InFocus 4805 (854x480) and Vinc. Bravo D1 Specific Thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 12:57 AM
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after watching more of it I can only reaffirm that statement, How in the Hell can S-Video look soooooo Digitally sharp, ZERO GHOSTING, I mean I've seen 10 different S-Video and they all look good but not as sharp as this, lines are just uber crisp. No skips in a full run of Solaris, I think my audio system is to blame for some audio issues I'm having it takes it a second to sync to the DD decoder, but I noticed this with other setups so I don't think it's the D1. Anybody else have any issues with the optical out making a popping sound when you move to another chapter or back and forth.

PS: I've PM all you guys regarding JeffKB.
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post #92 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

How do I do this and do I need to?

It's in the same menu as the region setting. On the remote press Right, Down, Left, Up, Enter, 1 to get to this menu.

You only need to shut it off if you plan to record the output to VHS or a standalone DVD recorder. Macrovision is what garbles the picture if you try to do this with protected discs. These days it's easier to just extract on your PC and burn to disc, but I turned it off, well, because I could.

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post #93 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder696969 View Post

...By the way, I was the bastard that got that $25 D1 on eBay, hoping the cap switch would fix it, and now I have a fully functional, great condition, cap fixed D1 for $27 total cost.

$25 bucks..."You lucky S.O.B.!" Hell, even at $79-$99 bucks this thing is worth every friggin' penny! Congrats on getting your unit up & running.

$25 bucks...."Bastard!"

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post #94 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffKB View Post

...Actually I'm just pissed all this stuff didn't come out a year ago. If I wasn't planning on getting rid of my 4805 soon I'd get a D1 and see what all this hub-bub is about.

Hey Jeff,

"Don't hate the player...hate the game!" I can't believe I actually said that.

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post #95 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 11:38 AM
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Damn you spyder696969, I knew it was the cap.....hehe. Anyway, I pull the trigger last night and order one from NE. Got the cap from RS today with some braid and an iron (Will report on my emergency room visit when I begin the mod).

BTW - The cap I got from RS was blue but on their website it appears black, would there be an issue with this?

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post #96 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 11:39 AM
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aside from ubid, newegg and ebay, where else can you buy this player?
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post #97 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDD337 View Post

aside from ubid, newegg and ebay, where else can you buy this player?

Chiefvalue has them also.
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post #98 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utopia1956 View Post

Chiefvalue has them also.

Although chiefvalue and newegg are related. Same parent company or CEO or something like that. Also $1 more expensive and I spoke with them and NE and only newegg states on their website that they will exchange the unit, CV does not have this claim on their site but may most likely do it.

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post #99 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

BTW - The cap I got from RS was blue but on their website it appears black, would there be an issue with this?

I got the same blue one from RS and installed it last night. No problems.

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post #100 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 12:39 PM
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How can I tell which firmware I have on the D1?

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #101 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

How can I tell which firmware I have on the D1?

Press setup on the remote, goto HD DVI OUT, key in 9713 on your remote - if you get a custom screen you have the very latest firmware, if you don't you have the first firmware I think there has only been 2.
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post #102 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:00 PM
 
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I pull the trigger often on things that are "broken" and have only had 2 things that I couldn't repair with a simple 10-20 minute fix or settings adjustment because someone didn't know jack about electronics. The first DVD player I ever got (waayyy back in the day) was one of the first Pioneers ever made that was still selling at $700. I paid $40 for it because the shop didn't know to flip the switch from component to composite output. I turned around and sold it for $450 on eBay a week later and bought a new unit that I liked more.

My first Panny HDD/DVD was a DMR-E80H that cost me $42 and needed a new hdd put in that cost me $30. $72 total for a (then) $480 unit. I couldn't even get one today for $72.

Not bragging, just saying that there are deals for those that look around and don't mind taking a minimal risk. Even if this D1 wouldn't have worked, I would have had a nice parts unit and extra remote for cheap, so no biggie. Thanks again to all that helped.
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post #103 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

Press setup on the remote, goto HD DVI OUT, key in 9713 on your remote - if you get a custom screen you have the very latest firmware, if you don't you have the first firmware I think there has only been 2.

Alternatively, from a previous Cavu post that I just found:

Quote:


You can quickly determine whether or not your unit has the lastest firmware by using the remote control and keying "RIGHT-DOWN-LEFT-UP-ENTER-1"; if the 'secret region-setting menu' appears, you are OK. If not, you need to upgrade your firmware.


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post #104 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:06 PM
 
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Is it safe to leave these units in "standby" mode via the remote, or do they need to be shut down completely? Typically, anything will a full push-button power switch needs to be shut completely off, from my limited experience with such items. (As a general rule, these are "cheaper" units.)
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post #105 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:11 PM
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The region method may be a tad tricky for a few, I got mine off region and had NO DISPLAY, another poster had the same problem, it's an easy fix if you get off region but the first example may be less risky for the very novice(like me). Just a thought.
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post #106 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:25 PM
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here is the Radio Shack 1000mfd 35v Radial Cap installed (big blue XICON)



these are the Smudges we see on the front display PCboard
NO Big deal....i removed them with Qtip and Isopropyl Alcohol
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post #107 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:39 PM
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Okay...finished the D1 cap replacemnt...hooked it up to the 4805 by Dvi and NO picture I have sound through the optical cable. Is there something I need to do to get a picture working with DVI. Thanks.

Joe V.
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post #108 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:44 PM
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Yes make sure it is ON in the menu, Push setup on the remote when there is no disc in the tray, go to video and select DVI and select the 852x480 unless you have entered in the custom numbers that are stated elsewhere in the SP4805 and I think this thread. Also your region may be off but I didn't think you could get sound if that was the case, read back a few pages to set you region.
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post #109 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

Yes make sure it is ON in the menu, Push setup on the remote when there is no disc in the tray, go to video and select DVI and select the 852x480 unless you have entered in the custom numbers that are stated elsewhere in the SP4805 and I think this thread. Also your region may be off but I didn't think you could get sound if that was the case, read back a few pages to set you region.

Thanks...everything works perfect now.

Joe V.
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post #110 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 01:55 PM
 
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I forgot to mention that anyone thinking about using a Coleman "Cold Heat" gun should just buy the RS 15 or 25 watt soldering iron for $8. I could have done the mod with my Colman unit, but it would have made the process much more risky...though they are good for other things.
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post #111 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder696969 View Post

I forgot to mention that anyone thinking about using a Coleman "Cold Heat" gun should just buy the RS 15 or 25 watt soldering iron for $8. I could have done the mod with my Colman unit, but it would have made the process much more risky...though they are good for other things.


I thought I read a while back that 15 watts in inadequate and should use a 30 watts iron. So the 15 watt is sufficient for the job?

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #112 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 02:07 PM
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Quote:


So the 15 watt is sufficient for the job?

According to CAVU yes and he should know, he's did it in his sleep.
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post #113 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 02:24 PM
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i replaced the loader with a LiteOn 167T
i also replaced the loader in my Momitsu 880DX with a LiteOn 16P9S
these units are MUCH quicker than the original FUSS/EPO drives
see Replaced Loader in Bravo D1 thread
The Loaders (including the Fuss Audio) were benchmark tested on an older 1GHz, Pentium III.
The relevant test results (jrannison) are as follows:

_____________________Fuss Audio(D1)__LG Elect.__Sony____Pioneer_____Lite-On_____Toshiba
Max Transfer Rate:________1.79X_________8X______5.5X_____8.2X________7.8X __ _____4.2X
Random Seek Time:_________560ms_________117ms___110ms ____82ms________86ms_________----
1/3 stroke Seek Time:_____820ms_________111ms___103ms ____92ms________96ms_________----
Full stroke Seek Time:___1187ms_________180ms___167ms ___162ms_______211ms_________----
Layer Change Time:________100ms_________860ms____46ms_____79ms _______93ms________100ms




Note: i left the front Spacer-Plate (protects Display PCboard) in
........Tray closes to within a 1/16 inch of front face



Intx are abound in the above Loader Replacement thread
here is my abbreviated method

1. Eject D1 tray...then power off....remove 8 cover screws
2. unplug power/ide cable....remove 4 screws holding down FUSS/EPO
3. Remove FRONT of TRAY on the FUSS/EP0 (pull up to free from glue)
4. Remove FRONT Bezel (easier to remove bottom plate first) and Front of Tray LiteOn 167T
5. Position new loader on upraised mounts...mark with pencil 4-holes for bottom screws (i also measured)
6. Drill for Holes (remember to vacuum fragments) (u could also just use VELCRO)
7. Install...Shim Front so it OPENS easily
8. Test with DVD to see if it LOADS.....reAssemble

NOTE: If replacement DVD-ROM is New......1st
NOTE: put in Computer/Play Movie to set RCE (Region Coding Enhancement)
NOTE: Use something under DVD to Pad/Isolate vibrations from case
NOTE: i also substituted a Shielded IDE cable for the Flat-Ribbon

you can get up to date Quite FirmWare at CodeGuys for the LiteOn 167T
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post #114 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 02:35 PM
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I think I'm missing something and have gone back and read the three threads about the D1. Once Cavu found the bad cap and that the loader was never the fault, why is it that one will want to do this mod to install another loader? I belive it was implied that cap mod made the D1 rock solid and no loader mod was needed.

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post #115 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouw View Post

i replaced the loader with a LiteOn 167T
i also replaced the loader in my Momitsu 880DX with a LiteOn 16P9S
these units are MUCH quicker than the original FUSS/EPO drives
see Replaced Loader in Bravo D1 thread
The Loaders (including the Fuss Audio) were benchmark tested on an older 1GHz, Pentium III.
The relevant test results (jrannison) are as follows:

_____________________Fuss Audio(D1)__LG Elect.__Sony____Pioneer_____Lite-On_____Toshiba
Max Transfer Rate:________1.79X_________8X______5.5X_____8.2X________7.8X __ _____4.2X
Random Seek Time:_________560ms_________117ms___110ms ____82ms________86ms_________----
1/3 stroke Seek Time:_____820ms_________111ms___103ms ____92ms________96ms_________----
Full stroke Seek Time:___1187ms_________180ms___167ms ___162ms_______211ms_________----
Layer Change Time:________100ms_________860ms____46ms_____79ms _______93ms________100ms




Note: i left the front Spacer-Plate (protects Display PCboard) in
........Tray closes to within a 1/32 inch of front face



Intx are abound in the above Loader Replacement thread
here is my abbreviated method

1. Eject D1 tray...then power off....remove 8 cover screws
2. unplug power/ide cable....remove 4 screws holding down FUSS/EPO
3. Remove FRONT of TRAY on the FUSS/EP0 (pull up to free from glue)
4. Remove FRONT Bezel (easier to remove bottom plate first) and Front of Tray LiteOn 167T
5. Position new loader on upraised mounts...mark with pencil 4-holes for bottom screws (i also measured)
6. Drill for Holes (remember to vacuum fragments) (u could also just use VELCRO)
7. Install...Shim Front so it OPENS easily
8. Test with DVD to see if it LOADS.....reAssemble

NOTE: i also substituted a Shielded IDE cable for the Flat-Ribbon

you can get up to date Quite FirmWare at CodeGuys for the LiteOn 167T

Well I think I'll go ahead and give it a shot as I love fast chapter changes and so forth, the Lite-on can be made REGION FREE right? I may want to play a few PAL DVD's but it's not a huge deal.

BTW: Nice link on the firmware update, mega time saver.
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post #116 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

I think I'm missing something and have gone back and read the three threads about the D1. Once Cavu found the bad cap and that the loader was never the fault, why is it that one will want to do this mod to install another loader? I belive it was implied that cap mod made the D1 rock solid and no loader mod was needed.

There is no need for a new loader, But if done right, there are higher grade loaders(Faster and quieter and better at reading certain media) for the mod heads that just can't stop tinkering. The loader mod is more time consuming than the cap mod. But I have a lot of time on my hands right now, so I think I'll do it. In the next few weeks.
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post #117 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder696969 View Post

Is it safe to leave these units in "standby" mode via the remote, or do they need to be shut down completely? Typically, anything will a full push-button power switch needs to be shut completely off, from my limited experience with such items. (As a general rule, these are "cheaper" units.)

The D1 is an "off and on with the remote only" sort of player. If you power cycle from the main switch, it will remember your custom settings, but when you play again it might switch to 480p.

Bottom line, you want to leave the unit in standby mode and always use the remote. I'm having a problem with my sitter for the kids turning it off at the switch, and I have to go back in and re-confirm my custom settings. . .

Wes
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post #118 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 03:14 PM
 
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Thanks, Wes!
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post #119 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 03:19 PM
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Where are the JP1 codes for the D1 again? Never mind, got a .txt over at hifi-remote. No rdmu though.

 

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post #120 of 2689 Old 03-29-2006, 04:06 PM
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My D1 arrived from Newegg and seemed to be a brand new unit with everything sealed.
Hope to do the cap mod in the not too distant future, but as it stands the picture with custom settings over DVI>HDMI is amazing!
I have decided to put my on-going HTPC efforts on the backburner for now as I don't have time for it especially given the picture this combo displays.
It's the real deal...for others who are on the fence, I'd snatch one up in a heart beat.
Thanks Cavu!

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