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post #1 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 01:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I noticed there are tweaks listed for the Z4, but not any for the Z5. First let me say that I am not a professional at this, but I do believe I have an excellent eye for detail and color. I highlighted the settings in a greenish yellow color for those that want to skip my wordy mumbo jumbo and get right to the settings.

I do not think the Z4 tweak threads completely apply to the Z5, as the Z5's color accuracy, lens options, and brightness differs somewhat from the Z4, which means the settings will differ as well. So below I give my opinions for others to experiment with, and hopefully others will contribute as well (maybe even with better suggestions than I have). I have tried a calibration CD, and what I found was that it made faces look really natural, but I did not always like the colors across the board for every type of viewing after the calibration CD. I have also found that different channels are skewing the settings of the color calibration (even different HD channels). I therefore find myself adjusting the picture depending NOT only on what type of content I am watching, but also what channel I am watching (go figure). Whether this be sports, scenery (like Discovery HD), or movies. Of course a professional calibration wrould likely provide an even better starting point, but not all of us wish to go this route (I am saving my money for 1080p eventually).


First my setup:
Screen: Apollo 1.0 Gain White Matte 70" Diagonal 16:9 Screen (have an 84" elite but haven't had a chance to mount it yet). I also have an off-white wall that I have projected large images onto, up to 130" or so.
Sitting Distance: about 10 feet to 12.5 feet (varies with my recliner)
Mount: Mounted at 5' high on a shelf and image is projected at virtually perfect centered angle (no keystone usage and only 2-4 slides/clicks of image shift)
Media Formats I use Time Warner HD Cable and have about 10 HD channels. I also have an HTPC (home theater PC), and a Pioneer progressive DVD player (480p)
Lamp Usage: Currently at 120 hours of lamp from when I first bought the projector
Cable Box and Hookup Methods I use the Scientifica Atlanta 8300 HD-DVR over HDMI connection. I have also tried component and I saw no difference in PQ. I have tried VGA and HDMI for my HTPC and saw no difference between the two here either. (let me stress I did not do a live comparison of these though)
Ambient and Reflective Light Conditions I have a pretty dark viewing environment, as all windows are blocked with blackout curtains. However, I do not quite have a "black hole" for a viewing room, as the room has beige carpet and white walls. There is not much light reflection because the only wall close enough to reflect any has black curtains on it to stop this. I would say my setup is a 7 or 8 out of a possible 10 as far as blocking ambient light, with a 9 or 10 being black carpet with black walls, etc...


Does the brightness noticeably fade over time from lamp usage?
One thing to take note of is that your pre-100 hour calibration will differ from your post-100 hour calibration (this is not exact but it is a good standard estimate for when most brightness change takes place). The brightness does drop off quite significantly once you get over 100 hours, but the projector does still have enough brightness at this point (even for 100" screen). Some people have said they cannot tell it has changed in brightness, but I can easily tell. You may want to get a 1.5 gain screen for 92" or more (not necessary but may give you more kick for the life of the bulb). Under 92" you probably want to stick with a 1.0 gain screen. As stated above, I currently have 120 hours on the projector's lamp, so I cannot say if the brightness fades further after this point.

Getting Started on adjusting for the BEST PQ
The biggest problem with the Z5 is definitely the color accuracy, which is why I generally recommend starting with either Creative Cinema or Natural Mode and
then going from there. These 2 modes seem to have more accurate colors as compared to the other modes, even if the reds are still off in these modes (which is not bothersome to me). You can of course base your adjustments from any factory preset, but the above is simply my recommendation based on what I have found by experimenting. One thing worth noting is I used to prefer Creative Cinema, but after 100 hours of lamp usage, I seem to get better results starting my tweaking from "natural mode".

Skip this paragraph if you are not a newbie
For those unfamiliar with the Z5, the way you change colors based on a factory pre-set is by saving your custom settings into a user pre-set (there are 4 user modes you can store your own tweaks in) . Changing the factory preset never actually changes it, so you will need to store any changes you make in one of those 4 user slots. The 4 user modes are located in the same menu as the factory Modes (keep scrolling down and you will see them after going down below Vivid setting). So you choose a factory pre-set mode (like Natural), make your own adjustments, and then from the "image adj." menu you click "store". From this point on it is self-explanatory.

Continuing on...
Your settings will of course vary due to sitting distance, ambient light conditions, lamp usage time, personal preferences, and various other reasons... Even though this is all true, I still think this might help some people since I am on a pretty standard setup in a dark room. I have given a range of settings in most cases, since I believe most people will find the sweet spots somewhere close to this range.

Scenery / IMAX Type Viewing:
I find the below settings look good for IMAX or scenery type viewing, as well as other viewing. For non-scenery viewing you will want to tone down the color saturation (color temp and color).

Start with Natural Mode by choosing this from the first menu (Image)...
Next, go to the Z5's second menu (Image Adj.) and begin changing the below

Color Temp = Mid or High I usually set this to "High", but sometimes use "Mid". I find it provides a superior starting point over the other options. Going to Low1 or lower adds more orange to the picture (warmer color temperature), while the highest settings (med or high) give a cooler color temperature
Color +5 to +20 (depends on your preference of color saturation) Adding more color will give more punch by making all those leaves look greener, butterflies will have more color, etc... Even if this is somewhat of a fake addition, I use +10 to +20 sometimes just to see the color pop. This doesn't usually make animals or scenery look fake, but it can make people look bad. You will likely need to tone this down for normal viewing, but for the most pop try raising during a few scenes to see just what this Z5 can do. It truely can provide some incredible color pop in this situation!

Contrast +5 to +25 You will get a more punchy and less washed out image once you find the correct balance between brightness and contrast. If you see crushed whites, which can show up as shiny spots on someone's face, or clouds in the sky that have too much of a solid look, then you need to re-adjust your contrast or brightness in some cases. However, there is some trade off in getting the punchiest image, which may cause some things like clouds to look crushed and lack detail. The problem is at least in part the nature of light in general, as clouds are often reflecting the sunlight back to the lens, so this area of the image will be very sensitive to contrast. Attempt to get the contrast levels where things appear acceptable in most situations, without too many shiny spots or crushed whites. Generally a higher contrast combined with a lower brightness will provide a better picture, as it will give the picture a higher contrast range/ratio overall.
Brightness - 20 to + 10 (really depends on lamp usage and personal preferences, that is why I gave a huge range, at first you may go down even more). Mine is set at 0 to +10 usually, since my lamp is already worn in.

Gamma = 0 I left this at the default since this basically appears to primarily change brightness and contrast as a sort of all-in-one setting. This can be useful to adjust if you are having a hard time finding your sweet spot for brightness and contrast.
Lamp Iris = -30 This is another setting that affects brightness, I leave this at -30. I believe where you set this also affects how much room you are giving the automatic iris to move on its own (that is if you have the automatic iris enabled, see below under advanced)
Lamp Mode Economy Why use anything else since this makes the lamp last longer, you can simply adjust the brightness to compensate.
Progressive = L1 I leave this at L1/default, as L2 caused me some fringing. I did not see much difference in PQ with it off or on L1 however.
Sharpness = 0 I did not notice any difference between the full range of sharpness settings, but some do suggest setting this to -6 to reduce image noise and edge fringing. I actually leave mine at the default setting of 0.

I did not find many of the other settings in the standard menu that useful, but you may wish to add individual color correction or changes to the tint settings.

Change to the Image Adj. Advanced Menu (same menu as image adj. but click advanced)
Lamp Iris = Open This is where you can change it to automatic if you wish, but I really do not like it on automatic as I can hear it change and it makes some scenes too dark. Although I do sit only a foot away from the projector, so this is probably why. I did not notice that much difference in black levels with it set to Auto 1 or Auto 2, all I really noticed was a difference in brightness across the board. Feel free to experiment of course, just my observations.
Auto Black Stretch = Off Saw no noticeable differences either way.
Contrast Enhancement = Off This basically provides a small tweak to increase contrast by either raising or lowering brightness slightly (I do not think it changes like the iris, but it is a one-time set it and forget it. The setting did not appear to cause any harm to the picture, but I leave this OFF generally. You might try to use L1 to L3 if you like the picture it gives you.
Transient Improvement = L1 This is one of the few "effects" I do like. What this does is add a sharpness filter, similar to adding sharpness in a program like Paint Shop Pro or Adobe Photoshop. I would turn this off for video games or animated viewing, since this type of material is already at maximum sharpness. Also note that anything beyond L1 became a bit too much in some video scenes, but L1 seemed to provide that extra oomph of overall clarity, without making the image look pixelated or grainy. You may notice a tiny bit more pixelated look on some scenes, but I did not really notice any bad traits to the image, and to me it was worth any barely visible trade off. For instance, I noticed with Transient set to L1 that all the underwater fish shots in the Coral Reef Imax adventure looked sharper, more detailed, and a good bit clearer.
Color List = 0 I usually leave this at default, although it is a useful setting. It further alters your color settings to provide some corrective abilities. I noticed setting this to other color lists can help faces look more natural in some respects. It basically just changes the RGB scales a bit automatically. Remember though, the settings I am providing here are for an emphasis on scenery and color pop, while preserving the natural look as much as possible. You can experiment with the Color List all you want without seemingly causing any major changes to your actual viewing experience (other than the color scale of course).
Dynamic Gamma = Off This setting basically goes along with the automatic Iris, I am guessing this is part of the second IRIS / automatic brightness adjustment. I prefer this off because I like to keep my brightness pretty uniform for the most part. An irony is that on really dark scenes I don't always want better blacks because sometimes it loses detail to the point of not seeing anything! You can mess around with this and all the other Iris settings without seemingly causing any major differences in viewing experience (other than a bit of sound coming from the iris moving).

With the above settings as a reference, I mainly only feel the need to adjust the "color" (color saturation) and brightness when viewing different material. For sports or sitcom viewing (like Miami: CSI for example), then I usually lower the colors back down to somewhere around -10 to +5, and I may raise or lower the brightness depending on what I am watching.

The Z5 manual will also explain each setting somewhat, although it could be a little more detailed at times. You may want to consult the manual for more specifics. I hope some of this proves useful. Remember, this is just based on my own experiences and my own viewing environment, so constructive comments are welcome.



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post #2 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 03:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Another important item - Loud or whiny fan:
I noticed the lamp being louder when my room temperature got to around 75 (I usually keep the room around 72 Farenheit). I then heard a relatively quiet, but yet high-pitched whining sound, but don't worry about this if you hear it, and don't send your projector back just yet. Just let it run for a few minutes and it usually goes away. You can either lower the brightness or turn your A/C up and this will also make the lamp quieter. The room temperature affects the fan speed and noise as the fan is temperature controlled. A cooler room makes for cooler parts inside the projector, which then makes for a lower fan speed (quieter).



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post #3 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 04:04 AM
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Thank you for starting this thread, it will help new Z5 owners (even thought I'm not one of them - at least not yet). Regarding your room temperature comment: since lamp tempertures are very high (around the lamp itself), the cooler the room, the longer the lamp life will be. In general, I try to never run my PJs (over the years) when my room temperature ecceeds 75 degrees (F). At this time of year, my LR/HT is usually around 65 to 68 degrees (yes we like it cool). The big problem was in the summer time, when it could get up to 85 degrees inside (which is why I bought a room A/C). Keeping the air filter clean will also help the air flow, and proling the life of the lamp.

I spent 13 years as a reliability engineer in the spacecraft industry. The probability of part failure increases by a factor of 2 for every 8 degrees C = 14.4 degrees F. Therefore, operating the PJ at 80 degrees instead of 70 degrees will have a very large effect on the life of the lamp, as well as the other electronic parts in the PJ.

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post #4 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 06:48 AM
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coderguy, thanks a lot for taking the time to create this thread and post in detail about your settings! i just got my Z5 last Friday and love it so far. i'm looking forward to trying out your settings sometime this week.
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post #5 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 07:30 AM
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I have a question for you tweakers. Have any of you seen one of the later model DLP projectors like the HD2+ chips or the Darkchip2 or Darkchip3's? I am wondering how you think you're tweaked out picture compares in terms of black level punch and overall brightness.

Best Regards,
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post #6 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I had compared and reviewed a Mitsubishi HD 1000 (DC2 no auto-iris) vs the Z5 (LCD w/ auto-iris). The Z5 beat the black levels of the HD 1000 90% of the time even with the Z5's auto-iris off, this being while the lamps were still new. I only ran the HD1000 for 4 hours, but I can tell you that the current black levels of the Z5 after burn-in (125 lamp hours) will beat a new lamp on the 1000U likely every time.

At this point, I don't think I've once seen an image and said to myself - "darn these black levels", actually quite the opposite. A very bright outer space image of the earth looked incredible, and the black space surrounding the earth was plenty black, even with the image brightness fairly high and setup to give a really good punch. The only time the blacks suffer at all is if there is spaced out white spots or a really bright image in the black (the sun in space for instance), but you do not notice it at this point because the overall scene has too much light anyhow.

The DLP's will have a little more color punch in some cases, but I don't think it is significant. I prefer LCD over DLP naturally, so I am biased, but I am not biased on the black-level front, and the Z5 has incredible black levels. I think anyone complaining about the Z5's black-levels did not run the lamp for at least 100 hours, at first the Z5's blacks aren't near as good (but still acceptable).

Black levels are VERY important to a point, but I think once you get to the Z5's black level capabilities, any further improvement is a pretty minor increase in picture quality. You can also enable the auto-iris and lower brightness slightly if you are a real black level junkie. Sometimes the Z5's blacks are so deep that it darn near matches my completely black border around my projector screen.



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post #7 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 03:41 PM
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Has anyone observed something like vertical "combing" on scene transitions and rapid field changes using the Z5? I'm on SC Time Warner cable using an SA 3250HD converter. This looks as if crawling dots instantaneously expand vertically into evenly spaced 2-3 pixel wide columns, separated by 2-3 pixels (sort of like corduroy) for the duration of the field. This occurs only on analog channels, not the digitals, and on every input, including HDMI, even with the converter set to "pass-through", and the Z5 set to progressive "off" and screen image "normal through". The effect seems to be more severe on some channels, particularly the SPIKE channel. Is this an MPEG artifact?
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post #8 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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It sounds like image noise from Time Warner, I don't think it's your equipment. Generally the Z5 is good at handling noise. I have a CRT hooked up to my cable as well, and believe it or not, the Z5 filters the image better than the CRT does, as far as the static.

I have seen some tiny dots and static on some scenes, but very rarely and it is mostly on channels with a weaker signal. I don't know if this is the problem you are talking about though.



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post #9 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 07:31 PM
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blipnitz -- That sounds like a problem with excessive noise (interference type) in your TWC analog signals (especially since you don't see it on the digital feed - it's not a Z5 problem). That is one of the reasons I dropped my local Comcast cable service (the other being excessive prices).

This problem may also be due to faulty connections in your the distribution box for the feed to your residence, or a defective SA 3250HD STB. You might want to try to get TWC to fix it, but don't hold your breath.

NB - We are diverging from the subject of this thread. I appologize for my contribution to it.

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post #10 of 460 Old 01-29-2007, 11:28 PM
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More a "TIP" then a "TWEAK", but here's some info I posted in another post. The First tip gives a handy hidden menu. The second provides access to the "Service menu":

Z5 Hidden Menus - what I know so far

Checking Lamp time: This menu shows how many hours the projector has been on and how many hours the lamp has been in "Normal" mode and how many hours in "Eco" mode.

How to Access it: Press and hold the POWER ON/STAND-BY button on the remote for more then 20 seconds. The screen will pop up briefly.

Service Adjustment Menu: This menu allows you to adjust the service data.

How to Access it: Press and hold the MENU button on the remote for 20 seconds. A "S" will appear on the screen. Now press and hold the "SCREEN" button on the remote for 3 seconds. You are now in the service mode. To exit press the POWER ON/STAND-BY.

WARNING: The OK, MENU, and pointer buttons all change service data values. Don't press them unless you know what you are doing or record the original values.

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post #11 of 460 Old 01-30-2007, 08:23 AM
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I received my DVD essentials disk this weekend. I'll start by saying I'm an absolute novice when it comes to calibration and in the past lived with the settings my tv came with. After spending untold hours reading the posts by knowledgeable forum members I decided my Z5 could benefit from a basic calibration.

I started with the user 1 preset.

Brightness -8
Contrast -7
Color +5
Color Temp = user
Red =0
Green =0
Blue=0
Sharpness -3
Lamp Control = Full
Gamma =0
Color List=1
Dynamic Gamma = off
Auto Black Stretch= off
Contrast Enhancement= off
Transient Improvement= off

The color bar seemed nearly perfect for Blue and Green but the red was a little off on the magenta square (this might be the red push everyone has discussed with the Z5 although again I'm not qualified to say).

After the adjustments I can say after viewing some previously recorded football games and Discovery hd programs that to my eye it was a definite improvement. Colors seemed much more natural especially greens and the overall picture had more depth.
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post #12 of 460 Old 01-30-2007, 02:28 PM
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Thanks for the advise.
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post #13 of 460 Old 01-30-2007, 02:30 PM
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I don't get dots or speckles, just parallel narrow vertical columns. I have a few more tests to perform, but I've tried multiple converters on different feeds to different TV's, and observed similar artifacts.

Thanks, anyway.
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post #14 of 460 Old 01-30-2007, 09:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godawg View Post

I received my DVD essentials disk this weekend. I'll start by saying I'm an absolute novice when it comes to calibration and in the past lived with the settings my tv came with.
I started with the user 1 preset.

Brightness -8
Contrast -7

Your contrast seems too low, I can't imagine the image not looking somewhat washed out at these levels. Try raising your contrast to more like +10 to +20, and lower the brightness to -10 to -20 to compensate. It will give a more punchier and rich image, even if it is not within calibrated specs, it might look better (it looks much better to me). Also, you might change the transient to L1 and let me know if you notice things appear sharper. You might prefer the contrast that low, but on mine it definitely looked washed out around that level.



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post #15 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 01:16 AM - Thread Starter
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My only dissapointment with the Z5 so far is the PC input. I am unable to acheive a perfectly clear picture. It's acceptable for video, but it seems to be missing that last bit of focus no matter what I try. I have tried 3 different video cards, VGA, HDMI, and different computers. I have not tried an ATI card though, as all my cards were NVIDIA's.

I am not sure what the issue is, but I have seen at least one other person with a similar issue. The text does not look as clear on my Z5 as it does on my $300 22" LCD monitor.



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post #16 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

My only dissapointment with the Z5 so far is the PC input. I am unable to acheive a perfectly clear picture. It's acceptable for video, but it seems to be missing that last bit of focus no matter what I try. I have tried 3 different video cards, VGA, HDMI, and different computers. I have not tried an ATI card though, as all my cards were NVIDIA's.

I am not sure what the issue is, but I have seen at least one other person with a similar issue. The text does not look as clear on my Z5 as it does on my $300 22" LCD monitor.


I finally got my Z5 today and I just love it. I have to say that out of the box it wasn't bad at all. The sharpness is truly to be seen to be believed. I've seen my share of last generation pj's up to $30k but I don't remember such minute, detailed sharpness where you can see EVERY pixel clearly if you go close enough to the screen.

To have the sharpness available is wonderful because you can dial it down a bit if necessary. In the reviews of the panny 100 it always seemed weird to see the effect of "digital" smoothing because it was so strangely mixed, a few odd pixels were visible sharp and others smeared. The Z5 is fully sharp or globally out of focus and the user can decide the exact amount and we should have that control. I just wish the focus ring had a finer control when turning.

No news on calibration, has to wait till tomorrow. I have a few ATI cards I can try tomorrow, 9800 pros and a new 1650 pro which should show her stuff...

Sorry about interrupting but I'm so happy with the darn thing, "finicky red" or not.
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post #17 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 04:48 AM
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Your contrast seems too low, I can't imagine the image not looking somewhat washed out at these levels. Try raising your contrast to more like +10 to +20, and lower the brightness to -10 to -20 to compensate. It will give a more punchier and rich image, even if it is not within calibrated specs, it might look better (it looks much better to me). Also, you might change the transient to L1 and let me know if you notice things appear sharper. You might prefer the contrast that low, but on mine it definitely looked washed out around that level.


Thanks I'll give it a try this weekend.
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post #18 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 07:13 AM
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Is it possible to use two very different user settings like A) daytime and B) night time to accommodate the influence of some light on the screen?
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post #19 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 11:42 AM
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My only dissapointment with the Z5 so far is the PC input. I am unable to acheive a perfectly clear picture. It's acceptable for video, but it seems to be missing that last bit of focus no matter what I try. I have tried 3 different video cards, VGA, HDMI, and different computers. I have not tried an ATI card though, as all my cards were NVIDIA's.

I am not sure what the issue is, but I have seen at least one other person with a similar issue. The text does not look as clear on my Z5 as it does on my $300 22" LCD monitor.

You may have already tried this but make sure your resolution is 1280 X 720 and that the overscan is set to 0. I use DVI to HDMI and it looks pretty good.
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post #20 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artinhawaii View Post

Is it possible to use two very different user settings like A) daytime and B) night time to accommodate the influence of some light on the screen?

hey art, not sure if i'm answering your question, but you can save 4 user defined settings on the projector. you can save your nighttime settings on one and daytime settings on the other and with the press of a button, you can move from one to the other depending on what time of day you're watching.
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post #21 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by zzz37 View Post

You may have already tried this but make sure your resolution is 1280 X 720 and that the overscan is set to 0. I use DVI to HDMI and it looks pretty good.

I use DVI to HDMI on my computer too. I remember when I first plugged it in, the picture looked off. I saw that overscan was initially set at 10. after I changed it to 0, the picture looked good.
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post #22 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 04:12 PM
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I plugged my hp laptop in (VGA to VGA cord) but get only a blue screen. Do I need to change something in my pc or should it just display on the screen what I see on the monitor? As above, sorry for the off topic issue (well, not off the one above) and thanks for the calibration tips. I'm new to this and it all boarders on overwhelming.
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Is there a setting to eliminate the blue blob in the upper left corner and lower right corner?
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post #24 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by smile View Post

I plugged my hp laptop in (VGA to VGA cord) but get only a blue screen. Do I need to change something in my pc or should it just display on the screen what I see on the monitor? As above, sorry for the off topic issue (well, not off the one above) and thanks for the calibration tips. I'm new to this and it all boarders on overwhelming.

smile, it sounds like your computer might not be sending a signal through the vga cord. keep the cord connected to the projector. right click on your desktop, click properties, click display properties, click settings tab, there should be an advanced button. click on the advanced button, and depending on your video card (mine is ATI), there should be a tab called Displays. go to that tab, and you should be able to set your computer to output to monitor. HP should also have a quick key, for my HP if you hold down [FN] and [f4] keys, it should be able to cycle through the different output settings. hopefully this works.
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post #25 of 460 Old 01-31-2007, 06:20 PM
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Anybody in this thread care to weigh in on this:

Does the Z5 need calibration?

Click on the above link and let me know your thoughts


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post #26 of 460 Old 02-01-2007, 12:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzz37 View Post

You may have already tried this but make sure your resolution is 1280 X 720 and that the overscan is set to 0. I use DVI to HDMI and it looks pretty good.

Yah, I've tried everything normal (even stuff abnormal). It looks ok. Text in video games looks fine. It's just that thin text or small fonts do not look as sharp as an LCD monitor. Again, even text in video games is fine.



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post #27 of 460 Old 02-01-2007, 12:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HendersonD View Post

Anybody in this thread care to weigh in on this:

Does the Z5 need calibration?

Click on the above link and let me know your thoughts

There are like 3-4 modes that have "ok" color accuracy. If you add a bit of color saturation to Natural Mode (color +3 up to maybe +6), then change color temp to med or high, and finally save it as a user preset then you get color levels similar to a some RPTV's I have seen, which isn't perfectly 65K (I believe it's more on the blue side), but it still looks fine. I personally don't like 65K color for nature scenes, sometimes it makes stuff not look as vivid as I like. I like things close to 65K with a bit more saturation. 65K is great for sitcom or news type stuff.

The Z5 is harder to get the colors right than other projectors I've seen, but a non-professionally calibrated Z5 can come close enough with user adjustments in my opinion. The biggest problem with the Z5 is that the bright reds are slightly too light (some have called this orangish). It's not that the red's really look orange, they don't, but on a fire engine red corvette I noticed the corvette's red color was closer to orange than it should have been on the RGB scale. I am not sure if there are any pro-calibrators that can calibrate around this issue, maybe. Also, I don't know if a professional calibration will really improve the Z5 much at all compared to a user that has a good understanding of the Z5. I know there is a service menu which allows more sophisticated tweaks, but the only way any of us would know for sure is by comparing a pro-calibrated one to a user-calibrated Z5 (A-B'n them).



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post #28 of 460 Old 02-01-2007, 12:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Video Game Tweak:
Turn off Transient enhancement when playing games btw. Games are already much sharper naturally since the content is primarily rendered, so using transient L1 for a sharpness increase is not advisable when playing games or watching rendered animations.



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post #29 of 460 Old 02-01-2007, 01:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artinhawaii View Post

Is it possible to use two very different user settings like A) daytime and B) night time to accommodate the influence of some light on the screen?

You can try either dynamic cinema, or even vivid mode as a starting preset. Then adjust these manually to make them look better (adjust brightness, contrast, color temp, etc...). Save this as a user preset. Another option, start with natural mode, add the normal +3 to +6 or so color, and then raise the contrast and brightness very high, as well as raise the lens iris, and then add some dynamic gamma or auto-iris to further increase the brightness without making the image washed out.



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post #30 of 460 Old 02-01-2007, 04:43 AM
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I have a question that relates to the zoom. In what way does the zoom feature restrict lumen output? Is wide angle letting through more light than fully engaged zoom?

I have some flexibility but due to the low lumen output I would want to do the best I can, relative to my small living space.
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