InFocus 4805 (854x480) and Vinc. Bravo D1 Specific Thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 02:24 PM
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Does region zero = region free?

I rather get that if I can since I want to order some DVDs from the UK.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the current FUSS loader, the D1 is region free...right?

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post #362 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

Does region zero = region free?

I rather get that if I can since I want to order some DVDs from the UK.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the current FUSS loader, the D1 is region free...right?

If your D1 has the latest firmware...without any disc in the player, key in right, down, left, up, enter, then 1.

That'll get you to the region setting menu as well as the macrovision on/off option.

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post #363 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post

If your D1 has the latest firmware...without any disc in the player, key in right, down, left, up, enter, then 1.

That'll get you to the region setting menu as well as the macrovision on/off option.

OK, so if I get there why is it that I need to set the region in a PC first and would the PC allow me to set it to region zero?

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post #364 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

OK, so if I get there why is it that I need to set the region in a PC first and would the PC allow me to set it to region zero?

I'm not positive but some replacement drives that the modders have used for the D1 could not be set to region 0. Region 0 is TOTALY REGION FREE. Think I'll start mine tonight since I can't think of anything fun to do. Yes if you can get it to Region 0 on the PC you should be fine, not sure how to do that. It may also work with the D1 region free input above or it may not and you'd have to set on the PC somehow.
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post #365 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

I'm going to buy some Canada DVD's wich have about 25% more lines of resolution in them

I don't think so. Canada is NTSC, same as the States.

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post #366 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 03:15 PM
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Okay here we go...Liteon 167T right out of the computer works fine in the D1...put the 16P1S in computer set region to 1 played King Kong reinstalled in the Bravo D1...damn it!! same thing and I noticed the PQ on the computer and the bigscreen was not as good as the PQ with the 167T ...still testing...but it looks to me that the 167T is a better mousetrap...for the computer and the bravo D1.

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post #367 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwv651 View Post

Okay here we go...Liteon 167T right out of the computer works fine in the D1...put the 16P1S in computer set region to 1 played King Kong reinstalled in the Bravo D1...damn it!! same thing and I noticed the PQ on the computer and the bigscreen was not as good as the PQ with the 167T ...still testing...but it looks to me that the 167T is a better mousetrap...for the computer and the bravo D1.

This is disturbing since I DO NOT have a 167T

Maybe I should have ordered the loader from chiefvalue.com instead since clubit.com seems to have a myriad of incorrect information about a product.

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post #368 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

I don't think so. Canada is NTSC, same as the States.


I thought Canada was PAL @576p not a big deal to me. I guess thats Europe. Just need to find me some english dialogue PAL DVD's I don't care where they come from.

This has some decent knowledge in it.

http://www.michaeldvd.com.au/Article.../PALvsNTSC.asp
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post #369 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwv651 View Post

Okay here we go...Liteon 167T right out of the computer works fine in the D1...put the 16P1S in computer set region to 1 played King Kong reinstalled in the Bravo D1...damn it!! same thing and I noticed the PQ on the computer and the bigscreen was not as good as the PQ with the 167T ...still testing...but it looks to me that the 167T is a better mousetrap...for the computer and the bravo D1.

I don't see how the PQ could be any better it's all 1's and 0's till it gets inside the D1 for interpetation, but continued stuttering is the whole reason I'm attempting the swap. This is Crazy I tell you Crazy, It's just like the whole "NEW D1" fiascal. We order NEW, PAY for NEW, and get USED. WE KNOW WE WANT THE 167T and we ORDER the 167T and we get a 16P1S.
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post #370 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 07:35 PM
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For an easy to do explanation of why the DVD reader can affect quality, try burning 2 audio cd's from your favourite album. Burn 1 at the lowest possible speed you can, like 1x or 2x. Then burn the next at the fastest you can, eg 32x. Listen to them both. The faster burn will sound worse. They both come from the same source, and they both were burned by the same burner, but the faster one will have more 'jitter' and other anomalies. There are infact so many 1's and 0's on the disks, that some of them are written wrong, read wrong, skipped over...etc. Newer drives have methods to reduce this like real-time quality monitoring, but the older drives do a good job of demonstrating that it doesn't matter that they're all just 1's and 0's.
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post #371 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by wes nance View Post

Scooterboy,

Just making sure you have your rgb gains and offsets set to the Bob Williams numbers- that will make a big difference. Since you seem to be seeing some whiter than white distortion, it leads me to believe that your gains and offsets aren't set right. You want your brightness and contrast set at zero, and then the gains and offsets set (I can't remember the #'s off the top of my head, but they're everywhere in this thread).

Also, don't forget to set your 4805 to native, else you're scaling again and it does no good.

Followed all instructions to the letter:

SP4805 defaults all the way except:

RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = Native

Brightness and contrast are both set at 50, not zero. Is that not the default?

I watched some more tonight and as expected, the picture is certainly better than when there was ambient light. And it is indeed an excellent picture, just not the eye-popping 3D-like picture I've read described here. I'm happy I made the purchase and will certainly use it - I'm just not drinking the full cup of kool-aid.

If you have the Incredibles DVD, I'd be interested if you can see the distortions in the cloud edges that I described earlier.

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post #372 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterboy View Post

If you have the Incredibles DVD, I'd be interested if you can see the distortions in the cloud edges that I described earlier.

Scooterboy, I see no artifacts as you describe on this DVD. The artifacts you describe could be caused by increased "sharpness" levels which are not controllable through the D1 or 4805 while using the DVI input. BUT you may wish to connect the PJ with the composite or s-video output and see which Sharpness setting is employed in the PJ in this mode as this "Sharpness" setting is remembered and carried over to the DVI input as default. I use "standard" sharpness as anything else higher or lower produces more artifacts.

My seven year old daughter mentioned tonight, while watching the opening scenes of Dreamer, that everything looked "real". Philosophically I love the trade-off of no features for great picture mentality.

The S97 on the other hand has features up the ying yang, marketers take a small note.
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post #373 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quaid View Post

For an easy to do explanation of why the DVD reader can affect quality, try burning 2 audio cd's from your favourite album. Burn 1 at the lowest possible speed you can, like 1x or 2x. Then burn the next at the fastest you can, eg 32x. Listen to them both. The faster burn will sound worse. They both come from the same source, and they both were burned by the same burner, but the faster one will have more 'jitter' and other anomalies. There are infact so many 1's and 0's on the disks, that some of them are written wrong, read wrong, skipped over...etc. Newer drives have methods to reduce this like real-time quality monitoring, but the older drives do a good job of demonstrating that it doesn't matter that they're all just 1's and 0's.

Well your talking about a CD that was burnt different than the first or a copy of the original. Here we are putting in original DVD's so unless the DVD Loader is reading different bit and bytes then I don't see how it could make a difference but then again I suppose if some have a superior ability to read disk(ie they read more scratched up DVD's then one could say there are different classes of readers.


I just put in the 16P1S and it seems a tad faster. One positive for sure is there is no AUDIO POP whatsoever when switching chapters NONE. It did freeze up on me in DVE and I have seen some stutter but it's just like before(We need to double check stutter at 48mhz vs 60mhz because that may just be what we have to live with. People who put in 167T that are watching at 60mhz can't really be compared to watching at 48mhz or they can report back and let us know). I'm going to watch 4-5 dvd's this weekend before I decide(I just have the drive on top for now) if I'm going to go for the 167T. The 16P1S Loads Faster, and after the initial spin up-spins down(seems to be about the same sound as the fuss was but Lite-On is not enclosed so I think it will be quieter) is quieter, Has ZERO audio sync problems, but on 48mhz I still get a little stutter(I'm not talking about film rate stutter, but player stutter) and it froze on me once, buts that what it was doing so I don't blame that on the Lite-On even though I hoped it would fix it(I watch everything at 48mhz though). The audio is big to me and I am not going back to the loud pop, I'll either keep this one or get a 167T and return the 16P1S. I did a google to try to get the spec's for the FUSS DV9929B and first link is a post regarding someone looking for a patch to the audio problem(I guess it's a known issue even on PC's). If the 167T has stutter at 48mhz I'd keep this one and call it a day, but we'll see I have a few days to play with it. It's an improvement in AUDIO for sure, and in load times and a tad quieter, just wish the stutter hadn't showed it's head but now I want to make sure it's not a 48mhz vs 60mhz issue and not a loader issue. Some people have ZERO stutter with the FUSS loader(Maybe they are constantly at 60mhz I don't know). Also I double checked the DVE for image differences and there were none - no surprise there. But I'm open to the sugestion that not every reader picks up every single 1 and 0, I don't think DVD's are like ZERO FAULT programs (ie everysingle byte must be there for the program to work) so if they alow for micro misses of readers the we would want the best reader. I may put my PLEXOR($125 Drive) and see if it rocks the house, it should it's known for being able to read/write on broken glass type of media(very highly regarded drive) and I bet it will play with the D1 too. 16P1S is an decent improvement is it worth returning for a 167T - I don't know but if my PLEXOR Fires up I might just use it. Anybody here useing the 167T at 48mhz stutter free?
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post #374 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterboy View Post

Followed all instructions to the letter:

SP4805 defaults all the way except:

RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = Native

Brightness and contrast are both set at 50, not zero. Is that not the default?

I watched some more tonight and as expected, the picture is certainly better than when there was ambient light. And it is indeed an excellent picture, just not the eye-popping 3D-like picture I've read described here. I'm happy I made the purchase and will certainly use it - I'm just not drinking the full cup of kool-aid.

If you have the Incredibles DVD, I'd be interested if you can see the distortions in the cloud edges that I described earlier.

You've got it all right. I'll pop in my Incredibles and look for what you are describing, meanwhile, check out Hugh2's suggestion, that sounds like a good place to start. I watched "Lord of War" tonight, tons of outdoor sky and cloud shots, where normally I would see that WTW clipping with little snakes of sparklies in the sky, but there was nothing.

The other thing you might be running into is just the resolution limitation of dvd. Your best bet for the "jaw dropping" picture is something shot digitally, like the Incredibles, or Star Wars EpIII opening or something. I notice the quality of the transfer a lot more now than before.

But check your settings over on the 480i side of the 4805. It's been known for a while that they transfer over even though they shouldn't. . .

Wes
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post #375 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 09:43 PM
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Is anybody noticing slight isolated stutter?

I'm running the 48hz numbers, and maybe 10-15 times a movie I get a very slight momentary stutter, like a frame or 2 is dropped, and it's always in a horizontal pan of some sort.

Is this transport related? Refresh rate related? I thought we were getting rid of stutter with the 48hz 2:2 rate.

Just curious what everyone else is seeing. Otherwise I don't have any problems playing so far after the cap swap.

Thanks,

Wes
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post #376 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 09:55 PM
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I'm getting stutter at 48mhz. It's not frame rate jitters it's player lock up stutter for about .5 seconds. About 15 times a movie. I think it's worse with the 16P1S. I wonder if this is related to the 256 buffer size as opposed to the 512 buffer on the 167T as was mentioned before, it sure seems like a buffer issue like 256 isn't enough. I was trying to find out the buffer size of the FUSS DV9929B on Google if anybody else wants to hunt the spec's please do so. If I do send it back(Very Likely) I'm getting the 167T. 167T not the 16P9S, not anything but the 167T. If my PLEXOR works good then I may just use it. The 16P1S was close but stutter is worse, it was better in every other category. What a bummer.
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post #377 of 2689 Old 04-07-2006, 11:10 PM
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Well the PLEXTOR is working flawlessly have not seen a stutter yet and I've been trying to cause one(lots of chapter skips and DVD swaps right in the middle of playing it w/no open an close clear). I'll keep it in over the weekend but the 16P1S is going back. The Plextor can't be heard even un covered. I'm going for a 167T as thats the proven loader here. Time to get into a tussle with CLUBIT if they don't have a 167T. The Plextor looks to prove the stutter issue is loader related. The Plextor has a 8mb buffer and even though thats for high speed ripping, it is ultra fast on all commands from the remote. Sure smells like a buffer issue.
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post #378 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 05:18 AM
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So far the 167T and the D1 have been flawless at 48mhz. Still testing!!!!

Joe V.
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post #379 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

Well the PLEXTOR is working flawlessly have not seen a stutter yet and I've been trying to cause one(lots of chapter skips and DVD swaps right in the middle of playing it w/no open an close clear). I'll keep it in over the weekend but the 16P1S is going back. The Plextor can't be heard even un covered. I'm going for a 167T as thats the proven loader here. Time to get into a tussle with CLUBIT if they don't have a 167T. The Plextor looks to prove the stutter issue is loader related. The Plextor has a 8mb buffer and even though thats for high speed ripping, it is ultra fast on all commands from the remote. Sure smells like a buffer issue.

rrhomes,

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post #380 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwv651 View Post

So far the 167T and the D1 have been flawless at 48mhz. Still testing!!!!

How you tried 72Hz?

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #381 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 06:39 AM
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Wes nance and rrhomes,

Apart from some stuttering on pans the player began what I would call micro-pausing or a slight hang-up about 20 times per movie which sounds similar to what you're both experiencing. I didn't spend much time with the player before swapping the cap but this pausing began after the cap swap and ended when I went back into the player and glued the cap to the board which I omitted first time through. It maybe purely coincidental the problem ceased after the glue job but perhaps some high frequency resonances introduded from the free cap were causing some power problems.
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post #382 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 06:59 AM
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wes nance and hugh2 - thanks for the sharpness suggestion. I'll look into that but if I find nothing I think I might reset the PJ to default and start over with all settings. I seem to remember in the original 4805 monster thread that some people found that some settings "stuck" even though they were individually set back to default and the only way to clear them was a complete reset.

Watched some more last night (Polar Express and Revenge of the Sith) and remain impressed with the picture. I like the 72hz picture slightly better than the 48hz.

My 16P1S drive arrived yesterday but I haven't installed it. I haven't seen any stutter problems other than the layer change, and a half-second coming out of pause mode. Maybe I've just been lucky so far though.

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post #383 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh2 View Post

Wes nance and rrhomes,

Apart from some stuttering on pans the player began what I would call micro-pausing or a slight hang-up about 20 times per movie which sounds similar to what you're both experiencing. I didn't spend much time with the player before swapping the cap but this pausing began after the cap swap and ended when I went back into the player and glued the cap to the board which I omitted first time through. It maybe purely coincidental the problem ceased after the glue job but perhaps some high frequency resonances introduded from the free cap were causing some power problems.

What did you use to glue the cap to the board- hot glue? Did you bend the cap down on its side?
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post #384 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post

rrhomes,

Don't take crap from CLUBIT. They sent you something you did not order...give 'em hell and get you money back! Oh, check this out...HERE

So on that one down in the description it says:


Model SOHD-167T Product: Liteon XJ-HD166S 16x IDE Black DVD Drive.

What does that mean? Which drive is it?
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post #385 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 07:24 AM
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I have now watched several movies and few problems that have persisted so far are
1) picture freeze for a few seconds when pressing/resuming play after pause
2) annoying popping sound when skipping chapters
3) will not play disks with small scratches and fingerprints even those with very fine ones.
4) has playback problems with some Ritek DVD-R & DVD+R, Maxell DVD-R and Verbatim DVD+R are playing fine.
But the picture is just stunning. Very clear and noise free. A picture to die for. I will live with all of it's problems because of it's amazing picture quality.

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #386 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes nance View Post

What did you use to glue the cap to the board- hot glue? Did you bend the cap down on its side?

I used a 50V cap which I had to put at about a 35 degree angle to fit, this left an edge close to the board which I hot-glued. Gluing is definitely something to do before soldering as there's little room to do it properly otherwise.
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post #387 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh2 View Post

Philosophically I love the trade-off of no features for great picture mentality.

A man after my own heart!

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post #388 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 10:59 AM
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I apologize in advance for crossposting. I am leaving for New Zealand on Monday. All D1 power supply boards, D1 and D2 units I have received up to yesterday have been modded and are being returned: PS boards by snail mail and units by Fedex ground. Anything still enroute to me will be intercepted by my son and will wait till I return in May. I will monitor my email regularily and even check in here once in a while from NZ.

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post #389 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 11:57 AM
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Have a nice trip, cavu. Thanks for your immense contribution to this thread.

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
Alex solomon is offline  
post #390 of 2689 Old 04-08-2006, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh2 View Post

Wes nance and rrhomes,

Apart from some stuttering on pans the player began what I would call micro-pausing or a slight hang-up about 20 times per movie which sounds similar to what you're both experiencing. I didn't spend much time with the player before swapping the cap but this pausing began after the cap swap and ended when I went back into the player and glued the cap to the board which I omitted first time through. It maybe purely coincidental the problem ceased after the glue job but perhaps some high frequency resonances introduded from the free cap were causing some power problems.

Thats interesting since ithe D1 came glued. I think when people are saying they saw where the capacitor leaked they are really seeing the glue. Mine sure looked like glue and it came off like glue, one hard peel. I don't see why you couldn't add the glue after the cap swap. Its soley to stop the cap from vibrating, so as long as you use the right type of glue and get enough around the bottom of the cap it should serve it's purpose. But others have said that a loader swap has fixed the stutter and that should not be the case if it's vibration/glue related. I'm going to look for a 167T w/512 buffer not 256, or just a nice black drive with a large 1mb+ buffer from say CompUSA or someplace. I realize now that all drives are going to have to be custom fitted(Not hard) so I might as well get a huge buffer drive for say $39.95 or so at a local store. I might give the reglue a run also. I can't believe the 16P1S stuttered worse than the fuss, come to think of it the 16P1S may have vibrated more than the fuss and the Plextor is dead quiet all the time and doesn't vibrate at all, maybe the cap isn't vibrating because the Plextor isn't vibrating. Angles. Angles, Angles....To glue or not to glue, this is the question, Glueing can't hurt so I guess I just added that to the list.

Well the 167T link above looks right but I think I'll phone them first.
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