Acer PH530 Tweakers and Calibration thread.. - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 312 Old 09-24-2007, 05:55 PM
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Money Sent

ditto

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post #92 of 312 Old 09-24-2007, 05:55 PM
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Will re-send money tonight.

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post #93 of 312 Old 09-25-2007, 09:18 AM
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Will re-send money tonight.

money sent...
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post #94 of 312 Old 09-25-2007, 09:33 AM
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Thanks to all the guys who sent in funds for this endeavor. I will be shipping out the projector on Monday of next week... (need it this weekend for family)... Art says that he will have it back to me within a week so that means we could have our review by the end of next week. This is good news.

I am still approx. $30 away from cost of shipping... so any other generous souls out there want to donate, feel free to PM me.

EDIT:

Sproket, you've been a busy little bee on those Review sites for this projector, I see. This little thing needs all the exposure it can get!
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post #95 of 312 Old 09-25-2007, 03:59 PM
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I have been asked by some members to share my techniques , First of all I want to point out that all displays differ according to room size types of screens and ambient lighting conditions and sizes of different types of screens.
The color bars are the most important setup tool available for Any display , it tells you when the contrast is set too high and the and when brightness is setup properly.
Use your projectors controls to adjust brightness and contrast.
The long bars should be gray, yellow, cyan, green, magenta, red, and blue.
While a thin gray frame surrounds the outside perimeter of the bars,
the transition from one bar to another should be sharp with no intermediary colors.

Pay special attention to the various levels of gray below the red bar.
You should see three distinct shades of gray there.
If, however, your system limits available colors, these shades of gray may not show.

The background of the screen should be deep black, not dark gray.
This text should be white.

Keep your lens free of dust and smoke.
In fact, you should clean off the dust right now, even before touching the controls.

Re–adjust it regularly. Whenever the ambient light changes, your display is no longer adjusted properly.
I have C&P this text from a video calibration manual to help you get familiar with calibrating your display properly for those of you who don't have a setup disc like Avia or Video essentials.
I am also adding some test pattern pictures so you can familiarize yourselves with proper setup of your display , even if it is for a crt display the color bars and sharp charts and pictures are very impotant tools for the home theater.
Please feel free to add any comments or anything I might have missed.

Calibration and Adjustment
Before making any brightness level or color correction adjustments to your videos using filters included with Vegas Video, it is important to first calibrate any external monitor you are using to view adjustments, plus any televisions your videos will be played off of. While the best method is to use a color bar generator and other expensive equipment, that method is beyond the reach of most hobbyists. So the following information is presented to assist you on how to proceed manually adjusting your television's white and black levels, test sharpness and adjust color intensity and hue. While somewhat technical, do not skip over this tutorial if you wish to make the best possible adjustments to your videos. Vegas Video comes with several test patterns including SMPTE Color Bars. This tutorial includes some other test patterns including the EIA #1956 sharpness test pattern.

How To Best Take Advantage of the Preview window
Normally the preview window is displayed in the lower right corner. By clicking on the thin gray vertical line to the left of the preview window while holding down your left mouse button the preview window becomes undocked and can be dragged elsewhere and also resized. If you have a two monitor setup the preview window can be dragged to the second monitor. This is not the preferred method for video editing when working with FX filters adjusting levels and colors. The best method is to display the preview window on a external NTSC monitor (in the U. S.) or if you're on a budget, any small TV that has video-in capability. This allows you to see in real time* how your video will play off a television which is important for brightness levels and color adjustments. To have the preview display off an external monitor you'll need either a digital camera with a firewire (IEEE 1394) connector or a device that takes the place of the camera. Vegas Video online help and the full manual gives specifics for setting up an external monitor.

*Real time previewing on any external monitor is influenced by the power of your CPU, how many tracks you have set up, and by the type and duration of transitions, overlays and other more complex features. Some jerkiness and hesitation in the preview window is normal with the frame rate dropping substantially at times. Faster playback can be achieved by changing the playback quality to preview. This has no effect on the rendered quality of your finished video.

Many things effect how we perceive color. This series of tutorials isn't about the finer points of color theory, many books have been written to cover that topic. As you probably know, no two people see colors the same way. Nothing we can do about that, but we can have some basis to begin at before we start making adjustments to our videos. Several things effect how colors are displayed on television sets and computer monitors. The first thing you should be aware of is televisions and computer monitors display colors differently. Depending on where you live there are two main standards. In the United States there is the NTSC standard, most everywhere else they use the PAL standard. The picture tube phosphors for the NTSC world is STMPTE-C, while in the PAL universe the phosphors are EBU. You should also keep in mind that all televisions and computer monitors display darker and darker pictures as they age. While the changes are very gradual, if you do a lot of video work you may want to consider replacing your external monitor every couple years or so, especially if you can no longer achieve proper white balance explained below.

This and the next several paragraphs revolve around a simple yet very important question; how white is white, how black is black? If you're hardware isn't set to show whites and blacks properly without any distortion or unwanted shading, any attempt to make accurate color corrections to your videos is nearly impossible which is why proper calibration is so important.

Everyone knows when you take photographs or shoot video outdoors, colors look 'different' then they do indoors under artificial lighting, noticeably so in skin tones for example. Under certain lighting conditions colors look more bluish (cooler) or yellowish and warmer. You knew all that. What you may not have known is in an effort to make television pictures brighter, many television sets straight from the factory have a white point of 9300K (Kelvin) or higher while the broadcast standard is only 6500K. Your computer monitor may have yet another color temperature setting, a good reason why you don't want to adjust your video colors and brightness levels by looking directly at your computer monitor, because in part the default color temperature probably isn't 6500K, so if it isn't it will cause all your video colors to be distorted if you adjust off your computer monitor which is why you're much better off using an external monitor to make such adjustments, but only after said monitor is properly calibrated which this tutorial is all about.

Be aware that grabbing just any old color bar chart from the hundreds of web sites that offer them can get you in trouble. Even if they say they are SMPTE NTSC or SMPTE PAL, many are inaccurate. Vegas Video includes several color bar and other test images calibrated to be used with their DV codec. Their NTSC version is the second chart below.

This Color Bar has 100% saturation. It was offered on a web site as a SMPTE color bar chart. It is shown here along with an actual SMPTE color bar chart below so you can see the differences in the saturation of the colors. Do not use this chart to calibrate your TV!

Channel Gray Yellow Cyan Green Magen Red Blue
Red 127 255 000 000 255 255 000
Green 127 255 255 255 000 000 000
Blue 127 000 255 000 255 000 255



This Color Bar is the Vegas Video SMPTE version for NTSC. To meet SMPTE standards (Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers) the color bars are set at 75% saturation and reflect the following values shown in the table below. The letters and numbers on the chart won't show on your file copy and are for reference purposes in the adjustment steps that follow. Why not use the brighter bars? Chrominance amplitudes with 100% bars can cause distortions and they violate NTSC transmission standards.

Channel Gray Yellow Cyan Green Magen Red Blue
Red 180 180 016 016 180 180 016
Green 180 180 180 180 016 016 180
Blue 180 016 180 016 180 016 180

Step #1 Setting White Level
Before making this adjustment or any that follow, check the room environment changing the ambient lighting to what you normally have for television viewing. Do not begin until your TV has warmed up for at least twenty minutes to allow components to stabilize. Do not have a freeze frame on the television while waiting for the set to warm up or you may risk burning in the image. This adjustment uses your television's contrast or picture control. Too low a setting results in a dim picture. Too high a setting distorts image with a loss of detail. Many people have this control set too high out of habit or to compensate for viewing television in a overly bright room.

The image at the left is comprised of two rectangles, the outer is absolute black, RGB value 0,0,0, the inner is set to SMPTE white, 235,235,235. You can also use Vegas Video's test patterns; White Porches, Pluge and Porches and Ramp. which are under the Text/Backgrounds tab under test patterns for this adjustment and the one that follows.

If your TV is relatively new this adjustment is simple to make. As your TV ages it gets more difficult because you'll need to increase the brightness which tends to distort the picture tube beams preventing them from staying in sharp focus. Your goal in this step is to use your TV's contrast or picture control to get the inner rectangle as white as possible while keeping the outer rectangle pure black. You want BLACK. Not a shade of gray. Avoid introducing any distortion or blooming which can happen if you set the contrast or picture control too high. What you want to avoid is seeing any vertical dirty white bar beginning to appear at the edges where the white inner rectangle meets the black nor do you want to see any out of square distortions. If you see any glowing or halos around the inner rectangle or some bleeding of the white into the black outer rectangle, then the contrast/picture adjustment control is set too high and you should reduce it until it the distortion disappears.

Step #2 Setting Black Level
This is a close-up of the lower right corner of the three vertical bars shown in the SMPTE NTSC color chart with the labels -4,0,+4. It it often called PLUGE, an acronym for Picture Line-Up Generating Equipment. If you look closely you'll see there are actually three distinct bars. They are used to properly set black level more commonly called the brightness control, a confusing name for this control considering the black level should not be adjusted to effect overall light output, what many people wrongly use it for. Rather its purpose is to set proper black level. Setting the black level too high results in a washed out image, setting too low results in a loss of detail.

When black level is set correctly you should not see any difference between the first two blocks labeled ,-4 and 0 on the SMPTE chart above with them both appearing to be the same shade of black. Only the rightmost block labeled +4, should appear just slightly lighter in shade than the other two blocks, just being barely visible. You can also use the test pattern labeled Pluge and Porches.

This is a gray chip chart. Once you set white and black points in the previous two steps look for any color cast. Next look very closely at the horizontal bar than runs across the middle of the chart. You should be able to see six 5% gray (very dark) "zebra stripes". Readjust brightness very slightly (if needed) until the stripes just disappear, then adjust again in the opposite direction until they just reappear. Alternate with tweaking white and black point settings very slightly using the other test patterns. This is as close as you probably can get to proper white and black levels without using expensive test equipment.





Note: If your television previously had improperly set white and black points you'll need to resist restoring them to what they were. After a few days, maybe up to a week your eyes should be get use to viewing at correct settings. If you can't achieve proper white and black points without distorting the picture, you may need to have your TV serviced. A common problem is improper convergence which prevents the red, green and blue electron beams in the picture tube illuminating the TV screen's phosphors correctly. A symptom your picture tube is showing its age or is badly out of convergence or something is amiss in some of its circuitry is bluish whites, greenish grays and reddish blacks that can't be removed.

Step #3 Adjusting Sharpness

After making the white and black level adjustments use this test pattern or a similar one to adjust sharpness. This control is sometimes labeled peaking, focus or detail. Many people think the higher the setting, the sharper the picture. Wrong! For most televisions the control more likely will be between a third of the way and a little past half way to maximum. If you set it higher you'll introduce video noise, distortion and shadowing resulting in a picture that is actually more blurry. Set too low you'll lose detail. To make doing this adjustment easier, first reduce color saturation to minimum settings. Most modern televisions display a value on screen. Record the value so you can restore it later.

Adjust sharpness by placing the control near its minimum settings to begin with. Note the pattern of wedges, three patterns of lines each at the top, bottom, left and right coming out from the smaller inner square at the center of the test pattern. Adjust sharpness to obtain the best overall image while looking at the entire test pattern and the most sharpness, separation and equal brightness of the wedges. As you begin to increase the sharpness control, likely at some point it will begin to distort the lines in the wedges and in the squares containing alternating thin white and black bars towards the ends of the chart in the medium gray area. Set too high the black lines in the wedges will begin to develop white outlines or shadows. Set too low the dark lines will become more blurry. The correct point is where neither effect is overpowering. Do not except to be able to clearly see the numbers or separation between the bars on your television as well as you do off the fairly high resolution image included on the web site.

Like changing white and black points, it may take up to a week or so for your eyes to readjust to the change. Once your eyes adjust, you should begin to see more subtle details especially in shadow regions.

Step #4 Adjusting Color Intensity
Now that you have adjusted white and black levels and sharpness you can proceed to setting color balance. If you skipped over the first three adjustments. Stop. Do not make the following adjustments without first setting proper white and black levels or adjusting sharpness! Restore the color intensity control to its previous setting as mentioned in the previous step.

The best way to adjust colors is to remove all traces of Red and Green generated by your TV by shutting off those two guns located in the neck of the picture tube if you have a CRT type television. Some more expensive televisions and most all true NTSC monitors have a blue switch either located at the front or back of the monitor that allows you to do this. Newer plasma type televisions and LED monitors obviously don't have CRT guns due to the design.

Most regular consumer grade televisions don't have a blue switch. Therefore you need an alternative method to adjust color intensity and hue. The best is to view the screen through a blue filter so you can properly adjust using the SMPTE color bars. If you television has a tint control that allows fine tuning of skin tones disable it. Larger photo supply stores should have the required blue filter or one can be obtained from various web sources. What you'll need is either a Wratten 47B Blue or a Rosco's #80 primary blue filter. The latter seems easier to find on the web and is generally less expensive. With luck you should be able to purchase just a single sheet for around $6 U.S. You hold it up to your eyes and view through it to make the following adjustments. Your goal is to have the color bar chart appear as show with only blue and black vertical bars when viewed through either filter described above.

We'll adjust color intensity first. Closely study the large SMPTE Color Bar Chart that has the keys, A, B, C, D. In the next steps the bars are also referenced by their relative position on the chart. The first is bar one, the next is bar two and so on through bar 7. The same applies to the blocks sometimes called chips which are immediately below the bars. Note the first bar at the extreme left (bar one) and the smaller block immediately underneath it, (block one) references A and B on the SMPTE Color Bar Chart demo, along with references C (bar 7) and D (block 7) on the right side of the chart. These are used to set color intensity.

When the SMPTE Color Bar chart is generated on a television and viewed with only the blue CRT gun on or when viewed through the correct type of blue filter, the intensity of bar A and block B along with bar C and block D should be the same or as close as you can make it. The smaller image of the SMPTE color bar chart (blue and black only) shows how the bars and blocks appear to merge into one solid area with only a tiny whitish line separating the bar and block. Do not confuse the bottom row starting with a darker blue block with this adjustment and only look at the the outer bars and blocks. Refer to the larger SMPTE color bar chart to see how it appeared as three rows prior to turning the blue switch on (if your TV has one) or looking through a blue filter.

Step #5 Adjusting Color Hue
To adjust hue, look at the two inner bars; Cyan and Magenta (bars 3 and 5) and the blocks immediately underneath them. Make very minor tweak if necessary to have bar 3 and block 3 plus bar 5 and block 5 at the same intensity. Again there will be a thin whitish line separating the bars from the blocks.

Alternative Hue Adjustment Without Blue Filter
If you can't obtain a proper blue filter you can still adjust off the Red bar on the SMPTE color bar chart. While less accurate, you can still adjust for obvious errors. Note the shades of blue on the outer blocks (-I) and (Q). If the red bar is over saturated usually some of the red will 'bleed' causing a little red to show up in either block -I or Q. A minor adjustment of color intensity should remove it.

Summary
Calibration sounds more complex in the explaining then the actual process is. After reading through this you may be a little skeptical if it is really worth the bother. I assure you it is, and encourage you to give it a try. While there are several DVD packages available that include more tests and better quality test patterns, you can make your own test video using the test patterns included with Vegas Video (under Text/Backgrounds, test pattern) and copying the white level, gray chip and EIA #1956 resolution charts so obtain different ones off the web. All that's necessary is making a small video using Vegas Video or Video Factory (of course) and dropping the appropriate charts on the timeline stretching them out so they appear long enough on screen for you to hit the pause button on your remote when you're actually doing the calibration so maybe you can display the attached pictures via vga cable to the projectors display.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NT2t3ye3m9s

http://www.real-time-vision.com/back..._pattern.shtml



http://www.videouniversity.com/tvbars2.htm
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL

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post #96 of 312 Old 09-25-2007, 04:09 PM
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Wow, so what are your settings?

Also, what should I use to clean off the lens without damaging it?
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post #97 of 312 Old 09-25-2007, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tattootearz View Post

Sproket, you've been a busy little bee on those Review sites for this projector, I see. This little thing needs all the exposure it can get!

Re-sent money.

Where has Sproket been posting?
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post #98 of 312 Old 09-25-2007, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayson73 View Post

Wow,

Also, what should I use to clean off the lens without damaging it?

I use a dried out baby wipe cloth because it will clean the lens without leaving a residue, just make sure you clean the outside of the lens and not the insie since you may damage it trying to open the projector.
As for my settings what works for me might be off for you, just set the contrast so the whites are not too white that it will make the image washed out , and set the brightness so the surrounding black background is an even black and not dark grey.

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post #99 of 312 Old 09-25-2007, 05:15 PM
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Lou, how would you compare the PH530 to your past projector(s)?

That's quite a process you have for calibration. Do I miss my guess that you might be in the video production industry? Given your expertise, are you seeing any of the color inaccuracy mentioned by tattootearz either post or pre-calibration? How well did the PH530 fare post-calibration? Would you say pretty good grayscale tracking? Any green push?

Have you by chance seen any of the competing models, like the HD70 or Mits HD1000u/1500 or any 720p LCDs?

Thanks for your help.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah View Post

Lou, how would you compare the PH530 to your past projector(s)?

That's quite a process you have for calibration. Do I miss my guess that you might be in the video production industry? Given your expertise, are you seeing any of the color inaccuracy mentioned by tattootearz either post or pre-calibration? How well did the PH530 fare post-calibration? Would you say pretty good grayscale tracking? Any green push?

Have you by chance seen any of the competing models, like the HD70 or Mits HD1000u/1500 or any 720p LCDs?

Thanks for your help.

Most of my knowledge comes from reading, research and hands on installations and calibrations, as for the green push it is more noticable with an hdmi connection than with component video cables with this projector.
The reason I purchased this unit was because I got tired of lcd projector's lousy panel discoloration and the ever present high cost of replacement lamps like in focus and optima , epson and panasonic projectors I have owned , Plus I am just like others here looking for a low cost unit that works well for a good price until some 1080p units drop in price and are beyond reach because 2,000-3,000 is a bit high for me now.
The optima was going to be my first choice or the mits but when my epson started to act up I needed a fast replacement and the Acer was on sale so I purchase it, The discoloration was a bit annoying but to my eye it was easy to tweak and fix for me since I have been into home theaters since 1995 and it is one of my passions.

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post #101 of 312 Old 09-26-2007, 06:01 PM
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Thanks Lou- for posting a good how to for us!

Originally Posted by tattootearz
Sproket, you've been a busy little bee on those Review sites for this projector, I see. This little thing needs all the exposure it can get!

I just posted positive info on this nice projector b/c it deserves it.
I have 30 days to make this work for me and so far its better than my pb6100 so Im happy.
Gotta love the cheap price and cheaper bulbs.
Projectorcentral had only one review and that is a site I really use and like.
and the other is tiger.
Yes it does need more exposure!! So post away guys. Always nice to share your settings in posting also. Although I have tweak mine even more.
*Instead of posting new settings all the time i will just edit my settings post with what Im using and what works best for me. Just edited them also.

Hopefully ART will have a favorite setting he likes for this projector and share also.
* If you have helped with shipping Cost please do! I look foward to this review.
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post #102 of 312 Old 09-29-2007, 11:37 AM
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I had some issues running my HD-A1 HD DVD Player at 720p over HDMI. It looked like there was no aliasing at all on the picture. Every edge had very obvious and very bad jaggies. I noticed this in "The Last Starfighter", "Knocked Up", and a couple of other movies. When I switched to 1080i, all was right with the world. I have the latest firmware for the A1. Considering this a 720p native projector, I have to assume the problem is with the A1 itself and the Acer.

My Xbox 360 is set to 720p and I haven't noticed any issues other than Halo 3, which is naturally jaggy. I'll set my 360 to 1080i tonight and see if that makes a difference at all.

Anyone experience any issues with a hd dvd player and 720p output? Thanks.
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post #103 of 312 Old 09-29-2007, 02:06 PM
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I'm looking at this projector as a temporary until my room is setup. How big of an image are you guys projecting?

I was planning on a 120" wide screen for my SMX screen, but if that isn't possible, I'll probably just pass.

My room is approximately 14'W X 20'L and is completely light controlled.

Thanks,
Tommy
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post #104 of 312 Old 09-29-2007, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venk View Post

I had some issues running my HD-A1 HD DVD Player at 720p over HDMI. It looked like there was no aliasing at all on the picture. Every edge had very obvious and very bad jaggies. I noticed this in "The Last Starfighter", "Knocked Up", and a couple of other movies. When I switched to 1080i, all was right with the world. I have the latest firmware for the A1. Considering this a 720p native projector, I have to assume the problem is with the A1 itself and the Acer.

My Xbox 360 is set to 720p and I haven't noticed any issues other than Halo 3, which is naturally jaggy. I'll set my 360 to 1080i tonight and see if that makes a difference at all.

Anyone experience any issues with a hd dvd player and 720p output? Thanks.

Are you using any keystoning? Not sure why that would be different at 720p vs 1080i, though.

There is some question whether this is a 720p native PJ or 1280x768. In that case, scaling (if it scaled and didn't map 1:1) 720 to 768 would look much worse than scaling 1080i to 768. A windows desktop might answer this question in a hurry.
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post #105 of 312 Old 09-29-2007, 03:11 PM
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No Keystoning or Zoom settings of any kind on this guy. I posted this also in the A1 thread in the HD Players section so hopefully one of those guys can chime in.
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post #106 of 312 Old 09-29-2007, 03:49 PM
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I got my ph530 a week ago, after buying it on newegg (tigerdirect were out of stock the day I ordered).
yesterday finaly the draper consul (portable screen on a tripod) 90" 4:3 matt white 1.0 gain arrived ($98 shipped). I am VERY satisfied with the pj and screen combo.
the screen is a huge improvement over the grey wall I used for a few days. on the wall I could see rainbows when blinking, on the draper screen on the other hand, it seems like the rainbows are gone for good.
thank you Lou, for recommending draper so much. I'm using the ace via AMC 25' dvi-to-hdmi cable from a geforce8800gts640mb as source, projecting on the sceen when its open 3/4 way, to make 16:9 screen ratio, which comes out aprox 82" diagonal size, 70x43".

I fiddled with the video settings on the ace alot to get good color accuracy, by vision at least. after a week the settings I find best (via hdmi from pc, in a dark room) are:

eco mode off
brightness 80
contrast 52
color temp = 0
white segment = 4
degamma = 4
sharpness = 15
r = 95
g = 99
b = 100
1:1 mapping (source pc sends 720p@60hz)
RGB

working in computer mode rgb, so theres no control over tint/saturation both are set at 50.
with these settings red, green and blue are extremely well defined (all colors are), gray and black tones seperation is AWESOME (better than my LCD). for me these settings provide amazingly good performence, as well as extra detail in dark scenes. watching high quality source material such as dvd's and HD content is breathtaking. BF2142 @ 720p @ 82" is unbelievable. I enjoy using the ace more than my hanns g 28" 3ms 1920x1200 native, 1080p compatible lcd, which is truly nice for gaming. I shall post "screenshots" in a few days.
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post #107 of 312 Old 09-29-2007, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah View Post

.

There is some question whether this is a 720p native PJ or 1280x768. In that case, scaling (if it scaled and didn't map 1:1) 720 to 768 would look much worse than scaling 1080i to 768. A windows desktop might answer this question in a hurry.

I can attest that it is truly a 720p projector and not 768 , I have inside info from an Acer employee and distributor and he has assured me the "Ace"
is truly a 720p.
Overseas there is a japanese version of the same unit and it is 1024x768 native resolution , for some reason some companies do this like Acer, Panasonic and others do the same practice wehere their american products differ from japanese versions.

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post #108 of 312 Old 09-30-2007, 04:35 PM
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hypez604-

Are you running TV content through PC or is this just your settings for DVD, gaming, and download playback?

Curious about your hdmi settings for TV viewing also.
Thanks
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post #109 of 312 Old 10-01-2007, 07:07 AM
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For those interested, my projector was shipped off to Art at Projector Reviews this morning for an in-depth review, which will be posted on his website soon afterwards!
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post #110 of 312 Old 10-01-2007, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_trip View Post

I'm looking at this projector as a temporary until my room is setup. How big of an image are you guys projecting?

I was planning on a 120" wide screen for my SMX screen, but if that isn't possible, I'll probably just pass.

My room is approximately 14'W X 20'L and is completely light controlled.

Thanks,
Tommy

I'm using 106" HP screen in a non-light controlled room and it's great. I would imagine that it would be great in a completely light controlled room at 120"
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post #111 of 312 Old 10-01-2007, 12:02 PM
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I also posted this in my DIY screen thread, but I thought I'd also post this pic here to show this projector with a bit of ambient light and being, as of yet, un-calibrated (loaned my Avia disk to my sister).


This is a screen cap with some ambient light (picture lights on behind bar, undercounter lights on behind bar and overhead cans on ap. 20%). I had to prop the camera on the bar to get the photo, which is why it's not on-center. Click on the image to open a larger in a new window (174kb).

-Joe


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post #112 of 312 Old 10-01-2007, 12:08 PM
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Spkroket, from the pc I watch dvds, downloads, and games. I'm getting a directv HD DVR in a few weeks, gonna hook it up through the HDMI as well obviously, I'll post the settings for it when I'll have it
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post #113 of 312 Old 10-01-2007, 05:30 PM
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It seems that tiger direct has some open box Acers.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...ory=Projectors

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post #114 of 312 Old 10-01-2007, 05:34 PM
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It's not worth it for a measly $30, to take the 9 month hit on the Warranty. I encourage any and all to buy NEW.

If the Open Box was significantly cheaper, like say... $499... that would be a different story.
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Nice colors better than mine ever looked with TV or should I say HDTV.
What settings are you using?
*****************************************************
My Acer reset it self the other day when I turned it on and brightness has not been the same and now I cant get good fleshtones like before.
It has been RMA'd back to tiger.

I will follow Arts review and maybe pickup another one but for now Im looking at benq w500 very hard and HD1000u.

There is just something about that 7 segment color wheel with a clear segment that causes a lost with colors to give additional brightness.

Im thinking just to stay away from 7 segment wheels all together thats why w500 is on top of list.
My benq pb6100 has been nothing but trouble free but is now outdated needing new bulb.

Im sure the AX-200u provides very nice picture with brightness but they just plain and simply break and have Iris problems, ax-100u!

I look foward to Arts review!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sproket View Post

Nice colors better than mine ever looked with TV or should
I say HDTV.
What settings are you using?

I haven't calibrated the HDMI input yet, so that pic is with the out-of-box settings. There's a bit of white crush with the stock settings, but not too bad, and nothing that I won't be able to dial back. It only bugs me in comparison to my dialed-in CRT RP in the family room.

-Joe


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post #117 of 312 Old 10-01-2007, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tattootearz View Post

It's not worth it for a measly $30, to take the 9 month hit on the Warranty. I encourage any and all to buy NEW.

If the Open Box was significantly cheaper, like say... $499... that would be a different story.


What a gyp , when i saw the ad it was $499.00 and now it's more , what the hell happened.?.,.?

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post #118 of 312 Old 10-02-2007, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sproket View Post

GreySkies-

Nice colors better than mine ever looked with TV or should I say HDTV.
What settings are you using?
*****************************************************
My Acer reset it self the other day when I turned it on and brightness has not been the same and now I cant get good fleshtones like before.
It has been RMA'd back to tiger.

I will follow Arts review and maybe pickup another one but for now Im looking at benq w500 very hard and HD1000u.

There is just something about that 7 segment color wheel with a clear segment that causes a lost with colors to give additional brightness.

Im thinking just to stay away from 7 segment wheels all together thats why w500 is on top of list.
My benq pb6100 has been nothing but trouble free but is now outdated needing new bulb.

Im sure the AX-200u provides very nice picture with brightness but they just plain and simply break and have Iris problems, ax-100u!

I look foward to Arts review!

I had to RMA mine back to Tiger after only 5 hours of use. I turned the thing on to work through some calibration settings (thanks to those that have posted) & the picture looked awful. I walked up to my screen & saw the projected image had the "screen-door" effect - I could see the entire pixel grid. It looked worse than VHS on an old CRT TV. Hopefully its just a fluke but it does make me nervous now that someone else has had to RMA one of these projectors & "refurbished" models are already showing up on TD..... The new one shows up today, I better get at least 10 hours out of this one....
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post #119 of 312 Old 10-02-2007, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedShift76 View Post

I had to RMA mine back to Tiger after only 5 hours of use. I turned the thing on to work through some calibration settings (thanks to those that have posted) & the picture looked awful. I walked up to my screen & saw the projected image had the "screen-door" effect - I could see the entire pixel grid. It looked worse than VHS on an old CRT TV. Hopefully its just a fluke but it does make me nervous now that someone else has had to RMA one of these projectors & "refurbished" models are already showing up on TD..... The new one shows up today, I better get at least 10 hours out of this one....

All digital PJs have screendoor, especially if you walk up to the screen to examine the picture.

What kind of signal were you sending to the Pj and what cable were you using to do it?

SD can look "worse than VHS" on your projector, especially if you are sending the signal through a composite cable.
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post #120 of 312 Old 10-02-2007, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reconlabtech View Post

All digital PJs have screendoor, especially if you walk up to the screen to examine the picture.

What kind of signal were you sending to the Pj and what cable were you using to do it?

SD can look "worse than VHS" on your projector, especially if you are sending the signal through a composite cable.

It was connected to a Toshiba HD-A2 HD DVD Player. The input didnt matter though, as soon as the projector started you could see the pixelation in the Acer logo on the screen. Something definitely went wrong cause the picture was beautiful for 5 hours then turned to sxxt. I called Acer support & after explaining the problem was told to RMA it.
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