I have about 1515 hours on my HD1000, and obviously it's much dimmer. Do you normally wait until the brightness setting is maxed out in low power mode, and then switch to high power mode? How do you know when to switch to high power mode? Thanks.
Jim McC, I got about a 1000 hours and I can tell it's getting dimmer as well. It doesn't help things when you got a new bright LCD in the next room!! My plan is when I feel the PQ begins to suffer enough I'll switch over to high power mode and then start looking at a bulb replacement. Hope this helps.
Thanks talon95. I don't understand why they even have the Setup option. I know the Off setting definitely adds brightness.
Setup option is for convience with analogue sources. The analogue system for PAL has black at 0 Off, the NTSC system has black at 7.5.
In PAL areas, some dvds, satellite channel films, what have you, are wrongly transcoded NTSC to PAL without changing the black level and some people have players capable of playing imported discs, so it enables them to switch black level easily.
If you select the incorrect setup for your areas analogue, but then calibrate black level using brightness, it should make no difference, you just lose the ability to easily switch between formats.
In practice the different settings seem to have different gamma curves at the near black level.
Thanks dovercat. So what's the best setting to use in the USA when I use component for HD satellite, and HDMI for DVD's?
In theory setup 7.5 for USA NTSC analogue. I do not know what it should be in theory for digital HDMI or HighDefinition sources as the setting is a relic of analogue.
In practice if you calibrate brightness after selecting any of the setup options 0, 3.75 or 7.5 it will have the correct black level, you just lose the ability to easily switch black level between USA NTSC 7.5 and PAL or Japanese NTSC 0ff.
As I mentioned in the previous post, it appears to have an effect on the bottom end of the gamma curve, how apparant shadow detail is. In theory it should not, in practice it does. How obvious you want shadow detail to be depends on viewing environment, as light colored walls and ceiling will bounce light from the screen back onto it washing out the shadow detail. But if it comes out of black too rapidly, shadow detail maybe very obvious, but perceived contrast of bright scenes maybe less.
I own a Mitsubishi XD460U projector, similar software to the HD1000U. I personally use 3.75 then calibrate brightness, despite living in the UK where I should be using PAL Off. My viewing room is a batcave with a white screen.
Can someone give me a good setting. I'm at 1000 hours in low lamp cinema mode and I'm not getting the contrast and brightness I want.
Below is a link to a post I created a while ago in which I collected all of the projector settings at the time. The list is now a little out of date, but plugging in the various settings might help. Keep in mind that no two projectors are identical, so the settings for one person may not work for everyone else.