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post #451 of 2606 Old 01-04-2007, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

I had just tried this calculator and came up with those numbers.. thanks for verifying though... Yeah I'm limitted because in my living room we have these "piers" on each side of the "tv section".. I think the widest I can get the "tv section" is about 69", unless i just have the screen come down and "hide" the piers a bit.. this would be fine for occassional use.. but I have a feeling we'll end up using it very frequently (so the wife wouldnt be happy not being able to see the ent. center etc)..

You mentioned placing it around 9 feet for room.. would this also enable me to perhaps (someday) go with a larger diameter screen (does this involve the zoom factor)... I guess i'd want it placed for 69" but maybe going as high as say 80".. I dont know if placing it in such a way would diminish the quality/brightness on a 69" image though.

Thanks again

screen size is measured diagnolly...remember this especially if you purchase a screen for it.
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post #452 of 2606 Old 01-04-2007, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

screen size is measured diagnolly...remember this especially if you purchase a screen for it.

Yep thanks.. 69 was diag though.. so should be good to go

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post #453 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EocThermos View Post

If you look on the online or mitsubishi calculator, there should be a range of distance.

I just plugged in your numbers to the mitsu calc: 8.2 feet would be the closest you can get. The second projector on the calculator represents the farthest distance- in this case 119.2 or just under 10 feet. I would reccommend mounting at about 9 feet, giving you a little room to play around with fitting the image size, if you are certain you can never fit a screen larger than 69 inches. And I agree, 69 is a bit small, especially if you will have some lighting. If the room will be dark most of the time, then I would prefer front projection over rear because of the cost and the viewing angle, but with some ambient lighting... not sure how well it will work.

edit: thanks for the correction augiedoggy- I was going based off what I had read, which apparently was inaccurate.

Either way, the end result of "try both and see which looks better" is the same



I have more exact numbers now.. turns out the ceiling is 7' 3"... I have a bit of delemma though... The spot where I will pull the screen down.. is supposed to sit just above the center "console" where my existing 27" sits.. (opening is 60" across in width).. this width is fine and all.. but the height on the console is 26").. according to the Mitsu calculator.. it puts the bottom of the screen at around 38.4" (with a 1" pole)... or about 12" higher than I want it (it would cover up a shelf/center speaker etc.. forcing me to go perforated and have the wife be upset (LOL))...

I'm trying to keep the "pole" length at 1" if not less.. as we have these wooden 5.5" beams (down from the ceiling) and they make a nice "cover" to sortof hide the projector from view.. when its placed in front of the viewing spot (I've already got the wife upset as to hanging another device in plain view).

As far as I can see.. the only way to get the bottom side of the screen to be at the top of the "tv" console/stand.. is to lower the projector down more (13 or more inch pole).. this is especially undesirable, as it would be an obstacle..

If I placed the projector behind our viewing area.. it appears it would force the screen to be on the floor.

I guess there arent alot of alternatives here (?) or would having the projector at that 8.2 foot spot, a 1" pole, be fine.. i could just somehow aim the image downward another 12" or does that mess up the picture and setup some how (or maybe move the projector back to say 9 foot (lowering the bottom position of the screen?).

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post #454 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 08:37 AM
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The bulb on my 4805 just went out and I was going to replace it with this projector. I currently have the 4805 wall mounted. Can I just replace it and use the same universal mount? Will picture position be pretty similar? I haven't measured, but I think the projector is about 18-20' from the screen.
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post #455 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 09:03 AM
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You could get an adjustable pole mount from mountdirect probably, which is what I had to do. Based on where I wanted the screen for my setup my pole needs to be 16.6 inches, but I got an adjustable NPL mount so I can raise it up to 11" when not in use. At least this way we can walk under it with an 8' ceiling.

Chris
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post #456 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 09:07 AM
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Adjustable pole mount?
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post #457 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 09:11 AM
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Yeah, here's a link: http://www.mountdirect.com/Mitsubish...unt_s/1430.htm

Click on either the NPL or PMS mount and you'll have the options to select an additional adjustable pole mount. I got the NPL with the 11-18" adjustable pole, but I think they have a 0-? so many inches as well.

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post #458 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 09:44 AM
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Just got my "new" HD1000U in the mail today. Bought it from projectorplace, they were out of stock so it was drop shipped directly from Mitsubishi. I'm perplexed that such a popular model would have such a low serial number. My serial number is only 00017xx, does that seem right to you all? I hope I didn't get stuck with a refurb at full price. Haven't hooked it up yet, but I will shortly.
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post #459 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 12:47 PM
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Just got my new HD1000 yesterday! I only had about an hour last night to plug it in and make sure everything worked. But I thought I would share some initial impressions.

I am upgrading from an Optoma H27 which I have had for a little over a year. I love my H27, it's a great little unit but I have two issues with it.

The first issue is the screen door effect. I think I am overly sensitive to SDE. I sit 14 feet back from a 77.5 inch wide screen - that's almost 2.2x screen width and I still see SDE at times.

The second issue is overall brightness. This was the real biggie for me. I think for most people, brightness wouldn't be that much of an issue with the H27 but I happen to prefer a really bright image. And I have to deal with a lot of ambient light. Our viewing room is a family room with 3 large windows, a 6ft wide sliding glass door, and 2 big skylights! And the ceiling and two of the walls are bright glossy white. Not ideal for a home theater by any stretch.

For my budget I was looking at the Optoma HD70 and the HD1000. I decided on the HD1000 because it was said to be brighter in the best modes. And I was able to get it for $100 less than the HD70.

Based on reviews I read, I was expecting quite a jump in brightness going from the H27 to the HD1000. According to the pros the H27 puts out about 250-350 lumens in its best modes. The HD1000 is said to put out around 650 in its dimmest mode. I'm not sure what kind of lumens I have been getting from my H27. The lamp is new (about 100 hours) and I run it in high mode. I also have gamma at the highest setting and I have the RGB values (over component) pushed as high as I can stand while still getting a decent picture. Needless to say my whites are crushing and black level is poor at these settings. But as I said I REALLY like a bright image. And I much prefer higher shadow detail over darker blacks, but that's just me.

So I was all set to be blown away by the brightness of the HD1000. So what was my initial feeling after firing it up for the first time? I was disappointed. ???? But not for long thankfully!

For reference here is a bit about my setup:
Screen: 89 Do-Able DIY matte white ~1.0 gain
DVD Player: Sony DVD-NS70H upconverting player with HDMI
H27 connected via component 480p
HD1000 connected via HDMI 720p (upconverted by player)

I won't list all my current settings on the H27 (because I can't remember them all) except what I mentioned above. I didn't make any changes to the default settings in the HD1000 except to switch to low lamp mode.

The H27 is ceiling mounted and I placed the new HD1000 on a low table so both were shooting on the same screen. I used the screen blanking feature to shut off the H27's image so I could just see the HD1000 at first.

The first thing I did was put in the DVD Ever After. This one I felt was very dim on the H27. And this is where my initial disappointment came in. I was hoping that the Mits would make this dim movie look bright. It didn'tand at first it didn't seem that it was any brighter than it was on the H27. So I played with a few settings like moving gamma to video and bumping brightness a bit and it seemed better. But I was disappointed because it wasn't blowing me away with brightness like I had hoped. So I blanked the HD1000 and unblanked the H27. It takes a bit to switch over and so it was hard to compare the two. The HD1000 was indeed brighter for this movie, but not as bright as I wanted it. But maybe I wanted more than was there in the first place.

I switched back to the HD1000 and moved on to Finding Nemo. There are a few spots in this movie that seemed dim to me on the H27 and few places where the whites were crushed because of my settings. Things were looking better here. I still wasn't being blown away by the brightness but it looked good and the whites weren't crushed at all. And I noticed deeper blacks coupled with greater shadow detail in one scene as compared to what I remember on the H27 - though I didn't check it at the time.

I was running out of time and had to move on. Next I put in Fellowship of the Ring and went to a couple of scenes to check white crush and brightness. It all seemed pretty good but I still wasn't blown away.

Then I tried something. I swiveled the H27 in its ceiling mount so that it was only shooting on the left half of the screen. And I moved the HD1000 so it was on the right half. Now I could see both at the same time even though the images were very skewed.

Now it was time to be blown away!

Seeing them side-by-side the difference was dramatic. The contrast, black level, shadow detail, color rendering, and 3d look of the HD1000 was definitely better. I could easily see how my quest for brightness on the H27 had led me to a very poor image - at least compared to the HD1000.

The other very dramatic difference was screen door! I had been concentrating so much on the brightness that I didn't realize that I couldn't see the pixelsat all. Seeing them side by side really showed the difference a 720p panel makes compared to a 480p. I had to get about 4 feet from the screen before the pixels were obvious on the HD1000.

That was all I had time for last night but I'm thinking that I will be very happy with my upgrade. And this is with out of the box settings. We will see if I can improve things ever more after some fiddling. And I'll report back after actually watching some movies.
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post #460 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 12:56 PM
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Great review! I'm hoping the do-able board will make a substantial difference over our rough finished beige wall it's shooting on right now, and I'm glad to see you say it's about a 1 gain with the do-able.

Chris

P.S. If I decide to run in standard lamp mode and in th sports setting, that's probably going to lead to the shortest bulb life, right?
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post #461 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ravencr View Post

Great review! I'm hoping the do-able board will make a substantial difference over our rough finished beige wall it's shooting on right now, and I'm glad to see you say it's about a 1 gain with the do-able.

Chris

P.S. If I decide to run in standard lamp mode and in th sports setting, that's probably going to lead to the shortest bulb life, right?

The do-able board is great! Its so cheap you can't afford not to try it.

I read a post somewhere from a guy who had all the fancy instuments and tech training and he determined that the gain of do-able was 1.03

The stadard setting for the lamp will definitely shorten its life compared to low but I'm not sure if the gamma settings effect lamp life or not.
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post #462 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ravencr View Post

Yeah, here's a link: http://www.mountdirect.com/Mitsubish...unt_s/1430.htm

Click on either the NPL or PMS mount and you'll have the options to select an additional adjustable pole mount. I got the NPL with the 11-18" adjustable pole, but I think they have a 0-? so many inches as well.

Chris


That may be an option in my case.. I'm still curious though, if the calculator says that for a pole length of 1" and say 9 feet back.. the bottom of the screen will be 34" high from the ground... cant I just point the image downward a bit to get at my 26" desired bottom of the screen height.. or does this mess up the image in some way (this way I keep the main unit flush with my 5.25" beam in the ceiling, or nearly flush, almost "hidden")...

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post #463 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillRob View Post

Just got my new HD1000 yesterday! I only had about an hour last night to plug it in and make sure everything worked. But I thought I would share some initial impressions.

I am upgrading from an Optoma H27 which I have had for a little over a year. I love my H27, it's a great little unit but I have two issues with it.

The first issue is the screen door effect. I think I am overly sensitive to SDE. I sit 14 feet back from a 77.5 inch wide screen - that's almost 2.2x screen width and I still see SDE at times.

The second issue is overall brightness. This was the real biggie for me. I think for most people, brightness wouldn't be that much of an issue with the H27 but I happen to prefer a really bright image. And I have to deal with a lot of ambient light. Our viewing room is a family room with 3 large windows, a 6ft wide sliding glass door, and 2 big skylights! And the ceiling and two of the walls are bright glossy white. Not ideal for a home theater by any stretch.

For my budget I was looking at the Optoma HD70 and the HD1000. I decided on the HD1000 because it was said to be brighter in the best modes. And I was able to get it for $100 less than the HD70.

Based on reviews I read, I was expecting quite a jump in brightness going from the H27 to the HD1000. According to the pros the H27 puts out about 250-350 lumens in its best modes. The HD1000 is said to put out around 650 in its dimmest mode. I'm not sure what kind of lumens I have been getting from my H27. The lamp is new (about 100 hours) and I run it in high mode. I also have gamma at the highest setting and I have the RGB values (over component) pushed as high as I can stand while still getting a decent picture. Needless to say my whites are crushing and black level is poor at these settings. But as I said I REALLY like a bright image. And I much prefer higher shadow detail over darker blacks, but that's just me.

So I was all set to be blown away by the brightness of the HD1000. So what was my initial feeling after firing it up for the first time? I was disappointed. ???? But not for long thankfully!

For reference here is a bit about my setup:
Screen: 89 Do-Able DIY matte white ~1.0 gain
DVD Player: Sony DVD-NS70H upconverting player with HDMI
H27 connected via component 480p
HD1000 connected via HDMI 720p (upconverted by player)

I won't list all my current settings on the H27 (because I can't remember them all) except what I mentioned above. I didn't make any changes to the default settings in the HD1000 except to switch to low lamp mode.

The H27 is ceiling mounted and I placed the new HD1000 on a low table so both were shooting on the same screen. I used the screen blanking feature to shut off the H27's image so I could just see the HD1000 at first.

The first thing I did was put in the DVD Ever After. This one I felt was very dim on the H27. And this is where my initial disappointment came in. I was hoping that the Mits would make this dim movie look bright. It didn'tand at first it didn't seem that it was any brighter than it was on the H27. So I played with a few settings like moving gamma to video and bumping brightness a bit and it seemed better. But I was disappointed because it wasn't blowing me away with brightness like I had hoped. So I blanked the HD1000 and unblanked the H27. It takes a bit to switch over and so it was hard to compare the two. The HD1000 was indeed brighter for this movie, but not as bright as I wanted it. But maybe I wanted more than was there in the first place.

I switched back to the HD1000 and moved on to Finding Nemo. There are a few spots in this movie that seemed dim to me on the H27 and few places where the whites were crushed because of my settings. Things were looking better here. I still wasn't being blown away by the brightness but it looked good and the whites weren't crushed at all. And I noticed deeper blacks coupled with greater shadow detail in one scene as compared to what I remember on the H27 - though I didn't check it at the time.

I was running out of time and had to move on. Next I put in Fellowship of the Ring and went to a couple of scenes to check white crush and brightness. It all seemed pretty good but I still wasn't blown away.

Then I tried something. I swiveled the H27 in its ceiling mount so that it was only shooting on the left half of the screen. And I moved the HD1000 so it was on the right half. Now I could see both at the same time even though the images were very skewed.

Now it was time to be blown away!

Seeing them side-by-side the difference was dramatic. The contrast, black level, shadow detail, color rendering, and 3d look of the HD1000 was definitely better. I could easily see how my quest for brightness on the H27 had led me to a very poor image - at least compared to the HD1000.

The other very dramatic difference was screen door! I had been concentrating so much on the brightness that I didn't realize that I couldn't see the pixelsat all. Seeing them side by side really showed the difference a 720p panel makes compared to a 480p. I had to get about 4 feet from the screen before the pixels were obvious on the HD1000.

That was all I had time for last night but I'm thinking that I will be very happy with my upgrade. And this is with out of the box settings. We will see if I can improve things ever more after some fiddling. And I'll report back after actually watching some movies.

Nice review as well.. curious.. when you did these comparisons.. how was the ambient lighting in the room at the time... ie: low, moderate, high etc

My situation will have some minor to moderate ambient lighting as well (at certain times when I cant just turn off all the lights).. maybe not as much as yours though.

Mark

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post #464 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 01:28 PM
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It will flare out the bottom of the image on your screen, but it might not be all that noticable. There is a setting within the HD1000U that moves the image up or down too, but I think people say to stay away from doing that, because it messes with the image quality some. Not totally sure, though. I'm a total newbie on this stuff.

Chris
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post #465 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 01:32 PM
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Yes you can do that and yes it will distort the image. If you angle it down, the top of the image will be narrower than the bottom. I believe you can fix this with keystone correction- but that will distort the image. Some have said that with minor keystone, they don't even notice a difference. Others have said that the difference is huge even at the lowest setting.
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post #466 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 01:32 PM
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I just received my HD 1000 and I am wondering if the unit has a problem. While the fan is fairly quiet compared to my 4805, there is a very annoying sound coming out of the projector when it is on. It is a continuous high buzz. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this problem?

Thanks
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post #467 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Nice review as well.. curious.. when you did these comparisons.. how was the ambient lighting in the room at the time... ie: low, moderate, high etc

My situation will have some minor to moderate ambient lighting as well (at certain times when I cant just turn off all the lights).. maybe not as much as yours though.

Mark

I had the lights off most of the time and it was after dark so the only ambient light was coming from reflections off the white walls and light colored carpet and floor.

I did turn on the lights (4 halogen sconces on a dimmer swtich) at various intensities to see how it looked. It seemed pretty good but I didn't play too much with that.
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post #468 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doubichou View Post

I just received my HD 1000 and I am wondering if the unit has a problem. While the fan is fairly quiet compared to my 4805, there is a very annoying sound coming out of the projector when it is on. It is a continuous high buzz. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this problem?

Thanks

Hmmm....I noticed the same thing with mine. It was like a high pitched whine. It went away when I set the lamp to low mode. I thought it was normal. Maybe it wasn't. I was sitting right next the pj when I did this last night. Once I take down the H27 and mount the HD1000 on the ceiling I will see if I can still hear the whine in normal lamp mode.

Has anyone else notices this?

Overall the HD1000 is a bit louder than my H27.
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post #469 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 02:01 PM
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I really liked my new 42" flat-panel LCD, honestly I did. I suppose it will look nice in the bedroom now. I'm currently projecting on, but not completely filling, a piece of sheetrock 4' x 7' that is unpainted. Before the projector got here, my wife didn't want me even hooking it up in the living room. Now she wants to know when I'm getting a real screen and hanging the projector from the ceiling permanently in here. Glad I got that lamp warranty now.

I haven't done anything other than put the lamp on low and set the gamma mode to "sports". I lowered the brightness since the pic is still a bit small. I have to say that it's absolutely beautiful. I can only imagine how nice (and bright) it would be on a smooth surface with at least a 1.0 gain.
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post #470 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 02:35 PM
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Killrob:

a high pitched whine is a great description of what I am hearing. I did put the lamp in the low mode and it is still there. I am also waiting for my ceilling mount so I will post back once I get it installed.
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post #471 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 02:49 PM
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I started a new thread to ask this, but maybe this is the best thread to post my question since there are some HD1000 owners posting here. I am looking at upgrading from an X1 and going to the HD1000U. However, I can't preview the Mits, I can only read the posts. What I can see is RPTV's at the retail stores. Some of these units, even up to 65 in, when set up properly have a very detailed, bright, almost 3D appearance. Have any of you Mits HD1000U owners seen any of the new RPTV's. If so, how do you think the picture on the HD1000 compares with the RPTV's?
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post #472 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EocThermos View Post

Yes you can do that and yes it will distort the image. If you angle it down, the top of the image will be narrower than the bottom. I believe you can fix this with keystone correction- but that will distort the image. Some have said that with minor keystone, they don't even notice a difference. Others have said that the difference is huge even at the lowest setting.

if you look for it you will see the distortion especially on sharp text...thats how I found out that even overscan messes with the image clarity..if I ajusted it while text from my htpc I could clearly see blurry lines of text evenly spaced out avery 4 or 5 lines or so...must be were the scaler chooses to compress or stretch the image.
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post #473 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 02:53 PM
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FPTV will look as good as RPTV with bigger screen size. Of course it's not as bright so needs better light control over RPTV.

Huey ;-]
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post #474 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLW65 View Post

I started a new thread to ask this, but maybe this is the best thread to post my question since there are some HD1000 owners posting here. I am looking at upgrading from an X1 and going to the HD1000U. However, I can't preview the Mits, I can only read the posts. What I can see is RPTV's at the retail stores. Some of these units, even up to 65 in, when set up properly have a very detailed, bright, almost 3D appearance. Have any of you Mits HD1000U owners seen any of the new RPTV's. If so, how do you think the picture on the HD1000 compares with the RPTV's?


I saw a mitsubishi 60" rptv monster at Fry's over the holiday running a 1080p demo and can say that my HD1000U on a 120" screen (when running hd content such as discovery hd) is extremely close to it in quality. The only real difference is the black levels might not be as dark. It's funny to realize that when I'm watching sports center the anchors are pretty much life size so you get a whole new feeling for watching even sports news. I wish foxnews and such were in HD on DirecTV. If you're ever in texas feel free to drop me a message and I'd be more than happy to demo it for you! (I'm that proud of it)
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post #475 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLW65 View Post

I started a new thread to ask this, but maybe this is the best thread to post my question since there are some HD1000 owners posting here. I am looking at upgrading from an X1 and going to the HD1000U. However, I can't preview the Mits, I can only read the posts. What I can see is RPTV's at the retail stores. Some of these units, even up to 65 in, when set up properly have a very detailed, bright, almost 3D appearance. Have any of you Mits HD1000U owners seen any of the new RPTV's. If so, how do you think the picture on the HD1000 compares with the RPTV's?

in a dark room my hd70 which has a close picture but not quite as bright to the hd100u blows the RPtv's away. In fact after seeing my setup last week my uncle is now trying to convince his wife that thier 60" RP dlp set should go in the basement rec room and they should put a FP system like mine in the living room.

but If your going to do a lot of viewing in the light (I don't mean like one lamp on in the room at night either.) then RP is the way to go IMHO.
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post #476 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Doubichou View Post

Killrob:

a high pitched whine is a great description of what I am hearing. I did put the lamp in the low mode and it is still there. I am also waiting for my ceilling mount so I will post back once I get it installed.

Well, now you have me second guessing myself. Maybe the whine just got quieter when I swtiched to low mode. I will have to check it out.

Again - anyone else out there hearing this whine?
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post #477 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 03:11 PM
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My Z2 is getting long in the tooth and looking at the Mits. Question, I have treyed ceilings in my basement so was thinking of cutting a whole in the side of the trey and building a box larger than the projector so I can move it side to side to line up the screen as well as up and down to line up with the screen. Since it has to be upside down any ideas on adjustable feet to put the projector on. In other words turn it upside down, put four feet on the base of the box and lay the projector upside down on the feet, could get it lined up exactly with the screen that way. The box by the way would be mounted in the side of the trey and I could do some moulding around it so it was flush with the trey.
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post #478 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by brianbes View Post

My Z2 is getting long in the tooth and looking at the Mits. Question, I have treyed ceilings in my basement so was thinking of cutting a whole in the side of the trey and building a box larger than the projector so I can move it side to side to line up the screen as well as up and down to line up with the screen. Since it has to be upside down any ideas on adjustable feet to put the projector on. In other words turn it upside down, put four feet on the base of the box and lay the projector upside down on the feet, could get it lined up exactly with the screen that way. The box by the way would be mounted in the side of the trey and I could do some moulding around it so it was flush with the trey.

4 little rubber bushings with some extra washers could do the trick. Home Depot or an auto supply store should have them.
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post #479 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doubichou View Post

Killrob:

a high pitched whine is a great description of what I am hearing. I did put the lamp in the low mode and it is still there. I am also waiting for my ceilling mount so I will post back once I get it installed.

I had a 3000u previously that started doing this after about a week. It's probably the color wheel.
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post #480 of 2606 Old 01-05-2007, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by talon95 View Post

I had a 3000u previously that started doing this after about a week. It's probably the color wheel.

Was there a fix? Did you have to send it in for warranty repair?

And if it is the colorwheel then it shouldn't change when switching between normal and low lamp modes correct?

Now its gonna bug me until I can get home and listen to it again and see if the lamp mode really made a difference.
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