Optoma HD 72 Bulb just went... I Think... - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 406 Old 05-22-2007, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I am now on my second HD 72 bulb. The first lasted 2500 Hours. This second one, which was provided free through our purchase, lasted a miserable 680 hours. What I wonder is that the bulb did not blow up or crack or anything. The projector, after a minute or so, would just shut the lamp down. I would still have to shut the projector itself down by pushing the power button twice. I can hear the fan spin up as it shuts down. I can restart the projector again and the bulb will fire up for another minute. Technically the bulb is not burned out. It is as bright as ever. Is this something wrong with the HD 72, or does it know when the bulb is going to go? The same thing happened with my first bulb. I Think 680 hours is pathetic for bulb life. Is there something wrong with the projector? I also have a dead pixel, which I might call about, but that is a different beast.

Tom Kuhn
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post #2 of 406 Old 05-22-2007, 06:13 PM
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Have had a similar experience on the two bulbs that have gone out on me.. they didn't pop or anything , just go completely black after they start to warm up. my first one went early around 1000hrs and the 2nd one around 1700 or so. It's a bit odd because they still 'kind-of' work and aren't completely dead..


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post #3 of 406 Old 05-22-2007, 06:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Do you think your bulb Really went out, or perhaps it was a firmware glitch?
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post #4 of 406 Old 05-22-2007, 08:31 PM
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It's not the bulb. I just had mine come back from repair for the same thing. The screen went blank just after starting up. The projector kept running and fans were on.

I don't know exactly what they fixed but they replaced a part and not the bulb.

James


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post #5 of 406 Old 05-24-2007, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tukkis View Post

It's not the bulb. I just had mine come back from repair for the same thing. The screen went blank just after starting up. The projector kept running and fans were on.

I don't know exactly what they fixed but they replaced a part and not the bulb.

Woah what!.. so you are saying the my previous two bulbs that i thought were dead are still good? I need to send mine in asap.. thanks for the heads up.


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post #6 of 406 Old 05-24-2007, 09:43 PM
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Woah what!.. so you are saying the my previous two bulbs that i thought were dead are still good? I need to send mine in asap.. thanks for the heads up.

I would say if it's still under warranty definately get it looked at.

James


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post #7 of 406 Old 05-26-2007, 05:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I talked to Optoma yesterday, explained the problem, and the person I spoke to said that that I was seeing was NOT NORMAL. HEreis what he told me in myown words...

He mentioned that it could be the sensitivity of the ballast that drives the light. After replacing a bulb, the new bulb is within the tolerance of the ballast for a while, until it slowly moves outside of the tolerance and the ballast shuts down.

So to everyone who has this problem, 1. Talk to Optoma, 2. I hope you kept yourold bulbs, as there might be quite a few hours left on them.

I will keep everyone up to date...


Tom


Update #1 - I went and looked for my old bulb and it has mysteriously disappeared. This is the second time that and old bulb has disappeared on me...
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post #8 of 406 Old 05-31-2007, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomaskuhn View Post

I talked to Optoma yesterday, explained the problem, and the person I spoke to said that that I was seeing was NOT NORMAL. HEreis what he told me in myown words...

He mentioned that it could be the sensitivity of the ballast that drives the light. After replacing a bulb, the new bulb is within the tolerance of the ballast for a while, until it slowly moves outside of the tolerance and the ballast shuts down.

So to everyone who has this problem, 1. Talk to Optoma, 2. I hope you kept yourold bulbs, as there might be quite a few hours left on them.

I will keep everyone up to date...


Tom


Update #1 - I went and looked for my old bulb and it has mysteriously disappeared. This is the second time that and old bulb has disappeared on me...

Tom, did you try asking them to replace your previous bulb? I'm going through that negotiation with optoma support currently. The first offered a discounted rate on a bulb- like 100$ off or something, but i'm holding out for a free bulb for this trouble. I'll let ya guys know how it goes.


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post #9 of 406 Old 06-04-2007, 09:57 PM
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I very recently experienced the same situation. My bulb would shut off after a minute or two of initial operation. I have had my HD72 for exactly 11 months and had 750 hrs on the initial bulb. I shipped it to Optoma and after waiting and waiting, someone finally told me the bulb was bad and wanted $400 to replace it. After pointing out that I didnt even get half the usage on the bulb that the manufacture's website suggests, they offered me a bulb at half price. I was told the bulbs were actually manufactured from a third party that Optoma contracts with. I refused to buckle, and after requesting to speak with a Manager about the advertised quality of their product, Optoma stood down and replaced the bulb for free. The entire process took 3 weeks and was far from Quality Customer Service. Dont get me wrong, I LOVE MY HD72! It produces stunning pictures when fed an HD source. I just wish Optoma would get a grip on their customer service. As a result, the next time my HD72 goes down, I may or may not stick around with Optoma. Maybe try something else???
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post #10 of 406 Old 06-05-2007, 09:10 AM
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Customer service seems to be hit or miss these days for most people. You could easily get better or worse service with Optoma or another company. I have yet to read anywhere here at AVS where customer service was great every time for any of the manufacturers. The way I have to fight most places no matter what the problem, I am resigned to having to do battle with all companies as the general rule and receive excellent service as the exception. It has happened, but I don't count on it. Consequently, I go into a service request fully knowledgeable and prepared to the extent that when I get resistance, it doesn't last long.
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post #11 of 406 Old 06-07-2007, 05:42 AM
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I had this happen twice the other night. I thought my Xbox was turning of, everything just went black, the fan was still running as if it was on. I turned it off, and back on and the same thing happened again. Since then it hasn't happened anymore.


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post #12 of 406 Old 06-07-2007, 10:40 AM
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I just sent mine in the same issue. 1 year and 900 hours. I found that I got a few more weeks out of the ballast/bulb by powering it up in non-bright mode. After it was warm (~5 minutes) switching it to bright mode was fine.

Shipping was almost $100, hopefully they will give me something for the trouble.
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post #13 of 406 Old 06-08-2007, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisdl View Post

Shipping was almost $100, hopefully they will give me something for the trouble.

wow 100$ did you overnight it to them!?

Well i can say that i had a great experience with Optoma support just finishing up working with them. Had to go back and forth a few times, but they were very quick to respond to my issues (did everything over email) and were willing to work with me on resolving the situation. I had a few more problems than just the bulb flicker (had 1 stuck pixel and also some discoloration in a corner of the picture), so they sent me a new unit to replace the old to make up for my trouble. Hopefully i'll have better luck with this new unit as i really dig this projector.


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post #14 of 406 Old 06-08-2007, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikari Warrior View Post

I had this happen twice the other night. I thought my Xbox was turning of, everything just went black, the fan was still running as if it was on. I turned it off, and back on and the same thing happened again. Since then it hasn't happened anymore.

Yeah that's how mine problem started as well.. though turning it off and on didn't work for me--glad that it worked for you


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post #15 of 406 Old 06-10-2007, 01:06 PM
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This *just* started happening to me today.

the HD72 displays for about 30secs or so and then blanks.

I have 800 hours on the lamp so far.

Unfortunately when I went to try and set it to the dimmer mode to see if it would work then, it was already not in bright. :|

Wrote mail to Optoma. Hoping they can fix it w/o hassle.
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post #16 of 406 Old 06-12-2007, 01:49 PM
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Happened again last night after about a week or so of no problems. My warranty is though September, so I'm sure I'll have to send it in, again. To repairs within one year? This is becoming the best and most problematic piece of home theater equipment I've ever owned.


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post #17 of 406 Old 06-12-2007, 02:34 PM
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Well, Optoma sent it back stating that it works fine with a test bulb. No Call or email, just mailed it back. Mine has the exact same symptoms as above of the weak balast - well of course it will work fine with a new bulb. But for how long? Do I want to hold on a projector thats going to eat $400 bulbs every year?

I don't know if I should trust them on this.

Anyone want to try my bulb and see if it works in their unit?
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post #18 of 406 Old 06-12-2007, 09:01 PM
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so how do you even know when your bulb is finished? Is it like a regular household bulbs where it just one day goes out, or is it like a DLP bulb where it slowly gets dimmer and dimmer until it is no longer useable?

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post #19 of 406 Old 06-13-2007, 06:32 AM
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From wiki - here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DLP_projector

The main light source used on DLP based rear screen {and front} projection TVs is based on a mercury vapor arc lamp. The arc lamp is replaceable by the DLPTV owner and as of 2006 costs between $140 and $300 USD. At start up the arc lamp is "struck" by a 5000V charge to start the arc in the arc tube. The arc starts and after warmup the "hold" voltage drops to approximately 60 Volts. At the end of life, mercury-vapor lamps commonly exhibit a phenomenon known as cycling. As a lamp gets older, the maintaining voltage for the arc eventually rises to exceed the voltage provided by the ballast module. As the lamp heats, the arc fails and the lamp goes out. Eventually, with the arc extinguished, the lamp cools down again, the gas pressure in the arc tube is reduced, and the ballast can once again cause the arc to strike. The effect of this is that the lamp glows for a while and then goes out, repeatedly. The RPTV ballast designs detect cycling and give up attempting to start the lamp after a few cycles. If power is removed and reapplied, the ballast will make a new series of startup attempts. This failure is then typically indicated via LEDs on the unit, and neccessitates replacement of the lamp.
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post #20 of 406 Old 06-13-2007, 07:59 AM
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SO - Even if my bulb is dead at 900 hours, the lamp failure indicator (by the power button) failed to indicate this condition. The firmware the is supposed to warm on screen of imminent bulb failure never worked. AND most importantly, I got no where near the advertised 3000 hours average bulb life.

It would have been nice if the service department had mentioned that this is a typical symptom of bulb failure and saved me nearly $100 shipping returning it.

This is aggravating me enough to go around a bash optoma reviews on pricegrabber, amazon, projectorcentral, etc. I am going to call them again today and give them a last chance to make this right...
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post #21 of 406 Old 06-13-2007, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisdl View Post

From wiki - here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DLP_projector

The main light source used on DLP based rear screen {and front} projection TVs is based on a mercury vapor arc lamp. The arc lamp is replaceable by the DLPTV owner and as of 2006 costs between $140 and $300 USD. At start up the arc lamp is "struck" by a 5000V charge to start the arc in the arc tube. The arc starts and after warmup the "hold" voltage drops to approximately 60 Volts. At the end of life, mercury-vapor lamps commonly exhibit a phenomenon known as cycling. As a lamp gets older, the maintaining voltage for the arc eventually rises to exceed the voltage provided by the ballast module. As the lamp heats, the arc fails and the lamp goes out. Eventually, with the arc extinguished, the lamp cools down again, the gas pressure in the arc tube is reduced, and the ballast can once again cause the arc to strike. The effect of this is that the lamp glows for a while and then goes out, repeatedly. The RPTV ballast designs detect cycling and give up attempting to start the lamp after a few cycles. If power is removed and reapplied, the ballast will make a new series of startup attempts. This failure is then typically indicated via LEDs on the unit, and neccessitates replacement of the lamp.

I don't believe front projection DLP's use the same kind of lamps as rear projection DLPs. The quote you posted above is referring to DLP rear-projection TV's, and I see you added in parentheses that it also referred to front-projection DLP TV's, but I believe you are incorrect. I know LCD front projectors use halogen lamps:
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To display images, LCD (liquid crystal display) projectors typically send light from a halogen lamp through three LCD panels -- one each for the red, green, and blue components of the video signal. As light passes through the panels, individual pixels can be opened to allow light to pass or closed to block the light. The combination of open and closed pixels can produce a wide range of colors and shades in the projected image.

Halogen lamps are used because they output an ideal color temperature and a broad spectrum of color. These lamps also have the ability to produce an extremely large amount of light within a small area: current projectors average about 2,000-4,000 ANSI lumens.

Newer technologies, such as DLP and LCOS are becoming more popular in video projection. In practice, the term "LCD Projector" is often used as a catch-all for any type of computer projector, regardless of the technology being used.

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One invention that addressed the problem of short lamp life was the halogen lamp, also called the tungsten-halogen lamp, the quartz-halogen lamp or the quartz-iodine lamp, wherein a tungsten filament is sealed into a small envelope filled with a halogen gas such as iodine or bromine. In an ordinary incandescent lamp, the thickness of the filament may vary slightly. The resistance of the filament is higher at the thinner portions which causes the thin areas to be hotter than the thicker parts of the filament. The rate of tungsten evaporation will be higher at these points due to the increased temperature, causing the thin areas to become even thinner, creating a runaway effect until the filament fails. A tungsten-halogen lamp creates an equilibrium reaction in which the tungsten that evaporates when giving off light is preferentially re-deposited at the hot-spots, preventing the early failure of the lamp. This also allows halogen lamps to be run at higher temperatures which would cause unacceptably short lamp lifetimes in ordinary incandescent lamps, allowing for higher luminous efficacy, apparent brightness, and whiter color temperature. Because the lamp must be very hot to create this reaction, the halogen lamp's envelope must be made of hard glass or fused quartz, instead of ordinary soft glass which would soften and flow too much at these temperatures.

The envelope material can be selected and modified (by means of optical coating) to achieve whatever lamp characteristics are required. Halogen bulbs are widely used in automobile headlamps, for example, and because headlamps often contain plastic parts, halogen headlamp bulbs' envelopes are made out of hard glass, or out of quartz 'doped' with additives to block most of the UV output (hard glass blocks UV without need of dopants).

Conversely, some applications require ultraviolet radiation, and in such cases, the lamp envelope is made out of undoped quartz. Thus, the lamp becomes a source of UV-B radiation. Undoped quartz halogen lamps are used in some scientific, medical and dental instruments as a UV-B source.

A typical halogen lamp is designed to run for about 2000 hours, twice as long as a typical incandescent lamp.

What do they mean by the "runaway effect"?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LCD_projectors
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halogen...e_halogen_lamp

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post #22 of 406 Old 06-14-2007, 04:01 AM
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Same thing happened to me. Sent it in to Optoma and they said it met the specs and i needed a new bulb. I have had it back for 2 days and now and don't get the shut off -- that is the bulb is working, but I wonder for how long? I don't believe it was the bulb and I'm confused that if they didn't do anything, why is the bulb working?

BTW the lamp hours were reset. How do I find out how many actual hours I have on the bulb? They probably didn't replace the bulb, but there's no place to actually fnd out the lamp houurs after a reset, or is there?
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post #23 of 406 Old 06-15-2007, 02:20 PM
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Different front and rear projectors use a variety of Mercury bulbs. The HD-72 uses a 220W P-VIP Super High Pressure Mercury Discharge Lamp. I dont know if there are any other front or rear projection units based on this specific bulb. I dont think any of the current DLP or LCD projectors (front or Rear) use halogen anymore.

The Optoma service manager offered me a discounted new bulb at the crappy price $319+shipping. I think Ill find a better deal.

I wonder how many folks ever make it to 2000-3000 bulb hours?
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post #24 of 406 Old 06-18-2007, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
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...why is the bulb working?

BTW the lamp hours were reset. How do I find out how many actual hours I have on the bulb? They probably didn't replace the bulb, but there's no place to actually fnd out the lamp houurs after a reset, or is there?

Thats interesting and very fortunate! Maybe the tech forgot or took pity and left the test lamp in your unit. I was not so lucky. Mine is still blanking out after warm up. Mine also came back with zero hours. Probably from the new firmware update it got. My menu glitch is gone now. I would bet there is a total hours somewhere in the service menu, but I dont seeing it or remember how to bring that menu up right now with out a working projector. I am sure its posted here on the forum.

BTW - The service manager told me not to expect the 2000-3000 lamp life unless I followed the ideal use model. Never turned on more than 8 hours at a time. And never powered up twice in a less than 8 hours. He mentioned the bulb over heats after 8 hours and takes 8 hours to completely cool down post shutdown. Sounds like a fantastic design!
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post #25 of 406 Old 06-20-2007, 01:34 PM
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Add me to the list. After 10 mos and 1200 hrs of trouble free use, bulb does the burn-out thing after 2 mins. Didn't realize mine was on "Bright" mode. Switched and restarted and it runs fine now. From reading the two threads, it seems like there is an issue that Optoma can fix or are they just repl bulbs? My question - is it worth sending in to Optoma to "fix". I love this pj, just hope this is all that happens.
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post #26 of 406 Old 06-25-2007, 07:55 PM
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Repeating my post from another thread:

I have (or had) what sounds like the exact same problem. HD72 was purchased in 10/2006 and has less than 520 hours on the bulb. Beginning Saturday, it would run for about 30 seconds after a power cycle and then the lamp would shut off. No warning messages or red lights on the unit. It was clearly still running since it would respond to the remote for powering it off and on again.

I just turned it off, pulled the plug for a minute, and plugged it back in. Now it seems to be behaving itself. Suggest the rest of you try the same. This thing is a computer, after all. Perhaps all it needs is a cold boot.

Optoma tells me there are no firmware updates for this projector, BTW.
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post #27 of 406 Old 06-27-2007, 10:02 AM
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Mine got a firmware update, but I dont think it was worth the shipping expense.

I still have a strange glitch that the 1st time I hit the menu, the screen goes blue and hunts for the active source (HDMI, VGA, Component, etc). THe menu never comes up, I have to hit the button a 2nd time. They didnt fix this either when it was out in CA for repair.
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post #28 of 406 Old 06-27-2007, 12:02 PM
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> Mine got a firmware update

How do you know? Where in the menus do you look, and what revision # do you see?
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post #29 of 406 Old 06-27-2007, 12:20 PM
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Ill have too look and see when I am home. the projector came back with 9 hours and all the setting reset. The RMA work order indicated an upgrade had been done.
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post #30 of 406 Old 06-28-2007, 09:10 PM
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This happened again times tonight. I started to run it in High Altitude mode in case the cause was overheating, and it stopped it for the rest of the evening. Has anyone had any luck with figuring this problem ou? Any help from Optoma. It seems odd that all of us are having this problem at about the same time (almost a year, 500-700 hrs).


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