InFocus 4805 (854x480) and Vinc. Bravo D1 Specific Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 2689 Old 03-26-2006, 10:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Since this topic took over on the Infocus 4805 thread.... I thought we should continue here.....
Bravo D1 Capacitor Replacement Instructions created by Cavu

Here are all the basics for your D1 and look to post #4 and #6 for replacing the Cap C1022 with one from RadioShack (part # 272-1032) and the loader. The loader only needs to be changed if you have a lot of problems playing burned DVDs.

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Originally Posted by cavu View Post

Argh! Deep breath .....

Enter the secret menu for "Custom Resolution" pixel-mapped output:
  • SETUP on the remote.
  • DOWN to Video Setting
  • RIGHT to DVI OUT.
  • Key in 9713 on the remote.
  • Input the custom settings.
  • ENTER to accept.
  • SETUP to exit the setup menu.
Use the CR4V880 program to generate the parameters for your particular resolution. Give it the Horizonal PIXELS and Vertical PIXELS along with Vertical Refresh, ie. 854x480@47.952hz will generate the rest of the numbers. The program mode you need is the "Custom Resolution Wizard" which is the 7th icon from the left on the top panel of the program's menu bar. (It's not well labelled ! ) This will create data similar to the following:
Code:
BRAVO D1 854x480@48Hz DVI Custom Settings:
                                
Horizontal Freq 23688           Vertical Freq   4795
Video Width     0854            Video Height    0480
HSyncTotal      1110            PreHSync        0044
HsyncActive     0128            PostHSync       0084
VSyncTotal      0494            PreVSync        0001
VSyncActive     0003            PostVSync       0010
HSyncPolarity   0000            VSyncPolarity   0000
Note: when setting refresh rate, divide the nominal refresh rate by 1.001 to get the accurate refresh rate. For example:

48Hz / 1.001 = 47.95
60Hz / 1.001 = 59.94
72Hz / 1.001 = 71.93

Note 1: You can pixel-map (meaning a single scaling operation to the native resolution of your display) over DVI or component, but your display must offer a "native" mode which it does not internally scale.

Note 2: You can only 1:1 pixel-map (meaning matching the source DVD resolution on a 1:1 basis to the native resolution of the display) over the DVI output to a 480 native display which display offers a "native" mode which it does not internally scale. Any other display resolution means that it is only "pixel-mapped" not "1:1 pixel-mapped" !
The latest. I don't have the version at hand. But if you can enter the "secret menus", you probably have the latest. If you cannot enter the secret menus, PM me with your email address and I will email you an ISO CD image file.

The "other" secret menu is to set region-free operation and defeat copy protection to allow upscaling over component. That code is: RIGHT-DOWN-LEFT-UP-ENTER-1.

PM me for any necessary help.

OK ... breathe now.

And for those of you who suffer from RBE you can try 72Hz, which should have less. ****A note for IN72 owners... The IN72 cannot display 72Hz... so don't bother with these numbers! And for all you with any firmware other than 2.2 on your IN72 should change the Color Settings from "Auto" to "RGB-VIDEO"****
Code:
Horizontal Freq        36036            Vertical Freq   7193
Video Width     0854            Video Height    0480
HSyncTotal      1110            PreHSync        0044
HsyncActive     0128            PostHSync       0084
VSyncTotal      0501            PreVSync        0001
VSyncActive     0003            PostVSync       0017
HSyncPolarity   0000            VSyncPolarity   0000
Most will use the custom settings (854x480) @ 48 or 72 hz for film based material. For video based stuff, use the native 852x480 because it has a 60hz refresh rate.
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post #2 of 2689 Old 03-26-2006, 10:27 PM
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Probably a good Idea, While I believe the Bravo D1/D2 is extremely relevant to the SP4805, getting info in this tread might be a little more organised and non D1 owners won't feel pushed out on the SP4805 thread. The capacitor mod can be posted here along with all the hacks and mods. I think the title of the thread is right on as this thread would be about the union of the two together and not one or the other, im my eyes they should be looked at as one as they are such a perfect fit. Hopefully this can be filled with all the mod and related info for the pair.
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post #3 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 06:35 AM
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Is anybody writing on how to mod the D1 guide, including changing the loader if needed and make and model # of a good quality loader?

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #4 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 07:06 AM
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Capacitor Replacement:
http://www.geocities.com/mprover/capreplacement.doc
-Note that this link hasn't been working

Loader hack:
http://www.gray.mb.ca/D1-hack.html

Both copied from the second 4805 thread.
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post #5 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

Is anybody writing on how to mod the D1 guide, including changing the loader if needed and make and model # of a good quality loader?


If you guys are really intersted in doing a loader swap in your D1's, then there was a thread that was created a while back with a TON of info on how to do it, which loaders to do it with, you name it!

The thread can be found HERE

I myself haven't done the loader swap, but I do have one of the recommended units on standby...Lite-On XJ-HD166S, that I pulled out of my desktop pc. If and when my D1 starts acting up, I'll be ready. Did the ps mod the minute I got my unit.

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post #6 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 07:34 AM
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post #7 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 10:08 AM
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How do I find out which loader I have with my D1 I bought from newegg last Friday? I have read somewhere these new D1's have a new loader called ECO DP... something that is supposed to work well without a problem. My understanding was only the Cap mod is needed now.

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #8 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 10:16 AM
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Never mind. I just read cavu's post in another thread. The stock loader work fine after the PS mod.

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #9 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 10:21 AM
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Alex;
Pull the cover off the D1 and the loader will have a label on it stating what it is.
My D1 has the original Fuss loader. I did the cap replacement last month but my loader has a problem sometimes starting a DVD. I doesn't stutter or freeze once its gets going but I have to do a restart to get the problem DVD going. These are factory movies not homemade.
So when I get around to it I'll change out the loader.
My main problem with the D1 is when I use the remote for my Pioneer receiver (1015tx) the D1 goes wacko. (fast forward or change chapters, ect) I had to change positions in the rack for these pieces. Still gives me a problem even using the Logitech 880 but I'll live with it.
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post #10 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 10:28 AM
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Mouw's D1 from newegg has the origianl Fuss loader. cavu has mentioned that the ECO DP-306A works extremely well. I wonder if the one from Ubid has this loader. Please advise if I should refuse signing for D1 delivery so that it goes back to newegg and buy one from Ubid provided it comes with ECO DP-306A or 306D loader. I really don't want to buy a loader at this time.

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #11 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

Mouw's D1 from newegg has the origianl Fuss loader. cavu has mentioned that the ECO DP-306A works extremely well. I wonder if the one from Ubid has this loader. Please advise if I should refuse signing for D1 delivery so that it goes back to newegg and buy one from Ubid provided it comes with ECO DP-306A or 306D loader. I really don't want to buy a loader at this time.

The one I received from UBID has the Fuss Audio loader.

Joe V.
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post #12 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 10:38 AM
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Your chances are slim to none that if you refuse the unit, and/or send it back in hopes of getting one with an EPO loader. My unit is from ubid and it has the oem FUSS loader. I haven't even had a chance to watch a full length feature yet as I've been tending to the honey-dew list. But, I have thrown several movies in since I got it, skipped, chapter selects and what not without any problems...so far!

If & when it does start acting up, I'll slap the Lite-On XJ-HD166S in.

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post #13 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

I really don't want to buy a loader at this time.

This seems to be gnashing of teeth for no particular reason.

BOTH standard loaders works just fine! The EPO is a slightly newer generation, but nothing to write home about.

NO other style of loader is a "Plug 'n Play" - the Bravo loaders are a specific form factor. If velcro, duct tape, shims are your thing - go ahead.

But in general terms, there is no need to change the loader!

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post #14 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post


But in general terms, there is no need to change the loader!

Thanks, that's good to hear.

I want to hear opinions from people who don't have a dog in the fight.
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post #15 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

But in general terms, there is no need to change the loader!

In General Terms yes, BUT..... I did the cap switch and still have problems with DVD+R and no go at all with DVD+RW (disks that play well on my HD841, Pioneer 525, and Terapin). I am hoping loader swap will allow me to play all my burned disks more reliably.
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post #16 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 12:57 PM
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so I reported last night that my newly burned DVD-R wouldnt play on my D1 without skipping. Well I used my old DVD player ($20 special at bestbuy) and it played the disc a little long , but it still froze up. I tried using some of my other DVD-Rs , and the unit worked fine, so I assume its something with either the new DVD-Rs I have (Memorex branded Ritek-G05s) or my new burner (sony Dual layer burner in dell 630m) . Ill investigate more.
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post #17 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander_1966 View Post

In General Terms yes, BUT..... I did the cap switch and still have problems with DVD+R and no go at all with DVD+RW (disks that play well on my HD841, Pioneer 525, and Terapin). I am hoping loader swap will allow me to play all my burned disks more reliably.

If you just play regular DVD's then there is NO REASON to change the loader. But I agree that IF someone wants to mess with the hassle of a new loader ie..all the region stuff the and hick-ups on installing it, then feel free. I won't change my loader until there is a proven, bonafied easy method of doing so. Yes I can get it done, but feel no need to because I only play standard DVD's and not stuff I have burned to DVD. The day that it's as easy as the capacitor swap, I MIGHT consider it. For me though the old adage "If it isn't broke, don't fix it" is where I stand. However I will be watching for EASY detailed instructions for those who have done it, but I'm not interested in a loader that can't be REGION FREE like the standard D1/D2 loader can. If I can REGION FREE a loader and swap it out with a nice cosmetic fit, then when I have nothing better to do some night I may do it. If DONE RIGHT, I don't see how it could be a bad thing. I'll let others practice and I'll watch till we have a very reliable method.
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post #18 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 01:26 PM
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Swapped my loader with a 166 when I got my prewoned unit few months back. Swap was easy.
No problems after that (were plenty befoer that tho).
Have not done the cap mod yet, but will if/when I need to.
So far, my only issues is the Pioneer code issue. otherwise, works just fine.

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post #19 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mboy View Post

Swapped my loader with a 166 when I got my prewoned unit few months back. Swap was easy.
No problems after that (were plenty befoer that tho).
Have not done the cap mod yet, but will if/when I need to.
So far, my only issues is the Pioneer code issue. otherwise, works just fine.

do you mean you can't make it region free, is that the code issue or are you talking about something else?


BTW: I just got my tracking number from Ubid, unit will get here tommorow can't wait, I'll swap the cap and see what loader I have, SP4805 will be here Thursday.
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post #20 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 01:59 PM
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CAVU, I have access to a 100 watt solder gun. I can get the braid and new solder at RS for about $4.50 or I can buy their cheapest set up 30 watt w/solder and then buy the braid for about $11.50 total. I know it seems trival but I'd just as soon keep the extra $7 in my pocket since it's a one time job for me. With the braid in between the gun and the board do you think that I'd be ok as far as not damaging the board if I pull up right when I see the braid uptake the old solder. And do you like the braid for or the suction type or are they about the same. I'll get the 30 watt if I really should but don't want to if not needed.
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post #21 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

I have access to a 100 watt solder gun.

YIKES!! I use a 15w pencil.
Quote:


And do you like the braid for or the suction type

The braid is appropriate for this job. Most people don't know how to use a solder sucker and could put out their eye with one of the stronger ones.

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post #22 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

...could put out their eye with one of the stronger ones.

Owwwww!!! Heeheeehe.

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post #23 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 05:40 PM
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Holy mother of frankenstein on roller skates....you guys have ME thinking about getting one of these screwy things. Its a world gone mad....
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post #24 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian I Am View Post

Holy mother of frankenstein on roller skates....you guys have ME thinking about getting one of these screwy things. Its a world gone mad....

Whats there to think about, if you have a SP4805 you just buy it, stop confusing yourself. At $95 to your door it's a steal. Since the scaler is incredible I'd very curious to see what it looked like at custom res set to 1280x720 on a HD2+ chip say compared to the OPPO, while it's an incredible 854x480 machine I bet it also ROCKS at 1280x720 via DVI and if thats the case it's an UBER steal, it is anyhow. If theres one thing I've learned, it's the SP4805+D1 is like the BORG - "RESISTANCE IS FUTILE".
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post #25 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

YIKES!! I use a 15w pencil.The braid is appropriate for this job. Most people don't know how to use a solder sucker and could put out their eye with one of the stronger ones.

Well I bought the 30 watt and a Solder Sucker befor I read your post, but that was my concern being a first time user - could I get the Board clean, I thought it might have more pull than the braid, guess I'll learn on the fly. I think your saying don't look directly in to the just used sucker and squeeze it.
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post #26 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 07:31 PM
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UPDATE!!
Being that I was the first one to get a bad D1 from UBID and now having to deal with Astar/KXD all I can say is good luck...their support dept is absolutely terrible so far. Beware!!! UBID is now stepping in to the rescue...To be continued.

Joe V.
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post #27 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 08:29 PM
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Good luck jwv651. Your experience is the only reason I am yet to pull the trigger, but very tempting since I do need to get a few DVD players for my place.

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post #28 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 09:15 PM
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To me it seems the UBID D1's seem to be the most likley one's to be unopened and most are working if you read back through the thread. I think jvw651's D1 could have been fixed with the mod but he said it had a hairline crack in it, seems he got unlucky in the draw, mine will be here tomorow so we'll see on it. It's from UBID. I'll fire it up one time to see if it's not DOA, if not the cap swap and thank my stars.
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post #29 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

To me it seems the UBID D1's seem to be the most likley one's to be unopened and most are working if you read back through the thread. I think jvw651's D1 could have been fixed with the mod but he said it had a hairline crack in it, seems he got unlucky in the draw, mine will be here tomorow so we'll see on it. It's from UBID. I'll fire it up one time to see if it's not DOA, if not the cap swap and thank my stars.

You are correct mine had a hairline crack on the front panel...it probably could of been fixed with the mod per Cavu...if it wasn't for the crack I would of kept it. Wednesday I have another one coming from Newegg...hopefully this one will be a keeper.

Joe V.
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post #30 of 2689 Old 03-27-2006, 10:12 PM
 
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Cavu,

You gonna have that website up before you take off on us for a month? I'd hate to have to fly all the way there to track you down!
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