Official AX-200 Owners Thread - Page 104 - AVS Forum
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post #3091 of 3116 Old 11-22-2013, 04:03 AM
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I'm wondering if this issue really is due to dust blobs....I don't notice them on any other color...although I guess I rarely see a screen all one color that isnt black...so maybe they are just most evident on the netflix screen.

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post #3092 of 3116 Old 11-22-2013, 10:10 AM
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I would say so yes. Even with polariser damage you may not notice it unless on a white background, so i guess the same could be said with dust blobs on the netflix background (red LCD panel is affected maybe?) Most LCD's suffer with dust blobs due to the nature of the cooling method (Blown air which channels up the side of the panels to keep them cool)

Look at the alternatives.

A) Put up with it
B) Buy a new PJ
C) Take it apart with no special tools or parts required costing (hopefully) zero money except for a couple hours patience and care and improve the image

I'll take C please.
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post #3093 of 3116 Old 12-08-2013, 10:19 AM
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I promise I will summarize this once I am done...but for now...I have taken my projector apart to deal with the assumed dust blobs that are noticeable on red screens (see my postings of Netflix pics above).

Here is the projector apart. This is easiest part.
1. Unplug Projector
2. Tilt Lens to point up and lock it in. This is to ease he removing of the cover]
3. Remove all the screws that have Arrows
4. Remove screws from the back panel where all your Input connections are
5. [Gently remove cover

Should look like this

IMG_2759_zps9f9f8787.jpg

This is the tricky, be careful, part:

You must disconnect the ribbon cables.

IMG_2762_zps0f204c2a.jpg

To disconnect (on the PT-AX200u as I am unsure of other models), you must, push the BLACK sliders on each end of the GREY ribbon bar towards the hole where the ribbons comes from. You can gently use your fingernails for this but be gentle.

It will look like this once they are slid back.

5bb4a143-ea80-49fa-b2ae-c49123b4aaab_zps78a6593c.jpg

Now, do all of them and then
1. Take off the screws holding that circuit board down
2. Be sure to have removed the screws from the outside, rear, Input panel. (this will allow the panel to move out of the way to remove the circuit board.)
3. Disconnect several of the wires but you can leave the bunch of connections in the upper right quadrant as you will then be able to fold over the panel exposing the lens and polorizer panels.


Now...my questions...before I start "dusting". What am I looking at here?

I see for each Red, Blue, Green ribbon configuration, 2 sets of glass "panels". One on the outside and one on the inside. What are these? Are both polarizers?

As you will see in the image below, I point out the 2 RED glass panels and 2 GREEN glass panels.
What is panel 1 and what is panel 2?

068805c7-d09b-427f-ba70-a7f11a43659b_zps8186e485.jpg
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post #3094 of 3116 Old 12-08-2013, 10:32 AM
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More questions about the 2 glass panels for each RED, GREEN, BLUE..

1. Can I remove them to clean them?
2. To clean them, can I wipe them with a Q-TIP or cloth?
3. If I can not remove them, do I just use canned air to blow the dust off?
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post #3095 of 3116 Old 12-08-2013, 02:37 PM
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Well, you can see the small red dot on the lcd ribbon cable in the picture, so that's your red lcd panel. The items you have numbered 1 are your polarisers. Don't mess with the number 2 items, they are just dichloric lenses in the light path.
What you want to do is, remove the block that i have painted in yellow. IIRC there are 2 screws holding it in, but be mega careful as not to disturb the lcd panels. This is your LCD array containing the 3 panels and the prism. Don't touch the panel surface with your fingers.

The polarisers (1) can be removed and cleaned both sides, but use a sharp pencil and mark a line like i have painted in the picture (thin yellow lines on each side of each polariser) so you get them in the same place as they were before. Again, don't touch the glass surface with bare fingers and make sure they're spotless before fitting them. Don't use chemicals, but a soft brush will do the trick.



Congrats on diving in though, i know it's very nerve racking, but if you're careful, it will go fine.
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post #3096 of 3116 Old 12-08-2013, 02:52 PM
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Also thought i might add, do one polariser at a time, or label them so they go back in the right place. They're both different so must go back where they came from. Also i heard canned air contains solvents, so i would avoid it and use air from an air compressor. Just hold each one up to a bright light and make sure there isn't any fading. Also, i would give the fans a good clean whilst your in there but remove them first otherwise it will leave a load of dust in the PJ. Clean the filter in soapy water and let dry overnight.
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post #3097 of 3116 Old 12-08-2013, 06:12 PM
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Ok, Part 2 of my day.

I went ahead and purchased this:
IMG_2788_zps2cc2ee5a.jpg

NOTE: DISCLAIMER: This is my experience and I did this to my projector at my own risk. I do not imply that my experience will be the same for you nor do I claim that my steps are correct and that there is no issue that may result in my actions. I took my own risks. Any attempt to copy my steps is at your own risk. (yes, I am paranoid).

I then, DID NOT remove any poloarizers, or glass panels. I simply followed the instructions on use of this product and blew out the dust.

NOTICE: Here is a great shot showing the dust build up on the RED polarizer.
1a8ef79a-24af-4d94-b2af-7d75089cdb44_zpsb40bc23a.jpg

This produced this image:
IMG_2503_zps074af971.jpg

I then used the Endust product above to blow out the dust (according to directions!!!!)

I now have this image:
IMG_2787_zps5ff39e84.jpg


NOTICE: I DID NOT remove any panels or polarizers...I simply blew out the dust on the panels and polarizers following the directions of the product I used to blow the dust.
NOTE: DISCLAIMER: This is my experience and I did this to my projector at my own risk. I do not imply that my experience will be the same for you nor do I claim that my steps are correct and that there is no issue that may result in my actions. I took my own risks. Any attempt to copy my steps is at your own risk. (yes, I am paranoid).

I now have a perfectly good working unit and the dust blobs are all gone!

Yeah!

smile.gif
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post #3098 of 3116 Old 12-09-2013, 09:42 AM
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As promised, here is a consolidated, step by step of what it was I did to fix the dust blobs. I thank everyone who has participated in the discussion and for the work those already shared and documented on their removals of these globs.
Here is the projector apart. This is easiest part.

DISCLAIMER: This is my experience and I did this to my projector at my own risk. I do not imply that my experience will be the same for you nor do I claim that my steps are correct and that there is no issue that may result in my actions. I took my own risks. Any attempt to copy my steps is at your own risk. (yes, I am paranoid).

I was experiencing this when red images were being displayed (you can see all the "globs")
IMG_2503_zps074af971.jpg

My research on this forum and feedback from members (thanks lethagized) led me to believe these were dust blobs so I pursued the path to rid them once and for all (or at least until the dust globs come back)...lol.
1. Unplug Projector and move projector to a work table. Do not attempt to do this from its "in use" position.
2. Tilt Lens to point up and lock it in. This is to ease he removing of the cover on step 5.
3. Remove all the screws that have Arrows
4. Remove screws from the back panel where all your Input connections are (this will help with a later step of removing one of the circuit boards to expose the polarizer/glass panels.
5. Gently remove cover. NOTE: have patience at this step as you work the cover around the lens and tilt stick)

You should now have something like this:

IMG_2759_zps9f9f8787.jpg

Now, you must disconnect the ribbon cables. This is the tricky, be careful, part:

IMG_2762_zps0f204c2a.jpg

To disconnect (on the PT-AX200u as I am unsure of other models), you must carefully push the BLACK sliders on each side of the GREY ribbon bar towards the hole where the ribbons comes from. You can gently use your fingernails for this but be gentle.
I slide both back at the same time. It will slide back about 1/16 of an inch..its not much!

You will be able to slid out the ribbon cable once the black piece is slid back.

It will look like this once they are slid back.

5bb4a143-ea80-49fa-b2ae-c49123b4aaab_zps78a6593c.jpg

and like this when all ribbon cables are removed from connectors:

IMG_2768_zpsc1a1069f.jpg

Do all 3 of the ribbon cables and then
1. Disconnect several of the wires but you can leave the bunch of connections in the upper right quadrant as you will then be able to fold over the panel exposing the lens and polorizer panels.
2. Take off the screws holding that circuit board down
Be sure to have removed the screws from the outside, rear, Input panel. (this will allow the panel to move out of the way to remove the circuit board.)
3. Flip over the circuit board to expose the area beneath the circuit board.

Here is a pic showing the above steps:
11816944-2870-414e-84b3-b12a6d2fb762_zpsdbd0f49d.jpg

You should now see this:
IMG_2773_zps4c2f5063.jpg

I went ahead and purchased this:
IMG_2788_zps2cc2ee5a.jpg

I then, DID NOT remove any poloarizers, or glass panels. I simply followed the instructions on use of this product and blew out the dust.
I did not have a lot of dust. I have over 2000 hrs and was quite surprised, but there was enough to take notice, just not globs or dust bunnies as others have noted.

NOTICE: Here are 2 pics showing where my offending dust blobs existed on the RED glass panel.

e8d3e8c6-aabf-43ff-9bd1-de41c833006a_zps887e9d1e.jpg

and now a close up of that area circled in red in the image above. You will see the dust in this close up on that red glass panel.
1a8ef79a-24af-4d94-b2af-7d75089cdb44_zpsb40bc23a.jpg

I believe the dust you see above was what is showing up as globs on any red screens such as this...
IMG_2503_zps074af971.jpg

I then used the Endust product above to blow out the dust (I simply followed the directions carefully on this product!!!)

I now have this image:
IMG_2787_zps5ff39e84.jpg

NOTE: The image may appear darker than the previous...I did not have the same exact camera settings or light in the room when I took both images, so it is not the bulb that is darker, only the camera settings that made the images differ.. the point I was making here is that the dust blobs are gone.

NOTICE: I DID NOT remove any panels or polarizers...I simply blew out the dust on the panels and polarizers following the directions of the product I used to blow the dust.
DISCLAIMER: This is my experience and I did this to my projector at my own risk. I do not imply that my experience will be the same for you nor do I claim that my steps are correct and that there is no issue that may result in my actions. I took my own risks. Any attempt to copy my steps is at your own risk. (yes, I am paranoid).

I now have a perfectly good working unit and the dust blobs are all gone!

I hope this helps others with the same type of problem.
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post #3099 of 3116 Old 01-17-2014, 04:51 PM
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post #3100 of 3116 Old 01-18-2014, 07:22 AM
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As it says it's a compatible bulb/lamp.

If you desire an OEM original lamp try Provantage.

http://www.provantage.com/panasonic-et-lax100~4PANP06P.htm

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post #3101 of 3116 Old 01-19-2014, 03:28 PM
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I can pick up the pj around 180$ with 300hr on it.
Any advise what should i look for?lots of people had problems with" flickering,yellowing"......
Still worth the $ ?
Thx
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post #3102 of 3116 Old 01-20-2014, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by besike View Post

I can pick up the pj around 180$ with 300hr on it.
Any advise what should i look for?lots of people had problems with" flickering,yellowing"......
Still worth the $ ?
Thx

There are no guarantees. Are you buying from someone you know or a stranger? I highly doubt 2-6 year old projector only has 300 hours of use. Have you seen it in operation? Too many variables to tell you if this is worth the money.

The question is how badly do you want a $180 projector?
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post #3103 of 3116 Old 02-20-2014, 08:30 PM
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Hi guys,

 

I bought a used pt-ax200 two years ago for 300$.

 

Recently all the HDMI and components ports stopped working.

The video and S-video are still working fine.

 

I looked over the Internets and figure it could be the PC board or a main board failure ?

 

Is there any future for my projector ?   :confused: 

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post #3104 of 3116 Old 02-21-2014, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bleumatthieu View Post

Hi guys,

I bought a used pt-ax200 two years ago for 300$.

Recently all the HDMI and components ports stopped working.

The video and S-video are still working fine.

I looked over the Internets and figure it could be the PC board or a main board failure ?

Is there any future for my projector ?   
confused.gif  

You got 2 years of service out of a $300 projector which I think is pretty good. Unless you are handy with electronic repair I'd say you're done here. If you are you can download the service manual here:

http://servicemanuals.pro/servicemanuals/panasonic/projector/pt-ax200u_pt-ax200e-9998/download.html

Assuming you can find (unlikely) the parts you will likely have to replace the A-P.C.Board (~$700) or replace the HDMI ports.

HDMI port failure is not that uncommon and is accelerated by plugging and unplugging HDMI cables more than normal. Component ports are more robust so the problem could lie with the board mentioned.

Additionally there are AX-200 selling for around $300 on eBay at the moment.

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post #3105 of 3116 Old 03-04-2014, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.G View Post


You got 2 years of service out of a $300 projector which I think is pretty good. Unless you are handy with electronic repair I'd say you're done here. If you are you can download the service manual here:

http://servicemanuals.pro/servicemanuals/panasonic/projector/pt-ax200u_pt-ax200e-9998/download.html

Assuming you can find (unlikely) the parts you will likely have to replace the A-P.C.Board (~$700) or replace the HDMI ports.

HDMI port failure is not that uncommon and is accelerated by plugging and unplugging HDMI cables more than normal. Component ports are more robust so the problem could lie with the board mentioned.

Additionally there are AX-200 selling for around $300 on eBay at the moment.

Thanks for your answer !

It's appreciated.

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post #3106 of 3116 Old 03-04-2014, 09:19 PM
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I have one for parts.
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post #3107 of 3116 Old 03-13-2014, 12:25 AM
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I've had one of these from soon after launch.
I've finally got the "replace lamp" message, so I have some questions...

1. The "replace lamp" warning came on 2327 hours, I've had it on Eco-mode - Does it refuse to work eventually? Roughly, how many hours till I have to replace it?

2. Do I buy a 3rd party part (lamp), or an original Panasonic lamp? NB: The official lamp is 4x the price.

3. What's wrong with 3rd party lamps? In what way are they 4x as bad?

4. Is the physical DIY of removing/replacing the lamp tricky? Anything I need to know?

5. Also, I've been getting some slight focus slipping and having to refocus the lens dial with my hand every hour or so. Is this because of the dying lamp or something else!?

Thanks for any help, it'd be greatly appreciated! smile.gif
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post #3108 of 3116 Old 03-13-2014, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superjo View Post

I've had one of these from soon after launch.
I've finally got the "replace lamp" message, so I have some questions...

1. The "replace lamp" warning came on 2327 hours, I've had it on Eco-mode - Does it refuse to work eventually? Roughly, how many hours till I have to replace it?

2. Do I buy a 3rd party part (lamp), or an original Panasonic lamp? NB: The official lamp is 4x the price.

3. What's wrong with 3rd party lamps? In what way are they 4x as bad?

4. Is the physical DIY of removing/replacing the lamp tricky? Anything I need to know?

5. Also, I've been getting some slight focus slipping and having to refocus the lens dial with my hand every hour or so. Is this because of the dying lamp or something else!?

Thanks for any help, it'd be greatly appreciated! smile.gif

1. If you have always had it in eco-mode you have until 3000 hours before it refuses to start. The nag screen will just be an irritation.

2. This is a question every owner has to decide for themselves. How much money do you want to invest in your projector.

3. Quality control is usually the reason for the price difference. Many are cheap knock-off bulbs. They are either not as bright as the original or die prematurely.

4. The instructions are in your manual, the process of replacing the lamp is not very complicated. Instructions are usually supplied with new lamp as well.

5. The slipping focus has nothing to do with the lamp, there is something else at play here. Try taping the focus ring down to see if that cures the problem.

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post #3109 of 3116 Old 05-22-2014, 10:50 AM
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Looks like lots of "new bulb" postings this late in the game! wink.gif Well, count me in.

I've had my projector since early/mid '09 and had it in for repair once after about a year-- the screen would take on a pinkish tint. Sent it into Heartland and they did whatever they did and it' s been great every since. I have been amazed at the life of this bulb-- it only just now started giving the nag screen!

Provantage looks to have the correct bulb for $301.00, which seems like a good deal. My question/dilemma is do I replace the bulb or get a new PJ-- probably the Epson 8350 .

I would, of course, love a real "upgrade" but I am not sure the 8350 and similarly priced others would be a big enough step to warrant the additional 1k.

Will I gain anything other than a brighter light and a longer life for this projector with a new bulb? Are there other parts that are now likely to go or have they already diminished enough to make the move to another?

Any advice is greatly appreciated as always!
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post #3110 of 3116 Old 05-22-2014, 04:18 PM
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eddiewill9, I just went through the same thought process with my PT-AX200U that you're going through.  I was really tempted to pop for a new 1080p projector.  But I ended up buying a new lamp from Provantage.  I knew there was some risk that something like the LCD panels could go bad at some point.  But my thinking was that the PT-AX200U isn't that far off current 1080p projectors in the $1,000 price range for image quality.  I considered how projectors keep getting better and better even as prices keep coming down, and thought about what might be available in a few years when this lamp is over the hill.  I'm really happy with the improved performance with the new lamp, and don't regret passing on a new projector for this round.  I think whatever new projector I get a few years from now will be a big step up.  Obviously if something on my current projector fails before I get full use of the new lamp I will have lost the gamble.  But I'm comfortable that I made the right decision for me.  A lot depends on one's priorities and financial situation.

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post #3111 of 3116 Old 05-26-2014, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.G View Post

5. The slipping focus has nothing to do with the lamp, there is something else at play here. Try taping the focus ring down to see if that cures the problem.

Thanks Mr.G! ...Sorry, what is the 'focus ring'? The external silver dial around the lens? I think I've probably tried moving that about and tightening the dial back up again - will have another go when I get new lamp.

I've found an OEM lamp for £200, but will probably go for a brand called 'Original Inside' for c.£130 - they claim the bulb part is original (Philips - not Panasonic?), just the plastic housing is 3rd party. There are other ET-LAX100 lamps for c.£70 - but I don't want my PJ to explode (do lamps really explode?).
What about those 'bare' bulbs you can buy for £40? Are they worth fitting, or too tricky? Does the housing on my original lamp really need replacing too?

BTW - my "REPLACE LAMP" warning came on 2327hrs, from Eco Mode use, but after exactly 300hrs more the PJ switched off and now it's only showing a blue screen and "REPLACE LAMP", so it's no longer usable.
Apparently, on p.91 post #2711(?) on this thread (and in the user manual?) it says you can reset the lamp's timer and then use it for as long as you like, so I'll give that a go, for awhile (manual does warn that lamp may explode somewhere though, so I don't want to push it beyond 3000hrs).

Anyway, thanks Mr.G.

P.S. Only been using it for Xbox gaming, so I don't notice the lamp flicker too much (apparently Eco Mode can prematurely cause the flicker, but Eco Mode looks great and operation is much quieter - plus lamp life is meant to be longer...2627hrs is all I got though).
Edit - just done the timer reset and it's working again (only 400hrs left till 3000 and I replace it, I'll make note of that).
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post #3112 of 3116 Old 05-27-2014, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superjo View Post

Thanks Mr.G! ...Sorry, what is the 'focus ring'? The external silver dial around the lens? I think I've probably tried moving that about and tightening the dial back up again - will have another go when I get new lamp.

I've found an OEM lamp for £200, but will probably go for a brand called 'Original Inside' for c.£130 - they claim the bulb part is original (Philips - not Panasonic?), just the plastic housing is 3rd party. There are other ET-LAX100 lamps for c.£70 - but I don't want my PJ to explode (do lamps really explode?). What about those 'bare' bulbs you can buy for £40? Are they worth fitting, or too tricky? Does the housing on my original lamp really need replacing too?

P.S. Only been using it for Xbox gaming, so I don't notice the lamp flicker too much (apparently Eco Mode can prematurely cause the flicker, but Eco Mode looks great and operation is much quieter - plus lamp life is meant to be longer...2627hrs is all I got though).
Edit - just done the timer reset and it's working again (only 400hrs left till 3000 and I replace it, I'll make note of that).



People who experience focus drift with their projector lens find the cause is usually external vibrations. For example having the projector on a coffee table which gets bumped or moved accidentally. There are other causes depending on where the projector is located. This problem is usually accentuated by the projector design, a loose and sloppy feel that allows the lens focus ring to move. But I did not think the AX-200 has that type of problem.

At any rate you can try running a piece of tape from the outer focus ring to the inner zoom section to see it stops the focus drift.

I'm confused by your statement that you will try tightening the dial back up again. Exactly what part are talking about? You cannot tighten the focus ring, you can only turn it.

Sometimes the flicker problem can be cured by running the projector in full power mode for several hours and then switching back to eco mode.

With a little Googling I think I found the Original Inside website in the UK you mentioned.

http://www.chooseav.co.uk/advice/lamps#.U4SX2C_2LfA

http://www.chooseav.co.uk/projector_lamps/panasonic/pt-ax200e#.U4SZjS_2LfA

If you are only using this projector to play games then certainly the choice of lamps to buy is up to you.

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post #3113 of 3116 Old 06-03-2014, 07:59 PM
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Hi all,

I seem to be having a strange issue with my 4 year old AX-200. I have put in a new bulb and cleaned the air filter, but it seems that after a few hours use the projector shuts down and the lights flash to say that the bulb overheated. The issue seems to fix itself after the projector cools overnight. It seems like the fan is blowing, but how strong should the airflow be?

I hope it's not time to replace this guy, until now it has been rock solid with no issues. Any ideas?
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post #3114 of 3116 Old 06-04-2014, 07:33 AM
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Hi all,

I seem to be having a strange issue with my 4 year old AX-200. I have put in a new bulb and cleaned the air filter, but it seems that after a few hours use the projector shuts down and the lights flash to say that the bulb overheated. The issue seems to fix itself after the projector cools overnight. It seems like the fan is blowing, but how strong should the airflow be?

I hope it's not time to replace this guy, until now it has been rock solid with no issues. Any ideas?

The new lamp if it was an OEM part would have come with a new filter which makes me suspect you paid for a clone. In which case your problem could very well be with the lamp you purchased.

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post #3115 of 3116 Old 06-04-2014, 03:20 PM
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So should I put back in the old lamp and see if it stops?
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post #3116 of 3116 Old 06-05-2014, 08:01 AM
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So should I put back in the old lamp and see if it stops?

That's the first thing I would do to eliminate the new lamp as the problem. If the problem persists then I would check the status of the fans in the service menu.

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