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post #361 of 2474 Old 10-14-2006, 10:58 AM
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ed

careful there - increasing contrast is possible to clip contrast - check your near whites on test patterns. Thanks for the feedback though.

What about BC0/CT1?

Basically the BC settings are increasingly making it brighter - but also further down into the near whites - it does this thru the clear segment with the downside of the native flourescent cyan lamp exposed. It is also doing some gamma processing that is banding/crushing brite colors. I am not sure how BC can function with the colorwheel blackened as far as making it brighter....possibly it is also using the in-between color spokes for doing secondaries. I noted to RedDog I was seeing RGBCMY rainbows - that is what he suspected is they are gaming the secondaries in between the primaries - but it is a RGBW wheel according to his teardown with a metal not optical spoke detector.

(don't panic - I use 2' wide images in calibration - rainbow city with brass fittings on my sensor stand)
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post #362 of 2474 Old 10-14-2006, 09:47 PM
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I want to say before I continue with this review that this is a good PJ for $1000 or less! Our company usually deals with higher end PJs. Our value line is really the Infocus PJs and an occasional Panny. Other than that usually Marantz, Sharp, JVC are the other main lines. We get some other brands (Sim, Samsung, etc.) but not too often. So while this review might seem critical you have to remember. Geez man this thing is only a G note!

General observations; build quality and finish are good. Has some light spray out the front. It is quiet (in low power) and I doubt many would be bothered by it. Overall picture seems soft to me, not like LCOS film like smooth I mean soft as not as crisp as other DLPs. I guess this has to do with lesser quality lens at this price point.

Installer considerations: 12V trigger nice. ?IR input, seems to need some type of interface. Have to do more research on this one. IR sensor on front, wish it had one on the back. Not a deal killer. No discrete power codes but easy work around. Switching between components is difficult. Even with source lock on it still searches for signals when you switch inputs and it doesn't find a signal. Source lock only works if you are already on the input and that source loses its signal. No RS-232.

Adjustability: General user adjustments and basic grayscale adjustments, no gamma adjustments except for presets, no primary or secondary adjustments. Many of the adjustments have course movements, meaning one unit of adjustment can often make big changes.

OK. Now on to the nitty gritty. I spent 4.5 hours calibrating one input (HDMI at 720P) on this PJ. It was definitely more difficult than most of the PJs I'm used to. If I did a lot of them I'm sure I'd get quicker but this is a long time for one input with a new unit. I have had this unit a couple of weeks and brought it home to get some hours on the bulb. The bulb currently has 30 hours on it and really I prefer to wait until about 100 hours to do a calibration until its break in period is done. Since I had already did a user level calibration (brightness, contrast, etc) I just hit reset to see what the PJ measured out of the box. Then I tried all the other parameters and adjusted the user level controls to see what would be the best compromise without touching the Bias and Gain controls. Here are the measurements and the parameters, user level calibration in parentheses ().

IRE
10- 7896 (6237)
20- 7391 (5805)
30- 7532 (6360)
40- 7271 (6228)
50- 6768 (6460)
60- 7194 (6363)
70- 6613 (6422)
80- 7670 (6197)
90- 7778 (5664)
100- 7928 (6020)

Average Gamma: 1.97 (2.34)

Parameters OOB (User)

Image
Mode - Photo (Cinema)
Contrast - {0}8 (4)
Brightness - {3} (1) This PJ does NOT pass blacker than black. I tried it on component and HDMI it doesn't pass it on either.
Color - {1} (0)
Tint - {0} (0)
Sharpness - {5} (0) This control didn't have much effect on the HDMI input
Degamma - PC (Film)
Brilliant Color - {5} (0) this control is nasty and best left off at 0. It really makes tracking of grayscale and gamma lousy. The higher setting the lower the gamma and higher grayscale became. But the tracking can be crazy.
True Vivid - {1} (0) Affects grayscale but doesn't affect gamma much.
Color Temp - {1} (1) 0 was closer but seemed to push red.
AI - Off (Off) this put the fan in high power and makes it noticeably louder. Many would find it objectionable. I didn't measure it but for noise alone I wouldn't use it.
Color Space - YCbCr (YcbCr)

Red Gain - {11} (11)
Green Gain - {11} (11)
Blue Gain - {11} (11)
Red Bias - {-17}(-17)
Green Bias - {-16}(-16)
Blue Bias - {-16}(-16)

Format -16:9 of course
Auto power - off

Calibrations Results and parameters; For reference I didn't measure the primaries and secondary colors. It doesn't have any adjustments for it and trying to correct these in sacrifice of grayscale and gamma would not be good. I used the progressive labs CA-6x and Accupel 3000 for test equipment. The probe was about 1.5 feet from the PJ. I do this to get good low level light readings and to calibrate the PJ without taking the room into consideration. Since the measurements aren't on a screen I didn't take ft/l measurements and real world contrast is going to vary by the room. My room and ceiling is VERY dark but not black. Besides, I'd have to take home a different instrument to take screen measurements. I wouldn't go bigger than 110 with this PJ, or you'll need a gain screen.

IRE
10- 6523
20- 6505
30- 6533
40- 6522
50- 6582
60- 6454
70- 6518
80- 6583
90- 6518
100- 6537
This is the average of 5 readings. I was incredibly surprised to get this to track this well. VERY surprised! This tracked as good as any other display I have worked on. And it took me a LONG time to get the bump out of the middle range. I hope this stays this close as the bulb ages.

Average Gamma: 2.19

Parameters Calibrated

Image
Mode - User
Contrast - (8)
Brightness - (2)
Color - 0
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0
Degamma - Video. I could get a good grayscale with film but the gamma ranged between 2.37 and 2.58 with film. If you prefer a Gamma of 2.5 I'd use the film setting. I chose to keep the gamma closer to 2.2 and I could only do that with the video setting
Brilliant Color - 0
True Vivid - (1)
Color Temp - 0 I was able to get rid of the red with calibration
AI -Off
Color Space - YCbCr

Red Gain -(1)
Green Gain - (1)
Blue Gain - (5)
Red Bias - (-18)
Green Bias - (-18)
Blue Bias - (-19)

Feel free to try my settings, but be warned. Your conditions may be different then mine and each PJ can have the same parameters but respond differently. So be warned it may or may not improve your picture but feel free to try it you can always hit resetīŠ

Some final observations; I need to get to bed. The color gradient on this no longer seems solarized as it did before calibration. I don't think it is the 8bit processing, I think it is more of the BC setting and other parameters which exaggerate the effect. There are some chromatic aberrations of the lens. I tried the HQV disc with an RP-91 at 480i. It does a decent job with it, minor jaggies. Motion adaptive takes a second to lock on but does work. Detail is decent but not great. The cadence sequences did OK. Picture noise level isn't bad.

The last question to be answered is do I recommend this PJ. Yes, if you can't afford a better PJ or want something to hold you over until 1080P. Compared to an IN72 I'd take this PJ even considering out of the box performance is not great. I think the IN72 is a better machine in a lot of aspects but the screen door bothers me on anything bigger than an 84 screen. For a little more (street price) I'd take an IN74 over this PJ. Resolution isn't everything and unless you are going bigger than 110 or sit real close you won't notice the difference. Throw and offset are big considerations and you should really start narrowing your choices from there.

This PJ is not earth shattering from a performance standpoint and most users at this price point aren't going to get it calibrated. But, for less than a grand you can't complain you can only expect so much.

I hope this helps.

Bob
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post #363 of 2474 Old 10-14-2006, 11:15 PM
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Well...****.....now thats what I call a tweaking review

Thanks BobL. I'm gong to try your numbers tomorrow and see what the picture looks like on my side.

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post #364 of 2474 Old 10-14-2006, 11:57 PM
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Red Gain -1
Green Gain - 1
Blue Gain - 5
Red Bias -18
Green Bias -18
Blue Bias -19

Bob - are these negative numbers or positive? Thanks for the review!
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post #365 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 04:08 AM
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I'm sorry, the Bias numbers are negative and the gain numbers are positive. I'll edit the post. To make it more clear.
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post #366 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL View Post

The last question to be answered is do I recommend this PJ. Yes, if you can't afford a better PJ or want something to hold you over until 1080P. Compared to an IN72 I'd take this PJ even considering out of the box performance is not great. I think the IN72 is a better machine in a lot of aspects but the screen door bothers me on anything bigger than an 84 screen. For a little more (street price) I'd take an IN74 over this PJ. Resolution isn't everything and unless you are going bigger than 110 or sit real close you won't notice the difference. Throw and offset are big considerations and you should really start narrowing your choices from there.

This PJ is not earth shattering from a performance standpoint and most users at this price point aren't going to get it calibrated. But, for less than a grand you can't complain you can only expect so much.

I hope this helps.

Bob

Thanks Bob for the review. Very helpful.
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post #367 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL View Post

I'm sorry, the Bias numbers are negative and the gain numbers are positive. I'll edit the post. To make it more clear.

Thanks.
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post #368 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 01:01 PM
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IT passed blacker than black for me just fine. OVer both comp. and hdmi.
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post #369 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 02:35 PM
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What was the device you were using for blacker than black. On the accupel if I set the black level to 7.5 IRE I could see the blacker than black bar. When the accupel is set to 0 IRE which is what it should be set at for 720P, the blacker than black bar which is at -4 IRE bar never appeared no matter how high the settings were. Just a curiousity question. I don't doubt your observations.

I have a gut feeling that there might be a big unit to unit difference due to the coarseness of the controls. But, I don't have a second one to test this.

Bob
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post #370 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 02:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks BobL.

These are a great starting point for me.

I did crank up the BC to 4 but I was still getting nice natural skin tones.
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post #371 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberheater View Post

Thanks BobL.

These are a great starting point for me.

I did crank up the BC to 4 but I was still getting nice natural skin tones.

yikes....bc at 4 on mine makes everything seem like a plasma...shadow detial is lost and whites are too bright crushing detail....I wonder how much these vary projector to projector?....some colors are just too over the top like the colors been turned way up...but other colors (like skin tone) hardly change.
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post #372 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 07:42 PM
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I fired up the PJ tonight and input BobL's numbers above. I'm using the HD and regular DVD versions of SLEEPY HOLLOW to base my observations on.

This is a bit of a torture test, particuarly the early scenes in old New York where Johnny Depp's uniform is seemingly devoid of any detail at all (its so black), along with some of the other police officers uniforms in the jail scene, and in the court scene where his torso and face are feature d prominently, his uniform seems to lack any detail outside of his buttons.

I had BobL's numbers plugged into USER mode, so I could switch between them and my tuned CINEMA mode. Here are some observations, particularly after I compared the output with my CRT set (a 65" ISF'ed a few years ago).

OBSERVATIONS:
Setting up Bob's numbers made the image appear more neutral...and also seemed to enhance the appearance of black, with none of the "Plasma Pop" overly bright colors that the PJ ships with out of the box. Also, in tuning the display for the gamma setting of VIDEO, this made the image look more like my CRT...more detail was resolved in dark portions of the image using VIDEO gamma than any other setting....initially I thought VIDEO was too harsh of a setting when watching HELLBOY, but when I had it running on my CRT I realized "oh, its NOT supposed to be as dark as I thought it was!". This was a revelation.....I have the PJ setup (STILL!) to be too dark and bury too much shadow detail in CINEMA mode.

But...the problem was that with these settings, the picture kind of lost its pop.
Things seemed flat...colors seemed muted. When playing on the CRT, the colors were much more vibrant. I think for my screen the RGB numbers wont work the way he has them set up. I'm going to increase them all incrementally in jumps of 2 until I can get some of the pop back into the image, hopefully without destroying everything else in the process.

Now the Color Panels on AVIA seem plenty colorful.....but on the CRT the scenes of the Halloween party early in the film were very vibrant...on the Projector they were..muted...color didn't jump off the screen. It was like watching an old CRT, things seemed greyer. (Maybe this is because of using Color setting 0 in the Advanced menu while having the RGB values backed off so much).

Either way, its another cool base to build upon....so I hope to balance the picture out a bit more again using these settings. Also, his settings brought me back to some green push...which I have to work out.

I'll continue tinkering.......until I find something that works. Has anyone done an actual measured CR on this PJ yet?

Also, RedDog....tell us more about your color wheel modification...how did you do it, and now that you've had it for a couple days, have you put any time into the thing to see if your modification is really doing everything you hoped it would do?

I know I'll probably find a setting I'm happy with pretty soon on this thing....its sooo close.
But....I'm still considering that Mits 3000u with the Iris....but then again, if I consider that, maybe I would be wise to consider a DC3 projector after Xmas...and use this little guy in the mean-time. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. Decisions...Decisions....

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post #373 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 09:07 PM
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DAY 2

My kids were watching The Incredibles today on the PJ. I sat and I watched a while and something was just not right. After they finished the movie I decided to throw in several of my reference DVDs to check everything. I was so tired last night I didn't check all the DVDs I normally do. For the most part everything was good but I felt some of the colors lost there pop. Nothing wrong mind you, flesh tones looked good, greens looked good and the reds weren't overblown. Shadow detail was fine. But, none of that vibrancy I'm used to seeing.

So back to the drawing board after the kids are in bed. I started off with my settings and just switched between video and film for the Degamma setting. This was the main problem; the pop was back but so was the sun burnt faces. Each mode has its advantages. For instance in U-571 when the champagne bottle pops open at the party. It is pretty easy to see overblown flesh tones with this scene. And the film setting here really made everyone too red. And in the sub when they first dive there is a seaman tapping the pipes with a hammer. With the film setting it was tough to see the rust spot but on the video setting it was clear. So for this movie the setting I set last night was definitely better. When trying out the DVD The Replacements in video mode the colors were natural but not vibrant but when I put it in video mode the Red uniforms really popper and I preferred the more saturated grass. It might not be as accurate as I have never went to any sporting event and have said Wow look at the colors of their uniforms. Whether it was natural or not there is definitely something pleasing about the extra vibrancy.

So, I decided to recalibrate the projector tonight using Film' Degamma setting. In this mode it doesn't track as well so I tried to get the best compromise of vibrancy in the colors and still have the shadow detail at low light. So, after another 4 hours here is the best compromise I could get. BTW, there are blacker than black bars when using this setting the video setting masked it.

Mode - User
Contrast - (23)
Brightness - (-26)
Color - (-7)
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0
Degamma -Brilliant Color - 0
True Vivid - 0
Color Temp - 0
AI -Off
Color Space - YCbCr

Red Gain - (1)
Green Gain - (-3)
Blue Gain - (2)
Red Bias - 0
Green Bias - 0
Blue Bias - (-1)

The results

10- 6437
20- 6438
30- 6353
40- 6727
50- 6749
60- 6485
70- 6386
80- 6127
90- 6116
100- 6098

Average Gamma: 2.37

When using this mode it always gets higher in the middle range. If I try to get the upper IREs near D65 the 40-70 range would be closer to 7500. I tried not to vary it too much in the lower IREs because color shifts in this range are easy for most people to spot. Anyway, feel free to try both of these settings and see which you prefer. As a side note, I would at minimum use a calibration disc to set your basic adjustments, irregardless of my settings. There are just too many variables for those setting to be correct between PJs.

Hope this helps

Bob

Ps. I typed this in word and just pasted it over here. I just read your comments so your observations about the picture pop coincided with mine. It is a tough PJ to adjust and I don't expect perfection at this price. I'll go do a quick on/off contrast measurement and post back in a few minutes. I'm not motivated enough this late to do an ANSI one.
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post #374 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 09:29 PM
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Contrast on/off

With film settings: 665
With video settings: 585

Not surpised by this one. I'm sure if you turn on AI and some other settings we can get a significantly higher reading with a good sacrifice of picture quality.

Bob

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post #375 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 09:47 PM
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BTB was passed via a panny dvd-s97. All settings normal on the panny.

Also guys I'm going to do a full write up on the mod in the next day or so. I will show how to do the mod and include pics. I will also detail why the mod works so well.
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post #376 of 2474 Old 10-15-2006, 10:07 PM
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Thanks for your latest batch of settings BobL! I'm not really going for D65, just trying to get the most pleasing picture for my conditions and eliminate the extra green or red I seem to keep getting.
For hi-def viewing over HDMI, I plugged in your settings, but kept degamma at video, increased brightness to -16 and have been teatering between 0 and 1 for brilliant color. Keeping in mind I'm not trying to reach any spec, just make it look good to me, this has been the best I've seen it yet. Thanks again, look forward to seeing any further numbers you come up with.

-D
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post #377 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 01:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL View Post

Contrast on/off

With film settings: 665
With video settings: 585

Not surpised by this one. I'm sure if you turn on AI and some other settings we can get a significantly higher reading with a good sacrifice of picture quality.

Bob

.

Wow. These seem super low.

Did you have a chance to measure the default settings?
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post #378 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 03:54 AM
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There are two facotrs here:

1. Real world calibrated figures are never as inflated as manufacturer's claims.

2. You can't to use these figures to compare against other people's measurements. There are many factors involved in taking measurements and you will use diferent techniques and equipment depending on what parameters you are trying to measure.

I didn't measure the default settings. I am sure they would be higher especially if you use the AI parameter. But, a higher contrast doesn't mean a better picture, better colors, better shadow detail, etc.

Bob
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post #379 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 05:30 AM
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Thanks for posting your findings BobL. Definitely interesting stuff, especially for those of us who are much more inexperienced, and are just looking for a pleasing look.

Not to waste anymore of your time, but if you were ever so bored I'd be curious to see more component calibration settings (guitarman posted his a while back), but I was curious to see some more since it is the only input I can use for a variety of reasons.

Thanks either way!
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post #380 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 06:14 AM
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I'll probably doing the component input soon. Maybe next week, this week is crazy.

Bob
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post #381 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 07:32 AM
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I used BobL's first setting with a Toshiba HD-A1 running to the HD70 over HDMI. My whites weren't white anymore. I fumbled around and set the color temp to 1 instead of 0, and now I have the best picture out of all the other tweaks and suggestions according to my own eyes. The colors seem a little muted, but it is better than looking at sunburnt skin or color saturation. Blonde actors don't have as much green hair as usual which is good too.

Thanks, looking forward to trying the 2nd set of tweaks, but will more than likely sick with the first.
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post #382 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 08:46 AM
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I had the same problem.....blonde hair has a greenish tint. It disappeared from faces but blonde hair tended to look a little green to me.

The problem is when you leave all his RGB numbers in place and go from Color Temp 0 to 1, you're making a big change, not sure what that does for accuracy.

If you want to make whites white, rather than going from color 0 to color 1, try turning BC from zero to one. It may be what you need without affecting the other colors....yeah it blows out white a bit (does this adjust white peaking?)...but it may be what you need. Depends.

I'm going to keep fiddling with the PJ hopefully tonight if I have time.

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post #383 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pipp33 View Post

Thanks for your latest batch of settings BobL! I'm not really going for D65, just trying to get the most pleasing picture for my conditions and eliminate the extra green or red I seem to keep getting.
For hi-def viewing over HDMI, I plugged in your settings, but kept degamma at video, increased brightness to -16 and have been teatering between 0 and 1 for brilliant color. Keeping in mind I'm not trying to reach any spec, just make it look good to me, this has been the best I've seen it yet. Thanks again, look forward to seeing any further numbers you come up with.

-D

I'm in the same boat as you and have also teatering with brilliant color between 0 and 1 I like the added pop in contrast but it seems to add red to skintone for me.
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post #384 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

I'm in the same boat as you and have also teatering with brilliant color between 0 and 1 I like the added pop in contrast but it seems to add red to skintone for me.

I've pretty much decided to stick with BC 1...I picked up a little red, but it was a big improvement from what I was using prior to BobL's second batch of settings. I'm coming from a 4805 and was really happy with the way I had it set up. I'm hoping at some point to get flesh tones to look like that. But, for me, now that I've had 720p at the crib there is no going back! HD and the 360 look so much sharper and have more depth. Just gotta get these flesh tones looking better.

I forgot to mention that I also deviated from 0 to 1 on the color temp.

-D
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post #385 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pipp33 View Post

I've pretty much decided to stick with BC 1...I picked up a little red, but it was a big improvement from what I was using prior to BobL's second batch of settings. I'm coming from a 4805 and was really happy with the way I had it set up. I'm hoping at some point to get flesh tones to look like that. But, for me, now that I've had 720p at the crib there is no going back! HD and the 360 look so much sharper and have more depth. Just gotta get these flesh tones looking better.

I forgot to mention that I also deviated from 0 to 1 on the color temp.

-D

lol....same here on the color temp....with them both at 0 the image just seemed flat and dull...maybe I'm getting used to the pop of this thing because I still think my previous settings of component looked way more lifelike (minus the green hair and at times sunburned skin) than the first set of settings through vga and my HTPC. and yes I messed with the settings on my pc...to no avail... I do realize this insnt HDMI but I couldn't see it making a huge difference.
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post #386 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 10:57 AM
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You should all take a look at a graysteps pattern after applying these settings. The tone of gray across the board will tell you if they're a good match for your projector.

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post #387 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 11:55 AM
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Which Greysteps pattern in Avia are you referring to Tom....

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post #388 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 12:03 PM
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Greyscale RGB gain/bias settings need to vary based on

- starting colortemp preset (three existing ones have magenta, cyan or blue push)
- input type (defaults in fact are way different between component and HDMI)
- gamma curve (including TV) - less an issue on CT1 than CT0 BobL used.
- lamp mode - significant difference as the lamp warms up in brite mode
- Brilliant Color setting - use it and you need to adjust for 75IRE color/greybars - not 100IRE color/greybars being blown out by clear segment.
- [H]RedDogs colorwheel tweak
- factory lamp and burn-in variations.
- auggiedoggy with VGA - the interconnects RGB voltage variations can cause greyscale variations itself. Use DVI if it all possible!

You will be much better off plugging in the other presets - then learning how to tweak RGB color gains using 75/100 IRE colorbars to get CMY right, and color bias using the greyscale patterns. Using others RGB numbers with all of the above making numbers different - means you can easily end up going too far the other way (like red instead of cyan) or fall short (too much blue, not enough green). This is why I never publish RGB numbers - only the other presets that will get you started in the right direction. In general you need to cut Blue/Green gains - use the colorbars to figure out how to balance that out.

BobL's contrast measure is not at all out of line. He can confirm the calibrated drop by reporting his BC9&CT1 ON:OFF value - as there is no iris only white levels change (by same %) - not black levels. Unless the room is significantly light polluted - the ON/OFF contrast is easy to measure - this is not a 15000:1 autoiris after all!
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post #389 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadRusch View Post

Which Greysteps pattern in Avia are you referring to Tom....

There's a bunch, crossed steps, vertical steps, horizontal step. Grayscales and levels I think is where you find them.

I was up early today and tuned up some things.

480p component tuned up at 7.5IRE, 0IRE was crushed out.

Contrast 0
Brightness -14
Color 3

Film gamma
Brilliant C 3
Color temp 1

R gain 12
G gain -3
B gain -3
R bias -1
G bias 0
B bias -1

Shots are 480p DVD I had to tune to the device, brightness needed to be raised. Grayscale tuning was done with the Accupel. Again the Accupel showed 0IRE is crushed. 7.5IRE brought back the needed black bar. Still you need to re-tune brightness etc to the device.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd70crosssteps.jpg (looks a little red on my laptop but not so in person)

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd70universal.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd70columbo.jpg

Tracking was straight from 0IRE to 90IRE 2.22gamma. CR measured 2100.1 AI off.

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post #390 of 2474 Old 10-16-2006, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

There's a bunch, crossed steps, vertical steps, horizontal step. Grayscales and levels I think is where you find them.

I was up early today and tuned up some things.

480p component tuned up at 7.5IRE, 0IRE was crushed out.

Contrast 0
Brightness -14
Color 3

Film gamma
Brilliant C 3
Color temp 1

R gain 12
G gain -3
B gain -3
R bias -1
G bias 0
B bias -1

Shots are 480p DVD I had to tune to the device, brightness needed to be raised. Grayscale tuning was done with the Accupel. Again the Accupel showed 0IRE is crushed. 7.5IRE brought back the needed black bar. Still you need to re-tune brightness etc to the device.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd70crosssteps.jpg (looks a little red on my laptop but not so in person)

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd70universal.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd70columbo.jpg

Tracking was straight from 0IRE to 90IRE 2.22gamma. CR measured 2100.1 AI off.

Ican't wait to try these out tonight as I'm still using 480P component for my dvd's
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