HD1000U Tweakers and Calibration Thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 1453 Old 12-11-2006, 06:21 PM
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pottscb,

I believe the ND2 filters light 50%. If you want more or less you'll need a different filter. I'm using the ND2 filter on my HD1000U (93" matte screen, low lamp) and it noticeably reduces the black level (and of course the whites), though subjectively it doesn't look like 50% to me. I prefer it for now, while the lamp is new and bright.

Check the "ND filters for budget PJs?" thread for more info.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&highlight=nd2
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post #92 of 1453 Old 12-11-2006, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absolutezerok View Post

Mine sticks to 100 when I change sources and resolutions? Am I missing something?

Don't know- mine stays sometimes, but often I'll look at it and it's back on 97%. If you can figure out why yours doesn't, share!!

Don't taze me, bro!!
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post #93 of 1453 Old 12-12-2006, 03:55 PM
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I'm thinking of buying an HD1000U. Does anyone know whether separate calibration setups can be stored for component and HDMI? I can't seem to find that info in the manual.
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post #94 of 1453 Old 12-12-2006, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raybob View Post

I'm thinking of buying an HD1000U. Does anyone know whether separate calibration setups can be stored for component and HDMI? I can't seem to find that info in the manual.

Yes, they can.
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post #95 of 1453 Old 12-12-2006, 05:11 PM
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OK, I just checked and 480p material was at 97% overscan. I don't remember ever changing it to 100% while in 480p so I did just now. While flipping between HD channels and SD channels it stays at 100% now for 480p and 720p...
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post #96 of 1453 Old 12-15-2006, 02:47 PM
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no 100% overscan with s-video input only 97%
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post #97 of 1453 Old 12-16-2006, 12:24 PM
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Interesting, I recalibrated with a panasonic DVD player over component with Avia and the contrast and blacks are in a much more reasonable spectrum than when playing the Avia disc with the 360 over component.

One thing I noticed watching pirates of the carribean though is that all faces were too orange. I turned off Brilliant Color and this helped reduce the orange face problem but I would like to make adjustments to the R, G, B Brightness and Contrast color temp settings but am unsure what to adjust when calibrating with AVIA. I know I have red, green and blue saturation curves in AVIA so I can try to get these to within +/- 5% using each respective filter. However, am I supposed to adjust the brightness or the contrast for each color when using these saturation calibration images?

I have looked in the calibrators thread and found some good gouge on calibrating color but nothing specific to what to adjust for what Mitsubishi designates as the "brightness" and "contrast" parameters in the color temperature menu. I would like to avoid chasing my own tale on making these adjustments if I can since I have the Avia DVD. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

(Good gouge on using Avia in this thread - Thanks to Guy Kuo for its creation:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...highlight=avia)
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post #98 of 1453 Old 12-16-2006, 01:08 PM
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Not the easiest thread to understand, but this gives some explanation of the RGB adjustments:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=754496

On the 1000, the "contrast" settings are for adjusting the brighter parts of the image (just like the overall contrast adjustment). "brightness" is for the lower end. Keep in mind that adjusting one, does has some affect on the other. So if you add a lot of green contrast, you will get some additional green at the low end (that you can see in dark scenes).

One important (and irritating) note is that the "user" color temperature setting does not start with the "warm" preset. It appears to start closer to the "medium" setting, so adjusting from the "user" setting is more difficult that need be (unfortunately).
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post #99 of 1453 Old 12-16-2006, 09:47 PM
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Just got a HD1000u I love the projector but I have noticed that there is a lot of what I can only call noise in all of my sources. The picture appears to have Diagnol lines of noise going horizontally across the picture. There is also a subtle greenish colored drop shadow on many elements of the picture. If this were a rear projected TV I would guess misconvergence.

Are these picture abnormalities from my projector and screen not being lined up correctly or could it be from my long distance component cables? My cables are the premium monoprice 50 ft component cables connected to the monoprice component switcher. If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it. Thanks!
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post #100 of 1453 Old 12-17-2006, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bagel187 View Post

Just got a HD1000u I love the projector but I have noticed that there is a lot of what I can only call noise in all of my sources. The picture appears to have Diagnol lines of noise going horizontally across the picture.

This definitely sounds like interference to me.
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post #101 of 1453 Old 12-17-2006, 11:38 PM
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bump
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post #102 of 1453 Old 12-18-2006, 09:39 AM
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Thanks for the confirmation. I rewired everything to sit closer to the projector and the 6 foot component cables look twice as good as the 50 foot run did.
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post #103 of 1453 Old 12-18-2006, 07:13 PM
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I have a question for you HD1000U pioneers. I have an Optoma H31 right now, which I love. One of the things that I particularly appreciate about it is the ability, via DVI and the standard user menu, to adjust rgb brightness/contrast individually. Does anyone know, via the HD1000U's digital connection, if you have access to the rgb cuts/gains?
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post #104 of 1453 Old 12-18-2006, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FredProgGH View Post

What is "Off" for sharpness on this unit- is it 0 or is it all the way down in the negative numbers. i know, I still haven't cracked the manual *lol* Maybe I'll do that now.

The setting to turn "Off" sharpness is -2. Here is an excerpt from my post in the HD1000 Owners thread.

----------------------
If you have this proj hooked up to an HTPC via HDMI, and want no interference from the proj in terms of sharpness/edge enhancement, then you must set the sharpness setting to -2. Yes, the range goes down to -5, but that only adds to the confusion. I did a test by viewing very fine text on a Windows desktop and confirmed that the "purest" look came at sharpness -2, which seems to turn off any edge enhancement. When changing the sharpness to -3 or lower, I can definitely see edge artifacts creep back in, giving the text a false sense of sharpness.
---------------------

To lewdog, yes, you can adjust the RGB brightness and contrast when hooked up via DVI/HDMI. However, you can't adjust tint or color.
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post #105 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewdog View Post

I have a question for you HD1000U pioneers. I have an Optoma H31 right now, which I love. One of the things that I particularly appreciate about it is the ability, via DVI and the standard user menu, to adjust rgb brightness/contrast individually. Does anyone know, via the HD1000U's digital connection, if you have access to the rgb cuts/gains?

Yes, although color and hue are not which is typical of most projectors.
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post #106 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 06:05 AM
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Do you know why this is? With my H31 and DVE those adjustments were, luckily, right on. I would be kind of bummed, though, to get a projector with those settings fixed at an incorrect point...
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post #107 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 06:48 AM
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On my HD satellite receiver I have the choice of outputting a 1080i or 720p signal. Without being able to see them side by side at the same time, my eyes aren't good enough to tell the difference. I understand the basic difference between progressive and interlaced, I just wish I could see them both at the same time on my projector to compare. Right now I'm using the 720p signal and connecting to the 1000U with component cables.

I wanted to get some opinions on what others prefer, a 1080i or 720p signal, and which should be better with this projector and a component connection.
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post #108 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 07:24 AM
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My HD receiver also allows output at 720p and 1080i. 720p appears to be a SLIGHT bit sharper (if at all), so I just leave it on 720p via component. I haven't got any HDMI sources, so I can't vouch for that...
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post #109 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
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I run my Oppo 970 via HDMI and output a 1080i signal to the 1000U and it "seems" to be a better image. Not sure if this is placebo or not. Ditto for HD cable via component. 1080i switching back and forth just seemed a hair better. Again not sure if it "really" is and I have not changed it since first looking at the different signals a few times...
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post #110 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewdog View Post

Do you know why this is? With my H31 and DVE those adjustments were, luckily, right on. I would be kind of bummed, though, to get a projector with those settings fixed at an incorrect point...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...mi#post7389953

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8724709
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post #111 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 08:23 AM
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Here's a new review of the Mitsubishi HD1000U with in-depth calibration data:

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htf/...d.php?t=248116

Enjoy!
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post #112 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talon95 View Post

Yes, although color and hue are not which is typical of most projectors.

You can adjust the "color" + or - via HDMI when using a HDDVD player , but for some reason I can't via my DTV Samsung receiver which is DVI out with a HDMI plug to the P.J.

Mike
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post #113 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsiebling View Post

Here's a new review of the Mitsubishi HD1000U with in-depth calibration data:

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htf/...d.php?t=248116

Enjoy!

Nice review, but I was hoping "calibration data" meant it would contain adjustments made to the projector to achieve those results.... I don't see that in the review.
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post #114 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyeah View Post

One thing I noticed watching pirates of the carribean though is that all faces were too orange. I turned off Brilliant Color and this helped reduce the orange face problem but I would like to make adjustments to the R, G, B Brightness and Contrast color temp settings but am unsure what to adjust when calibrating with AVIA. I know I have red, green and blue saturation curves in AVIA so I can try to get these to within +/- 5% using each respective filter. However, am I supposed to adjust the brightness or the contrast for each color when using these saturation calibration images?

(Good gouge on using Avia in this thread - Thanks to Guy Kuo for its creation:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...highlight=avia)

The RGB contrast/brightness (usually called offsets/gains) are for adjusting the color of your grayscale. Video is colorized B&W - it is color/tint controls that control the video decoding. And sometimes they might make red too bright - and some projectors will have controls to fix that - Mitsu does not. But the RGB controls are for getting the right amount of red mixed into the grayscale - not for later colorizing the gray with right amount of red video.

YOU DO NOT USE THE RGB BARS/FILTERS IN AVIA WITH THE RGB CONTROLS ON YOUR PROJECTOR.
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post #115 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrustbucket View Post

Nice review, but I was hoping "calibration data" meant it would contain adjustments made to the projector to achieve those results.... I don't see that in the review.

That is because every good calibrator knows the reason they have a job is every PJ is different. Despite them being digital PJ - they still have analog lamps. And every lamp is different. Otherwise ISF would not need to exist - because factory presets would never need adjustment. Even if they calibrate at the factory and save you some money - it will still drift a bit after burn-in - and the 10% videophile would want that last 10% calibrated. The review is doing what it should - which is discuss grayscale/gamma and color gamut performance - that is what calibration measures are about.

talon95 thought his was maybe 10-20% too cyan on grayscale - that review has it maybe 20% too yellow. So posting RGB corrections is meaningless because if yours is too cyanish gray - and you use corrections from one that was too yellowish - you have made yours further away from being calibrated rather than closer. And it will be even worse after 100 hours of burn-in - since lamps generally fade towards cyan - yet you added cyan because you read a review that happened to have a more yellow lamp.


The review is somewhat inaccurate - it makes you think that the yellowish green shown on the 1930's CIE gamut charts matches your visual perception. It does not. CIE in 1976 updated their charts so that blue and red color space is larger than greens and yellows. So while something may look way off in the old chart with yellowish greens yet perfect reds - on the more modern chart you would find that perceptually the reds and greens errors appear not so far apart.

But this is a common trick to increasing PJ brightness - is let green go a bit pale yellow. The amount of error is just overstated in the charts used. And it is useful information to compare to cine4home.com reviews of HC3100 and HC1100 - which has a bit greener green - less yellow. Something you should be able to see in a side by side - but maybe hard to tell otherwise. Certainly none of the shootouts have mentioned it - they may not know to look for this.
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post #116 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 05:39 PM
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One thing I found strange-

I often unplug the power from my projector after turning it off. But I've noticed that if my computer is on (connected to it via HDMI) it still supplies some power to it, because the standby light is faintly on. Is this normal?

Also, does anyone else unplug their power? I came from the world of 4805 where having your pj in constant standby mode is generally a bad idea.
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post #117 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 06:33 PM
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I also saw the light remain on few a few seconds after I unplugged mine while installing it. I don't think it was plugged into the PC at the time though.
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post #118 of 1453 Old 12-19-2006, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krasmuzik View Post

The RGB contrast/brightness (usually called offsets/gains) are for adjusting the color of your grayscale. Video is colorized B&W - it is color/tint controls that control the video decoding. And sometimes they might make red too bright - and some projectors will have controls to fix that - Mitsu does not. But the RGB controls are for getting the right amount of red mixed into the grayscale - not for later colorizing the gray with right amount of red video.

YOU DO NOT USE THE RGB BARS/FILTERS IN AVIA WITH THE RGB CONTROLS ON YOUR PROJECTOR.


krasmuzik - I appreciate the response.

I guess I have two questions in response to your information -

What does one look for to conclude that greyscale needs to be adjusted? Are these controls really only for someone that is trained in using ISF equipment or can a layman like me adjust these controls to attain some desirable visual result?

I think cutting the brilliant color really helped in eliminating the orange and made a more acceptable picture. To be honest, I wonder if what was orange in the face to me was just normal for the film. When watching LOTR or any other movie I did not see this as a problem. I will have to watch POTC on my CRT to see if I notice he same effects.
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post #119 of 1453 Old 12-20-2006, 05:10 PM
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If you want to adjust grayscale visually - the trick is not to adjust using grayscale patterns - but colorbars. Because grayscale impacts the secondary colors (CMY) - you can try to get those looking right. The eye is white adaptive and will get fooled if there are not secondary colors in the image. This assumes that you have a digital RGB source that you know has no tint errors.

Another way is with visual refererence - for example talon95 upgraded from his SP4805 - but kept it so he can do side by side - since Infocus is well know for having very close presets.

The only right way to do it is with colorimeter calibration gear on the grayscale patterns to make sure it is right - then the secondary colors will be right.

Many people make the misconception when they see RGB filters/patterns - and connect them to RGB controls- yet they have NOTHING to do with each other - all you will do is SCREWUP your display.

Brilliant Color is not a contributor to a calibrated image. Leave it off.
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post #120 of 1453 Old 12-20-2006, 06:00 PM
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Thanks for the reply Kras, I will keep this in mind when using the Avia saturation curves.
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