Official Panasonic AE2000 thread - Page 129 - AVS Forum
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post #3841 of 3926 Old 10-20-2010, 09:19 AM
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Hopefully if it's a heat problem that will be something they can tell me. I did put up a (nonobstructing) sheet of foil that gives a wide path of incoming cool air so the unit isn't recirculating hot exhaust. it is sitting on a solid shelf, though.
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post #3842 of 3926 Old 10-20-2010, 09:45 AM
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That's not something you want them to tell you, since they'd probably only say that in conjunction with saying that this was your fault and it'll cost you.

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post #3843 of 3926 Old 10-21-2010, 05:19 AM
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You didn't mention your fan setting. Visual Apex suggested I set the projector to HIGH altitude will double the fan speed. I also slid mine forward past the cutout to let the air circulate better. I also noticed the air comming out the front on a fortyfive degree angle!
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post #3844 of 3926 Old 10-23-2010, 12:38 PM
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Yes, I have always had the fan set high. I'm surprised if the overheat can come from HDMI components heating up that much. They have never felt particularly warm, but then I don't feel that one in the back of the projo either. I am told that the HDMI burnt out and as that is on the main board, reuires a >$500 repair. I also confirmed this was the second time the same thing has happened.

As I need to manually switch the HDMI cords on the back of my PS3 to switch from TV to projector, I wonder if a short circuit or grounding issue while doing that can mess up the HDMI. I also wonder whether by permanently installed HDMI cord to the projector could be the culprit.

I am buying a splitter (UltraAV 1x4 HDMI 1.3 Audio/Video Splitter) from Dcables and a new HDMI cord that will need to be 65 feet. So I will bypass all the cords and fumbling I have been doing, I hope. I didn't think the HDMI signal could be (legally) split and Dcable is not available by phone for several days but I ordered it based on description. This projector costs about $17/hour so far for the first 230 hours of use. I wish I didn't calculate that, it hurts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rstahl View Post

You didn't mention your fan setting. Visual Apex suggested I set the projector to HIGH altitude will double the fan speed. I also slid mine forward past the cutout to let the air circulate better. I also noticed the air comming out the front on a fortyfive degree angle!

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post #3845 of 3926 Old 12-16-2010, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huecodoc View Post

.... for which I now take planned 15 minute "intermissions" with the projector off in the middle of every film.

BTW... this is typically a bad idea. Every time the lamp is ignited, the initial "spark" that's required to initiate the arc/plasma - blasts off a minute amount of electrode material... permanently. (this material then adds to the "dark cloudy" look that begins to dim the lamp output, as well as add to the internal heating of the lamp... which will lead to the eventual total lamp failure)

In the large projectors that I maintain at work (a large church in KCMO), the manufacture gives a number to the effect of "every lamp strike effectively reduces the overall lamp life by 10-20 hours".

In other words, the amount of electrode material that's destroyed upon each and every lamp strike, would normally take 10-20 hours of lamp ON time to erode.

As the electrodes are blasted away, that effectively increases the gap distance between them, making it harder for the lamp igniter circuit to throw a hot enough voltage to create the initial spark, and thereby generate the plasma burn.

This is why I always instruct all staff members who borrow one of the loaner projectors at work... "If you need to set up the projector up-to 2 hours or so before your event begins, leave the projector ON until your event is over, as this will do less damage than turning it ON for just the few minutes it takes to set up." I do this at home as well... after my boys finish their movie, I ask them to leave it ON if I'm going to use it after they go to bed, 2-3 hours later. My current projector (a Studio Experience HD20) has served me VERY well for 7 years, with each lamp lasting WELL over the advertised hours.

(BTW... I'm cruising 'here' because I just bought a "needs repair" PT-AE2000 on eBay... praying/hoping it will be a simple repair!)

Arc lamps are finicky... I've been repairing/rebuilding video projectors ever since the Sharp XG-E650UB I had probably 14 years ago.

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL, AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT!
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post #3846 of 3926 Old 12-16-2010, 10:02 PM
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I not only run my PT-AE2000 on High Altitude for the faster fan, I also run it on Economy to run the bulb cooler, since I can neither see any difference in brightness nor hear any difference in fan noise. (My projector is about three feet behind and two feet higher than my head, mounted right-side up on a wireframe shelf.) The image it's throwing is 9 1/2 feet wide and beautifully bright, sharp, and colorful. I don't feel like I'm making any sort of compromise to prolong the bulb's life.

I also try not to turn it off and on too often - I use it only a few times a week for a few hours each time, during which it's on continuously.

I'm at around a thousand hours after about two and a half years, with no problems at all, and I'm hoping for many more years like this.

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post #3847 of 3926 Old 12-17-2010, 08:33 AM
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Turning the projector off for 15 minutes and back on is extra bad, because it takes much more energy to ignite a hot bulb. or something like that.
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post #3848 of 3926 Old 12-20-2010, 01:11 PM
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My Panasonic 2000 PJ hit 3000 hours yesterday and I had to reset the bulb timer. Everything seemed fine and the menu came up, but I could not access "Picture" on the top of the menu. I also noticed that there was no HDMI signal and no picture.

I shut the unit off and restarted it and while reading the manual it states that the PJ will wait 10 minutes before restarting. That section of the owners manual was not too clear about the 10 minute waiting time. After some time, the picture came to life from the cable box and I could access the picture setting in the main menu.

Was this just a normal part of resetting the timer?


The picture is still fantastic and I have upgraded my chairs to an L shaped set of Palliser power recliners to enjoy the PJ and a 40 " LCD on the side for Mon to Thursday viewing to save the bulb. I plan to watch this PJ till it dies or just sell it when the bulb finally goes for a few hundred and get a 1080P model. I find that my picture quality is more dependent on the quality of the HD broadcast. Blue Ray is stunnning.
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post #3849 of 3926 Old 12-20-2010, 02:39 PM
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I don't get your next-to-last sentence. The PT-AE2000U is a 1080P projector! The only reason I can see why you think otherwise is if you've been looking at the on-screen info while watching cable tv or a concert - both of which are typically 1080i. Put a good film-based Blu-ray and check that same screen and you'll see that it's 1080p.

Also, the menus let you lock the pj into 1080i mode, which might be what's going on. That's sometimes a good idea, if you're getting moire effects or jerky motion from 1080p.

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post #3850 of 3926 Old 12-21-2010, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post

I don't get your next-to-last sentence. The PT-AE2000U is a 1080P projector! The only reason I can see why you think otherwise is if you've been looking at the on-screen info while watching cable tv or a concert - both of which are typically 1080i. Put a good film-based Blu-ray and check that same screen and you'll see that it's 1080p.

Also, the menus let you lock the pj into 1080i mode, which might be what's going on. That's sometimes a good idea, if you're getting moire effects or jerky motion from 1080p.

You are absolutely correct and I hang my head low. My model is the AX200U, the 720 P model. I have had the PJ for 3 years and a always get the Panny models confused. When you look at the cover of the owners manual from across the room in dim light, I thought that the U was just a 0 and ended up here.

I will quietly mosey on to the AX 200 forum .
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post #3851 of 3926 Old 01-05-2011, 03:23 AM
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I had a "Replace Lamp" (or Replace Bulb") message show up last night whilst watching a movie. (Inception-what a waste of 3 hours!).
Message disappeared and movie carried on fine.

Today I switch projector on and the Lamp indicator light shines red alongside the normal Standby red light.

I switch on and the projector lamps starts to go but after about 5 seconds just switches itself off and the lamp light shines red again.

I realize now I should have reset the timer last night to get it back to zero.

Now I cannot even get the thing going so I can do this.

Is there any way of getting this going so I can then reset time?

The current brightness has been fine even though it has done nearly 2000 hours and I would like to get more life out of this bulb if possible.

Feels like the same situation as ink cartridges on some printers that say they are empty when there is still ink left.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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post #3852 of 3926 Old 01-06-2011, 08:11 PM
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your behavior is different than mine. I started getting the "Replace Lamp" message the week before Christmas but I've been able to use it with the same bulb since then. I changed to eco mode and high alt. fan but have NOT replaces the bulb. I'm ~100 hours past the replace message and the lamp still works. The lamp light remains red all the time now. I plan on replacing the bulb when it gets to the point of only staying lit for 10 minutes. I read in the replacement instructions that the projector is supposed to give you 10 minutes of light so you can reset the lamp timer.
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post #3853 of 3926 Old 01-23-2011, 12:12 PM
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My AE2000 sometimes will not come on. The light goes from red to green, then back to red after 10-20 seconds (before the projector lamp comes on). Fan is set to high-altitude, lamp time has been re-set from ~1000 hours a couple of months ago -- but this happened before that. So far, I've been able to get it to come on, by either blowing out the filter, removing the lamp and blowing air around, or removing the cover and blowing air around (per this post --I haven't been able to get the cover off the fan itself -- any directions for that?), which makes things fine for a while, but it seems clear to me there's some blockage somewhere that I'm not clearing.

Once it comes on, it always plays fine -- it has never shut off during a movie.

Any ideas/help would be appreciated!

(And if this has been answered already , please just post the link -- I've searched but failed to find it!)

Thanks -- Monte
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post #3854 of 3926 Old 02-14-2011, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no1uno View Post

My AE2000 sometimes will not come on.

So far, I've been able to get it to come on, by either blowing out the filter, removing the lamp and blowing air around, or removing the cover and blowing air around (per

Once it comes on, it always plays fine -- it has never shut off during a movie.

I don't believe you're dealing with any kind of a blockage or the lamp would fire and then go out when the temperature protection circuits kick in. Likewise, with the few hours you noted, nothing is likely to be "blocked". By blowing air, I think you're just jarring something that restores the functionality. Personally, I would try a new bulb first to see if that fixes it (could be a lamp striking problem due to a bad bulb), but I would hold my breath since it sound's more like a fan or lamp power supply problem. Can you verify cooling fan air out both front exhaust ports when it's first fired up (when it fails to light) - failure would trip a safety switch and would prevent the lamp from coming on if one of the fan motors is dying. Replacing a fan motor is somewhat involved and best left for a service center. Likewise the power supply is a service call too.

Have you tried calling Panasonic tech support? They might have some suggestions.
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post #3855 of 3926 Old 04-11-2011, 01:30 PM
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My AE-2000 has been doing something funny for a few months now and I'm hoping that someone else has had this problem.

Basically, while watching something (doesn't really matter what) on occasion the projector will just show static. If I cycle the input selection, it will show the imagine just fine (static goes away). It's almost like it loses the "tune" on the signal and changing the input allows it to grab it again. I'm using HDMI inputs on it and have tried switching between 1, 2 and 3 and nothing changes it. Seems very odd to me.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
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post #3856 of 3926 Old 04-11-2011, 02:30 PM
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It sounds like your HDMI cable may the culprit. Try another cable.
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post #3857 of 3926 Old 06-28-2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimsfield View Post

It sounds like your HDMI cable may the culprit. Try another cable.

Well, I finally got to replacing the HDMI cable, and it hasn't made a difference. The projector worked in this exact same configuration for several years before it started happening.
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post #3858 of 3926 Old 06-28-2011, 03:05 PM
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It does sound like a HDMI handshake issue (static screen). Have you looked at the HDMI jack on your source equipment (going to the projector)? I had a similar issue and couldn't figure it out until I looked in the HDMI jack with a flashlight of my AV Amp and noticed that I had bent one of the contacts on that middle strip and was making intermittent contact - when it touched, the picture was fine, when it wasn't all I got was static (after I tried every HDMI input on the projector!).

Good luck...
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post #3859 of 3926 Old 07-02-2011, 08:57 AM
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Did you try a different HDMI input in addition to that other stuff?? Meaning the one on the projector.
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post #3860 of 3926 Old 11-15-2011, 05:34 PM
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Need some help from u guys and gals. I have a 2000 and the blue polarizer glass panel is shot for sure I'm guessing cause took it apart as it had a yellow mark on the picture. I hope I am looking at the right part looks like window glass. When I removed it for sure it had a round mark on it that looked like what I was seeing on the screen. Cleaned it and the mark disappeared but what I am asking is once that mark is burned in can it appear u cleaned it but no matter what its burned. Put it back in and nothing changed on the picture so guessing that's the case. Think all 3 of the glass panels are bad, is there anyone who knows where the best place to buy those glass panels are sold for the best price. I am gonna take a chance and replace the blue one, if that works will replace the other 2, hate to put to much money in it but might take a chance. Any suggestions would be helpful.
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post #3861 of 3926 Old 11-16-2011, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbes View Post

Need some help from u guys and gals. I have a 2000 and the blue polarizer glass panel is shot for sure I'm guessing cause took it apart as it had a yellow mark on the picture. I hope I am looking at the right part looks like window glass. When I removed it for sure it had a round mark on it that looked like what I was seeing on the screen. Cleaned it and the mark disappeared but what I am asking is once that mark is burned in can it appear u cleaned it but no matter what its burned. Put it back in and nothing changed on the picture so guessing that's the case. Think all 3 of the glass panels are bad, is there anyone who knows where the best place to buy those glass panels are sold for the best price. I am gonna take a chance and replace the blue one, if that works will replace the other 2, hate to put to much money in it but might take a chance. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Hi Brianbes
I would try to change the blue polarizer too.
I have the Service Manual if you want it, send me a PM with your email.
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post #3862 of 3926 Old 11-18-2011, 04:54 PM
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Hey Huecodoc funny coincidence. I have had no problems with my 2000 since I have bought it new and do not overly use it. I tried to watch movie through my ps3 last night and the projector does not recognize any of the hdmi ports...they just blink on the blue screen.

It cant be the ps3 cause when I disconnect monitor hdmi from back of receiver than I can hear the sound from the ps3 that the dvd is loaded and playing. Where did you have to send it? I am past warranty and not looking forward to taking this beast down from the ceiling to have it looked at..really frustrating!!

I even called a couple of Panasonic repair places and they say there has been no issues with HDMI ports on the 2000 and one said "no way" its the ports of the Panni he says its my cable or receiver....I have infrared HDMI secured through rafters that have light indicators at both ends the illuminate that say the signal is good.
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post #3863 of 3926 Old 11-23-2011, 09:57 AM
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I had that happen, turned out my hdmi cable had went bad. It was a beast of a cable too. I would plug some other device into the projector with a seperate cord before assuming it is the projector. Especially with funky infrared stuff inbetween. I wouldn't trust that light at all.
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post #3864 of 3926 Old 11-28-2011, 03:13 PM
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Can anyone tell me their experience of changing to a new lamp?
Does the new lamp seem much brighter.
The reason I ask is because I have just purchased a used PTAE2000 that has 1800 hours on it partly run on eco and part on normal.
It doesn't look as bright (less pop) as my Optoma HD70 that I am replacing it with.
Will I see much difference if I purchase a new lamp.

Thanks
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post #3865 of 3926 Old 11-29-2011, 01:46 PM
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yes, a new lamp is a big difference. The ae2000 is not very bright in best mode, but brighter modes have pretty good color. I opted instead for a higher gain screen. A Vutec Silverstar.
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post #3866 of 3926 Old 02-18-2012, 11:07 AM
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Hey everyone, sorry for digging up such an old post but I didn't want to start a new one!

I recently got a defective AE2000 projector which showed a strange blue-to-yellow gradient from bottom to top. After opening the device I quickly found the cause for this: A burnt polarizing plate in the blue channel.

Click for image, quite big

I already ordered a new one via eBay ($99 for a supposedly original new one) and hope that it will survive shipping to Germany.. The thing I am not sure is if the second plate, the one which is right next to the polarizer, caught any damage, too. According to the Service Manual, that plate is the Phase Difference Plate. While I understand what the polarizing plate does I have absolutely no idea what the phase difference plate is for. There seems to be some residue on the side facing the polarizer but I am not sure if this is just burn residue caused by the polarizing plate or if something boiled on the phase difference plate. Is there any way to check if this plate still is okay? And could anyone tell me what it is for exactly?

Thanks a lot in advance!
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post #3867 of 3926 Old 04-14-2012, 09:45 PM
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Hi all,

I wonder if you could give me some advice about a PT-AE2000U I received today from an eBay seller.

I believe it has a color uniformity issue. When viewing what should be an all-white image, the upper-middle part of the image is roughly white, but that gradually gives way to a very distinct pale blue towards the lower left and lower right corners. I shot the attached image with my Nikon D5100 with white balance set to "Cloudy," 29mm, 1/160 second, F/6.3, ISO 3200. I just resized it for posting--no enhancement of any kind. The image is projected onto my living room wall, which is painted a flat, slightly warm, slightly-off-white ("casual white"), and which has served very well as a screen for my Optoma HD66 for the last couple of years. Color uniformity has always seemed to be perfect with the HD66.

Is the non-uniformity I'm seeing with the PT-AE2000U normal? Could it be caused by an aging or cheap lamp (it has something like 870 hours on it)? Should I ask the seller to let me return the projector?

Thanks for any thoughts,
Andy
LL
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post #3868 of 3926 Old 04-15-2012, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyinsb View Post

Hi all,

I wonder if you could give me some advice about a PT-AE2000U I received today from an eBay seller.

I believe it has a color uniformity issue. When viewing what should be an all-white image, the upper-middle part of the image is roughly white, but that gradually gives way to a very distinct pale blue towards the lower left and lower right corners. I shot the attached image with my Nikon D5100 with white balance set to "Cloudy," 29mm, 1/160 second, F/6.3, ISO 3200. I just resized it for posting--no enhancement of any kind. The image is projected onto my living room wall, which is painted a flat, slightly warm, slightly-off-white ("casual white"), and which has served very well as a screen for my Optoma HD66 for the last couple of years. Color uniformity has always seemed to be perfect with the HD66.

Is the non-uniformity I'm seeing with the PT-AE2000U normal? Could it be caused by an aging or cheap lamp (it has something like 870 hours on it)? Should I ask the seller to let me return the projector?

Thanks for any thoughts,
Andy

no, that is not normal. i doubt it is the lamp. if it was advertised as working perfectly then i would send it back.
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post #3869 of 3926 Old 04-15-2012, 08:14 AM
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Sounds like a burnt Polarizer.
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post #3870 of 3926 Old 04-15-2012, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyinsb View Post

Hi all,
...it has something like 870 hours on it...

Hi Andy
870 hs seem too little for a burnt polarizer, but the meter could have been reseted.
The REAL total hours can be seen in the hidden Service Menu = Extended Option Menu.
To enter the Ext Option:
1. When the projector is power ON, press "POWER" button on the main unit or remote control unit to display "POWER OFF" confirmation screen.
2. Press the right-arrow button to select "CANCEL" in the "POWER OFF" confirmation screen.
3. On the main unit or remote control unit, press the buttons in order of up-arrow, down-arrow, up-arrow, down-arrow and "ENTER".
(When the "ENTER" button is pressed, "EXT OPTION" menu is displayed.)
Select the "Self Check" sub-menu and see the Total Lamp hours.
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