InFocus 4805 (854x480) and Vinc. Bravo D1 Specific Thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #451 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post

See, this is where I'm cornfused! I see the numbers are supposed to be the same, but take a look at the post by Alex above.

48hz @ 1030
72hz @ 1110

Now this leads me to believe that some are using the wrong numbers, and maybe be causing the so called "stutter or jitter" that some are experiencing.

And to be honest, I myself was using 1030 w/ 48hz & I was getting the "jitter". Where the heck did the 1030 # come from?

I looked again at emails from CAVU, etc., and you are right, it is 1030 @ 48hz and 1110 @ 72hz. The opening post to this thread needs to be changed.

I'm not sure where the other numbers are coming from- there is a program that spits out the settings, and it's been linked a few times in this thread, I think. I'll edit my other post.

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post #452 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes nance View Post

I looked again at emails from CAVU, etc., and you are right, it is 1030 @ 48hz and 1110 @ 72hz. The opening post to this thread needs to be changed.

I'm not sure where the other numbers are coming from- there is a program that spits out the settings, and it's been linked a few times in this thread, I think. I'll edit my other post.

Wes

I plugged in both sets of #'s w/ the custom dvi program, and 1110 does stick with both the 48 & 72hz settings.

So now I'm totally confused!

Here's the program...HERE

What we need is a sticky at the start of this thread with the official "correct" setting #'s for each of the refresh rates.

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post #453 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post

I plugged in both sets of #'s w/ the custom dvi program, and 1110 does stick with both the 48 & 72hz settings.

I'm sitting in a boarding area at O'Hare and don't have any reference materials with me but: as I have always stated, get the CR4V880 program and run your own numbers.

I created some numbers at some point in the past and have religiously cut and pasted them in all my correspondence. If they are wrong, I apologize as I have disseminated them everywhere.

Get the CR4V880 program or the web-based one that someone posted and RUN YOUR OWN NUMBERS.

Perhaps Mouw (who I know tumbles these numbers with ease) could check my numbers for sure and let me know by PM. I will edit my posts and remail everyone if I used bogus numbers.

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post #454 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

I'm sitting in a boarding area at O'Hare and don't have any reference materials with me but: as I have always stated, get the CR4V880 program and run your own numbers.

I created some numbers at some point in the past and have religiously cut and pasted them in all my correspondence. If they are wrong, I apologize as I have disseminated them everywhere.

Get the CR4V880 program or the web-based one that someone posted and RUN YOUR OWN NUMBERS.

Perhaps Mouw (who I know tumbles these numbers with ease) could check my numbers for sure and let me know by PM. I will edit my posts and remail everyone if I used bogus numbers.

Cav, not your fault man. Just playing with the program HERE and noticed that some of the numbers were coming up different. My main goal is that any & all #'s that are being disseminated throughout this thread are indeed "CORRECT".

Like I mentioned above, we need a sticky with all the correct #'s. As all D1/4805 owners "should" be using the same numbers. And I'm sure that a vast majority if not all new D1 owners/users are indeed using whatever #'s that are being posted here thinking that the #'s are right.

Just trying to clear up some confusion, and ensure that all D1/4805 owners are getting the most out of their setup.

Oh, have a good trip!

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post #455 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post

all D1/4805 owners "should" be using the same numbers!

Yes, I agree, we should all use these:

4 8 15 16 23 42. . . .

(Sorry to all of you that don't watch LOST)

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post #456 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by wes nance View Post

Yes, I agree, we should all use these:

4 8 15 16 23 42. . . .

(Sorry to all of you that don't watch LOST)

Wes

Huh? Sorry, don't watch "LOST".

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post #457 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post

Huh? Sorry, don't watch lost.

Then those numbers won't work for you. . .

Watch Season 1 on dvd. It's a good show. . .

Now back to your regular D1 programming!
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post #458 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

Man, I am surprised that the 16P1S cannot work. I was wondering if flashing the 167T firmware and patches could work for it. How long does it take codeguys to come up with patches for a new revision of the liteons?

It does work very good, just spins a little to fast is the only issue. My FUSS is working a lot better now very few audio pops and loads issues have been reduced 80%. It worked ok to began with so now it's a lot more reliable. I'm still getting a 167T. But other than the speed the 16P1S after the vibration repair worked perfectly.
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post #459 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 10:15 AM
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What causes the audio pop when skipping /FF chapters?

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #460 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 10:17 AM
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Here's my findings thus far. According to the Custom DVI program HERE these are the numbers we should be using. I've tried both sets of numers with "GLADIATOR" as the test disc. I like the 72hz most and I'll tell you why here in a moment.

Please keep in mind that these numbers came from the program above, and you can punch 'em in for yourself and you'll end up with the same.

For a 48hz refresh rate:

23687...............4795
0854.................0480
1110.................0044
0128.................0084
0494.................0001
0003.................0010
0000.................0000


For a 72hz refresh rate:

36037...............7193
0854.................0480
1110.................0044
0128.................0084
0501.................0001
0003.................0017
0000.................0000

Now as I previously stated, I used "GLADIATOR" as the test disc due to the great action/fighting scenes...lots of movement and pans.

I tested both sets of numbers, and both worked extremely well, but I ended up choosing the 72hz setting over the 48hz because...

At the very begining of the movie when you first place the disc in and it boots up, the movie options menu appears...there's the opaque "GLADIATOR" title that scrolls right to left, I noticed that at the 48hz numbers the title seemed a little jerky. At the 72hz numbers, the title was absolutely smooth, leading me to choose the 72hz numbers over the 48hz numbers. The differences between 48hz/72hz can clearly be seen during scrolling credits.

I'd advise everyone to test the numbers for yourself and see what you think. And do report back with your findings.

EDIT:

The very first post in this thread has been updated with the correct #'s. Even a few wrong numbers can make a huge difference. "Check, double check, then when your done, cheack again to make sure all your numbers ar correct!"

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post #461 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

What causes the audio pop when skipping /FF chapters?

I believe people have 'fixed' this by changing to different loaders. There is also the new talk of vibration isolation between the power supply and the loader.
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post #462 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

It does work very good, just spins a little to fast is the only issue. My FUSS is working a lot better now very few audio pops and loads issues have been reduced 80%. It worked ok to began with so now it's a lot more reliable. I'm still getting a 167T. But other than the speed the 16P1S after the vibration repair worked perfectly.

Well, I am working with C0deKing from codeguys over at cdfreaks.com to get him the firmware from the 16P1S so that he can patch it and reduce the speed. If you still have your 16P1S or can easily get it back into a Windows PC, then you may be able to help speed this up. (I have to figure out whose PC in the house I will attack since all mine are Linux based).

Once he has the stock backup firmware from the 16P1S, he can get a patched version out.

Here are two tools you can use:
LtnFW (to make the firmware backup) --> http://dhc014.rpc1.org/howto.htm#LtnFW

LtnRPC (to make the loader region free) --> http://dhc014.rpc1.org/LtnRPC/index.htm

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post #463 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

What causes the audio pop when skipping /FF chapters?

I don't know but it was loud and not good for our sound systems. It seemed like a sync issue but the vibration repair has drasiticaly reduced it. I sent my 16P1S back today so I'll ride with the FUSS till I get a Black 167T but I think I have one located. And I will be geting a 167T one way or another. I won't stick with the fuss for good.
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post #464 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Quaid View Post

I believe people have 'fixed' this by changing to different loaders.

So you are saying it is caused by the Fuss loader and changing to a different loader will fix the issue?

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #465 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

So you are saying it is caused by the Fuss loader and changing to a different loader will fix the issue?

This is also possibly system dependent- I've never heard any kind of pop on my system, it could depend on how your receiver handles the signal, etc., I suppose.
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post #466 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wes nance View Post

This is also possibly system dependent- I've never heard any kind of pop on my system, it could depend on how your receiver handles the signal, etc., I suppose.

No pop here with either the origional FUSS or the Lite-On XJHD-166S.

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post #467 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

I sent my 16P1S back today

I guess I'll have to get the back-up firmware to C0deKing myself
I'll then be able to slow down the 16P1S and give it a go. I prefer doing this since it is a new loader model, although not sure it has any improvements other than maybe better support for formats.

BTW - no pop here either. The one loud pop I ever heard after my initial cap replacement was the cap exploding!!!

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post #468 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

IBTW - no pop here either. The one loud pop I ever heard after my initial cap replacement was the cap exploding!!! [/b]

That's funny! As soon as you had posted your cap had popped, I wondered about the polarity, as one of my traumatic high school memories is making this simple computer design, with all these parts, wire wrapping the whole thing, etc., lots of work, and it had this *huge* capacitor. I finally finished it, was really excited, and powered it up, and the capacitor exploded in this huge mess, very violent and scared the snot out of me! Never in my wildest dreams had I imagined that my computer project could blow up!

I had wired the capacitor in backwards. . .
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post #469 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 12:30 PM
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It seems like this particular cap is only needed when you turn on the D1 by the press switch on the unit. My cap exploded soon as it was turned on but worked flawlessly for a whole week. I had never turned it back off using the power switch. After I finally did that and tried to power it back on, then the PS issues arised and therefore the same symtoms of the original OEM cap surfaced. Just thought that was worth noting for what it may be worth in the future. I really don't think anyone will put their cap in the wrong way like I did to find out what happpens :-)

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post #470 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 12:52 PM
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I went out and picked up silicon form HD. After I got home I noticed a warning sign that says not to be used in applications where temp exceeds 205C and I am wondering if the temp of D1 exceed 200C. I examined the PS board to see what needs to be glued and almost everything on that board is secured to the board pretty tight. There is no room between the caps and the board to squeeze even a small amount of glue unless I am applying the silicon to the outside circumference of the caps. Is there a liquid semi-permanent glue that I can use that I can easily remove if I need to later? BTW, I picked up contact cement before the silicon but the guy at HD strongly advised me not to use the contact cement on a PC board. As a matter of fact he said there is no silicon at HD that are suitable for PC application. All are coarse. If anybody can recommend a brand name or have HD SKU#, I appreciate it.
I would like to use the type of glue used to secure the infamous cap (that is the only place glue has been used on my D1). Easy to remove.

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #471 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

I went out and picked up silicon form HD. After I got home I noticed a warning sign that says not to be used in applications where temp exceeds 205C and I am wondering if the temp of D1 exceed 200C. I examined the PS board to see what needs to be glued and almost everything on that board is secured to the board pretty tight. There is no room between the caps and the board to squeeze even a small amount of glue unless I am applying the silicon to the outside circumference of the caps. Is there a liquid semi-permanent glue that I can use that I can easily remove if I need to later? BTW, I picked up contact cement before the silicon but the guy at HD strongly advised me not to use the contact cement on a PC board. As a matter of fact he said there is no silicon at HD that are suitable for PC application. All are coarse. If anybody can recommend a brand name or have HD SKU#, I appreciate it.
I would like to use the type of glue used to secure the infamous cap (that is the only place glue has been used on my D1). Easy to remove.

200C is pretty darn hot, almost 400F!! I think you'll be fine. Else use hot melt glue. . .
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post #472 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 01:47 PM
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Well, I used Permatex black silicon that is used in car engines, so it gets hot in there. I have used it on a number of applications throughout the years and not had a problem. I know it will not damage the PS board but my only concern was that heat was able to be release so I ensured none the caps were siliconed from its base to the board all the way round. We'll see if any problems arise. So far, so good.

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post #473 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

Well, I am working with C0deKing from codeguys over at cdfreaks.com to get him the firmware from the 16P1S so that he can patch it and reduce the speed. If you still have your 16P1S or can easily get it back into a Windows PC, then you may be able to help speed this up. (I have to figure out whose PC in the house I will attack since all mine are Linux based).

Once he has the stock backup firmware from the 16P1S, he can get a patched version out.

Here are two tools you can use:
LtnFW (to make the firmware backup) --> http://dhc014.rpc1.org/howto.htm#LtnFW

LtnRPC (to make the loader region free) --> http://dhc014.rpc1.org/LtnRPC/index.htm

I can probably take a stab at this tonight - I 'll let you know how I do.

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post #474 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 02:25 PM
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OK, great. You only need the first tool to do this. The second one is for you to make the loader region free. Please just do the back-up first, so that he has a virgin stock firmware, then you can make you loader region free with the second tool afterwards.

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post #475 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

OK, great. You only need the first tool to do this. The second one is for you to make the loader region free. Please just do the back-up first, so that he has a virgin stock firmware, then you can make you loader region free with the second tool afterwards.

Actually, I was only going to do the backup anyway (to help the cause). I don't care about being region-free.

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post #476 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 02:38 PM
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Different topic:

If 48hz and 72hz are good for film, and 60hz is good for video, does that mean we should have a set of custom DVI numbers for 60hz for when we want the best PQ for a video source?

Is that a dumb question?

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post #477 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 02:42 PM
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Are you guys leaving the jumpers in MASTER in your replacement drives? Just curious as the FUSS doesn't have a jumper in place.

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post #478 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterboy View Post

Different topic:

If 48hz and 72hz are good for film, and 60hz is good for video, does that mean we should have a set of custom DVI numbers for 60hz for when we want the best PQ for a video source?

Is that a dumb question?

Your better off leaving your custom settings alone and using the D1's 852x480 @ 60hz. That way your not constantly re-entering custom #'s. You won't even notice the missing pixels.

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post #479 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post

Your better off leaving your custom settings alone and using the D1's 852x480 @ 60hz. That way your not constantly re-entering custom #'s. You won't even notice the missing pixels.

Ah, forgot about that preset. Good point!

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post #480 of 2689 Old 04-10-2006, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by scooterboy View Post

Ah, forgot about that preset. Good point!

Yup! You can just use your remote to toggle if/when you need it. I think?

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