With the IN7X series being out for a while, I feel it's time to diversify and specify! To get things going, I'm running an IN72, casting an 84" image (no screen, white wall) with an OPPO 971 and Comcast HD (see below for settings). Seating distance is at about 11'. This set-up has been up and running for about 2 weeks and has not disappointed, although tweaking is still in progress! Screen door is noticeable with light backgrounds and credits. Just wondering what set-up others are running? For questions, I've noticed that the "Natural Wide" does not stretch a 4:3 image to the 16:9 aspect ratio, is this correct? Are people using different projector settings (i.e., RGB gains) for DVI/HDMI settings versus component input?
Quote:
Originally Posted by igoeasy /forum/post/12154673
check your digital source settings on the IN72 and make sure that HDMI is enabled. I usually have to disable the M1-DA source in order to watch through the HDMI connection.
For the audio. disable the HDMI audio on the A2 player. This should send signal through the optical port instead. Analog connections should work at all times.
I have the same setup and everything looks and sounds great !
That is not good news. I have my HTPC on the DVI and when I get my 360 it will go on HDMI. Would I just use autosource then? Or would I have to manually disable it? That would suck!
Looking at buying an hd dvd player or blueray player but was wondering if anyone could answer this:
Does the refresh rate (wheel rotation speed) adjust to a multiple of 24hz when being fed 1080p24 signals? I will pay extra for this feature if it does if not I don't see a point in spending additional dollars.
anyone with a D1 run the setup from ratatouille? I'm noticing something kind of off. When you try to set black level, the below black bars on the left won't show up at all, even if you crank brightness way up. This is in the rgb-video colorspace setting. I switched over to the rgb colorspace, and the below black bars show up. Then re adjusting settings to this disc and rgb equals brightness at 38 and contrast around 60-something. I can't compare back-to-back images with the 50-50 setting and rbg video, but I think the rgb and calibration looks a little better.
Anyone have any ideas? Possible that rgb-video is crushing contrast. Another anomaly, if you've seen the setup screen, is the white area used for contrast seems to dance up and down a couple pixels, maybe due to running the D1 at 48hz with video based material?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gprro1 /forum/post/12197309
anyone with a D1 run the setup from ratatouille? I'm noticing something kind of off. When you try to set black level, the below black bars on the left won't show up at all, even if you crank brightness way up. This is in the rgb-video colorspace setting. I switched over to the rgb colorspace, and the below black bars show up. Then re adjusting settings to this disc and rgb equals brightness at 38 and contrast around 60-something. I can't compare back-to-back images with the 50-50 setting and rbg video, but I think the rgb and calibration looks a little better.
Anyone have any ideas? Possible that rgb-video is crushing contrast. Another anomaly, if you've seen the setup screen, is the white area used for contrast seems to dance up and down a couple pixels, maybe due to running the D1 at 48hz with video based material?
it's not thx, but I guess it's like thx. I think it is disney's own. They have a website to help, and I heard it was supposed to be a decent set up, so I checked it out of curiosity. I've been using the 72 at the defaults because I thought with the D1 it was close to perfect.
I wish Bob was still around to confirm. Still looks pretty good either way. Although, I'm wondering if I got one with a slightly dim bulb. 150 hours and I'm ready to pull the ND2 maybe. 92in diy light gray screen, but with metallic sliver and poly, so the gain should be at least 1.
Anyone have an IN72 they'd like to sell me? I need a spare for a project. Figure it's close to time for many here to start feeding the upgrade bug. Shoot me a PM if interested.
I've been using mu LG lda 531 for almost 2 years with an SP4805. The PJ is dead and the IN72 is my cheapest replacement option. I think that the LG was a slightly newer, improved model of the zenith 318 types. It has Faroudja and upconverts via Component (remote hack). I've been using 720p and its much better than 480i/p. Any similar results with the IN72 over component? I don't feel like replacing the player because its really nice so far. Cheers.
I need some help with setting up my projector. I've had for 6mos and am really enjoying it but I'm totally a newbie at this. Here are a few questions:
1. Which setting for widescreen movies? Letterbox? Natural Wide? Native etc?
2. I do have an upconverting Toshiba DVD player but I'm not sure if there's any advantage to upconverting the signal if the projector will down convert? Is there?
3. Will upconverting from 480 to 720p or 1080i affect the picture in terms of how wide it is?
4. Why is that some Wide Screen movies fill the screen and others leave me with the large black bars on the top and bottom as if I was watching it on a 4:3 tele?
I know these are very basic questions but if there is a book or some reading material online that you suggest I read please let me know. Or if you can answer these questions that'd be really great!
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdi /forum/post/12300206
HI All,
I need some help with setting up my projector. I've had for 6mos and am really enjoying it but I'm totally a newbie at this. Here are a few questions:
1. Which setting for widescreen movies? Letterbox? Natural Wide? Native etc?
2. I do have an upconverting Toshiba DVD player but I'm not sure if there's any advantage to upconverting the signal if the projector will down convert? Is there?
3. Will upconverting from 480 to 720p or 1080i affect the picture in terms of how wide it is?
4. Why is that some Wide Screen movies fill the screen and others leave me with the large black bars on the top and bottom as if I was watching it on a 4:3 tele?
I know these are very basic questions but if there is a book or some reading material online that you suggest I read please let me know. Or if you can answer these questions that'd be really great!
16:9 should be the setting, not native. Only use native if you are using a player that can pixel map such as the Bravo D1. The bars at the top and bottom have to do with the aspect ratio of the original content, follow spiders link for more info on this.
I have an HTPC @ 854 x 480. I have been using 16:9 because it allows me to switch easily the resolutions of the PC back and forth between 480 and 1280 x 720 without issue. Will I see a dramatic benefit by switching manually to native when utilizing 480p vs 16:9 mode?
Just got the HD-A2 for my IN72, (the a2 will be going back as I found the A3 for 40.00 cheaper) but the only thing I can talk about at the moment is the A2. I was viewing some sd material and there is a difinite inprovement. My question has to do with the scene in Fith Element where leeloo is standing on the ledge. eveyone post screenies of this shot and the left side of leelos face is lost in the shadows. I could bump up brightness on the 72 and see all the detail but then I lost black level. The A2 shows all of this detail and ther black levels seem to be better. Has anyone else viewed this movie and noticed this? Has anyone else had to lower the brightness on the 72?
Quote:
Originally Posted by twisted_oak /forum/post/12302080
That brings to mind a question for me then....
I have an HTPC @ 854 x 480. I have been using 16:9 because it allows me to switch easily the resolutions of the PC back and forth between 480 and 1280 x 720 without issue. Will I see a dramatic benefit by switching manually to native when utilizing 480p vs 16:9 mode?
I turned on my projector yesterday and it had vertical lines going across the screen. I was feeling under the weather and kind of ignored it hoping that it would go away, but as of right now it hasn't. My lamp only has just over 800 hours on it. Anyone have any idea what this could be?
My digital camera is down for the count too. So unless I can borrow one, or get around to buying a new one, snapping a photo is unfortunately not an option right now. I tried reconnecting all of the cables to no avail. I'm running component from my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD Time Warner cable bow and HDMI from my Dennon 3910 DVD player. The lines are showing up with both connections. They're not one the blue start-up screen however.
Before I reinstalled my Nvidia video driver (I lost the ability to output 24Hz). I was able to switch to 24Hz and there was a visible difference when watching foreign films (24fps) vs 60Hz.
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