took common working power supply, AC filter board and thermal sensor and switch from the IN72 and installed them in the IN78EX. I know that those parts are common to all IN70 series projectors. Same exact no lamp strike after 5 attempts single red flashing led.

I uninstalled the power supply AC filter and thermal sensor and switch back into the original IN72, now it is doing the same thing as the IN78EX with the single flashing red lamp won't strike. I even updated the firmware for the IN72 from 2.8 to 3.0. still no lamp strike.

Is there some thing I am just missing. I am pretty good at these kind of things. It seems from comments in AV forums that Infocus projectors go bad easily, maybe it is all projectors. Just can't figure out how if I take apart a working projector and put it back together, it doesn't work. Both the IN72 and 78EX ECA controller boards both took firmware updates without any problem.

I just don't get what is happening to cause this.
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post #4279 of 4287 Old 02-12-2016, 05:44 AM
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With all you replaced and swapped you said nothing about the Door switch. "usually lamp door or replace lamp" There is a micro switch that must be in the proper orientation (either open or closed depending on how the projector is designed) for the lamp to strike. This prevents the lamp from lighting if the door is not installed or installed correctly. You sure you plugged that back in on your previously working unit?

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post #4280 of 4287 Old 02-12-2016, 07:45 PM
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Thanks for replying. Yes the thermal sensor and door switch are connected. I also transplanted the good working projector thermal switch from the IN72 to the IN78EX, then put it back in the IN72. It worked before I installed it in the IN78EX.

I am starting to think that projectors are a scam built to malfunction. If a projector stops working everyone recommends getting a new lamp, then you get a new lamp and still doesn't work, then get a new power supply and ballast, when that doesn't work get a new controller board or color wheel.

Bottom line is if a projector is working and pull out the parts and reinstall them back into the same projector it should work. I have built a home-built computer and took and and put back in pci boards, memory, fans, power supply, ribbon cable, upgraded the processor and never had a problem with them functioning, but take an Infocus DLP projector with less parts and touch anything and they don't work.

This really has to be due to designed fallibility on the part of projector manufacturers. Thank God they aren't in the airplane or pacemaker business.

The only think I can fathom in my case is there is something not contacting or there is some rest that I have not come across. With no display I can't use the menu reset if resetting would fix it at all.

It all just doesn't make any sense.
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post #4281 of 4287 Old 08-24-2016, 10:35 AM
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I know this is a long shot, but here goes:

I have an IN76 that isn't working. When I try to power it on, I saw an image for a few seconds before it went dark. The red light over the power button was blinking 4 times. According to the troubleshooting guide, this indicates that one or both of the fans might not be working.

I opened the projector and both fans seem to be working. After powering down and trying again a few times, the red light now blinks only once, indicating that the lamp won't strike after 5 attempts and to check the lamp and lamp door installations for loose connections. I removed the lamp and reinstalled it, but no luck.

Also, when first powering the unit on, there was an electrical burning smell, but just upon initial power up.

The bulb is practically brand new, as the projector failed shortly after replacing the original lamp. I believe the replacement lamp was OEM. I bought it from Amazon for over $300 at the time, and the listing states INFOCUS as the manufacturer.

Any ideas as to what might be wrong and how to go about fixing it? I'd hate to get rid of the projector.

Thanks
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post #4282 of 4287 Old 08-26-2016, 01:14 AM
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I know this is a long shot, but here goes:

I have an IN76 that isn't working. When I try to power it on, I saw an image for a few seconds before it went dark. The red light over the power button was blinking 4 times. According to the troubleshooting guide, this indicates that one or both of the fans might not be working.

I opened the projector and both fans seem to be working. After powering down and trying again a few times, the red light now blinks only once, indicating that the lamp won't strike after 5 attempts and to check the lamp and lamp door installations for loose connections. I removed the lamp and reinstalled it, but no luck.

Also, when first powering the unit on, there was an electrical burning smell, but just upon initial power up.

The bulb is practically brand new, as the projector failed shortly after replacing the original lamp. I believe the replacement lamp was OEM. I bought it from Amazon for over $300 at the time, and the listing states INFOCUS as the manufacturer.

Any ideas as to what might be wrong and how to go about fixing it? I'd hate to get rid of the projector.

Thanks
HI. There are actually 3 fans the 2 big ones on the side and a smaller one next to the bulb to cool it. So worth checking the smaller one is working correctly. You can wire it up to say a 9v battery to check it's spinning ok.
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post #4283 of 4287 Old 08-26-2016, 12:33 PM
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HI. There are actually 3 fans the 2 big ones on the side and a smaller one next to the bulb to cool it. So worth checking the smaller one is working correctly. You can wire it up to say a 9v battery to check it's spinning ok.
Thanks.

Any thoughts about the single blinking red light that indicates failure to light the lamp after 5 attempts?
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post #4284 of 4287 Old 08-28-2016, 02:03 PM
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All three fans are working.

Red light now consistently only blinks once, indicating failure to light lamp after five attempts.

Any ideas?
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post #4285 of 4287 Old 08-28-2016, 02:35 PM
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Ok, I think I narrowed it down to a ballast board problem. One of the parts on the board was glowing red and smoking. 510-2111-00 is the part number.

Unfortunately, it seems that part is no longer available.

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post #4286 of 4287 Old 08-31-2016, 02:17 AM
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Ok, I think I narrowed it down to a ballast board problem. One of the parts on the board was glowing red and smoking. 510-2111-00 is the part number.

Unfortunately, it seems that part is no longer available.

Hi. There were some comon problems with the ballast which were fixable. The first was the fuse blowing, which doesn't seem the case here. The second was a capacitor which fails. I think it was C512 and can be replaced. So if you search this thread for C512 you should find lots of info on this.
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post #4287 of 4287 Old 09-02-2016, 07:20 AM
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Does anyone know where to buy the correct C512 capacitor for this projector?

I tried searching online, but there are so many different kinds.

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